It's worth opening up the iron to check the wiring before buying a new plug. My newly purchased iron had a grounded Chinese Type I plug molded to a cable embossed with "3x 0.75mm" and safety ratings. That should be a earthed 6 amp cable. When I opened the case I found that the cable had only two conductors, and they appeared to be 0.50mm or less. The control circuit is a basic thermistor feedback type based on a LM358 dual opamp controlling a BTA06 triac. I measured a heating element resistance of 337 ohms. That's 150 watts at 240V, but less than 40W at 120V. You really want to run it at 240V, preferably using an isolation transformer if you keep the original ungrounded power cord. Edit: I measured the warm-up cycle with the iron set to the highest dial temperature. At 237V the iron took 1:15 from 30C to 100C, and 2:54 from 30C to 200C. Even discounting heat loss from convection, which is going to be significant, it would take about 12 minutes to heat up at 120V. I was measuring using four probes, two sensors (thermistors) with multimeters, and two K-type thermocouples. They were taped around the hot face using a single layer of Kapton tape. They all had very close readings, so the measurement point was not much of a variable.
Impressive work. Modern hyperfast heat regulation should do wonders in building packrafts. I am talking about PID controllers. Yeah, a PID controller should make it work much much more reliable
I added heat paste to the heating element to make it transfer better to the iron body. It makes a substantial improvement to the heating speed and recovery. I would go so far as to call it a necessary modification. I am also considering changing the element and/or modifying the circuit board to better match the 115V here in Canada.
I was planning on getting a Hanger 9 or Clover Mini iron II as my first iron. I have seen you use both of them. Would you chose one over the other or should I get something else instead? I’m thinking about trying to make a wing surf wing. If you haven’t seen them they are kinda like a kite boarding kite except you hold it in your hand. I’ll be ordering some fabric from you soon. 👍
It's worth opening up the iron to check the wiring before buying a new plug.
My newly purchased iron had a grounded Chinese Type I plug molded to a cable embossed with "3x 0.75mm" and safety ratings. That should be a earthed 6 amp cable. When I opened the case I found that the cable had only two conductors, and they appeared to be 0.50mm or less.
The control circuit is a basic thermistor feedback type based on a LM358 dual opamp controlling a BTA06 triac.
I measured a heating element resistance of 337 ohms. That's 150 watts at 240V, but less than 40W at 120V. You really want to run it at 240V, preferably using an isolation transformer if you keep the original ungrounded power cord.
Edit: I measured the warm-up cycle with the iron set to the highest dial temperature. At 237V the iron took 1:15 from 30C to 100C, and 2:54 from 30C to 200C.
Even discounting heat loss from convection, which is going to be significant, it would take about 12 minutes to heat up at 120V.
I was measuring using four probes, two sensors (thermistors) with multimeters, and two K-type thermocouples. They were taped around the hot face using a single layer of Kapton tape. They all had very close readings, so the measurement point was not much of a variable.
In Germany with 230-240 V the temperaturesetting is between 120 and 150°C. Depending on the thickness of the Material.
Impressive work. Modern hyperfast heat regulation should do wonders in building packrafts. I am talking about PID controllers. Yeah, a PID controller should make it work much much more reliable
Thanks!
I added heat paste to the heating element to make it transfer better to the iron body. It makes a substantial improvement to the heating speed and recovery. I would go so far as to call it a necessary modification. I am also considering changing the element and/or modifying the circuit board to better match the 115V here in Canada.
Cool! Great tip. Thanks!
I was planning on getting a Hanger 9 or Clover Mini iron II as my first iron. I have seen you use both of them. Would you chose one over the other or should I get something else instead?
I’m thinking about trying to make a wing surf wing. If you haven’t seen them they are kinda like a kite boarding kite except you hold it in your hand. I’ll be ordering some fabric from you soon. 👍
I haven’t tried the Hangar 9 iron, but I’d probably get that one if it’s not too narrow for your design. Cheers!
If you unscrew plug, inside diogram
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