You can access the set screw by inserting the bar and pressing to the body (like a dive bomb) and then while you hold it in that position, you can access the set screw from the back without taking anything apart.
I heard someone say you needed to remove it to adjust that set screw, I thought the same thing as you, just push the whammie bar down to expose that screw.
About 3-4 years ago I stumbled across this video while determining which bridge to use on a new build I was considering at that time. Several years and as many builds later, and I have installed Wilkinson's on every one. Mostly this VSVG but also the two post that uses the same saddles. I was rarely happy with other trems that used solid saddles, and was not sure why until my first VSVG. The bent steel saddle, like the original Fenders, really contribute to the "twang" I like, and the way every thing locks down when you have the height and intonation set up makes this a very accurate Trem. This Trem, a correctly cut bone nut, with lube, and a set of gotoh locking tuners will keep me happy and in tune.
Good succinct video, just put a VSVG on my Warmoth Strat. My first tremolo, took a while to set it up from scratch, but the process was fun and instructive. I would have forgotten to solder a ground wire if you hadn't mentioned it. I only needed the 3 supplied springs to set it up as a decked trem as well. I've seen many people say you need 4 or 5. Of course, it depends on how tight or loose you the spring action. I don't have that feel yet, since it's my first time tremming. 3 seems just fine.
It is an amazing amazing amazing tremolo bridge .. combine it with sperzel tuners and a bone or graphite nut and you'll never ever have tuning troubles..
Do you have it set to float, if so, how's the tuning return? I dont dive bomb per se but do like a good amount of pull back (around 1 whole step)and "cat purring" effect on trems, like Jeff Beck.
I opened the holes in the tremolo as they only needed a little bit of work. If they would have needed more opening I probably would have doweled and re drilled the holes in the body.
Nice set up ! Question,.. When you had to "open up" the holes to match screw pattern, did you change the holes on the trem, or on the body? My luthier had suggested gluing in dowels to five holes and then re drilling them
It's probably a bit windmilley to post on threads this old, but hey - I just found it... :>) One little workflow suggestion - when you have all this stuff out to work on, there's a VERY high likelihood your electric drill is nearby? When it pops up in my orbit, I usually drill a HOLE right through the tremolo-spring claw. Just a little something, whatever will let you put a 6-32 bolt and nut on there. !/2", 3/8" long... size isn't critical. It just makes the soldering of the ground wire much easier when you have a solid mechanical join too. In fact you probably wouldn't even need the SOLDER, if you were to screw the bolt down on the wire. But the soldering gun's right there too, right? (And I do mean GUN - when I get around delicate circuit boards and the like I use a sissy 40w pencil-type thing, but on at least half the stuff you have to solder, a nice big 140w GUN will blow right through those parts.)
You have that tremolo action set pretty tight, I'm guessing that you could have put an extra couple of springs in the back of the original trem or some string saver saddles would have worked wonders. Anyways, How does the trem react with some dive bomb action?
I honestly have not noticed a difference in tone from the original tremolo. the biggest differences seem to be better intonation control and more sustain as far as I can tell.
Hey man does the arm screw in? or is it pop in? i have a favorite arm that i use and it screws in and i have to get a replacement bridge, this seems to be right since im replacing my modern neck with a vintage '62 radius/nut width neck, but most "Vintage" replacement bridges on the higher end of quality seem to only offer pop in arm holes, was just wondering if thats the case with this one, thank you!
Hi. Did you try to do bends and dive bombs? Does the guitar stay in tune? I have couple guitars with vintage tremolo and they both stay in tune if: 1) I only do dive bombs and don't do bends 2) I only do bends but don't do dive bombs
I don;t think it is tight at all, not nearly as tight as the original was anyway. It does fine with what dive bombing I do which isn;t much but it does hold tune through it.
You can access the set screw by inserting the bar and pressing to the body (like a dive bomb) and then while you hold it in that position, you can access the set screw from the back without taking anything apart.
You can access the set screw by inserting the bar and pressing to the body (like a dive bomb) and then while you hold it in that position, you can access the set screw from the back without taking anything apart.
I heard someone say you needed to remove it to adjust that set screw, I thought the same thing as you, just push the whammie bar down to expose that screw.
About 3-4 years ago I stumbled across this video while determining which bridge to use on a new build I was considering at that time.
