Thanks a lot for this! There’s really just no one that covers this so I’m really grateful. Btw, was waiting the whole video for you to slip up and it finally happened around 9:54
I was given a complete brace and bit set from a woman whose husband had passed away a few years back. I had always wanted one, more for nostalgia than any other reason but now that I have it I believe I will get a great deal of use out of it. The one thing I was missing was some competent help on how to sharpen. I have that, now, with your video and I am grateful to you and my neighbor for the generosity and the knowledge.
You can abrade off the teeth of any file on a rough oil stone ( use a silicon carbide or diamond if you have one). I use a triangular needle file for auger bits. Make both nickers the same height, and sharp on the top. Take off the burr on the outside.
Had to drill a hole with a #14 auger bit. It did not want to cut with my brace and bit. I sharpened the wings and leading edges. Nothing. It would not work. I then drilled an 1/8" hole to try to 'lead' the screw through the wood. IT WORKED PERFECTLY. I guess the pine was too soft and stripped as the lead screw was going into it. The small hole gave the auger something to grab into. Woodworking is hard thinking. Problem solving.
I've always sharpened with regular files that fit the space. Minding the change in plane of the blade and such. No issues, no changes in bevel or profile. I've also been advised to use a small file and create a "safe" edge with a throw away sharpening stone. Never did that though. Just go slow and careful. For really small augers, you'd have to use a 'safe' edge file or one of these. augers demonstrated by James (Edit)...Forgot to add a rant: Just bought an extra set of augers online and got screwed royally....the seller ground off some of the tangs to a cylinder to use it in his drill press. Did such a bang up job, doesn't even spin on its axis. Arrrrghhh....mad at myself for not paying careful attention to the blurry photos. The 'ruined' ones were flanked by the better ones, so the tangs just blended with the ruined tangs. I'll admit, tried to save some money seeing a 'good deal', but bit me in the ass.
I'm currently designing my timber frame cabin/home. My goal is to build and furnish my home with traditional methods and absolutely no power tools. Eventually I will have a home and farm that I can be proud of. your channel has the information I want, in a format I like and with a personality I can handle. for that I thank you.
Wood By Wright I don't think I will, the information is already here and easily accessible. Due to the recent changes it would be hard to generate any money with the videos. thanks again.
I understand. but in my mind, it would not be about the money but the community. I have 7 channels and this is the only one that is monetized. the rest are there for people that are interested in the topic.
I just inherited a brace and a box of bits from my grandfather. I just got them out and they work great, and I'm excited to restore them a little and make them shine. Thanks for this video!
James that was typical of your videos - just about perfect. Very, very helpful to me, a beginner with an interest in hand tools (quieter tools). Just bought a set of bits and they need sharpening. Thank you. Kevin.
Fantastic! Got some rusty old augers at a car boot sale, gave them a go and it too soo much pressure for them to stop spinning that I bruised my stomach with the brace haha Lil bit of sharpening and they work beautifully now. Cheers 👍
hey thanks James! i had an auger bit that was in great condition but i was having difficulty using and seemed like it was always getting "stuck" once i got the hole started and after sharpening works so much better!
I normally make my own safe files. I started refurbishing a Millers Falls brace but don't have any screw lead spiral bits. I have owned an adj bit like that b4 but was young and a tard, cut the square of so I could use it in power tools. I think I need a new one for my Brace if I ever finish it. Was debating buying a hex drive set of bits so i can use them in more tools.
I have an adjustable Stanley auger and I do find that on soft woods many times when I'm boring through the wood it will split straight in half as soon as the lead screw goes fully into the wood. Any tips for stopping this from happening?
What should I do about rusty/gunky bits? I got a pile of augers for cheap recently but most of them are very dark from rust and/or being stored in (used motor?) oil. Was considering leaving them all in some vinegar or buying some evaporust but I'm worried about damaging the diameters. Aside: I also managed to get a rare pattern of auger in the lot - it's like the irwin style but lacking the central shaft and a fairly small diameter.
