Rick Owens and Immortality - Spring Summer 2023 Paris Fashion Week
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- Опубликовано: 27 ноя 2022
- The jumbo lace king has done it again in his most recent show taking notes from Egypt and permanence. Outside of Rick Owens’s huge collaboration with Aesop and Moncler, Rick seems to be talking more candidly about his perspective on time lately, and how it’s been shaped by his wife Michèle Lamy and how his daughter has made him a grandfather. The bench mark for a lasting legacy is difficult for anyone to wrap their heads around, but Rick tries to do his best. I had the privilege of being able to see this show in person at this past Paris Fashion Week. This creative director and fashion designer is still dedicated to putting out compelling work whose impact will leave a lasting legacy.
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by far my favorite runway analysis from you bliss. mentioning how the movies, music, and books rick's dad forced onto him and him becoming a grandfather brought me nearly to tears. and now I have a newfound interest in ripstop fabric lol. ty!
I know a lot of people aren't really into the addition of colour into Rick's collections, but I genuinely think this and the recent collections have been Rick's best work. There's one thing being a designer that has a distinct style, then there's another level of being so forward thinking that you can take your own previous designs and reference them in a completely new way.
You are pure bliss, Bliss.
I stand on this
hes an abusor
This was such a beutifully put together analysis, I feel like I always learn lots and get inspired when I watch your videos, so I'm really grateful they're out there. Also, the corpse shoulders with the combination of transluscent (dried skin) leather made me think of mummification since it's essentially an attempt at immortalizing a human body, tying back to Egypt and permanence
Rick Owens seems to keep a facination & theme around Momento Mori. He has the skulls to remind him of this, the sarcophagus, durable materials, & the army blankets he uses as rugs in his home for protection. He seems to draw from Stoic Philosophy as well as his fascination with Egyptian aesthetic.
Your production is of the highest order and I appreciate your continuous devotion to high quality and academic level (and beyond) informative and inspirational standards. In short, thank you for your channel, effort, mind, and energy.
Wow, thank you! 💫💫
gawd this was so good. im such an RO girl & this just made my day.
thank you guys. xx
This is probably one of my favourite videos, especially since it's a Rick Owens show. The permanence and recycling of materials (lives, spirits, etc.) is a great thing that Rick has been dealing with in some way shape or form, but also being tethered to reality with his relationship with his strict dad. I can totally relate to this relationship, being gay, I'm not the closest with my parents anymore - it's just funny that even though you repel from each other, you still rub off or influence each other in the long run.
Feeling like an outsider and totes Rick Owens stan has always shaped how I have felt about myself in the world. For the last 20 years or so that Rick has existed, I have found that the armor that you put on in his pieces, is truly what shields us from the asshole homophobes in the world...and also very much of a signifier that we are NOT LIKE OTHERS around us. LOL, It's actually more like a HUGE beaming flare that makes us stand out while in the public.
I'll have to do some more research on leather processing. I found the fruit roll-up statement just so cute. LOL, I am not sure if this is correct, but I thought I read somewhere that Ecco the very outdoorsy shoe company has a history of working this process of the leathers and there might have been some sort of partnership??? I wonder if you read anything about that.
The wonderful blossoming of Rick's world has been one that has been great to be a part of all these years. I really do feel empowered when I wear my Kiss boots or flight suits in public, I know people either hate me or may covet what I'm wearing, or probably don't understand LOL... but I'm A-OK with that.
Thanks for a kick-ass video Bliss, I really connected with this one. xoxo D
"armor that you put on in his pieces, is truly what shields us from the asshole homophobes in the world...and also very much of a signifier that we are NOT LIKE OTHERS around us. LOL, It's actually more like a HUGE beaming flare that makes us stand out while in the public".......Really now??? smh
Admire the way you articulate your words and deliver the concepts. You are a literal artist. All the way from Egypt, keep it up Bliss x
Thank you! Will do! 💫💫
This was beautiful. Not only was this an empathic biography and art analysis, but also a mesmerizing philosophical contemplation. There is so much said in fashion that words alone are not enough. Thank you very much for this video. Also, you read beautifully.
Your analysis is beautiful. And all the points fit… it was a mortuary practice of the ancient Egyptians to mummify the corpse then open the mouth to release the bird shaped ka (soul)… so absolutely spot on.
