I think they were originally for balancing carbs on four cylinder bikes. We had a diy in the Kawasaki shop where I worked. I just use an old mower fuel tank. I'm tight with money. 😂
You can use water to get that stator off . Pour water in the hole till full. Wrap lots or Teflon tape around the bolt you. Have and hit it with impact. If it is leaking around bolt just put more Teflon tape till it holds. Pulled many snowmobile clutches with this method
We just got our first snow ❄ last night. About 3 inches of snow to clear off the car. This video is a great wrenching video which reminds me of warm summer days ahead 🌞 as I sip my Sunday morning coffee ☕ Cheers from Ottawa, Canada :-)
We just our first one too. Makes it easy to stay in the garage and work on stuff instead of being tempted to go ride instead lol. Cheers from Pittsburgh, PA 🍻
Luckily this one was turning the motor over nicely when I got it probably due to the lower compression. I think cleaning the magnets and the brass armature goes a long way in helping it crank over.
@@Garage2Trail There are no permanent magnets, it's all electromagnets in a Dynastarter. They are very reliable if you polish the armature and install new brushes, Check the regulator and starter relays for proper operation the charging voltage should be at about 13.5 ish with the headlight on.
Thanks Josh! I’m starting to clean things up on it and got a chain and sprockets on the way so I can ride it a bit. Weather is crap here now though so I don’t know when that’s going to happen.
If you ask me there should be a plate holding the seal in. There are even bolt holes for it. These Japanese bikes all look the same inside. I bet they were all in cahoots. Or they were all based on the MZ design. It would be interesting to see inside an MZ.
A friend of mine that was a Yamaha tech in the 70s said that plate was actually the fix from Yamaha when they had the seals pop out on the early bikes. He said they still had problems with the plate fix too so they just put a light coating of Yamaha bond around the seal before pressing it in and never had a problem after that. You are probably right about them all being very similar. I think the Honda MT and Suzuki TS had the right side seal on the inside of the bearing requiring the engine to be split if I’m not mistaken.
Great work a bit of luck only the one crank seal was required , that rotor looks well stuck on the other side crank .😮😮 but a wee run would be the job to clear it all up I think .👍but coming along nicely .Good job .👍
@redtobertshateshandles my buddy is making me a tool that should work if I need to still remove the armature but as of now it’s running pretty good luckily!
@@Garage2Trail I was informed that the Dynastarter rotor body could be removed with the real axle as a press, at least on the 80cc~125 cc horizontal cylinder rotary valve Yamaha trailbikes.
I hear ya…I have new chain and sprockets on the way for the first ride. I learned my lesson with the TS185 that snapped a chain. Luckily it didn’t wipe the case out. Snapped towards the rear end.
The old air cooled Yamaha 2 strokes make that noise in the top end . The gt80 guys say it's the actual fins on the head and cylinder vibrating cooling the cylinder down
I love your channel. !! The front sprocket looked terrible :) I was wondering if the clutch should end with a friction as opposed to a steel. Just looked odd to me. Thank you sir!!
Thank you for tuning in! There was a point that I noticed my plates were in backwards…I may not have edited it out. Good eye if that’s the case! I have new sprockets and chain on the way too.
Isn't there a screw retainer holding the pump cable accessed through that hole in the front of the casing? Check that carb spacer by carefully spraying around it while engine is running, but yes, hanging idle is probably gummed cable which got freed as bike warmed through.
Yup it’s a housing that threads into the top of the side cover right above the pump with a nut to secure it. That’s all working good…it’s just the cable thats in much need of lubrication. I should have done it first but the motion felt good for initial start up. It will be good for the next video when I’m hopefully riding it.
@@tauncfester3022 good call, that was originally gummy but when I removed the carb earlier in the project I was able to lube that part up. I have the throttle removed now and lubing that all up too.
Here's how you take the dyno ff with short bolt. Pack the hole with a bunch of soft bread. Use punch to push in and pack till full. Now screw in bolt. Hydraulic pressure will popi5 right off , ta da !!
That’s an excellent idea! Thanks for sharing! Time will tell if I’ll need to replace that seal. I hope to get some ride time on it to make sure it holds. Def will keep that in mind!
