When you move the metal in raising you are not thinning the metal. It would thin down if I kept it in the flat state. When the cup is finished it is still 18 gauge, properly done the untrimmed edge would be closer to 17 or 16. I think it's a miracle, raising like this moves the metal up from the flat gathering from the sides as the diameter contracts and the cup rises.
You can get the sides perfectly vertical if you are trying to make a cylinder shape, A beaker typically has a wide brim over a smaller base with straight sides. See the next video in this series. It's a matter of holding the work piece at the correct angle and making enough rounds to get the shape you want. I can make this beaker, now, reliably in 5 rounds. This cup took about 7. Practice and experimentation teach you about aggressive and practical raising.
great videos! thanks a million. Any chance you would be willing to put up a video showing how to do a rounded vessel i.e. showing how to hammer the piece back in on itself?
Great video series, thanks! I'm looking to make a raised oval vessel sink for a repurposed vanity project I'm working on. I'm wondering what gauge copper sheet would be best to use and also if you might have any tips to help guide me in the process. Thanks in advance
if you are making an actual sink to use like in your bathroom I should think you would need 16 gauge copper. I have never made something that large and I suspect that it would have to be sunk into a carved depression on a stump using a fairly heavy hammer. You will also need a large torch to anneal. I think there are some videos of Mexicans making large bowl shaped vessels here on RUclips, Watching them may give you some ideas of how to attack such a large project, sorry I can't be of more help. Good luck with your vanity project. ( BTW I no longer use the pipe to raise on I have proper stakes but nothing large enough for a sink. There are also some videos of a Japanese metalsmith who makes large vessels of fine silver. He has enormous stakes but the videos are more about the finished artworks rather than techniques. Also look up David Huang, he makes enormous vessels and there are videos of some projects as they 'grow'.)
@@Ceropegia thank you for being open to offering other artists as resources for such a huge undertaking. This useable sink is my first raising project ever and though excited am feeling nervous as well. I'm in research stage and have none of the essential stakes or stumps at this point. And I appreciate your skill and am thankful for your great help.
Here's a tip. Light your oxy/acetylene torch but use only the acetylene. As you know a black soot will come off while there is no oxygen burning. Stroke the vessel with the flame to cover it in this soot. Now when you strike you see exactly where the blows have landed because the soot will have been removed. Much easier than trying to follow a reflection and a proven technique in metal finishing. (In the UK anyway)
Thanks for the tip, I have trained myself to be aware of reflections and watch the strike marks. Don't think I would like dealing with the soot on my hands... I imagine it comes off... Thanks for watching.
How long have you been working at this trade and what would your level of experience/expertice be if that makes sense. Very nice work in my non experienced opinion and defenitely very good instruction. Thanks
There is no relation . The pipe is near the diameter of a regular T-stake which is about 1.25 inches. If you are going to try to raise on a pipe, get one with the thickest walls you can find. When I finally got a T-stake, I could feel the difference of using a solid piece of iron rather than the pipe. You can still raise on a pipe but if you can get a solid piece of iron the same diameter, go that way. Scrap metal dealers sometimes have useful scraps. Thanks for watching.
I noticed that it flared out is it possible to get the sides near perfectly vertical rather than flared out or would you have to raise it in a completely different way to achieve this?
Sage, I've been following this process and at this point in my progress finding pin holes in a few places. If I keep going, they just grow, as expected. I started with 18g copper, and a good well prepared raising hammer and have been anealing at the end of each round. I believe I have been hitting to hard and deforming the metal too much (no being patient enough). I didn't think I was working it that much harder than you but clearly I am. I have done quite a bit of blacksmithing and sheet metal work, and lately a lot of anticlastic raising but never anything that takes this much time. I'm going to start over tomorrow and back off on the force. Is there anything else i should consider? Thank you very much for these excellent, well though out, videos! I have a good book on the subject but seeing somebody actual do it makes all the difference.
When you move the metal in raising you are not thinning the metal. It would thin down if I kept it in the flat state. When the cup is finished it is still 18 gauge, properly done the untrimmed edge would be closer to 17 or 16. I think it's a miracle, raising like this moves the metal up from the flat gathering from the sides as the diameter contracts and the cup rises.
