Just did this procedure and it worked on one pass. Forgot how. So many years ago. No more slip during 5th gear roll ons. Thanks, Chris. All I had to remove to make it easier to measure the cable was the left side foot peg mount. Used a deep socket, U-joint and extension, for the locknut on the lower arm, accessed from the right side.
Just want to say thanks for the help given by your videos. My K75rt had a clutch issue deep in the Arctic Circle. Your vid helped me sort it out. Other vids helped me prep the bike for the trip. I'd never have picked up a wrench otherwise! Huge respect and good wishes.
just bought a k1100rs today and i rode it two miles b4 the clutch cable broke... then had to push it two miles. gonna order a new cable tomorrow and try to get it fixed this weekend. i was doing some research on how to vids and came across your channel. thanks for the vid i subscribed
Hi Chris, first of all : 1000 Thanks for your Video´s. It is always nice to follow your Tutorials. Your Videos have been always helpfull to maintain my own K100 LT. Regards from Germany, Stuttgart, Ralf & the K 100 LT
I have always thought my clutch was hard to pull on the K75, after seeing Chris pull this clutch lever something must be wrong with mine, even after a cable replacement. It is properly adjusted thanks to this video but definitely not a two finger pull.
Chris: Regular Permatex Anti-Seize (silvery stuff) has some copper in it: "PermatexÒ Anti-Seize Lubricant is a heavy duty, high temperature lubricant that prevents galling, seizing and corrosion during assembly and assures easier disassembly. Also reduces wear in heavy pressure applications. The product contains a refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants that can be used on slow moving parts. Meets or exceed the requirements of Military Specification Mil- A-907E."
Great tips on here. Thank you. I have just bought a k75c which has been sat for 12 years. So far, new tank pump, new fan, injectors getting sent off for cleaning. Clutch is ‘clunky’ . Any ideas why would be great! Thanks.
Great video, like all the others I've seen, good, but I ask you, let's assume that I don't have the original cable (with the two ends with the retainer) a cable with only the part that goes into the clutch lever, as I calculate how much cable leave free at the end of the lever under the engine? Many thanks for responding.
I remember there was a switch for the kickstand that made the bike not start when the kickstand was down. That switch failed once and there I was stranded. Bike would not start, so beware of that. If that switch fails, you can follow the wires up and cut them and twist them together if you have to. I like it fine without that switch. It was just an electrical thing to fail and leave me stranded with a bike that wouldn't start anyway. Who needs that? Not me. Everyone should be aware of that if you have that on your bike so you can be prepared mentally if your bike won't start. I suppose I could have jumped it at the connecter if I would have had a paper clip.
I would like to see how you get the air filter out and maybe some injectors also if that's possible. i have the little red caution light on but everything is good as far as i can tell
thanks for the info ill look into that. i have an aftermarket trunk with a tail light in it spliced into the rear brake line could this be my problem? The light stays on and all lights work perfect.
hey chris, did adjusted the clutch for my k75 however the clutcharm(?) touches the exhaust? I have 2 mm free play as suggested buy haynes, but it touches? Keep the great vids coming and tell shawn to get better soon
Would it be possible for you to make a video on the issue of how to re-tighten the various sealings on this bike? My K1100 LT leaks from the Timing Cover Case and 2 other places. You probably know a lot about the possible leaks and how to repair them I trust.
Where are your leaks? Leave the timing cover alone... Chasing the dream of a weep-free K timing chain cover is a waste of time... those always weep oil. Next; rear main seal and o-ring a leak visible at the bottom of the transmission at the round weep hole. Transmission and clutch removal required. Where else is your K1100 leaking?
Very informative. I have had a clunking start mainly in 2nd and above, do you have a transmission removal/replace and what in your opinion do you think I should look out for. Keep up the good work Karl
Hi Chris, I’ve got plenty of free play and clutch works fine however the clutch engagement/Friction zone is very late. Almost fully out before it engages. Is this normal for K1100 bikes? Thank you
Hey Chris, thank you for another very educational video. What are the differences in procedure when adjusting the R1100 clutch? I don't believe you have a video for it. Cheers! (1998 R1100R)
i just put in a new clutch cable and followed your adjustment guide. now the shifter still lets me get into first but the transmission isnt actually in gear, it still acts like its in neutral. what did i do wrong?
Chris I have a question, would really appreciate a quick answer, your videos are a big help. I removed the locking knut on my clutch rod as detailed in your video where you said it won’t cause a problem doing so. Well when I did, oil leaked from it, pretty sure it was engine oil, didn’t smell bad. Does this mean I have a leak in the housing seal inside (I have a slipping clutch under high load in higher gears)
Gear oil resides behind that boot. Normal. Slipping clutch under load like 5th gear, roll on the throttle at low speed and feel it cook - you need a clutch pack, rear seal and o-ring, at least. Probably a new accordion boot for the clutch arm if yours is leaking. I wish you luck, Chris..
Thanks Chris, it was that little bolt that screws into the arm which you used the smaller spanner in conjunction with the larger to loosen the locking ring. I will acquire the parts and get watching more RUclips videos! Thanks for the reply.
exactly, glad i described correctly. The clutch was poorly adjusted when i bought the bike last week, with no free play at all, will ride again to see if this has helped with slipping.
