Amazing that you did this in tinkercad. As a professional cad operator I am consistently impressed with what people (including yourself) are doing in tinkercad. Great idea for vase mode. I see many possibility for this method. Thank you for sharing your ideas!
thats the thing.... there don't even have to be any gaps if you set the model up correctly in cad. part of the coolness here is he did it in tinkercad.... and made it easy to understand for people having the same thoughts as you and i.... as long as you construct whatever thing with the understanding of the continuous spiral/linear tool motion in mind such that your gap or cut as he says is essentially zero then there don't even have to be physical gaps on the finished product, the small amount of overlap or deliberate overextrusion seals them..... you could actually create something akin to a patterned infill throughout the entire model this way and yet have it printed in one continuous line. now... imagine with me that we all had state of the art printers such as new rat rig voron etc... or industrial machines. youve seen how fast they go, especially with high flow. think how fast things could be printed when the design and slicing made it one continuous tool path. now design the model with as many curves or rounded edges as is possible... so the tool head doesn't have to change directions too abruptly.... even faster.
When you have an object selected press T this makes the selected object transparent so you can see through it. Another tip is press D to drop an object onto your workplain. Everyone like this so others can see this useful tip...
Thank you so much for this! I go between Tinkercad, 3d builder and some fusion 360 and always find myself back in Tinkercad working on models. A really slick way of getting more out of vase mode.
I hardly ever use TinkerCad as I have trouble wrapping my head around it. I love watching tutorials on it as really shows a different way of thinking about design. Thanks for sharing Chris!
thanks very much - really good to watch the whole video and pick up on some of your advanced tinkercad chops. Best video on vase mode I've come across. Now I can reconstruct my trashcan and make it stiffer.
wow, this is brilliant! I've been messing around with vasemode and this was very helpful. It was an awesome tutorial, but I'd love to see how to replicate this in SolidWorks as well.
This is an amazing video. I'm in my first week of 3d printing and I saw a need for something like this and your tutorial is the first one I found. You have my sub and a huge thumbs up for explaining this. My first print using this technique is 1/4 of the way through and printing perfectly as of right now. I had designed and printed a funnel for a specific purpose. I printed it in vase mode and it worked perfectly but after the print cooled it was just a bit too flimsy and I could hear cracking if it was flexed too much. I think this will add some much needed rigidity and still print quickly with a seam much more tidy looking than a normal z seam. Thanks for making a video clear enough for a complete noob to follow along and replicate!
@@nerys71 I will give that a shot. The print completed and it is VERY strong compared to the original. It worked out perfectly! My printer is the 1st version of the CR-10. I'm really enjoying it! Can't believe how well it prints. Bought it as a referb from Comgrow, works perfectly after getting the bed leveled correctly. Do you have any idea about what size nozzle I could get away with using and still get good looking prints with the stock CR10?
@@TheFishingHobby Good LOOKING is very very subjective. I personally like the look of fat layers :-) you should be able to go up to a 1mm nozzle with the stock hot end but you WILL have to slow down. 30mm/s (but you make up for it with volume!! so you still print 3 times faster)
i think you did some good stuff here. you've stated clearly what i've been trying to achieve with certain things. i think its funny how "double wall vase mode" doesn't exist and instead we get a vertical z seam, yet when you set the model up so the path follows the contour, and the wall thickness of that contour is the thickness of 2 lines of extrusion (if thats how you want to set it up... or as you have done)... that this works quite well and you remove the z seam... it prints faster... and it likely becomes stronger. and yet nobody seems to talk about this.
I agree that it's something that's not discussed often. I'm looking into it now because I have a need for it. But I still haven't figured out how to make anything with a top in Cura or Bambu Studio. His cube doesn't slice with a top there.
Thankyou, this tutorial was great! I just learned about this technique a couple days ago, but there was no explanation on how to pull it off and this showed the fundamentals well. Vase mode seemed criminally underutilized. Hopefully slicers will find a way to automate this. It doesn't seem like it should be that hard.
Sso glad I found your video! I love that you can do this in Tinkercad too, easy peasy vase mode hack for all experienced levels of users. Have you all discovered anything newer/cooler? I can't imagine. Thanks again for sharing this! I love how open sourced our community is!