You can get the sides perfectly vertical if you are trying to make a cylinder shape, A beaker typically has a wide brim over a smaller base with straight sides. See the next video in this series. It's a matter of holding the work piece at the correct angle and making enough rounds to get the shape you want. I can make this beaker, now, reliably in 5 rounds. This cup took about 7. Practice and experimentation teach you about aggressive and practical raising.
great videos! thanks a million. Any chance you would be willing to put up a video showing how to do a rounded vessel i.e. showing how to hammer the piece back in on itself?
Great video series, thanks! I'm looking to make a raised oval vessel sink for a repurposed vanity project I'm working on. I'm wondering what gauge copper sheet would be best to use and also if you might have any tips to help guide me in the process. Thanks in advance
if you are making an actual sink to use like in your bathroom I should think you would need 16 gauge copper. I have never made something that large and I suspect that it would have to be sunk into a carved depression on a stump using a fairly heavy hammer. You will also need a large torch to anneal. I think there are some videos of Mexicans making large bowl shaped vessels here on RUclips, Watching them may give you some ideas of how to attack such a large project, sorry I can't be of more help. Good luck with your vanity project. ( BTW I no longer use the pipe to raise on I have proper stakes but nothing large enough for a sink. There are also some videos of a Japanese metalsmith who makes large vessels of fine silver. He has enormous stakes but the videos are more about the finished artworks rather than techniques. Also look up David Huang, he makes enormous vessels and there are videos of some projects as they 'grow'.)
@@Ceropegia thank you for being open to offering other artists as resources for such a huge undertaking. This useable sink is my first raising project ever and though excited am feeling nervous as well. I'm in research stage and have none of the essential stakes or stumps at this point. And I appreciate your skill and am thankful for your great help.
Here's a tip. Light your oxy/acetylene torch but use only the acetylene. As you know a black soot will come off while there is no oxygen burning. Stroke the vessel with the flame to cover it in this soot. Now when you strike you see exactly where the blows have landed because the soot will have been removed. Much easier than trying to follow a reflection and a proven technique in metal finishing. (In the UK anyway)
Thanks for the tip, I have trained myself to be aware of reflections and watch the strike marks. Don't think I would like dealing with the soot on my hands... I imagine it comes off...
Thanks for watching.
How long have you been working at this trade and what would your level of experience/expertice be if that makes sense. Very nice work in my non experienced opinion and defenitely very good instruction. Thanks
What is the relationship of the pipe diameter to the cup diameter?
There is no relation . The pipe is near the diameter of a regular T-stake which is about 1.25 inches. If you are going to try to raise on a pipe, get one with the thickest walls you can find. When I finally got a T-stake, I could feel the difference of using a solid piece of iron rather than the pipe. You can still raise on a pipe but if you can get a solid piece of iron the same diameter, go that way. Scrap metal dealers sometimes have useful scraps. Thanks for watching.
I noticed that it flared out is it possible to get the sides near perfectly vertical rather than flared out or would you have to raise it in a completely different way to achieve this?
Sage, I've been following this process and at this point in my progress finding pin holes in a few places. If I keep going, they just grow, as expected. I started with 18g copper, and a good well prepared raising hammer and have been anealing at the end of each round. I believe I have been hitting to hard and deforming the metal too much (no being patient enough). I didn't think I was working it that much harder than you but clearly I am. I have done quite a bit of blacksmithing and sheet metal work, and lately a lot of anticlastic raising but never anything that takes this much time. I'm going to start over tomorrow and back off on the force. Is there anything else i should consider?
Thank you very much for these excellent, well though out, videos! I have a good book on the subject but seeing somebody actual do it makes all the difference.
A very late [questionable] answer, but-
Lower the force, raise the rotations.
i make praying wheel and lots of other things and i think you havent got someone to teach you
Do you dream of that tap-tap, tap-tap, tap-tap rhythm when you sleep? I know that I will after watching your very interesting video.
i work at handicraft factory
if you wanna learn then you can text me