The 100 is a 2UZ right? Yes a lot more moving parts in a dual overhead cam V8, but totally doable with good organization and attention to detail! Thanks for watching!
Hi, man, thank you very much for your excellent videos on 1fz! I am going to rebuild my motor as well and this is going to be my first experience. So when I by a pure chance met your channel on RUclips, it is real gift for me. Thanks again, looking forward for the following assembly videos. Cheers
Fantastic video as always. Great work on all the attention to detail! And your editing/filming has come a long way. You're right on track with the larger channels as far as video quality goes. Very engaging and visually appealing overall. Great work!
Picked up a brand new factory short block for my 199780 series last year. Getting ready to put her together with a new head. Are you happy with your engine block paint? I'm on the fence if I should paint it or not
So far it has really held up great and I don't see any flaking, peeling, or chipping at all. Also I don't know if I say it in this video but I used basic Rustoleum paint, brushed it on. Check out the video from Uncle Tony's Garage. I used his exact method.
@@RM_Garage awesome thanks! Brushing it on is a brilliant idea, I'll look up tony. Bet Idaho is awesome, can't wait to move to Idaho or Montana Just need Idaho power or other utility to open some spots and I would leave Cali's largest utility. Thanks again, digging your content!
@@BillyGoatsAdventures Idaho Power isn't hiring? I will say my experience with them has been amazing since being here, and the power bills here are INSANELY cheaper than CA.
@@RM_Garage I interviewed with them a couple times years ago but it wasn't a fit at the time, but now we're ready. All our friends and family in the treasure valley have nothing but amazing things to say about Idaho power. Unlike the company I currently work for, I would be proud to work for Idaho power. The new shop looks great. Our house and property we bought back in 2011 had a 1400 square foot metal building on it and I'm very thankful all the vehicles I've been able to repair as well as restoring and building my '98 Tacoma and '97 Land Cruiser. The space really makes a difference.
Great video, thanks. Which adjustable piston ring compressor tool did you get from Summit? Looks like there are several part numbers. I was thinking the 4.00"-4.09" SME-90A4000 but wasn't sure if that was correct.
Thanks for your videos and IG posts. Machine shop just told me they want to machine my 1FZ ‘20 over.’ Are there toyota pistons that fit this setup? Just the cylinders not the crank.
Yeah, Toyota sells a .020” over piston. You’re going to want to look at a parts catalog on Toyotas website and find the oversized piston. I’m running DNJs in this as a piston isn’t rocket science anymore and I couldn’t justify $800-$1000 for a set of OEM pistons. Safety, DNJ, ITM, etc all machine shops use them in rebuild and they have nothing bad to say about them. Even LCE uses Safety Auto pistons in their rebuild kits. I understand if you want to stay OEM though. Just depends what’s in the budget.
@@azbeeson I’ve never had a problem with aftermarket bearings and in this motor I’m using ACL rod bearings and Clevite main bearings. If King bearings weren’t back ordered for months I would’ve ran those - you’d be hard pressed to find a better bearing. Nothing wrong with aftermarket rings. Hastings is great for example.
great videos mate, i really appreciate it ! I just got a question that i filed 1st and 2nd rings for specification of the gap, but what about oil expander ring? it is also over sized than bore like others, but i couldnt find infos for this. would it shrink itself(since it is shaped like spring) when piston is installed into the cylinder? i also filed upper and lower groove ring for the gap clearance.
A real doubt: why are you reusing elastic screws? Like, everywhere online and offline they say "once a elastic screw is torqued, if you loose you have to replace". Are Toyota ones different?
@RM Garage You seem to know the 80 series... since I sold my 85 4runner I am now looking for a 1993-1997 land cruiser. Knowing what you know now what year would you recommend? Thanks Keep up the cool content.