I would love to see how to get top solid infill when using vasemode in Prusa Slicer, got any experience with that? Also you should make a +- 10 minute video on this subject, your knowledge on this subject is really valuable, im sure more people would want to know about these tricks! Thanks !
Hmm... curious to see this done on a figurine (or other detailed organic shape), using the shell modifier in blender to shrink them down and create the hollow and go from there, but I hardly print any such things, so I won't try it anytime soon. Theoretically, it should be a simple process, as even the inner reinforcing ribs could be made by using the boolean operators to slice up the inner shell with a basic slicing object (one cube duplicated by the array modifier into as many slices as needed). Edit: this is assuming that blender's shell modifier works as intended, accurately and reliably... which might be a bit of a stretch. Oh, and you'd have to use some sort of cleanup or remesh operation to deal with the generated overlapping faces. Extra steps, but still plausible given that the software does so much heavy lifting. Or just bring it into volumentric-style software to create the shell and so forth. That would be much more likely to work. Of course, it wouldn't work on everything.
vase mode rules still apply IE the part has to be normal vase mode compatible to use this mode as well which will eliminate most figurines since their shapes violate vase mode rules. IE it has to be possible to slice the entire path without retraction or non print movement and seamlessly lead into the next layer with the same rule. this means no negative angles and no islands (such as a separate torso and arm for example) which would remove most figurines from compatibility. This is basically a way to made more rigid stronger lightweight parts but still in vase mode.
4 года назад
If at 16:50 you were talking about shrinking/growing a by a set percentage, I do it by removing the ruler from the work plane (obligatory) then shift key scaling like the kind you're explaining in that part of the video by some nominal amount. Afterwards, click into one of the dimensions and type xx% (you can also type in a fixed amount in the axis of interest) and everything should scale by proportion. I haven't tried to see if this would work on just a single axis. Thanks for this idea, I really love it! Vase mode for life!
@@nerys71 Yes! I use it often since I learned it recently. If you use R + Esc that's a nice quick way to get rid of the ruler, as sometimes (at least for me) the ruler gets unruly and won't leave the work plane when you try to click the X to dismiss it. For the nose cone: did you try using any of the shape generators for high res versions of the sphere, cylinder or parabola (page 5, 6 and 7 respectively)?
cool! I have an italian desk lamp that had a 50x150mm frosted glass cylinder that fell :/ did a print, looked not to nice. just did it again, vase mode.. 1mm wide line with a 0.4mm nozzle :O worked fine!
Thanks for the video Chris.I will try to apply this in Fusion 360 (Or as I called it at the beginning of learning Confusion 360). I'll let you know how I get on. Good look at the show.
I try my best to reply to comments. one trick is to not reply to an existing message but post a "new" message just like you did !! this means it comes to the top of my comments list and I see the message! Like I did :-) the difference is quite dramatic. I made a very large BT101 nose cone at 100grams !!! substantially lighter but still 75% as strong as a normal printed cone. another advantage is vase mode. which means even a poorly tuned printer should get a nice clean result as there are no retractions! less chance of any sort of failure during print.
I got the idea from a guy who made little Parts drawers using vase mode. When I Saw the slots in his solid models. I got an inkling of what he was doing. So I just started experimenting.
Great tutorial Chris. One thing if I may mention it? When you are showing the drawing you did on the pad to emphasize the tool path, maybe switch screens so you are bigger at that point. I couldn't really see what you were drawing! Not sure if you can switch while recording? Thanks for always teaching me something new!!!
Yes 100% agreed. I realized on playback it was hard to impossible to actually see what I was drawing! need to get my white board out and goto sharpie (not on white board of course) ie thicker marker and yes full screen. I was intentionally avoiding that because I was having issues with OBS (turns out I suspect its a codec issue and not an OBS issue so working that angle now) last thing I needed was to hit a button lose the audio and talk away for 20 minutes. Grrrr the nightmare that would be! :-)
@@nerys71 Yes, losing audio would not be good LOL. Overall, it was great. You have turned me on to Tinkercad, and I think it will now get used as much as I use Fusion 360! It's a whole new way of thinking as far as how to create those custom shapes. One thing I really like about Tinkercad is how simple it is to move the work plane around. Not so simple in Fusion! Thanks again!
