Completed this task moments ago. This video’s instructions are spot on! Glad to see someone else values the importance on new bolts, and the use of torque wrench to spec. Thank you!
Hey, you definitely don’t want to try stuffing the grommet and shaft in from the engine compartment. I just did it in a half hour and pushed it from the inside out. Push it in as far as you can from the inside and then from the bottom of the car grab the tabs hanging off the grommet with pliers and pull it through. Don’t pull too hard or you might rip the rubber off, just work your way around.
Hello sir, tell me something if you're in the know. You see when you're under the car, the lowest bolt you removed, the knuckle the fits to the steering rack. What's that joints name? Or type etc. I installed a down pipe to my b8.5, the downpipe is a 3" integrated engineering downpipe. It's designed for left hand drive, mine is right hand drive. I had to modify the downpipe slightly to get it to pass the steering rack. We heated and pressed the pipe to try replicate the original cat press angle but it's still "just touching" the protective ring which I made a custom heat shield for. While I drive.. depending on camber of the road etc I can feel vibration through the steering. My though process is .. yes, I could lift the car and keep uninstalling the cat and pressing the exhaust but it's only compressing the pipe more and more. Or what I pondered was.. you can get steering rack extensions, much the same as the knuckle in the foot well that you first disconnected. But I'd need a female to male. This knuckle would give me all the clearance I require but I'm struggling to find a knuckle online. Any ideas or suggestions? My clearance from above if very awkward to poke and prod to nudge the exhaust and is quite dangerous when heat cycles happen (obviously easier when hot) and the under side is impossible without removing the shields and lifting the car. So I'm pondering about a knuckle joint. What do you think?
@@davidbroadhurst9803 I wanna know too.. mine is clunking also. and I just put a new electric rack.. was doing it with the old one also.. oddly its a florida car...
@@hogueraleksander5868 Replaced mine today, I've taken it for a 20 minute drive and noise is gone. Before the noise would start after about 5 minutes of warm up. The job is easy except for getting the rubber boot seated properly which was a real mission. The audi service manual says to attach the shaft at the steering wheel end, then get the boot in place and then attach it to the steering rack, I think this is the right approach. The shaft doesn't come with the bolts, you have to order those seperately.
@@hasanayat5516 your car already had the latest revision part and you are replacing it with an older revision. I think there is no guarantee a used part from breakers won't have the same problem.
What was the reason for changing it? Noice? Squeaking sound when turning the wheel? Because I hear squeaking when I turn to left only and Inhave killed it with lube and WD40 but it doesn’t help
Completed this task moments ago. This video’s instructions are spot on! Glad to see someone else values the importance on new bolts, and the use of torque wrench to spec. Thank you!
This was super helpful, just replaced this part this weekend. The one that came out was completely rusted.
This is helpful thank you, will try it soon. Dealer is asking $1,200+ straight-up robbery.
LOL 1200 thats hilarious. an honest dealer wouldnt charge that much
@@jeizeroAudi in Stratham NH wants $1400 to do this on a 2017 Q5.... I just bought a new steering shaft from RockAuto for $180 and I'll do it myself
Hey, you definitely don’t want to try stuffing the grommet and shaft in from the engine compartment. I just did it in a half hour and pushed it from the inside out. Push it in as far as you can from the inside and then from the bottom of the car grab the tabs hanging off the grommet with pliers and pull it through. Don’t pull too hard or you might rip the rubber off, just work your way around.
I’m pretty sure when you remove the key from ignition the steering wheel it locks 🔒 itself. Right?
ye exactly
the shaft can only go in one way because it is notched. also you can just lock the steering wheel by removing the key and turning in either direction
What were the symptoms mate, clunking/nocking noise when turning the steering from left to right at low speeds?
Did your steering wheel squeak when you turned it (during the old steering shaft)?
Hello sir, tell me something if you're in the know. You see when you're under the car, the lowest bolt you removed, the knuckle the fits to the steering rack. What's that joints name? Or type etc. I installed a down pipe to my b8.5, the downpipe is a 3" integrated engineering downpipe. It's designed for left hand drive, mine is right hand drive. I had to modify the downpipe slightly to get it to pass the steering rack. We heated and pressed the pipe to try replicate the original cat press angle but it's still "just touching" the protective ring which I made a custom heat shield for. While I drive.. depending on camber of the road etc I can feel vibration through the steering. My though process is .. yes, I could lift the car and keep uninstalling the cat and pressing the exhaust but it's only compressing the pipe more and more. Or what I pondered was.. you can get steering rack extensions, much the same as the knuckle in the foot well that you first disconnected. But I'd need a female to male. This knuckle would give me all the clearance I require but I'm struggling to find a knuckle online. Any ideas or suggestions? My clearance from above if very awkward to poke and prod to nudge the exhaust and is quite dangerous when heat cycles happen (obviously easier when hot) and the under side is impossible without removing the shields and lifting the car. So I'm pondering about a knuckle joint. What do you think?
Excellent video. Thank you.
what is the original part number?
Great vid
Will the same part fit the audi a5? Or they different?
Guys can I ask, the clunking knocking noise did we all get this while the car was warm or from cold ? Mines when it warms up
Same here, drive it for a few minutes than it's starts to clunk. Definitely following.
same here, does this shaft replacement fix it?
@@davidbroadhurst9803 I wanna know too.. mine is clunking also. and I just put a new electric rack.. was doing it with the old one also.. oddly its a florida car...
@@hogueraleksander5868 Replaced mine today, I've taken it for a 20 minute drive and noise is gone. Before the noise would start after about 5 minutes of warm up. The job is easy except for getting the rubber boot seated properly which was a real mission. The audi service manual says to attach the shaft at the steering wheel end, then get the boot in place and then attach it to the steering rack, I think this is the right approach. The shaft doesn't come with the bolts, you have to order those seperately.
@@davidbroadhurst9803 hi david does yours still making noise up until now?
It is called a ratchet for a reason....
If your car is right hand drive part number is different 8K2419753H
Does it matter if last letter different for example instead of H a F
@@hasanayat5516 this is the revision number, if you buy a brand new part if should be h on the new part. The part that was in my car was C.
@@davidbroadhurst9803 my car has the H I couldn't only find F from breakers so I purchased that
@@hasanayat5516 your car already had the latest revision part and you are replacing it with an older revision. I think there is no guarantee a used part from breakers won't have the same problem.
What was the reason for changing it? Noice? Squeaking sound when turning the wheel? Because I hear squeaking when I turn to left only and Inhave killed it with lube and WD40 but it doesn’t help