The oil in the liners is also because you don’t want the engine when started turn dry out with no pre lubrication on liners may scratch them, the firsts turns that the crankshaft does are vital and needs oil its what we call dry start if there ain’t no oil on these and that’s scary but the rest you did good
I want to see a 1fz blocked built for higher comp ratio for N/A to increase fuel economy power efficiency and higher rpm mayb fire ring the head for better clamping force some port matching cams valves etc. from factory these things are rubish motors chew fuel get like 400-450ks per 130L of petrol
Honestly I’ve built several motors and never once used OEM rings or pistons and never had an issue. Machine shops use aftermarket pistons and rings all the time with no issues. I know these 80 series have a strong OEM part loyalist crowd, but I believe it will be totally fine running these rings. Toyota more than likely uses a 3rd party to manufacture their rings as well, like NPR. Thank you for watching!!
New short block from Toyota is like $4k, they come from Japan, and are sparsely located across random Toyota warehouses across the country if you’re lucky. I’m not 4k into it. Give me a second I’ll grab you the exact amount
About $1300 ($1278) into the bottom end here. I think when all is said and done I’ll be about $3000 into the rebuild. So $3500 because you always estimate low and you end up getting nickel and dimed to death. Also it’s not a daily driver and I think this is fun! Thank you for watching!!
Trust me my mind constantly goes “you could’ve done an LS swap” and I probably could’ve. And I might…in the future 😂 it’s all fun and games for me. Just having a good time with it.
@@RM_Garage Okay fair enough. And I guess once you're done you might as well have a brand new motor anyway. I bought a lx450 about 2 weeks ago and I'm pretty sure the head gasket blew a couple days ago. I'm trying to figure out what to do now. So 1300 in the bottom end. What did you do with the head? I'll be watching the rest of your videos btw. Just curious what you did for now
@@brandonblackwell8932 since the head is a 24 valve they tend to be expensive to get resurfaced and have a valve job done. I’m looking at $600 for a 5 angle valve job, resurface, and new valve seals installed. None of that is 100% necessary if you’re just replacing a head gasket, but recommended since you’re already there. I’d wager most people hit the mating surfaces with scotchbrite and put it back together.
Thank you for letting us in this level of detail, great work!
It’s awesome to see the inner workings of my same vehicles engine. Thanks for the detailed videos. Keep up the good work!
No problem!! Thanks!
This is awesome! Great job. As a current 100 series owner this engine is so simple lol
The 100 is a 2UZ right? Yes a lot more moving parts in a dual overhead cam V8, but totally doable with good organization and attention to detail! Thanks for watching!
@@RM_Garage yes the venerable 2UZ. Mine has 350k miles and it shows no sign of stopping.... its nuts 😳
Hi, man, thank you very much for your excellent videos on 1fz! I am going to rebuild my motor as well and this is going to be my first experience. So when I by a pure chance met your channel on RUclips, it is real gift for me. Thanks again, looking forward for the following assembly videos. Cheers
Fantastic video as always. Great work on all the attention to detail! And your editing/filming has come a long way. You're right on track with the larger channels as far as video quality goes. Very engaging and visually appealing overall. Great work!
Wow, thanks!
Your level of OCD is outstanding, @RM Garage. I salute you, sir. 😁
Such an excellent video, a really great educational experience. A must for any series 80 LC owner.
Bro very interesting for me to get the right path to get a chance to do this job, thanks
@@JamesMax-fq1gn awesome!
Excellent video - great rundown of the 1FZ. Subbed for future updates!
Thank you!
Editing on this one is top notch. That cleaner is pretty cool too 😉
☺️
Ricky you made my day.now i will fix my problem.thumbs up waiting for chart
Great video, please dont forget the rest becuase this video is my reference👍
Final video coming soon for this rebuild. Finished up the motor tonight.
Excellent and highly detailed machining👍👍
Nice rebuild man.
Keep it up man, loving all the videos!!!
Will do! Thanks!
7 main bearings, Toyota strong!!
YUP!
Great video. My sons and I will be diving into a 93 right side drive 1HDT complete rebuild.
