Hello there, Travis Noonan... Dude, you had helped me BIG time with this video. I decided to come back here and make this comment to just say THANK YOU! I know I had to watch your videos, maybe around seven times, just to be 100% ready. Yesterday, Saturday March 2, 2019 around 12:00pm my order for this MotoFab kit arrived, and by 1 o'clock I was already working in my garage. No big lift machine, just my jack and some jack standing, laying under the truck some times and started installing this kit on my 2012 Ford F150 2WD... By 5 pm it was all done... Truck looks beautiful and ready for new wheels and tires, which is the next step. I may add some picture in your website.
I installed the Motofab 3"/2" on the driver side of my sons 2005, 4WD, F-150, after installed, the angles on the ball joints were cringe worthy, when I let the jack down supporting the knuckle the upper control arm came to rest against the strut. I couldn't leave it, I took the whole thing apart and uninstalled the strut spacer. Highly recommend you do not use the 3" spacer without modification to the rest of the suspension components. I'm ordering upper control arms designed for 3" lifts, hopefully that will allow me to use this lift without rubbing and skewing the other components.
2 things I found easier when doing mine was drop the sway bar off the frame instead of the links just bolts no holding anything and cleaning threads with a wire brush plus lubrication on the nuts for all the ball joints that could spin, they gave me no problems
instead of rotating 180* and having to bend bottom mounting bolts in opposite direction, can you just swap struts from the other side, i feel like that would work.
I put a 2.5" on my 14 and it made a popping sound when I was in 4wd. Sounded like the the CVs were binding up and when I switched a a 2in it went away. How are y'all getting away with a 3"
I have a question . This 3"on the front and2"on the back will be good for fitting a 35 x12.50 x20 on a 2005 F150 . Extended cab ??? Or I need something else???
Hey, have you ever run into an issue where you do the install and then a couple days later the IWE actuator is bad? Had that happen on my passenger side and just wondering if we missed something.
Most likely this only a 2 wheel drive truck, vacuum tool only needed for 4×4 trucks for the 4×4 actuator on front axle/ cv joint in order to remove pressure and allow for removal of hub
@@WheelzUp410Are/were you high while watching this video? Lol, the darn truck literally has a 4x4 sticker on it! Btw I was thinking the exact same thing as @willhart7861. In another video Sara uses a vacuum pump to pull vacuum, though she does mention in her video that such a step (pulling vacuum to remove the knuckle from the axle) isn’t necessary but would make installing and removing the strut tower easier. Either way I’m watching Sara’s video and this one before installing my Rough Country Vertex coilovers and piggy backs on my ‘13 FX4 that way I know which steps each take that are similar.
Instructions say (copy & paste): "Lower the rear axle and insert the new rear lift block on top of the stock rear lift block making sure that the smaller side of the taper is facing the front of the truck. ** Please note** You may have to remove the stock rear block to receive desired lift amount."
So how tall are the factory blocks? I installed a 3 inch level and I’m gonna but some blocks in the rear because the front sits about half an inch higher than the back.
this is the problem with lift videos. you say your installing a 2 inch rear lift but are you actually getting 2 extra inches of height when removing the stock block?
Really depends on the individual lift! Some kits are meant to be installed on top of the existing lift block. Others are made to replace the existing lift block. -Zach
I watched this video in stunned disbelief... This clown removed 2" lift blocks and replaced them with 2" lift blocks then butchered the longer u bolts meant for the combined stack! What is even more stunning is the imbeciles going back years who leave glowing comments! You are the only person besides myself with the intelligence and confidence to comment correctly! The AT dudes answer was beyond lame!
@@americantrucks Thank you Justin what issues? It will affect chassis and bushings? or something else? without changing control arms best level is 2.5 inch?
I have a 2015 Chevy 1500 with this kit and I run 33” Nitto ridge grapplers. I run method nv rims 17”x8.5” 0 offset with no rubbing or trimming. Even at full lock I don’t rub. You may need to trim for negative offset. But even with no offset my tires poke out about an inch and a half.