Your comparison between the parenthesis-like shoulder pads and the idea of there being non-belonging ,"parenthetical" people got me gasping screeching rolling on the ground
THIS COLLECTION REMINDS ME OF LIKE DESTINY 2 THE VIDEO GAME. CAPES, AND FUTURISTIC ENERGY
As an egyptian I love all the respect and creativity ricks takes and gives from us.
This is one of your best videos, Bliss. Great thoughts and incredible insight. The conversation about permanance is so interesting
this was beautiful.
THATS WHY HE IS THE GOAT📈📈📈📈
I was a docent at the U of Chicago's Oriental Institute museum and Rick is well aware that transparent clothes were worn for 5,500 years in ancient Egypt. Transparent clothes kept people cool.
If you lived into your 30's in ancient Egypt,you were considered old. Life expectancy is relative.
I love the idea of lasting stuff. First time i had Tricker's shoes in hand i felt mortal like never before. I stood there and just admired. I passed them to my girlfriend's hands and she stood there and understood what i mean and said she needs to get a pair. They are made so well they feel like they will stand test of time for at least 2 generations (with repairs and resoles off corse). Incredible feeling.
Such an incredible and thoughtful video Bliss.
you have such an incredible way with words, i always get so inspired by just listening you sharing your thoughts and analyzing shows. thank you so so so much for everything that you do, really, it means a lot.
awesome presentation
That last section on permanance was so profound and well-made... tbh idk anything about Rick Owens or even fashion at all, I randomly saw his house tour video and then randomly saw related content, but your videos have been very interesting and enjoyable to watch. Ty for making these! :)
Shining more light in this creative genius 🙌🙌🙌
Thanks for taking the time to reflect on this show. I don't often revisit runway shows but I think I might start doing that to see if I can find the common thread between the collections I enjoy the most!
I have no idea about fashion but I can and will watch you talk about fashion all day
One of your best episodes, how far you’ve come Bliss!
I know I’ve made it because Bliss is gonna cover one of my shows (manifesting that currently)
Duddddddde blissssss stop making videos that hit soo harrrrd
I can't even think about jellyfish without thinking of Ricky Gervais and Karl Pinkerton, with Karl saying "jellyfish are 97% water, why. not add theb3% and just make them water?" and Ricky LOSING IT LAUGHING. THAT'S NOT HOW THAT WORKS.
Wow! You're the bestttt! The video was just awesome. It became one of my favorits.Thank u for making this incredible contents Bliss❤
Daaaaaamnnnn, how is it possible that these analysis vids keep on getting better and better!!!!????
Good to see that real sophistication still exists.
Like most of the all time greats, you are obsessed Bliss. Fabulous to witness. I was thinking that maybe a part of that permanence is the fact that there is a new generation in Owens life. A part of him lives on and will regenerate, like the jellyfish.
"equal the power of black" amazing
Such a great analysis. You have a great way with words
ugh thankful that rick is doing his part in sustainability 😍 thankyou for sharing!
This was amazing and super inspiring thanks so much ❤️😍💯🙏🏻
Incredible video thanks bliss
The desire for permanence is the age old theme of the human experience. Bravo Rick! beautiful collection! Well done Bliss, thank you for sharing your thoughts and knowledge...so inspiring! xo
Oh yes!! love it
sooo goood.
I appreciate how self aware Rick has been in his show notes lately, I've previously rolled my eyes at the contradiction of romanticizing dye pollution then promoting the Veja collab, the stereotypical inspirational vacation to some foreign land, or proclamation that his work has any effect against larger world issues. This collection is one of his strongest thematically and it more than pays off aesthetically. Great analysis, Bliss!
As a fashion designer i hope you know it’s more expensive to make pieces that are eco friendly rather than the normal fabric but yes fashion brands are becoming more aware
@@therealmvpee yup I'm aware, same thing with vegan food options, "green" anything, unfortunately it starts off as a lifestyle choice until it becomes more mass market, capitalism just doesn't favor these things, fortunately for Rick pricing is less of a concern than it is with actual essentials
I really enjoyed your analysis! Clever and well-formulated! .