Amazing use of the vase/spiralized mode and great vid! However I can't seem to get the same results in CURA, any suggestions on how to get the solid top layers printed? It's just open at the top now.
no. symmetry is not required (though it is easier to edit) only "vase mode compliant" is required. basically no island no extreme under/over hangs. no domes. no "flat" areas. IE anything that can be printed in normal vase mode you can perform this process on. also some things "NOT" vase mode compatible can become vase mode compatible with a few "cuts" in the model. For example the bracket for the taco recycler. not vase mode compatible. put a slice into each "pocket" and a slice through the primary ring and now it is vase mode compatible. IE islands can work if you can CONNECT the island as one continuous surface.
playing around with this technique the new cura 5 slice engine doesn't like this at all (old version not to bad but not as easy as prusaslicer ), it can be forced to work but doesnt print tops and has travel and retraction moves in a spiralised mode (doesnt seem right maybe they will address this at a later date) thanks for the inspiration
This may actually have something to do with a difference in how kira and simplify 3D work Simplify 3D bases everything off the external perimeter of the model so that means I need to leave a space inside the model of two times the nozzle diameter Kira however I believe uses the center of the filament path as the boundary so you only need one times the nozzle diameter This is actually kind of critical because of the way I generate the models for example the actual ribs that go from an inside to an outside wall I make mine infinitely small 0.01 mm effectively it doesn't have to be there it can be zero because the two walls would simply touch however that only works with an external perimeter model Kira uses center of the path which means when I make the wall 0.01 mm apart they're actually overlapping in cura and that will break phase mode although you might be able to compensate with thin wall behavior? So basically my rib to external wall gaps don't have to be as big to slice in cura but all of my ribs themselves are now too small I need to make the gap of that rib one times the nozzle diameter so if I'm using a 1 mm nozzle that Gap needs to be 1 mm because one side is going to have half an hour width and the other side is going to have half an hour with totally 1 mm for a 0.4 mm nozzle you would need a 0.4 mm Gap otherwise vase mode will break
@@nerys71 it kinda works using their 'surface' mode but still does strange things like retractions and going to other side of model for no reason? Anyway Ive found ideamaker works perfectly, it has many of the features of simplify but it's set up for raise 3d printers and getting the correct printer profile is a bit of a chore. Thanks for sharing.
that is absolutely awesome for model airplanes and rockets! dude you should try Fusion! you would have saved many many steps to do that same you did, and watching how out of the box you think designing in Tinkercad, i know you could do some crazy stuff in Fusion =D
vase cube box is really cool, nice tricky! I use multiple process for a long time since s3d implemented it... but didn’t know that it is possible to mix vase mode with other process, thinked always as vase mode for the entire model hehehee By the way I’m making vases with 0.8 and 1mm nozzles... in TPU 95A and petg.. wider walls/nozzles works really great for that
Nerys I tryed “fake nozzle” many times for vases... setting in S3D 1mm using 0.8 nozzles... works great! You can go up to 150% max of nozzle size... just need to take care with total volume to the extruder limit in mm^3 / nozzle size x layer high x speed in mm/s
Nerys True, bridges, even the small ones) and overhangs are really bad with wider nozzles... I also increase the retraction distance to around 5.7mm with 0.8-1mm nozzles in Creality printers that I usually uses 4.9mm with 0.4 nozzles
Brilliant idea! thx 4 sharing. You neeeeeed to learn Fusion. It i sso much more powerful and straight forward. Not that much fumbling around as in tinkercad.
sadly it does not. it actually makes some parts worse (the printing part) unless I am doing it wrong. what ends up happening is the filament path becomes a "zig zag" instead of a curve. since now the path moves in and out from each polygon intersection. IE the part looks smoother (and does print smoother if you duplicate it enough times) but the printer itself throws a fit trying to execute the path. if you use less polygons so it does not throw a fit so much the part is very obvious faceted :-( the "in and out" exaggerates ringing. so the higher poly count LOOKS harsher instead of smoother. I really wish autodesk would just triple the side count for all shapes. especially cylinder (just double would be nice) and Sphere (the big one for me as I use it to make nose cones) now. I wonder if CUra's resolution options (which could chop out some of the zig zag if tuned right) would help to fix that. problem is then I would have to slice with cura since it does not actually change the model.