I didn’t find the actual tool and ended up not even needing to remove the armature. I will try to find the thread size for you though. I can’t recall what it is.
@felipeserrano5337 ok cool you got it then…I know Yamaha made one for dealership mechanics back in the day but most people have been making them from what I’ve gathered. Glad you got it off!
I know the 3.00-18 up front is pretty wide and fill up that front low fender pretty good so I don’t know how much bigger you can go. Out back you could probably go a bit wider than the 3.25 tho. I haven’t tried fitting any other tires yet though.
No not inherently if the mixture is correct for the engine's needs. A lot of why this engine bumbles and stutters is that it's a piston port scavenge timed 2 cycle, in comparison rotary valve and reed box engines transition much more cleanly and reliably from idle to low and middle speed because they aren't leaking part of their intake charge out their carb throat at low RPM.
@@Garage2Trail If the pipe is coked severely, no amount of "blowing up and down the road" is going to get it hot enough, get the baffle out and look inside. You may have to scrape and run a bunch of paint thinner and nuts inside to clean it all out.
man i gotta love the iv bag for the fuel the doctor is in the shop 🎉🎉🎉🎉😂😂😂
I think they were originally for balancing carbs on four cylinder bikes.
We had a diy in the Kawasaki shop where I worked.
I just use an old mower fuel tank. I'm tight with money. 😂
You can use water to get that stator off . Pour water in the hole till full. Wrap lots or Teflon tape around the bolt you. Have and hit it with impact. If it is leaking around bolt just put more Teflon tape till it holds. Pulled many snowmobile clutches with this method
That’s an awesome idea, thank you for sharing! I’ll have to keep that in mind next time.
Yes works better then a puller.
We just got our first snow ❄ last night. About 3 inches of snow to clear off the car. This video is a great wrenching video which reminds me of warm summer days ahead 🌞 as I sip my Sunday morning coffee ☕ Cheers from Ottawa, Canada :-)
We just our first one too. Makes it easy to stay in the garage and work on stuff instead of being tempted to go ride instead lol. Cheers from Pittsburgh, PA 🍻
I like your video brings back old memories
Thank you!
The oil in the gear case of two strokes doesn't get the combustion contamination of 4 strokes, so the oil is generally much cleaner.
Yeah, I think I was most satisfied to not see any water contamination. I’ve had a couple that drained looking like milkshakes in the past lol
finally! someone gets the electric start working. This will reallly help me with my 2 '75 DT125's
Luckily this one was turning the motor over nicely when I got it probably due to the lower compression. I think cleaning the magnets and the brass armature goes a long way in helping it crank over.
@@Garage2Trail There are no permanent magnets, it's all electromagnets in a Dynastarter. They are very reliable if you polish the armature and install new brushes, Check the regulator and starter relays for proper operation the charging voltage should be at about 13.5 ish with the headlight on.
That seems to be running nicely good work 👍🏻 excited to see you do more on it :)
Thanks Josh! I’m starting to clean things up on it and got a chain and sprockets on the way so I can ride it a bit. Weather is crap here now though so I don’t know when that’s going to happen.
Same we’re getting wet snow here right now and then its supposed to get down to single digits for the highs end of next week.
If you ask me there should be a plate holding the seal in. There are even bolt holes for it. These Japanese bikes all look the same inside. I bet they were all in cahoots. Or they were all based on the MZ design. It would be interesting to see inside an MZ.
A friend of mine that was a Yamaha tech in the 70s said that plate was actually the fix from Yamaha when they had the seals pop out on the early bikes. He said they still had problems with the plate fix too so they just put a light coating of Yamaha bond around the seal before pressing it in and never had a problem after that. You are probably right about them all being very similar. I think the Honda MT and Suzuki TS had the right side seal on the inside of the bearing requiring the engine to be split if I’m not mistaken.
Great work a bit of luck only the one crank seal was required , that rotor looks well stuck on the other side crank .😮😮 but a wee run would be the job to clear it all up I think .👍but coming along nicely .Good job .👍
👍 I have a new chain and sprockets on the way. Hope to be riding it soon!
No. On a fifty year old bike both seals need doing. It won't run right.
@redtobertshateshandles my buddy is making me a tool that should work if I need to still remove the armature but as of now it’s running pretty good luckily!