Aubreykun Not much you can do, really. The rusted material is already lost, so just throw then in some vinegar, let them soak, and then hit them with your brass brushes. Follow up with a water bath to neutralize, dry them off, hit them with a fine polishing compound, clean them off, sharpen them up, hit them with some oil, and then store them in a soft pouch or compartmentalized drawer so your edges don't get beat up after all that hard work!
Hi James, nice video. Lots of good info. How important is it to keep the two blades at the same level? Do you try to take the same number of strokes on each side? Will it still work if they are not at the same level? I guess the shorter side wouldn’t do any work? Thanks.
The amount of material that it takes off with the file is too little to make a difference on lowering one side more than the other. Usually the wobble the blade will more than compensate for that. So it's not something I really try to focus on that much. I just don't change the bevel leave it at where it was and usually stays about the same. On average I only sharpen them once every few years.
Oh wow. James, it’s been a while since I’ve had time to do/watch woodworking. I’m about to build my new bench. I just wanted to make sure I was right about my bits. Thanks for sharing bud.
I generally don't. if they are bent I just chuck them and get another. you can try to bend them back but it often causes more problems then they are worth.
I love the opening James remember what they say be happy in your work and there's no happy or feeling then talking to your tools LOL great video brother very informative
there is another kind of adjustable you missed, they have the center point then the adjustable portion is more like just an offset cutter, as a result they appear to only be usable for cutting to the depth the blade stick out forwards of the main adjustment bar it is built into, I would imagine their main purpose was for sheet rock and skirting boards back in the days of early wiring similar to what you'd use a hole saw for today in construction but adjustable, just need to get round to sharpening mine.
well well well, just so, love it. Thanks kindly. You know,, RUclips is just bizarre. I got a notification today that this was a new video by you, and here it's from years ago.
Excellent presentation. I bought an inexpensive set of needle files and it had a small auger file in it. I think from Princess Auto (a Canadian version of Harbour Freight). I also find that the #12 (3/4") are hardest to find at yard sales.
Your auger bits are definitely different than modern ones. The single spiral going back from the cutting edges is much thinner and is spaced out more than modern augers. I am on a mission to find some of these old style auger bits. I do not like the modern ones. They bind every half turn. Even on soft wood. The auger files are sold new. Easy to find. Thanks James!!!
There are some sets up on ebay that share the design of some of yours. I have two flea markets to hit before making a decision on those. The augers are very handy and having a few that work really well are almost a necessity. Thanks for the great advice and inspiration.
Thank you. Very well done video. I got some auger bits from eBay that need tuning and got an auger bit file through Amazon. Thanks again, your videos are very helpful as I transition from power tools to hand tools.
Where could I find bits with such a 'nicker'? I'm thinking about starting woodworking and I'm about to order a Stanley hand drill, and would like to have such bits but I can't find them (my native language is Dutch and I don't know the name in Dutch which makes it more difficult for me). Thanks for the video!
Oh never mind, I found an online store that delivers in Belgium. The pictures aren't that clear to see of the auger bits have such a nikker or not, I think it's best that I would find a store that sells them
+Brecht Schatteman nice. I get mine from garage sales and resale Stores. But you can still find them on ebay and I think Lee Valley sells them now too. I search for Brace Bits.
+Wood By Wright Thanks for the answer! Here in Belgium garage sales aren't that popular, most people just ask to friends and family if they could use what they are about to throw away, or they just sell it on eBay. But hand tools and their accessories aren't that popular here, most people who do woodworking are the power tools kind of people. I guess to only way to find them than is via Internet (eBay as you suggested) or going to a flee market in the hope someone has the traditional tools for sales (most often with a story from their grandparents attached).
Yeah I have 3 normal auger bits but I haven't used them that much yet! Well one of them has the screw broken so I don't think I can't do much with that one :) But I'll keep this video in my library for when the time comes!
You will be happy to know that I got an email back from Irwin saying that yes, these are a discontinued item and that they can't be expected to produce a product forever... guess how much I'm loving them right now! Found two at the Irwin warehouse and another 4 at the Fastenal branch in London, Ontario - they are being shipped to me in North Bay, Ontario as we speak. I wish there was a way to put a point back on the lead screw - some sort of a bolt thread cutter type thing...