@@JAYTEEAU Well, if you look at a model closely. For example Make one duplicating shifted half of the width of a face. Doubling the number of faces But now look at the edge. It's no longer a round polygon. Where each one angles by half the previous instead Is zig zags Angle inward angle outward angle Inward angle outward So instead of a finer and finer Ark you get a finer and finer zig zag Do this enough and you do get a nice fine curve But it drives the printer crazy. :-) and on many of them you have to keep slowing down to avoid CPU. Overload.
TEVO Tornado with a firmware problem: First I had the blue screen of death, so I re-uploaded a fresh version of TEVOs firmware. No errors before or after uploading and all categories/options are there. "BUT" open the 'Print from SD Card" and I might get just a blue screen with the word 'Main" on top... close and reopen and it'll show all the files on the card, "BUT" it will not let me scroll down past the first one. Now if you select that file and click it IT REBOOTS! back to the desktop screen every time. OK lets try something else, so I downloaded Marlin V2 patch 4. it came with a ton of errors, (days to figure out and fix). Uploaded/no errors. All categories/options are there. Go into "Print from SD Card" it lets me scroll the list no problem, "BUT" (Are you ready for this?) any file you select it "REBOOTS" back to the desktop screen!!!! So the million dollar question is how can I have two OS's doing the very same thing? Where do I start looking and what am I looking for?
POLY-GONE FIX!! DUPLICATE AND ROTATE FACTOR OF 3, THEN DUPLICATE HOWEVER MANY TIMES THE PROGRAM ALLOWS OR UNTIL SATISFIED. Then you can save it as your own tinker object.
![FNAF vs TF2 - Episode 2 [SFM]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/z5b3V2-VLb0/mqdefault.jpg)
Amazing that you did this in tinkercad. As a professional cad operator I am consistently impressed with what people (including yourself) are doing in tinkercad. Great idea for vase mode. I see many possibility for this method. Thank you for sharing your ideas!
Very helpful, thanks! I was experimenting with multi-wall vases already but never found out how to make my vases stronger with "gaps". Perfect!
thats the thing.... there don't even have to be any gaps if you set the model up correctly in cad. part of the coolness here is he did it in tinkercad.... and made it easy to understand for people having the same thoughts as you and i.... as long as you construct whatever thing with the understanding of the continuous spiral/linear tool motion in mind such that your gap or cut as he says is essentially zero then there don't even have to be physical gaps on the finished product, the small amount of overlap or deliberate overextrusion seals them..... you could actually create something akin to a patterned infill throughout the entire model this way and yet have it printed in one continuous line.
now... imagine with me that we all had state of the art printers such as new rat rig voron etc... or industrial machines. youve seen how fast they go, especially with high flow. think how fast things could be printed when the design and slicing made it one continuous tool path. now design the model with as many curves or rounded edges as is possible... so the tool head doesn't have to change directions too abruptly.... even faster.
Nerys you really change the game with this technique. Thanks a lot! This is exactly I was looking to finalize my studies over high material flow.
you have no idea how this video is helpful. glad it ended up on my feed. thank you
Thanks, You should do more like this, most people just show the screen only. Well done and informative.
When you have an object selected press T this makes the selected object transparent so you can see through it. Another tip is press D to drop an object onto your workplain. Everyone like this so others can see this useful tip...
Also you can nudge height by the snap distance by holding the CTRL key and using the up and down arrows
Thank you so much for this! I go between Tinkercad, 3d builder and some fusion 360 and always find myself back in Tinkercad working on models. A really slick way of getting more out of vase mode.
I hardly ever use TinkerCad as I have trouble wrapping my head around it. I love watching tutorials on it as really shows a different way of thinking about design. Thanks for sharing Chris!