@@Garage2Trail I was informed that the Dynastarter rotor body could be removed with the real axle as a press, at least on the 80cc~125 cc horizontal cylinder rotary valve Yamaha trailbikes.
@24 minutes, Ive never seen a more worn sprocket that was still working.
I hear ya…I have new chain and sprockets on the way for the first ride. I learned my lesson with the TS185 that snapped a chain. Luckily it didn’t wipe the case out. Snapped towards the rear end.
good work
Thanks Jeff!
The old air cooled Yamaha 2 strokes make that noise in the top end . The gt80 guys say it's the actual fins on the head and cylinder vibrating cooling the cylinder down
Ahh interesting! 🤔 👍
yeah ive got an old mx80 and thought my rings were toast 💀
That's why fins have rubber plugs or bits of hose squished in.
another great video. I assume you're good friends with your neighbors....or they're deaf 😅
Thanks! Yeah they don’t mind…plus their windows are all closed up now anyways lol
I love your channel. !! The front sprocket looked terrible :) I was wondering if the clutch should end with a friction as opposed to a steel. Just looked odd to me. Thank you sir!!
Thank you for tuning in! There was a point that I noticed my plates were in backwards…I may not have edited it out. Good eye if that’s the case! I have new sprockets and chain on the way too.
Isn't there a screw retainer holding the pump cable accessed through that hole in the front of the casing?
Check that carb spacer by carefully spraying around it while engine is running, but yes, hanging idle is probably gummed cable which got freed as bike warmed through.
Yup it’s a housing that threads into the top of the side cover right above the pump with a nut to secure it. That’s all working good…it’s just the cable thats in much need of lubrication. I should have done it first but the motion felt good for initial start up. It will be good for the next video when I’m hopefully riding it.
@@Garage2Trail pay particular attention to the cable splitter from the throttle cable to the injection oil volume cable it gets gummed up.
@@tauncfester3022 good call, that was originally gummy but when I removed the carb earlier in the project I was able to lube that part up. I have the throttle removed now and lubing that all up too.
Gotta get your cables adjusted first.
For sure. Didn’t even get to lube them up to that point.
What is the compression now? Thanks for sharing!
I neglected to put that in the video…sorry! If I recall it was around 110 but my gauge is cheap and always seems to read low.
Here's how you take the dyno ff with short bolt. Pack the hole with a bunch of soft bread. Use punch to push in and pack till full. Now screw in bolt. Hydraulic pressure will popi5 right off , ta da !!
That’s an excellent idea! Thanks for sharing! Time will tell if I’ll need to replace that seal. I hope to get some ride time on it to make sure it holds. Def will keep that in mind!
What is that sweet old car in the driveway?
1973 Plymouth Roadrunner
Did you find the tool to take the dyno off? What’s the thread size on that bolt?
I didn’t find the actual tool and ended up not even needing to remove the armature. I will try to find the thread size for you though. I can’t recall what it is.
I’m working on a 1970 at1. There’s no tool for it had to make my own. Thread size is M10-1.25 fine thread
@felipeserrano5337 ok cool you got it then…I know Yamaha made one for dealership mechanics back in the day but most people have been making them from what I’ve gathered. Glad you got it off!
What’s the biggest tires that will fit this little bike. I think stock is 3.00-18 front and 3.25-18 rear
I know the 3.00-18 up front is pretty wide and fill up that front low fender pretty good so I don’t know how much bigger you can go. Out back you could probably go a bit wider than the 3.25 tho. I haven’t tried fitting any other tires yet though.
Two strokes inherently run rich at idle because they do what called 'four stroking' the only true way to 'clear a pipe' is under load
Once I get the new chain and sprockets on I’ll be blowing up and down the road to get that pipe hot!
No not inherently if the mixture is correct for the engine's needs. A lot of why this engine bumbles and stutters is that it's a piston port scavenge timed 2 cycle, in comparison rotary valve and reed box engines transition much more cleanly and reliably from idle to low and middle speed because they aren't leaking part of their intake charge out their carb throat at low RPM.
@@Garage2Trail If the pipe is coked severely, no amount of "blowing up and down the road" is going to get it hot enough, get the baffle out and look inside. You may have to scrape and run a bunch of paint thinner and nuts inside to clean it all out.