I was going to mention that about the spur. a few times it sounded like he was saying something else when he said "nicker" wouldnt want the youtube police to crack down for imaginary wrongthink. =)
Yeah, ok. But here's the thing. It is very difficult to find decent auger bits in most parts of North America. I recently purchased a set of Irwin bits on Amazon. They are made in Brazil. and are total crap, so badly machined that even after hours of work with a Lee Valley auger bit file and diamond hones, they simple will not drill holes properly. I have paid close attention to which edges should be sharpened, having watched this video, Paul Sellers' video, and many others. As far as I can tell, the bits are quite sharp, but they still do not work worth a damn. I have no intention of spending my time at garage sales or flea markets when I should actually be making stuff f out of wood. So, unless someone can point me to a source for new, good quality bits that are not so expensive that I have to take out a second mortgage, I am sticking with my electric drill.
No one makes them anymore with any quality. The only place you can get them is estate sales and garage sales, and antique stores. With a couple minutes of work, they are as good as new. I almost never buy new tools when there are so many antiques out there for dirt cheap ant work perfectly with a bit of love.
www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/MS-JB.XX/Jennings_Pattern_Auger_Bit_for_BracesI have seen more online, you can also buy ones with the hex shanks, pretty easy to find.There are lots of old/new stock about, Clico in the U.K made them until recently, you can still buy them from online retailers whilst the stocks last. Unless you want deep holes or need to drill holes quickly, I recommend you buy centre bits, or the new style centre bits instead. Centre bits are easy to sharpen and maintain, pretty easy to find and very cheap.There are a couple of good videos on youtube demonstrating centre bits use.
Dwarfsbane Ironfist thx for that info. I discovered that my problem was not the auger bits, but my brace. The flea market brace I was using had a slight wobble which I had not noticed because of noob ignorance. When I spent the money on a new and expensive Lee Valley 3 jaw brace, my Irwin bits work just fine. The wobble (about an inch at the chuck end) apparently really stops the cutting edges from cutting a curled chip in the wood. Instead, once whole got about a centimetre deep, it just made sawdust or powder. The new brace with a 3 jaw chuck works for traditional bits but also really grabs hex and even round shanks securely. Live and learn, eh?
Thanks a lot for this! There’s really just no one that covers this so I’m really grateful.
Btw, was waiting the whole video for you to slip up and it finally happened around 9:54
I was given a complete brace and bit set from a woman whose husband had passed away a few years back. I had always wanted one, more for nostalgia than any other reason but now that I have it I believe I will get a great deal of use out of it. The one thing I was missing was some competent help on how to sharpen. I have that, now, with your video and I am grateful to you and my neighbor for the generosity and the knowledge.
thanks! glad i could help!
So the old saying " don't get your (k)nickers in a twist" just got a whole new meaning.
LOL yup
Thanks for this, bit and bit-user are no longer dull!
Liked and subbed. Great work on this!
You can abrade off the teeth of any file on a rough oil stone ( use a silicon carbide or diamond if you have one). I use a triangular needle file for auger bits. Make both nickers the same height, and sharp on the top. Take off the burr on the outside.
I always wondered what the number on the tang was in relation to!
yup. they use to do the same thing for hollows and rounds.
I have several augers and a brace that needs to be restored so this was a very helpful tutorial. Thank you for sharing this.
Had to drill a hole with a #14 auger bit. It did not want to cut with my brace and bit. I sharpened the wings and leading edges. Nothing. It would not work. I then drilled an 1/8" hole to try to 'lead' the screw through the wood. IT WORKED PERFECTLY. I guess the pine was too soft and stripped as the lead screw was going into it. The small hole gave the auger something to grab into. Woodworking is hard thinking. Problem solving.
yup some times that is the trick with the bigger ones. especially if you have the wrong lead screw for the hardness of the wood.
Great video. Very informative
Best tutorial on sharpening bits yet. Thank you!