Yup, just learned a shit ton!
thanks very much - really good to watch the whole video and pick up on some of your advanced tinkercad chops. Best video on vase mode I've come across. Now I can reconstruct my trashcan and make it stiffer.
Great tick...many thanks and greetz from Sydney!
I am sure I will be relooking at this as a memory jogger. No fun getting old ;)
Wish a slicer could do this as a infill pattern
I love Tinkercad. It’s underrated in my opinion. The keyboard shortcut for setting parts to flat on ground plane is D btw.
Keep on keeping on Chris.
wow, this is brilliant! I've been messing around with vasemode and this was very helpful. It was an awesome tutorial, but I'd love to see how to replicate this in SolidWorks as well.
I used thickened surface cuts in SW to get the ribs.
This is an amazing video. I'm in my first week of 3d printing and I saw a need for something like this and your tutorial is the first one I found. You have my sub and a huge thumbs up for explaining this. My first print using this technique is 1/4 of the way through and printing perfectly as of right now. I had designed and printed a funnel for a specific purpose. I printed it in vase mode and it worked perfectly but after the print cooled it was just a bit too flimsy and I could hear cracking if it was flexed too much. I think this will add some much needed rigidity and still print quickly with a seam much more tidy looking than a normal z seam. Thanks for making a video clear enough for a complete noob to follow along and replicate!
yes this would work wonders for a funnel. ALSO 0.4mm IS a bit thin for vase mode. increase your flow rate to 125% to 140% for a much stronger print!
@@nerys71 I will give that a shot. The print completed and it is VERY strong compared to the original. It worked out perfectly! My printer is the 1st version of the CR-10. I'm really enjoying it! Can't believe how well it prints. Bought it as a referb from Comgrow, works perfectly after getting the bed leveled correctly. Do you have any idea about what size nozzle I could get away with using and still get good looking prints with the stock CR10?
@@TheFishingHobby Good LOOKING is very very subjective. I personally like the look of fat layers :-) you should be able to go up to a 1mm nozzle with the stock hot end but you WILL have to slow down. 30mm/s (but you make up for it with volume!! so you still print 3 times faster)
i think you did some good stuff here. you've stated clearly what i've been trying to achieve with certain things. i think its funny how "double wall vase mode" doesn't exist and instead we get a vertical z seam, yet when you set the model up so the path follows the contour, and the wall thickness of that contour is the thickness of 2 lines of extrusion (if thats how you want to set it up... or as you have done)... that this works quite well and you remove the z seam... it prints faster... and it likely becomes stronger. and yet nobody seems to talk about this.
I agree that it's something that's not discussed often. I'm looking into it now because I have a need for it. But I still haven't figured out how to make anything with a top in Cura or Bambu Studio. His cube doesn't slice with a top there.
Thankyou, this tutorial was great! I just learned about this technique a couple days ago, but there was no explanation on how to pull it off and this showed the fundamentals well. Vase mode seemed criminally underutilized. Hopefully slicers will find a way to automate this. It doesn't seem like it should be that hard.
dude great video. It took 4 days to wtch in sections so I didnt miss anything. Its a lot of information. thanks, Saludos desde santiago de Chile
Thank you enjoyed this and learned something new
Sso glad I found your video! I love that you can do this in Tinkercad too, easy peasy vase mode hack for all experienced levels of users. Have you all discovered anything newer/cooler? I can't imagine. Thanks again for sharing this! I love how open sourced our community is!
This was an incredibly smart solution !
Very nice!
Dude, this is inspired! I see what you did there. I can't wait to try these out, I'll be rethinking the limitations of spiralized prints!
Thanks a lot for this! It has helped with making PETG prints neater by reducing travel/retractions.
Yes vase mode is especially wonderful for petg. You get that really nice transparent finished for the clear stuff, too.
Very cool. Excellent tutorial! Thanks for sharing.
Excellent video! Thank you very much!
impressive stuff, although i dont have S3d and am wondering if these settings can be wholly recreated in Orca Slicer
Another great video I bought my first rocket this weekend and printed a few now we fly soon
I would love to see how to get top solid infill when using vasemode in Prusa Slicer, got any experience with that?