Picked up a brand new factory short block for my 199780 series last year. Getting ready to put her together with a new head. Are you happy with your engine block paint? I'm on the fence if I should paint it or not
So far it has really held up great and I don't see any flaking, peeling, or chipping at all. Also I don't know if I say it in this video but I used basic Rustoleum paint, brushed it on. Check out the video from Uncle Tony's Garage. I used his exact method.
@@RM_Garage awesome thanks! Brushing it on is a brilliant idea, I'll look up tony.
Bet Idaho is awesome, can't wait to move to Idaho or Montana Just need Idaho power or other utility to open some spots and I would leave Cali's largest utility.
Thanks again, digging your content!
@@BillyGoatsAdventures Idaho Power isn't hiring? I will say my experience with them has been amazing since being here, and the power bills here are INSANELY cheaper than CA.
@@RM_Garage I interviewed with them a couple times years ago but it wasn't a fit at the time, but now we're ready. All our friends and family in the treasure valley have nothing but amazing things to say about Idaho power.
Unlike the company I currently work for, I would be proud to work for Idaho power.
The new shop looks great. Our house and property we bought back in 2011 had a 1400 square foot metal building on it and I'm very thankful all the vehicles I've been able to repair as well as restoring and building my '98 Tacoma and '97 Land Cruiser. The space really makes a difference.
Great video! I'm about to start rebuilding my 1fz within the next month and will definitely use this as a reference.
Thank you very much for the very helpful video ,if you share the chart of all bolts tightening torque,it will be highly appreciated.
Great work. 👍.... Thank you for sharing.
With the .020 over bore, did you notice any "seat of the pants" power improvements? What about the MPGs, was that affected?
I really can't tell, but I hardly drove the cruiser beforehand.
Looking great Ricky!!
Thanks Mike!
Excelente trajano Amigo saludos aprendo mucho con usted
Great video! What did you use to reference / guide for the assembly?
I used the Toyota factory service manual. It’s super detailed.
Great work!
Thank you!!
Great video, thanks. Which adjustable piston ring compressor tool did you get from Summit? Looks like there are several part numbers. I was thinking the 4.00"-4.09" SME-90A4000 but wasn't sure if that was correct.
SME-90A3900
Hello! ft-lb is the correct denomination. Instructive video. Greetings from Portugal.
Very good video good job bud,, music is slightly annoying tho.
Awesome video bro
Thanks!
Thanks for your videos and IG posts. Machine shop just told me they want to machine my 1FZ ‘20 over.’ Are there toyota pistons that fit this setup? Just the cylinders not the crank.
Yeah, Toyota sells a .020” over piston. You’re going to want to look at a parts catalog on Toyotas website and find the oversized piston. I’m running DNJs in this as a piston isn’t rocket science anymore and I couldn’t justify $800-$1000 for a set of OEM pistons.
Safety, DNJ, ITM, etc all machine shops use them in rebuild and they have nothing bad to say about them. Even LCE uses Safety Auto pistons in their rebuild kits. I understand if you want to stay OEM though. Just depends what’s in the budget.
.020 over may be listed as 0.50mm in a Toyota parts catalog by the way.
@@RM_Garage Thank you. I run oem when I can but I’d be fine with quality after market pistons and oem rings and bearings. What do you think?
@@azbeeson I’ve never had a problem with aftermarket bearings and in this motor I’m using ACL rod bearings and Clevite main bearings. If King bearings weren’t back ordered for months I would’ve ran those - you’d be hard pressed to find a better bearing.
Nothing wrong with aftermarket rings. Hastings is great for example.
Tekton FTW!!
great videos mate, i really appreciate it ! I just got a question that i filed 1st and 2nd rings for specification of the gap, but what about oil expander ring? it is also over sized than bore like others, but i couldnt find infos for this. would it shrink itself(since it is shaped like spring) when piston is installed into the cylinder? i also filed upper and lower groove ring for the gap clearance.