I've always sharpened with regular files that fit the space. Minding the change in plane of the blade and such. No issues, no changes in bevel or profile. I've also been advised to use a small file and create a "safe" edge with a throw away sharpening stone. Never did that though. Just go slow and careful. For really small augers, you'd have to use a 'safe' edge file or one of these. augers demonstrated by James (Edit)...Forgot to add a rant: Just bought an extra set of augers online and got screwed royally....the seller ground off some of the tangs to a cylinder to use it in his drill press. Did such a bang up job, doesn't even spin on its axis. Arrrrghhh....mad at myself for not paying careful attention to the blurry photos. The 'ruined' ones were flanked by the better ones, so the tangs just blended with the ruined tangs. I'll admit, tried to save some money seeing a 'good deal', but bit me in the ass.
+Slap Stick yup. I used a standard file for a long time tell I got an auger file.
Thank you Sir.🎉
I know you mentioned some people polish with diamon file, but is it safe to just use diamond files like the Eze Lap or small diamond stones?
Sure. As long as they fit in there.
After soaking off rust the metal turned black. How to correct this.?
I'm assuming used vinegar? In which case you can scrub that off. But generally just using it will clean it off.
Great information! Thx
I'm currently designing my timber frame cabin/home. My goal is to build and furnish my home with traditional methods and absolutely no power tools. Eventually I will have a home and farm that I can be proud of. your channel has the information I want, in a format I like and with a personality I can handle. for that I thank you.
That sounds like a great project! are you going to do a RUclips channel to catalog it?
Wood By Wright I don't think I will, the information is already here and easily accessible. Due to the recent changes it would be hard to generate any money with the videos. thanks again.
I understand. but in my mind, it would not be about the money but the community. I have 7 channels and this is the only one that is monetized. the rest are there for people that are interested in the topic.
second the idea to vlog your project. It could bring inspiration to someone else to do the same. that would be payment in itself.
I just inherited a brace and a box of bits from my grandfather. I just got them out and they work great, and I'm excited to restore them a little and make them shine. Thanks for this video!
sounds like fun!
I assume also the safe edge could be used like a hone steel to take off a slight burr before sharpening?
yes. that is a great thing to use for card scrapers too.
Great video!!! I have several antique woodworking tools and a moderate index of auger bits some in awesome shape and some in need of reconditioning.
thanks.
Excellent! Thnks
Why my auger bits stop drilling after a inch hole ?
Usually they are not sharp enough.
James that was typical of your videos - just about perfect. Very, very helpful to me, a beginner with an interest in hand tools (quieter tools). Just bought a set of bits and they need sharpening. Thank you. Kevin.
thanks Kevin! It is amazing what a sharp auger can do!
Fantastic! Got some rusty old augers at a car boot sale, gave them a go and it too soo much pressure for them to stop spinning that I bruised my stomach with the brace haha Lil bit of sharpening and they work beautifully now. Cheers 👍
hey thanks James! i had an auger bit that was in great condition but i was having difficulty using and seemed like it was always getting "stuck" once i got the hole started and after sharpening works so much better!
Is it easier to lock the blade in a vice o hold it by hand?
I find it easier to do it by hand, but everyone is different.
Excellent class, my old brace and five dull bits thank you!!!
Good tips on the sharpening of the bits I was close using needle files regularly
Well done I am an old sharpener and your are totally correct Thanks
thanks Tommy!
Thanks, helpful refresher, much appreciated
I normally make my own safe files. I started refurbishing a Millers Falls brace but don't have any screw lead spiral bits. I have owned an adj bit like that b4 but was young and a tard, cut the square of so I could use it in power tools. I think I need a new one for my Brace if I ever finish it. Was debating buying a hex drive set of bits so i can use them in more tools.
just make sure your brace can use hex drive some cant. but it is always a good option.
didnt know that, will look when i can, thx for that
I have an adjustable Stanley auger and I do find that on soft woods many times when I'm boring through the wood it will split straight in half as soon as the lead screw goes fully into the wood. Any tips for stopping this from happening?