Also you should make a +- 10 minute video on this subject, your knowledge on this subject is really valuable, im sure more people would want to know about these tricks!
Thanks !
That was a great video, learned a lot!
That's amazing. Thank you!
new to all this but that life size print is just amazing what u can do with a 3d printer
Great video, thanks!
Hmm... curious to see this done on a figurine (or other detailed organic shape), using the shell modifier in blender to shrink them down and create the hollow and go from there, but I hardly print any such things, so I won't try it anytime soon. Theoretically, it should be a simple process, as even the inner reinforcing ribs could be made by using the boolean operators to slice up the inner shell with a basic slicing object (one cube duplicated by the array modifier into as many slices as needed).
Edit: this is assuming that blender's shell modifier works as intended, accurately and reliably... which might be a bit of a stretch. Oh, and you'd have to use some sort of cleanup or remesh operation to deal with the generated overlapping faces. Extra steps, but still plausible given that the software does so much heavy lifting. Or just bring it into volumentric-style software to create the shell and so forth. That would be much more likely to work.
Of course, it wouldn't work on everything.
vase mode rules still apply IE the part has to be normal vase mode compatible to use this mode as well which will eliminate most figurines since their shapes violate vase mode rules.
IE it has to be possible to slice the entire path without retraction or non print movement and seamlessly lead into the next layer with the same rule. this means no negative angles and no islands (such as a separate torso and arm for example) which would remove most figurines from compatibility.
This is basically a way to made more rigid stronger lightweight parts but still in vase mode.
If at 16:50 you were talking about shrinking/growing a by a set percentage, I do it by removing the ruler from the work plane (obligatory) then shift key scaling like the kind you're explaining in that part of the video by some nominal amount. Afterwards, click into one of the dimensions and type xx% (you can also type in a fixed amount in the axis of interest) and everything should scale by proportion. I haven't tried to see if this would work on just a single axis. Thanks for this idea, I really love it! Vase mode for life!
Very cool!! I did not know you could do that!
@@nerys71 Yes! I use it often since I learned it recently. If you use R + Esc that's a nice quick way to get rid of the ruler, as sometimes (at least for me) the ruler gets unruly and won't leave the work plane when you try to click the X to dismiss it. For the nose cone: did you try using any of the shape generators for high res versions of the sphere, cylinder or parabola (page 5, 6 and 7 respectively)?
Very cool. Great video.
really cool trick. will be easier to do in fusion 360, I'll definitely give it a shot
cool! I have an italian desk lamp that had a 50x150mm frosted glass cylinder that fell :/
did a print, looked not to nice.
just did it again, vase mode.. 1mm wide line with a 0.4mm nozzle :O worked fine!
Impressive and so simple!
Great video 👍
Thanks for sharing 👍😀
Thaks for the video. But I'm still a beginner, do you have some videos for beginners? Thanks.
Thanks for the video Chris.I will try to apply this in Fusion 360 (Or as I called it at the beginning of learning Confusion 360). I'll let you know how I get on. Good look at the show.
I know that this video is probably dated, but I'm curious how large of a difference this makes to total print time vs standard design. And print
I try my best to reply to comments. one trick is to not reply to an existing message but post a "new" message just like you did !! this means it comes to the top of my comments list and I see the message! Like I did :-)
the difference is quite dramatic. I made a very large BT101 nose cone at 100grams !!! substantially lighter but still 75% as strong as a normal printed cone.
another advantage is vase mode. which means even a poorly tuned printer should get a nice clean result as there are no retractions! less chance of any sort of failure during print.
Where the hell did you learn all this? Tinker college? I love the nonstop vase mode. Wish we could have that done by the slicer for standard parts.
I got the idea from a guy who made little Parts drawers using vase mode. When I Saw the slots in his solid models. I got an inkling of what he was doing. So I just started experimenting.
@@nerys71 my hat's off to you good sir. 🤠
Very slick technique!
