Kinetic consulting, one of the best channels out there. I’m on way to getting into the next level of firearms related things and the info given on here is excellent. Making it easy to figure out what I need. Thanks!
Great video. Another option I've found is to purchase a few feet of adhesive backed closed cell foam or rubber weather striping. They can be found in rolls roughly 1"-2" wide, 1/8" - 1/2" thick, and as long as you need. I used a piece 1 1/4" wide, 1/4" thick, and cut it 2 3/4" long and it works perfect. After cutting it to the size you need, you simply stick the adhesive side to the helmet shell through the gap in the shroud. You can still easily remove the mount, but the cushion of the foam presses outward on the mount, taking up the slack of the shroud to mount interface. This solution is also weatherproof, which is nice. Just a thought.
i fixed my rattle with the foam off a pelican case about two slits of foam and put it between the wilcox g24 mount and the shroud and my pvs14 doesn't rattle anymore.
I used some leukotape on the back of my g24, zero rattle now. I have a teamwendy ballistic, not sure why mine had so much rattle. Also I still have some left to right rattle but it's in the mount itself, not related to where the mount meets the shroud. Remaining rattle is in the l24 itself
Oh man its gotta suck to spend $500 on a wilcox and have to shim it. Its also gotta suck paying $500 on a wilcox when your taxes have been buying them for years.
@@pounc3r782 sotac sell decent knock off wilcox for like 1/8 the price of a real one. I've got 2, one on my own helmet and one on a loaner helmet no issues with either.
John, I'm looking for some guidance around helmet mounted lights. Would you suggest a modlite IR head or a SF KM1/2 for that white/IR switch capability?
(Opinion) By no means am I high-speed anything but I learned this trick in film school when these helmets first came out, we had to mount steadicams to them, so there could be no vibration. Get utility strength Velcro, put female on the helmet male on the nvg, you can stack double sided tape as needed to eat the extra space as a shim if needed. Just an opinion I do it now, with my atn gen 2's (poverty).
@@sbhjackson5931 On the IHPS helmet? The shroud probably works better with Wilcox. I will have to try my friend who has one in my unit. The shroud Is labeled as a ceradyne product.
So basically the way to “fix” wobble, spend $800 for a real helmet, $400 for a Wilcox shroud and $500 for the Wilcox mount, got it lol. (I’m still using my gen 3 pvs7 with a plastic bump helmet I bought used), like the guy said in the comment about me, poverty, and it sucks.
omg why youtube tutorial videos are always able to make a simple idea into 5 minutes of talking.... watch through videos like this is such pain and waste of time
Just did this a few weeks ago when I got my new G22. I like how in-depth your channel goes into NV devices and accessories. Keep em comin
Kinetic consulting, one of the best channels out there. I’m on way to getting into the next level of firearms related things and the info given on here is excellent. Making it easy to figure out what I need. Thanks!
Great video.
Another option I've found is to purchase a few feet of adhesive backed closed cell foam or rubber weather striping. They can be found in rolls roughly 1"-2" wide, 1/8" - 1/2" thick, and as long as you need. I used a piece 1 1/4" wide, 1/4" thick, and cut it 2 3/4" long and it works perfect. After cutting it to the size you need, you simply stick the adhesive side to the helmet shell through the gap in the shroud. You can still easily remove the mount, but the cushion of the foam presses outward on the mount, taking up the slack of the shroud to mount interface. This solution is also weatherproof, which is nice.
Just a thought.
This guy needs more subscribers, allways great information, and content!
I’m a machinist and use shim stock all the time. Why the fuck I never thought of shimming my mount to help with rattle is fucking beyond me 😂
Good tip. I had a lot of play with my team Wendy / g24 setup and used this trick to reduce the slop.
What about issues with TSA and going through security, ever any hangups there or do you let it just roll on through the x-ray?
Nope, they barely even notice them. Most of the time they don't even know what they are
i fixed my rattle with the foam off a pelican case about two slits of foam and put it between the wilcox g24 mount and the shroud and my pvs14 doesn't rattle anymore.
This explains the tape that was on my issued mount... Love the tips and tricks!
Would you do the same between a J-arm, and the nods? (and i'm talking for us poor army dudes with the pvs-14's and mil spec j-arm).
You can try but the rubber band around the 14 and arm does a better job
Thanks for this. This bothers me when I'm not doing anything but I never really notice it once I start doing stuff. I'll be doing this.
How do you store your NODs on your kit when not in use so they don't get knocked around too much?
I put them in a pack
Maybe find someone to make a medium GP pouch like the crye or spiritus with some padding in it or buy one and add your own padding.
I used some leukotape on the back of my g24, zero rattle now. I have a teamwendy ballistic, not sure why mine had so much rattle. Also I still have some left to right rattle but it's in the mount itself, not related to where the mount meets the shroud. Remaining rattle is in the l24 itself
Oh man its gotta suck to spend $500 on a wilcox and have to shim it.
Its also gotta suck paying $500 on a wilcox when your taxes have been buying them for years.
so true
Ping ping sells em for cheap
yeah i've been running a fauxcox for like a year without issue.@@Token_Black_Guy
@@forestnfren8146 where'd u get them from? what manufacturer?
@@pounc3r782 sotac sell decent knock off wilcox for like 1/8 the price of a real one. I've got 2, one on my own helmet and one on a loaner helmet no issues with either.
John, I'm looking for some guidance around helmet mounted lights. Would you suggest a modlite IR head or a SF KM1/2 for that white/IR switch capability?
(Opinion) By no means am I high-speed anything but I learned this trick in film school when these helmets first came out, we had to mount steadicams to them, so there could be no vibration. Get utility strength Velcro, put female on the helmet male on the nvg, you can stack double sided tape as needed to eat the extra space as a shim if needed. Just an opinion I do it now, with my atn gen 2's (poverty).
Little bit of duct tape haha love it I have just bought PVS-31's and got issued the new IHPS and my Rhino II is wobbly as hell.
I have tried two Rhino mounts both of them rattle like hell.
@@sbhjackson5931 On the IHPS helmet? The shroud probably works better with Wilcox. I will have to try my friend who has one in my unit. The shroud Is labeled as a ceradyne product.
Real question is why the nvg mount itself is rattling
No wobble at all with my rino
So basically the way to “fix” wobble, spend $800 for a real helmet, $400 for a Wilcox shroud and $500 for the Wilcox mount, got it lol. (I’m still using my gen 3 pvs7 with a plastic bump helmet I bought used), like the guy said in the comment about me, poverty, and it sucks.
You can use the rubber band around the unit and mount to help with the raddle but pvs7 is rough
omg why youtube tutorial videos are always able to make a simple idea into 5 minutes of talking.... watch through videos like this is such pain and waste of time
Upping video speed is my solution
@@NerosShadow This. For last couple years I watch this kind of videos with 1,5x speed
i think it has something to do with monetization. You have to be over a certain length. Maybe its not this way anymore
Rattle-y as fuck hahahahahaha
Behooooooooooooooooovs youuuuuuuuu