Never solder lugs on wire. Solder is 12 times less conductive than copper. Crimping is the only method you should consider. What will happen is there will be heat generated at the connections limiting current. Obviously it depends on your highest current draw but solder connections could fail in high current situations. You never see an a high current, large wire engine starter with soldered connections.
I would rather have a low temperature disconnect in a heat able area. that way I can control the time it will be heated or not. I just got a 12v 300 amp Watt Cycle mini with low temp. It is just a little bigger than a 100 amp AGM.
I run the gain at 3.5 , and it still will stop the rig without the truck brake if applied...Jayco..28.5 RSTS HT 32' behind a 2010 Duramax with 4 wheel disc brakes.....
I thought I posted a question about the ignition wire going to D+ on the DC2DC charger. I saw it jumped in the beginning of the video and then a wire coming out of it later in the video. Is the the wire that goes to the ignition to shut off the DC2DC charger when the engine is running?
Emmanuel Don't Do It....JK. It's 6 months later and these batteries, well the LiTime 12V 200Ah Plus LiFePO4 Lithium Battery specifically, is just over $400 delivered. Man, these prices are insane. Get yours now before the tariffs kick in.
Thank you, Felicia! Come to us anytime if you got any power system question. 😀 Let's make it simple and neat!
Never solder lugs on wire. Solder is 12 times less conductive than copper. Crimping is the only method you should consider. What will happen is there will be heat generated at the connections limiting current. Obviously it depends on your highest current draw but solder connections could fail in high current situations. You never see an a high current, large wire engine starter with soldered connections.
I bought four 12V200ah heated lithium batteries from LiTime some time ago, and I feel very good when I use them!
So glad to hear that. Thats what I’m hearing from everyone! So stoked!
I would rather have a low temperature disconnect in a heat able area. that way I can control the time it will be heated or not. I just got a 12v 300 amp Watt Cycle mini with low temp. It is just a little bigger than a 100 amp AGM.
I hope your alternator is at least 180amp because 60a DC to DC needs that at tick over to avoid heating
I run the gain at 3.5 , and it still will stop the rig without the truck brake if applied...Jayco..28.5 RSTS HT 32' behind a 2010 Duramax with 4 wheel disc brakes.....
I thought I posted a question about the ignition wire going to D+ on the DC2DC charger. I saw it jumped in the beginning of the video and then a wire coming out of it later in the video. Is the the wire that goes to the ignition to shut off the DC2DC charger when the engine is running?
Great setup! Andrew for the win!💪
Thank you!! And seriously he’s the MVP for doing it all himself!⚡️
Emmanuel Don't Do It....JK. It's 6 months later and these batteries, well the LiTime 12V 200Ah Plus LiFePO4 Lithium Battery specifically, is just over $400 delivered. Man, these prices are insane. Get yours now before the tariffs kick in.
Good info, nice upgrade. I am switching to lithium for my teardrop... dropping it off tomorrow!
Thanks so much! ah that’s awesome, it’s been such a game changer for us!
Did this battery not have the Bluetooth monitoring?
This one we installed doesn’t include Bluetooth monitoring but the brand new ones do!
Does your dc charger drain starter battery when you don’t drive?
nice video！
Thank you so much! 😊