First of all, love you Bliss and everything you do in the fashion world!! i usually never comment, but i loved the elongated shoulder analysis and how it could reflect the ‘decomposition’ of the human body; maybe even the mummification of a body, where the body is tightened and the shoulders are shrugged up, it reflects very well to the effect the garment gives as well as the lines from Rick himself.
Beautiful piece, I looked at this show to say there is always a meaning behind something.
Stellar work and commentary.
bliss this video slays!
Rick's writing on Theda Bara made me an instant fan of him...
such a good analysis
The search of permanence, the search of immortality, damn I’ve never thought about these things, this video was very giving, thank you!
This is why I love you!!!!
That was a beautiful video, congratulations
BRILLIANT VIDEO. Thank you very informative. Your the best 👌
never stop makinh videos on rick
Once again a truly insightful video! I think I find something appealing about veteran artists/designers who have the affordance of time and perspective to produce something like this. Longevity is extraordinarily hard to achieve in fashion but its so crucial to successfully ruminating about an abstraction like permanence the way he did with this collection. On one level it'd be fine to just observe the clothes as beautiful and unique/expertly crafted there's nothing wrong with that.
But then you CAN go further and the "references" (idk for the lack of a better word because he doesn't leverage them in the way I would describe them) do feel meaningful/personal/consistent with what someone at an advanced stage in their life WOULD be reflecting on. Just through a unique medium. Your accessible analysis (again lowkey an extremely difficult thing to do) brings it all together for even those of us just casually observing. My big ass literally could never fit into any of it but I love seeing what y'all get out of each presentation.
I always enjoy your videos. But, this one is beautiful.❤
Good episode...deep thoughts, good thoughts...well done!
Outstanding review! Bravissimo! You are so beautiful and acute!🤩🤩🤩👑
This one’s going in the favourites
I was thinking of Rick’s legacy, permanence etc like what would happen when he is gone. Don’t wana think about it but😢 lovely Analysis. I feel a whole new load of learnings from this video alone!
I always feel he designed the You-gi-oh caracters fits
I feel as though all of the different ways you analyze the shoulders (parentheses, fear, honoring a God, decomposition) seem to tie into a theme of sacrifice
That is a great connection, good call 💫💫
the link to decomp makes so much sense
The search for permanence well said
amazing video and good information ❤
Dear Bliss, can you PLEASE do a video on Srulis work regarding the luxury of choice. I have never experienced something more impactful than this. It’s absolutely stunning while being as morbid as it gets. At the same time it opens a avenue of discussion about a topic which is stigmatized to no end. Not sure if you have interest in this but maybe as part of a larger look at his work?
bruh luxury of choice is total edgemaster shit, and this may be my religion talking but legitimizing despair even in scare quotes is corny as hell outside of the realm of fantasy
Wow Bliss fantastic analysis… no more words needed 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻bravo 🫶🏽
Hey Bliss, note the look of the rigor-mortis shoulders, the transparency of the leather, and the way the models are asked to look cadaverous and hairless: and then go look at some pictures of Rameses II's mummy?
You might not be able to show it in the video (it's a dead body, after all), but I think there's a real visual influence here on that particular mummy.
I love how you paraphrase the CULT of Rick by how he makes his clothes with higher shoulders. This is the most beautiful fashion explanations/ analysis I've heard these days.
Great runway analysis.
Bliss I've been watching for maybe about a year. I always thought you were in your mid-twenties. 33? Please drop that skincare routine. By the way love your work, best fashion channel on yt (by a landslide).
If you're searching for the transparent leather man, type in Sruli Recht and not Cerule Erect (what the automatic transkript says). Looking forward to ads I might get now... 😄
And besides that, I just finished this episode and in the first seconds the clothes gave me a deep melancholy and the clear thought about life is going to end someday. And your talk about getting older, Rick's family and holding on to stuff and wanting it to be permanent just rounded it up. It was natural and surprising and mind blowing at the same time. Just wanted to share, love to all.
When I saw the shoulders I immediately saw it as a reference to skeletons, and more directly mummies in Egypt? That's a pretty literal interpretation, but it follows up on the sarcophagus imagery Rick was using - and again, very directly ties into that idea of permanence (especially bc of the way mummies bodies are preserved)
👏👏👏
Hee Bliss, the part with transparent leather did Ecco Leather an innovative Dutch based leather producer and do many great collaborations with fashion houses. Botter does also collars with them in the last 2 collections!
love the profound research and analysis!