Several years and as many builds later, and I have installed Wilkinson's on every one. Mostly this VSVG but also the two post that uses the same saddles. I was rarely happy with other trems that used solid saddles, and was not sure why until my first VSVG. The bent steel saddle, like the original Fenders, really contribute to the "twang" I like, and the way every thing locks down when you have the height and intonation set up makes this a very accurate Trem. This Trem, a correctly cut bone nut, with lube, and a set of gotoh locking tuners will keep me happy and in tune.
I have narrow spaced guitar 2 1/16, will the string spacing work and do I need to mod the guitar to fit in my guitar?
Good succinct video, just put a VSVG on my Warmoth Strat. My first tremolo, took a while to set it up from scratch, but the process was fun and instructive. I would have forgotten to solder a ground wire if you hadn't mentioned it. I only needed the 3 supplied springs to set it up as a decked trem as well. I've seen many people say you need 4 or 5. Of course, it depends on how tight or loose you the spring action. I don't have that feel yet, since it's my first time tremming. 3 seems just fine.
There goes another love song, right? Outstanding record. I love to Huey's purple hardtail
This one is and adjustable press fit. the full review looks at this feature.
It is an amazing amazing amazing tremolo bridge .. combine it with sperzel tuners and a bone or graphite nut and you'll never ever have tuning troubles..
Is this a Mexican stratocaster? Can I find out the model? I ordered the same one for myself and I'm worried that it won't fit.
Do you have it set to float, if so, how's the tuning return? I dont dive bomb per se but do like a good amount of pull back (around 1 whole step)and "cat purring" effect on trems, like Jeff Beck.
I opened the holes in the tremolo as they only needed a little bit of work. If they would have needed more opening I probably would have doweled and re drilled the holes in the body.
Nice set up ! Question,.. When you had to "open up" the holes to match screw pattern, did you change the holes on the trem, or on the body? My luthier had suggested gluing in dowels to five holes and then re drilling them
It's probably a bit windmilley to post on threads this old, but hey - I just found it... :>) One little workflow suggestion - when you have all this stuff out to work on, there's a VERY high likelihood your electric drill is nearby? When it pops up in my orbit, I usually drill a HOLE right through the tremolo-spring claw. Just a little something, whatever will let you put a 6-32 bolt and nut on there. !/2", 3/8" long... size isn't critical. It just makes the soldering of the ground wire much easier when you have a solid mechanical join too. In fact you probably wouldn't even need the SOLDER, if you were to screw the bolt down on the wire. But the soldering gun's right there too, right? (And I do mean GUN - when I get around delicate circuit boards and the like I use a sissy 40w pencil-type thing, but on at least half the stuff you have to solder, a nice big 140w GUN will blow right through those parts.)
You have that tremolo action set pretty tight, I'm guessing that you could have put an extra couple of springs in the back of the original trem or some string saver saddles would have worked wonders. Anyways, How does the trem react with some dive bomb action?
There is no TS in the description for this one so I assume it is zinc. whatever it is, it works great!
very informative vid. thanks for posting
I honestly have not noticed a difference in tone from the original tremolo. the biggest differences seem to be better intonation control and more sustain as far as I can tell.
Hey man does the arm screw in? or is it pop in? i have a favorite arm that i use and it screws in and i have to get a replacement bridge, this seems to be right since im replacing my modern neck with a vintage '62 radius/nut width neck, but most "Vintage" replacement bridges on the higher end of quality seem to only offer pop in arm holes, was just wondering if thats the case with this one, thank you!
why do you sound like peter griffin, i LOVE it
lol yea here in tn they do. im kinda old school any way
hi there, a quick question
did you find that this tremolo acoustically tends more to the trebley side than the vintage trem you had there before?
Hi. Did you try to do bends and dive bombs? Does the guitar stay in tune? I have couple guitars with vintage tremolo and they both stay in tune if:
1) I only do dive bombs and don't do bends
2) I only do bends but don't do dive bombs
Did you Daaaable check the intonation?
lol
Nice, what strat made is this?
Chicago accent?
Are you in Wisconsin bro?
I don;t think it is tight at all, not nearly as tight as the original was anyway. It does fine with what dive bombing I do which isn;t much but it does hold tune through it.
Nope, North Carolina.
People still say "bro"?
Dems' fightin' words! Packerland!!
Actually, da Bears are a good team but we have to hate on them twice a year usually....
Not being able at get to the set-screw is a bad design. a pro would wear the bushing out in no time.
You can access the set screw by inserting the bar and pressing to the body (like a dive bomb) and then while you hold it in that position, you can access the set screw from the back without taking anything apart.
... And thats how you install the wrong bridge in the wrong guitar!
wat
olifilipe Why?
And that's how you describe something the wrong way