Yes. Clamp across the board to stop it from splitting.
What should I do about rusty/gunky bits? I got a pile of augers for cheap recently but most of them are very dark from rust and/or being stored in (used motor?) oil. Was considering leaving them all in some vinegar or buying some evaporust but I'm worried about damaging the diameters.
Aside: I also managed to get a rare pattern of auger in the lot - it's like the irwin style but lacking the central shaft and a fairly small diameter.
6-24 hours in vinegar then a scrub down with a wire brush. then oil to keep them good does the trick.
Aubreykun Not much you can do, really. The rusted material is already lost, so just throw then in some vinegar, let them soak, and then hit them with your brass brushes. Follow up with a water bath to neutralize, dry them off, hit them with a fine polishing compound, clean them off, sharpen them up, hit them with some oil, and then store them in a soft pouch or compartmentalized drawer so your edges don't get beat up after all that hard work!
Didn’t have a file so cemented some 400 grit sand paper to a trimmed pop cycle stick. Thanks for the tutorial.
The sharpening tool is very important. A properly sharpened tool is the key to success. Good video. Like!
very true. thanks for watching!
Hi James, nice video. Lots of good info. How important is it to keep the two blades at the same level? Do you try to take the same number of strokes on each side? Will it still work if they are not at the same level? I guess the shorter side wouldn’t do any work? Thanks.
The amount of material that it takes off with the file is too little to make a difference on lowering one side more than the other. Usually the wobble the blade will more than compensate for that. So it's not something I really try to focus on that much. I just don't change the bevel leave it at where it was and usually stays about the same. On average I only sharpen them once every few years.
Good job explaining the hard parts to all of us numptys trying to figure out what to do with these bits!!
+Boozoo Chavis thanks man. I also bevel a newer video with even more information on them.
Oh wow. James, it’s been a while since I’ve had time to do/watch woodworking. I’m about to build my new bench. I just wanted to make sure I was right about my bits. Thanks for sharing bud.
thanks man. looking forward to seeing the bench!
i just purchased a smaller brace today at a local flea market for $2 and a nice chisel for 50 cents. plus i got a great stroll, cheers
Thank you James. Needing to sharpen my adjustable auger bit. You explained it well
I got my auger bit file from Lee Valley. www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=70693&cat=1,320,43072,43089,70693
that is probably the first one on my list if I were to buy another.
Thanks! I watched several videos on this and yours was the best.
thanks Mike. that means a lot
Great! You answered my questions in your demo! Thx.
Glad I could help.
What about straightening a long auger bit?
I generally don't. if they are bent I just chuck them and get another. you can try to bend them back but it often causes more problems then they are worth.
just what i needed to restore my adjustable auger bit. thank you!
sweet! glad I could help!
I love the opening James remember what they say be happy in your work and there's no happy or feeling then talking to your tools LOL great video brother very informative
thanks! I am trying to add a few more interesting moments like that.
there is another kind of adjustable you missed, they have the center point then the adjustable portion is more like just an offset cutter, as a result they appear to only be usable for cutting to the depth the blade stick out forwards of the main adjustment bar it is built into, I would imagine their main purpose was for sheet rock and skirting boards back in the days of early wiring similar to what you'd use a hole saw for today in construction but adjustable, just need to get round to sharpening mine.
Add the "buy tools here" links, please. I need a auger file.
This is the one I use amzn.to/3oeBVFv
well well well, just so, love it. Thanks kindly. You know,, RUclips is just bizarre. I got a notification today that this was a new video by you, and here it's from years ago.
Good but ... what about the other side of the file with only the sides ? Cheers !
That is for the small augers where the mane face of the file will not fit.
Thanks!!! I'm going to town!!!
Excellent presentation. I bought an inexpensive set of needle files and it had a small auger file in it. I think from Princess Auto (a Canadian version of Harbour Freight). I also find that the #12 (3/4") are hardest to find at yard sales.
+Jim Dockrell (Watertone) very true 3/4 and 1/2 have a tendency to be the first to go.