Great tutorial Chris. One thing if I may mention it? When you are showing the drawing you did on the pad to emphasize the tool path, maybe switch screens so you are bigger at that point. I couldn't really see what you were drawing! Not sure if you can switch while recording? Thanks for always teaching me something new!!!
Yes 100% agreed. I realized on playback it was hard to impossible to actually see what I was drawing! need to get my white board out and goto sharpie (not on white board of course) ie thicker marker and yes full screen. I was intentionally avoiding that because I was having issues with OBS (turns out I suspect its a codec issue and not an OBS issue so working that angle now) last thing I needed was to hit a button lose the audio and talk away for 20 minutes. Grrrr the nightmare that would be! :-)
@@nerys71 Yes, losing audio would not be good LOL. Overall, it was great. You have turned me on to Tinkercad, and I think it will now get used as much as I use Fusion 360! It's a whole new way of thinking as far as how to create those custom shapes. One thing I really like about Tinkercad is how simple it is to move the work plane around. Not so simple in Fusion! Thanks again!
Amazing use of the vase/spiralized mode and great vid!
However I can't seem to get the same results in CURA, any suggestions on how to get the solid top layers printed? It's just open at the top now.
Hi. How do you make vase mode without a "floor"?
So this works only on symmetrical objects, correct?
no. symmetry is not required (though it is easier to edit) only "vase mode compliant" is required. basically no island no extreme under/over hangs. no domes. no "flat" areas. IE anything that can be printed in normal vase mode you can perform this process on. also some things "NOT" vase mode compatible can become vase mode compatible with a few "cuts" in the model.
For example the bracket for the taco recycler. not vase mode compatible. put a slice into each "pocket" and a slice through the primary ring and now it is vase mode compatible. IE islands can work if you can CONNECT the island as one continuous surface.
This video deserves a Like, a Comment, a Subscribe and a Thank you. :-)
playing around with this technique the new cura 5 slice engine doesn't like this at all (old version not to bad but not as easy as prusaslicer ), it can be forced to work but doesnt print tops and has travel and retraction moves in a spiralised mode (doesnt seem right maybe they will address this at a later date) thanks for the inspiration
This may actually have something to do with a difference in how kira and simplify 3D work
Simplify 3D bases everything off the external perimeter of the model so that means I need to leave a space inside the model of two times the nozzle diameter
Kira however I believe uses the center of the filament path as the boundary so you only need one times the nozzle diameter
This is actually kind of critical because of the way I generate the models for example the actual ribs that go from an inside to an outside wall I make mine infinitely small 0.01 mm effectively it doesn't have to be there it can be zero because the two walls would simply touch however that only works with an external perimeter model
Kira uses center of the path which means when I make the wall 0.01 mm apart they're actually overlapping in cura and that will break phase mode although you might be able to compensate with thin wall behavior?
So basically my rib to external wall gaps don't have to be as big to slice in cura but all of my ribs themselves are now too small I need to make the gap of that rib one times the nozzle diameter so if I'm using a 1 mm nozzle that Gap needs to be 1 mm because one side is going to have half an hour width and the other side is going to have half an hour with totally 1 mm for a 0.4 mm nozzle you would need a 0.4 mm Gap otherwise vase mode will break
@@nerys71 it kinda works using their 'surface' mode but still does strange things like retractions and going to other side of model for no reason?
Anyway Ive found ideamaker works perfectly, it has many of the features of simplify but it's set up for raise 3d printers and getting the correct printer profile is a bit of a chore.
Thanks for sharing.
Nice patent.
For percentage scaling, type the number eg 90% in the scaling box.
that is absolutely awesome for model airplanes and rockets! dude you should try Fusion! you would have saved many many steps to do that same you did, and watching how out of the box you think designing in Tinkercad, i know you could do some crazy stuff in Fusion =D
This would be way harder in fusion for the average person
HAVE FUN AT NARCON ! SEE YOU NEXT WEEK.
How does this look stunning sir? Its full of zits/blobs. its surface looks subpar to me sir.
Well done!
vase cube box is really cool, nice tricky!