Shiiiiit Scarlet has a daughter? I bet Rick would be a super cool enigmatic grandpa… idk if very affectionate or “grandfatherly” but unquestionably cool
Perfect timing! Edfu collection is now available at Rick Owens website! 🥳
And based off your profile pic, you’re very excited 🥳
@@BlissFoster 😊😁
We want your analysis on balenciaga campaign
exactly.
bliss i just discovered your channel a few months ago and i have learned so much. love the content
Thinking about the high shoulder references throughout this collection makes me think Rick was influenced by mummies and preservation. Aged garments and use of vintage materials only add to the aesthetic and overall homage to Ancient Egypt. Rick is a true student/admirer of history and culture.
_Is there anything at all that lasts?_ That, Young Sir, is a very large question.
I don't know about old age, but I can speak to my thought process at this stage of my life. I type as a mixed-media artist and sewist at the beginning of middle age. I've been creating things all my life. Some of them have survived. Many didn't. I'm also typing as someone who is attempting to downsize our sizable amount of stuff in our one-bedroom apartment. And, now that both my parents have passed, am looking at the things we're deciding to keep with an eye for 'where does this end up when I'm gone?'. We don't have children and I've had a chanced to witness the picking over of items that happens when someone passes in a care home. If something is important enough to keep, it's important enough to have a destination into the future.
Because, against all the odds, some things do last. We have handprints on cave walls - we've been calling out to the future, saying 'here I am', for a very long time. You take your gift and you use it to create the very best you can - in that time, in that space. Maybe it gets seen. Maybe it becomes an influence to someone else. It's the ultimate experiment in the butterfly effect.
As an example? If the nephew doesn't want them, the 150 yrs of family photographs go to the National Archives of Canada. One dagarotype, one tintype, a pile of Carde de Visites and many, many pictures from the 20th century. Basically, hand them a visual history of a Canadian family, from the first on-the-continent family picture in a horse and carriage (c. about 1906) to the present day. With the stipulation that any MA's and PhD's created based on that material culture - the family gets a copy. If they don't stay in the family, they'll have a home where they can be properly preserved and worked with.
As a photographer - sometimes the photo I remember the most is the one I didn't take. That moment when the stars align and life does that nanosecond freeze in a perfect constellation. Only without the shutter to stop it in amber...
As a side note. Thank you for the deep dive on this collection. I was a kid in the 70's - just the right age to fall under the spell of King Tut Mania. There's a Time Life Ancient Egypt book I can literally see in my minds eye because I memorized just about every page of the thing by the time I was six. I was lucky enough to catch the touring exhibit with my Mum when I was 10.
"History jangles like jazz" (Me, it's the title of an old poem).
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
Best comment. Thank you, Cathy, that was beautiful
@@BlissFoster Thank you. That was a good essay, Kiddo.
Thanks.
@@BlissFoster So I was thinking...
You could share the above... essay / prose-y spoken word / complete brain fart(???)... to your Discord Community if you want? I wouldn't mind - just give me the credit as author. Cheers.
I dunno. Just an idea.
Thank you again. This was a lovely piece of work.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
Honestly, you should get in there and talk! I’m sure everyone would love to hear your perspective 💫💫
@@BlissFoster *laughing* Don't think I'm not thinking about it, Young Man... Lemmie get through the next couple of months, I have a health thing and Ottawa faces the likelihood that the idiots who Occupied us last February want to do a first-year anniversary do-over. Early in the new year I'm looking at localized surgery and helping to foment a riot against potential intruders...
But. Yeah.
I am seriously eyeing March for membership (lord, does that read as corny as it types...). In the meantime, I'll see you in the funny papers... enjoy your break, enjoy the season, enjoy the new year - have a designated driver,... go have fun...
Huh. I never really GOT Rick Owens before now. Guess I should read his notes. XD
Since he is very interested in ancient Egypt, i couldn't somehow stop seeing unwrapped mummies on those shoulder effects. What do you think?
Thanks for those considered thoughts and analysis.