AmericanTrucks Ford everything I see says I need a 5.50” backspacing for UCAs to work, I have a 3” front 2” rear level on Fuel wheels with a +1 offset, would that clear the UCAs to fix the angle? Thanks
Will this fit on a 2004 f-150 heritage. I purchased this to soon and didnt check my truck before I bought it. And I can’t find anything about it not fitting but I also can’t find info about it fitting.
The grille on that truck i can't seem to find on the website. Do the 15-17 or whatever year model grilles like that fit the 09-14? I keep seeing these grilles on these trucks and i want one!
My truck is a 2012 but they made it into a 2016 front. I have that grill, but I don’t think it is specific to the 2016 front as I had to make some changes for it to loog good on the truck. Send me your email so I can send you a picture of the truck
I was unable to completely remove my Tie rod end link, also was unable to undo it. My tie rod is loosened, I don't know how to tight the bolt. Can anyone help?
So you used the stock upper control arms.... Any alignment issues? I have this product and are looking to install on my 2005 Ford f150. Right now I have the 2" but will be swapping out to the 3" as shown in the video.
I wouldn’t do it. Go with a lift. Anything over a 2 inch level will destroy your C/Vs on a 4x4. The C/V angles are just too steep over 2 inches. Unless you have 2wd, If you do then go for it.
Well I got it done with a 3" level block but now my upper control arms are maxed out to the limit. Physically touching the coil spring with the top of the knuckle and the inner bottom control arm. Needless to say it makes a knocking noise when I go over bumps. I can live with that but is it safe?
Alex Herrera Id recommend replacing the upper control arms with some uniball ones that correct the angles and prevent them from making contact with the coil spring. Camburg makes some good ones. If you keep running it as is eventually it will break the coil spring.
@@TheUnlimited001 thanks for the info. I was going with this leveling kit based on his recommendation 2 minutes in the video saying 3" inches works with factory suspension. With having to buy new upper control arms that are uniball might as well have went with a suspension lift for that price. Or a body lift. Well this sucks. Hey thanks again for the education on the upper arms @TheUnlimited001
Shop This MotoFab 3" Front/2" Rear Leveling Kit: amtrucks.at/2SwALou
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For a 2014 do I need new upper 4x4 control arms for this set @AmericanTrucks Ford ?
Any binding issues with this kit
Hello there, Travis Noonan... Dude, you had helped me BIG time with this video. I decided to come back here and make this comment to just say THANK YOU!
I know I had to watch your videos, maybe around seven times, just to be 100% ready. Yesterday, Saturday March 2, 2019 around 12:00pm my order for this MotoFab kit arrived, and by 1 o'clock I was already working in my garage. No big lift machine, just my jack and some jack standing, laying under the truck some times and started installing this kit on my 2012 Ford F150 2WD... By 5 pm it was all done... Truck looks beautiful and ready for new wheels and tires, which is the next step. I may add some picture in your website.
I installed the Motofab 3"/2" on the driver side of my sons 2005, 4WD, F-150, after installed, the angles on the ball joints were cringe worthy, when I let the jack down supporting the knuckle the upper control arm came to rest against the strut. I couldn't leave it, I took the whole thing apart and uninstalled the strut spacer. Highly recommend you do not use the 3" spacer without modification to the rest of the suspension components. I'm ordering upper control arms designed for 3" lifts, hopefully that will allow me to use this lift without rubbing and skewing the other components.
2 things I found easier when doing mine was drop the sway bar off the frame instead of the links just bolts no holding anything and cleaning threads with a wire brush plus lubrication on the nuts for all the ball joints that could spin, they gave me no problems
If I tried this I’d end up with 87 extra parts, several busted knuckles and a cuss jar with about $800 bucks in it.
Lol
It can be placed 3 inches in front. or recommends 2.5 in front. spencer
Did this with my buddy. Took us 6 hours and a pizza break to get it done.
instead of rotating 180* and having to bend bottom mounting bolts in opposite direction, can you just swap struts from the other side, i feel like that would work.
excellent video .! I only have one doubt that does not affect the transmission shaft since the bodywork would be higher.?