I think that im in love whith you, love this dude, from Venezuela 🇻🇪
Really interested job thankyou
Did you use a crank pulley tool to remove the crank bolt?
In a previous video I used the engine to loosen it. Watch the one where I pull the motor out. I will need a tool to reinstall it though.
Good job iam very interested in watching your vedio,s
A real doubt: why are you reusing elastic screws? Like, everywhere online and offline they say "once a elastic screw is torqued, if you loose you have to replace". Are Toyota ones different?
Ahhh, should ave looked here first, explains it all.
Good 👍
Great video
Thanks!
@RM Garage
You seem to know the 80 series... since I sold my 85 4runner I am now looking for a 1993-1997 land cruiser. Knowing what you know now what year would you recommend? Thanks
Keep up the cool content.
95-97 if you want OBD2 and potentially turbo it in the future. 93-94 otherwise. 91-92 have the 3FE.
Very interesting
Is that the old piston or a new one?
New
@@RM_Garage thank you for replying
You need to put oil on the liners when installing the pistons so you don’t struggle or scratch the liners when installing
Everything else you did a pretty good work my friend
The oil in the liners is also because you don’t want the engine when started turn dry out with no pre lubrication on liners may scratch them, the firsts turns that the crankshaft does are vital and needs oil its what we call dry start if there ain’t no oil on these and that’s scary but the rest you did good
I don’t know if by liners you mean cylinder walls but they were lubricated with ATF along with the piston ring compressor itself
M.loving it tho
I want to see a 1fz blocked built for higher comp ratio for N/A to increase fuel economy power efficiency and higher rpm mayb fire ring the head for better clamping force some port matching cams valves etc. from factory these things are rubish motors chew fuel get like 400-450ks per 130L of petrol
Why not oem pistons rings?
Honestly I’ve built several motors and never once used OEM rings or pistons and never had an issue. Machine shops use aftermarket pistons and rings all the time with no issues. I know these 80 series have a strong OEM part loyalist crowd, but I believe it will be totally fine running these rings.
Toyota more than likely uses a 3rd party to manufacture their rings as well, like NPR.
Thank you for watching!!
The replacement head bolts, head gasket, and rods are all OEM.
i would swap a toyota 1FZ-FE or a Nissan
TB48DE for an AMC 4.0 inline 6 in a jeep Cherokee without hesitation!!
Or a 5.3 LS platform. Possibilities in the future for sure.
I'm curious why not go with a new motor at this point? It seems like so much money it new parts at this point.
New short block from Toyota is like $4k, they come from Japan, and are sparsely located across random Toyota warehouses across the country if you’re lucky. I’m not 4k into it. Give me a second I’ll grab you the exact amount
About $1300 ($1278) into the bottom end here. I think when all is said and done I’ll be about $3000 into the rebuild. So $3500 because you always estimate low and you end up getting nickel and dimed to death.
Also it’s not a daily driver and I think this is fun! Thank you for watching!!
Trust me my mind constantly goes “you could’ve done an LS swap” and I probably could’ve. And I might…in the future 😂 it’s all fun and games for me. Just having a good time with it.
@@RM_Garage Okay fair enough. And I guess once you're done you might as well have a brand new motor anyway. I bought a lx450 about 2 weeks ago and I'm pretty sure the head gasket blew a couple days ago. I'm trying to figure out what to do now. So 1300 in the bottom end. What did you do with the head? I'll be watching the rest of your videos btw. Just curious what you did for now
@@brandonblackwell8932 since the head is a 24 valve they tend to be expensive to get resurfaced and have a valve job done. I’m looking at $600 for a 5 angle valve job, resurface, and new valve seals installed.
None of that is 100% necessary if you’re just replacing a head gasket, but recommended since you’re already there. I’d wager most people hit the mating surfaces with scotchbrite and put it back together.
The rest of this montage
البساتم مقلوبة
🇵🇬🇵🇬🇵🇬,.,.
Do the rings fit properly? I like to wear the rings in before I install them.