There's always a pop-cultural bathetic hinge to Owens' work (or his framing of his work), similar to Jeff Koons etc. The reference to fruit strip sweets was funny - we call them Winders here in the UK - and the idea of mummification through fruit winders is a typical high-low culture clash.
Also, the ideas of permanence is interesting. Though i'd disagree that the the relentless and mass capturing of being in the moment (such as those recording their presence at the runway show) is not so much about permanence but more so about broadcasting the pseudo-success of the self to an audience. Films and images go into social media feeds. They are 'tele' rather than than temporal devices - they transmit images across space rather than preserve them through time.
you gonna talk about the balenciaga dumpster fire?
You saw us here
Can you do a video about Vivienne Westwood, please and if you have already then please drop the link
🌟🌟🌟👏👏👏👏👏
Rick is like Kratos, going after all the mythologies
LONGLONGLONGLONGLONG
There's something perhaps a bit oxymoronic about considering 'fashion' as being a way to find perhamence. And my oh my Rick's prose is turgid at times. But the seeking is probably a good thing. And, any show at the Palace of Fine Arts is fun. I thought of you when watch a video of David Suchet's portrayal of Hercule Poirot called Murder in the Clouds, because 1930's fashion is, imho, intensely fascinating.
1st ever first comment
Confirmed 🤯
I know I’m very late with this, but this quote from Rick has got me thinkin some thoughts. Frankly, I never understood the mindset that comes with the “retreat home.” Rick says that his “personal concerns and global discomfort feel small” in the face of Egyptian history’s timelessness. But what of the present? Why and how does being in a foreign, exotic land for not that long grant him such peace of mind in the face of current crises in Egypt? I’m not accusing Rick Owens of purposely turning a blind eye on issues in Egypt, but he does say that he finds “great comfort in the remoteness and the scale of its history.” With this, and the other quote at 0:32, I assume that Rick Owens travels to and stays in Egypt with the goal of retreating from the stress that comes with his working and living in wherever he works and lives (Italy?). Maybe I’m reading too much into this (probably am), but that comes across as a backhanded complement to Egypt as a nation.
To exemplify, the two quotes can be read as such: “I like spending some time in Egypt because it’s rich, remote history distracts me from my woes and those of the global community.” It’s really the “global woes” bit that gets me, because Egypt isn’t Camelot. It’s a real place rife with problems like any other place; an entire new capital city is being built to avoid future protests and revolutions, Cairo is crumbling, Sisi’s hold on power shows no signs of slipping, it’s too darn hot, etc. I’m a bit baffled as to how Rick can claim to feel less “global discomfort” when in Egypt.
By no means do I think Rick Owens ought to feel culpable and crusade the crossroads of Cairo to atone for his malfeasance (of which there hardly is any). I just think we need to ask when wealthy foreigners should begin to care about the trajectories of the countries they temporarily reside in. After all, if we expect them to pay their property tax, we can also expect them to pay a little attention.
I know how much you like your audience to comment on the runway shows themselves, Bliss, so I’ll say this: I believe that Rick Owens’s current era is not one of his best, but is *the best* work he has ever done.
Have you touched on the Saturnists and/or the worship of saturn in the fashion industry at all, if not will you attempt to try. Thank you
🎉
How does he own an entire esophagus? Like artifacts should be seen by everyone, right? not sitting in someone's house 😔. Also the Zulu attire has translucent leather for decades, worn by mostly Zulu brides on their big day. It's so amazing to see it in a runaway.
True! There’s been lots of designers and cultures that have used transparent leather in the past, but it’s always been really challenging to manufacture, transparent leather on a large scale. That’s the real innovation I was talking about, the ability to make a lot of it at once 💫💫
@@BlissFoster so true and thank you Bliss. I was just sharing being a South African I've grown up only seeing translucent leather only in a Zulu traditional attire context and it's amazing to see it in this magnitude. This is one of your best analysis, we really appreciate the amount of research you pour in each video. Keep up the good work
Bliss are you ever going to speak upon the Balenciaga controversy? Want to hear your take but understand if you don't.:)
what were the glasses @ 4:03?
I think they’re just Rick Owens glasses 💫💫
So you’re not going to talk about Balenciaga?