I use multiple process for a long time since s3d implemented it... but didn’t know that it is possible to mix vase mode with other process, thinked always as vase mode for the entire model hehehee
By the way I’m making vases with 0.8 and 1mm nozzles... in TPU 95A and petg.. wider walls/nozzles works really great for that
Yep my chiron has a 1.2mm nozzle vases are killer strong at 1.2mm :-)
Nerys definitly... I have a set of Volcano nozzles (TriangleLab) from 0.4 to 1.2 to my Artillery X1, time to try it 😊
Nerys I tryed “fake nozzle” many times for vases... setting in S3D 1mm using 0.8 nozzles... works great! You can go up to 150% max of nozzle size... just need to take care with total volume to the extruder limit in mm^3 / nozzle size x layer high x speed in mm/s
@@Flagazz as long as you dont have overhangs. When you over extrude with overhangs they can get really sloppy sometimes.
Nerys True, bridges, even the small ones) and overhangs are really bad with wider nozzles... I also increase the retraction distance to around 5.7mm with 0.8-1mm nozzles in Creality printers that I usually uses 4.9mm with 0.4 nozzles
Brilliant idea! thx 4 sharing. You neeeeeed to learn Fusion. It i sso much more powerful and straight forward. Not that much fumbling around as in tinkercad.
Brilliant Chris. I think you've seen my "Smooth TinkerCad Circle" video which would definitely help with the polygons. Cheers, JAYTEE
sadly it does not. it actually makes some parts worse (the printing part) unless I am doing it wrong. what ends up happening is the filament path becomes a "zig zag" instead of a curve. since now the path moves in and out from each polygon intersection. IE the part looks smoother (and does print smoother if you duplicate it enough times) but the printer itself throws a fit trying to execute the path. if you use less polygons so it does not throw a fit so much the part is very obvious faceted :-( the "in and out" exaggerates ringing. so the higher poly count LOOKS harsher instead of smoother. I really wish autodesk would just triple the side count for all shapes. especially cylinder (just double would be nice) and Sphere (the big one for me as I use it to make nose cones)
now. I wonder if CUra's resolution options (which could chop out some of the zig zag if tuned right) would help to fix that. problem is then I would have to slice with cura since it does not actually change the model.
@@nerys71 Very interesting about the negative effects caused my the multiple dupes. Yes, just give us more sides :)
@@JAYTEEAU Well, if you look at a model closely. For example Make one duplicating shifted half of the width of a face. Doubling the number of faces But now look at the edge. It's no longer a round polygon. Where each one angles by half the previous instead Is zig zags Angle inward angle outward angle Inward angle outward So instead of a finer and finer Ark you get a finer and finer zig zag Do this enough and you do get a nice fine curve But it drives the printer crazy. :-) and on many of them you have to keep slowing down to avoid CPU. Overload.
@@nerys71 Makes sense. Thanks
TEVO Tornado with a firmware problem: First I had the blue screen of
death, so I re-uploaded a fresh version of TEVOs firmware. No errors
before or after uploading and all categories/options are there. "BUT"
open the 'Print from SD Card" and I might get just a blue screen with
the word 'Main" on top... close and reopen and it'll show all the files
on the card, "BUT" it will not let me scroll down past the first one.
Now if you select that file and click it IT REBOOTS! back to the desktop
screen every time.
OK lets try something else, so I downloaded Marlin V2 patch 4. it came
with a ton of errors, (days to figure out and fix). Uploaded/no errors. All
categories/options are there. Go into "Print from SD Card" it lets me scroll
the list no problem, "BUT" (Are you ready for this?) any file you select it
"REBOOTS" back to the desktop screen!!!!
So the million dollar question is how can I have two OS's doing the very
same thing? Where do I start looking and what am I looking for?
Thank you
awesome
👍
POLY-GONE FIX!! DUPLICATE AND ROTATE FACTOR OF 3, THEN DUPLICATE HOWEVER MANY TIMES THE PROGRAM ALLOWS OR UNTIL SATISFIED. Then you can save it as your own tinker object.
Enjoy NARCON ! Don't shake any hands !
If u want something on a plane press "D" it drops on workplane
How do i drop a Face on a work plane? Is there a way to do that?