Exellent instruction video, thank you very much !
Thank you for watching! -Zach
I put a 2.5" on my 14 and it made a popping sound when I was in 4wd. Sounded like the the CVs were binding up and when I switched a a 2in it went away. How are y'all getting away with a 3"
NavaHo TV going over 2” is stupid
Not really just need a longer upper control arm and it's all good to go and a 3 inch lift shocks in the rear
I have a question . This 3"on the front and2"on the back will be good for fitting a 35 x12.50 x20 on a 2005 F150 . Extended cab ??? Or I need something else???
With correct backspacing and off set on your wheels yes.
Hey, have you ever run into an issue where you do the install and then a couple days later the IWE actuator is bad? Had that happen on my passenger side and just wondering if we missed something.
In your other videos you use a vacuum tool when you remove the axle. Why wasn't it used in this one?
Most likely this only a 2 wheel drive truck, vacuum tool only needed for 4×4 trucks for the 4×4 actuator on front axle/ cv joint in order to remove pressure and allow for removal of hub
@@WheelzUp410Are/were you high while watching this video? Lol, the darn truck literally has a 4x4 sticker on it! Btw I was thinking the exact same thing as @willhart7861. In another video Sara uses a vacuum pump to pull vacuum, though she does mention in her video that such a step (pulling vacuum to remove the knuckle from the axle) isn’t necessary but would make installing and removing the strut tower easier. Either way I’m watching Sara’s video and this one before installing my Rough Country Vertex coilovers and piggy backs on my ‘13 FX4 that way I know which steps each take that are similar.
are you torquing the u bolts to factory specs?
You said you were unbolting the tie rod end when you were unbolting the swaybar end link.
Dude Thank God I wasn't the only one that saw that. He destroyed that link. Your Opposed to hold the top and unscrew the Nut....
What if it already has a leveling kit on it ? What do you buy for the lift
Awesome video!
Thanks for watching! -Zach
Reason why your U bolts are so long is because directions say put new block on top of old block the tighten them down.
Lmao for real I started doing it and realized this guy just replaced the block😂
alot of states its illegal to stack blocks for saftey reasons. the u bols are long so they can have a one size fits all from 1in block to 6in block
Instructions say (copy & paste): "Lower the rear axle and insert the new rear lift block on top of the stock rear lift block making sure that the smaller side of the taper is facing the front of the truck. ** Please note** You may have to remove the stock rear block to receive desired lift amount."
This had me confused as well. I just bought this kit a read the instructions. I'm gonna stack em. Send it.
I'm calling BS on that claim... @@750nicko
I have stock 32's and still almost 4 inches of room. Shouldn't 35's be easy with no problems?
So how tall are the factory blocks? I installed a 3 inch level and I’m gonna but some blocks in the rear because the front sits about half an inch higher than the back.
It can fit on F150 2019 ??
this is the problem with lift videos. you say your installing a 2 inch rear lift but are you actually getting 2 extra inches of height when removing the stock block?
No this mechanic was either a comedian or an idiot.
so my strut spacer hole did not line up with the studs on the strut did i just get a bad part?
Can i please have a list of torque values?
I went to install this in my 2011 f150 and it was next to impossible and the truck components didnt match
What wheels are those on the 35's?
At 17:30, did you forget to put the brake pads when installing the calipers?
Will this kit fit my 07 f-150 2wd
this kit would work with 24x14 rims with 33 ”wheel on 2006 F150 lariat 4 door.?
On the rear, aren't you supposed to add the new blocks to the old blocks to get that height? Or am I wrong? Don't cut those u bolts just yet
Really depends on the individual lift! Some kits are meant to be installed on top of the existing lift block. Others are made to replace the existing lift block. -Zach
I watched this video in stunned disbelief... This clown removed 2" lift blocks and replaced them with 2" lift blocks then butchered the longer u bolts meant for the combined stack! What is even more stunning is the imbeciles going back years who leave glowing comments! You are the only person besides myself with the intelligence and confidence to comment correctly! The AT dudes answer was beyond lame!
can I level 3inch without replacing upper control arms on 2015 f150?