The nicker is also known as a spur. The screw tip is sometimes known as a snail.
yup. I am always impressed by how many names there are for the same thing given distance and time.
Great video James. Love the intro!
+Felix Espana thanks. Trying to spice things up a bit.
Thanks bro 1st for me Awesome my friend i like it :)
+TJ'S WOODWORKING SHOP thanks. It is alot of fun.
I see my friend nice bro :)
Totally worth the price of admission! I'm going to sharpen a couple that have been paining me. Thanks
+Wildman Tech sweet! Looking forward to what you have.
Your auger bits are definitely different than modern ones. The single spiral going back from the cutting edges is much thinner and is spaced out more than modern augers. I am on a mission to find some of these old style auger bits. I do not like the modern ones. They bind every half turn. Even on soft wood. The auger files are sold new. Easy to find. Thanks James!!!
hopefully that will be tomorrow's video
There are some sets up on ebay that share the design of some of yours. I have two flea markets to hit before making a decision on those. The augers are very handy and having a few that work really well are almost a necessity. Thanks for the great advice and inspiration.
yup you just got to be careful I will go through 50+ before I find one that is worth getting. but a good auger is a true joy!
Even a so-so auger is better than a modern one that will not work. I would never buy one with the 'pig-tail' damaged or missing. No fixing that.
yup that is the first thing I mention!
Thank you, very useful to me! 🙏
Sweet.I have a entire set double spiral auger bits that use to be my grandfathers all of them need to be sharpened
a good sharp auger bit is a joy to use.
True! I prefer vintage tools, myself.
You might want to use a curved slip stone, or a cylindrical, chain saw file to sharpen the inside of the blade on your adjustable.
thanks!
Good video. But I didn't see how you sharpened the leading screw?
Thanks, James! I have a few of these old bits...:)
they are a lot of fun to use.
You have some very annoying noise in the back ground. It may or may not be music
Thank you. Very well done video. I got some auger bits from eBay that need tuning and got an auger bit file through Amazon. Thanks again, your videos are very helpful as I transition from power tools to hand tools.
+Ken DeHaas thanks for the great compliment. I'm glad I could be of some assistance.
as always simple and informative till the last detail
thanks!
Now I have a hand up on sharpening those bits I salvaged.
+Larry Cowden nice. I love seeing them coming back to life.
Very nicely done ! Great video man :-)
+The ShavingWood Workshop thanks.
With the broken ones you could put steel rope in the Spiral and Forge weld it to get some Damascus Steel
now that would be a fun video!
useful and clear, especially about a saw file for damaged screws. Thanks !
+Daniel Solowiej I have also used Japanese files as they are even tighter but it helps a lot.
Good info. I picked up a set about a year ago. Not used them yet, i think they need some work. Now all i need is a file like that...
+Willem Kossen fun. When they are sharp I am always amazed how fast they are.
Very informative. That one bit is a monster. WOW!
+Waylight Creations they come alot bigger then that. I saw one with a 4" a few weeks back. That would be fun to turn by hand.
Wood By Wright It'd be a workout for sure.
I have a coffee can full of those- many were Grand father's. Now I know how to tune them up. Thanks
they are extremely fast cutters when they ar sharp. it often surprises people just what they can do.
Where could I find bits with such a 'nicker'? I'm thinking about starting woodworking and I'm about to order a Stanley hand drill, and would like to have such bits but I can't find them (my native language is Dutch and I don't know the name in Dutch which makes it more difficult for me). Thanks for the video!
Oh never mind, I found an online store that delivers in Belgium. The pictures aren't that clear to see of the auger bits have such a nikker or not, I think it's best that I would find a store that sells them
+Brecht Schatteman nice. I get mine from garage sales and resale Stores. But you can still find them on ebay and I think Lee Valley sells them now too. I search for Brace Bits.
+Wood By Wright Thanks for the answer! Here in Belgium garage sales aren't that popular, most people just ask to friends and family if they could use what they are about to throw away, or they just sell it on eBay. But hand tools and their accessories aren't that popular here, most people who do woodworking are the power tools kind of people. I guess to only way to find them than is via Internet (eBay as you suggested) or going to a flee market in the hope someone has the traditional tools for sales (most often with a story from their grandparents attached).