You could but you might run into some interference issues, therefore I wouldn't advise it. -Justin
@@americantrucks Thank you Justin
what issues? It will affect chassis and bushings? or something else?
without changing control arms best level is 2.5 inch?
So, for the 33" tire, which what is the maximum negative off set you would advise then...?
I have a 2015 Chevy 1500 with this kit and I run 33” Nitto ridge grapplers. I run method nv rims 17”x8.5” 0 offset with no rubbing or trimming. Even at full lock I don’t rub. You may need to trim for negative offset. But even with no offset my tires poke out about an inch and a half.
Anyone installed this on a 2wd? The site says it’s only for 4wd. Any reason it wouldn’t work on a 2wd?
It should be the same process
Any recommendations for the extreme upper control arm angles?
An aftermarket tubular upper is certainly recommended for 2.5" levels and above. -Justin
AmericanTrucks Ford everything I see says I need a 5.50” backspacing for UCAs to work, I have a 3” front 2” rear level on Fuel wheels with a +1 offset, would that clear the UCAs to fix the angle? Thanks
@@adammichael6229Did they fit?
Will this fit on a 2004 f-150 heritage. I purchased this to soon and didnt check my truck before I bought it. And I can’t find anything about it not fitting but I also can’t find info about it fitting.
My struts look completely different.
The grille on that truck i can't seem to find on the website. Do the 15-17 or whatever year model grilles like that fit the 09-14? I keep seeing these grilles on these trucks and i want one!
What year is your truck? That specific grill only fits 09-14 F150s
jake rey i hate people like u. ask a question and don’t respond to the comments. Go fuck urself I hope u don’t get the grill u want u piece of shit
My truck is a 2012 but they made it into a 2016 front. I have that grill, but I don’t think it is specific to the 2016 front as I had to make some changes for it to loog good on the truck. Send me your email so I can send you a picture of the truck
my 13 f150 lower control arm doesnt look like that, its a fx4
I was unable to completely remove my Tie rod end link, also was unable to undo it. My tie rod is loosened, I don't know how to tight the bolt. Can anyone help?
Did you ever find a solution?
No, he's still riding the MTA!@@cstrobes2
So you used the stock upper control arms.... Any alignment issues? I have this product and are looking to install on my 2005 Ford f150. Right now I have the 2" but will be swapping out to the 3" as shown in the video.
I wouldn’t do it. Go with a lift. Anything over a 2 inch level will destroy your C/Vs on a 4x4. The C/V angles are just too steep over 2 inches. Unless you have 2wd, If you do then go for it.
TheUnlimited001 I got 2 inch leves at front so far no problems 2wd 👍
Well I got it done with a 3" level block but now my upper control arms are maxed out to the limit. Physically touching the coil spring with the top of the knuckle and the inner bottom control arm. Needless to say it makes a knocking noise when I go over bumps. I can live with that but is it safe?
Alex Herrera Id recommend replacing the upper control arms with some uniball ones that correct the angles and prevent them from making contact with the coil spring. Camburg makes some good ones. If you keep running it as is eventually it will break the coil spring.
@@TheUnlimited001 thanks for the info. I was going with this leveling kit based on his recommendation 2 minutes in the video saying 3" inches works with factory suspension. With having to buy new upper control arms that are uniball might as well have went with a suspension lift for that price. Or a body lift. Well this sucks. Hey thanks again for the education on the upper arms @TheUnlimited001
Did anyone else notice those rotors 😳
Sorry dude. At 2.5 you already begain to smash the upper control arm bushings. I.R.L. probably nothing more than 2.5in
This guys way of doing things concerns me, very unprofessional.
Imbecile is more like it... It's hilarious if you consider this abomination has been up many years!
This is such a terrible idea. Unless you want to rebuild your front end every 15k miles I’d stay away from this.
Do you have to do a leveling kit for 33s on a xlt 4x4? 6.5 bed?
depends on the wheel size and offset