Hi, www.fine-tools.com/ based in Berlin sell Lots of quality woodworking tools, deliver throughout Europe, they sell auger bits.
my gosh you waffle
you bet! LOL
Thank you for this instructable video
+Daniel Szekely thanks for watching.
Nice video. Do you ever polish the outside of your knickers?
+John Burkitt I have never tried that. Sounds like a fun experement.
1:01
1:08
That's what she said
Thank you.
+Robert Brunston no thank you!
it has a WHAT on the side?!?!?!!?
Lol nickers go by all kinds of names that is just what I was raised with.
Interesting!!
+Cactus! workshop do you have any to sharpen?
Yeah I have 3 normal auger bits but I haven't used them that much yet! Well one of them has the screw broken so I don't think I can't do much with that one :) But I'll keep this video in my library for when the time comes!
8:00
You will be happy to know that I got an email back from Irwin saying that yes, these are a discontinued item and that they can't be expected to produce a product forever... guess how much I'm loving them right now! Found two at the Irwin warehouse and another 4 at the Fastenal branch in London, Ontario - they are being shipped to me in North Bay, Ontario as we speak. I wish there was a way to put a point back on the lead screw - some sort of a bolt thread cutter type thing...
If your waiting to find out how to sharpen an auger bit, start watching 8 minutes in.
That "nicker" james is called the spur. Just like the ones on rebate planes
+John Thackray it is also called a lot of other things depending on where you are from.
Wood By Wright i have only ever known it by one name aha wherever ive been. you have taught me something new
spur is by far the most common, but I have also heard knives, barbs, and "pointy things" LOL
Wood By Wright lol
I was going to mention that about the spur. a few times it sounded like he was saying something else when he said "nicker" wouldnt want the youtube police to crack down for imaginary wrongthink. =)
Dross is welding
Yeah, ok. But here's the thing. It is very difficult to find decent auger bits in most parts of North America. I recently purchased a set of Irwin bits on Amazon. They are made in Brazil. and are total crap, so badly machined that even after hours of work with a Lee Valley auger bit file and diamond hones, they simple will not drill holes properly. I have paid close attention to which edges should be sharpened, having watched this video, Paul Sellers' video, and many others. As far as I can tell, the bits are quite sharp, but they still do not work worth a damn. I have no intention of spending my time at garage sales or flea markets when I should actually be making stuff f out of wood. So, unless someone can point me to a source for new, good quality bits that are not so expensive that I have to take out a second mortgage, I am sticking with my electric drill.
No one makes them anymore with any quality. The only place you can get them is estate sales and garage sales, and antique stores. With a couple minutes of work, they are as good as new. I almost never buy new tools when there are so many antiques out there for dirt cheap ant work perfectly with a bit of love.
www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/MS-JB.XX/Jennings_Pattern_Auger_Bit_for_BracesI have seen more online, you can also buy ones with the hex shanks, pretty easy to find.There are lots of old/new stock about, Clico in the U.K made them until recently, you can still buy them from online retailers whilst the stocks last. Unless you want deep holes or need to drill holes quickly, I recommend you buy centre bits, or the new style centre bits instead. Centre bits are easy to sharpen and maintain, pretty easy to find and very cheap.There are a couple of good videos on youtube demonstrating centre bits use.
Dwarfsbane Ironfist thx for that info. I discovered that my problem was not the auger bits, but my brace. The flea market brace I was using had a slight wobble which I had not noticed because of noob ignorance. When I spent the money on a new and expensive Lee Valley 3 jaw brace, my Irwin bits work just fine. The wobble (about an inch at the chuck end) apparently really stops the cutting edges from cutting a curled chip in the wood. Instead, once whole got about a centimetre deep, it just made sawdust or powder. The new brace with a 3 jaw chuck works for traditional bits but also really grabs hex and even round shanks securely. Live and learn, eh?