Good luck, sometimes you gt lucky and the slipping will stop but beware that some previous pilot might not have noticed it slipping so damage might be done that will shorten its life. Hopefully you get the season out of it and can put replacement off until winter. Good luck.
The red light with the triangle in it has nothing to do with the engine. That light is the brake light telltale warning lamp and will extinguish when you apply front and then rear brake. If it does not extinguish you have a defective brake light bulb.
You are most welcome, Scott. You could in turn help me with a contribution to keep the cameras rolling. Click the paypal link and donate an appropriate amount. paypal.me/ChrisRHarrisBMW I also have a subscription channel where my newest material goes first: www.patreon.com/user?u=25101320 Thank you, Chris
That is most likely your problem I do not recommend splicing into the taillight/brakelight circuit unless you are fully aware of how that system works. You will be very unhappy when the tell-tale unit goes up in smoke and you find out how much a replacement part costs! Disconnect the top case lighting and see if the light turns off.
It has copper at what percentage - 0.10? Aluminum/nickel anti-seize can be called 'High-Temp' yet still not withstand the same heat rating and heat cycling as copper anti-seize. And don't be fooled by a Mil-Spec rating. Just because a product meets military standards does not mean that it is used by the military and even when it is used by the military it certainly does not mean that it is any good. Our soldiers DO NOT get the best there is to offer.
Just did this procedure and it worked on one pass. Forgot how. So many years ago. No more slip during 5th gear roll ons. Thanks, Chris. All I had to remove to make it easier to measure the cable was the left side foot peg mount. Used a deep socket, U-joint and extension, for the locknut on the lower arm, accessed from the right side.
Just want to say thanks for the help given by your videos. My K75rt had a clutch issue deep in the Arctic Circle. Your vid helped me sort it out. Other vids helped me prep the bike for the trip. I'd never have picked up a wrench otherwise! Huge respect and good wishes.
The only channel that does give the most specific info, my K1100LT roles thanks to you buddy! appreciate it!
This video helped me very quickly to adjust the clutch of my K100. I want to say Thank you for making this video.
Hi Chris, this is massively informative. My K100's clutch says: thank you! :)
just bought a k1100rs today and i rode it two miles b4 the clutch cable broke... then had to push it two miles. gonna order a new cable tomorrow and try to get it fixed this weekend. i was doing some research on how to vids and came across your channel. thanks for the vid i subscribed
Hey thanks for the info Chris. I just recently purchased a 85 K100RT and really like the way you simply put things. Keep up the good work.
Hi Chris,
I realy appriciate your advice a lot, every time I see any of your videos. Thank you so much.
Hi Chris, first of all : 1000 Thanks for your Video´s. It is always nice to follow your Tutorials. Your Videos have been always helpfull to maintain my own K100 LT. Regards from Germany, Stuttgart, Ralf & the K 100 LT
Thank you for writing, Ralf & the K 100 LT. There will be much more material for both of you soon, Chris
Thanks so much for making these videos. I've only just acquired my first K100 and your videos have been a massive help.
I have always thought my clutch was hard to pull on the K75, after seeing Chris pull this clutch lever something must be wrong with mine, even after a cable replacement. It is properly adjusted thanks to this video but definitely not a two finger pull.
Thanks Chris,
New clutch cable in & adjusted!
Thanks pal.
You're welcome!
Chris: Regular Permatex Anti-Seize (silvery stuff) has some copper in it:
"PermatexÒ Anti-Seize Lubricant is a heavy duty, high
temperature lubricant that prevents galling, seizing and
corrosion during assembly and assures easier disassembly.
Also reduces wear in heavy pressure applications. The
product contains a refined blend of aluminum, copper and
graphite lubricants that can be used on slow moving parts.
Meets or exceed the requirements of Military Specification Mil-
A-907E."
Great tips on here. Thank you. I have just bought a k75c which has been sat for 12 years. So far, new tank pump, new fan, injectors getting sent off for cleaning. Clutch is ‘clunky’ . Any ideas why would be great! Thanks.
Hey, I haven't filmed the K75 clutch adjustment video yet! I'll do that soon. Adjusted properly we can then diagnose your clunking noise. Thanks Andy.
Great video, like all the others I've seen, good, but I ask you, let's assume that I don't have the original cable (with the two ends with the retainer) a cable with only the part that goes into the clutch lever, as I calculate how much cable leave free at the end of the lever under the engine? Many thanks for responding.
I remember there was a switch for the kickstand that made the bike not start when the kickstand was down. That switch failed once and there I was stranded. Bike would not start, so beware of that. If that switch fails, you can follow the wires up and cut them and twist them together if you have to. I like it fine without that switch. It was just an electrical thing to fail and leave me stranded with a bike that wouldn't start anyway. Who needs that? Not me. Everyone should be aware of that if you have that on your bike so you can be prepared mentally if your bike won't start. I suppose I could have jumped it at the connecter if I would have had a paper clip.
I would like to see how you get the air filter out and maybe some injectors also if that's possible. i have the little red caution light on but everything is good as far as i can tell
CHRIS-I assume, since 2/2/2013, you've changed this to accommodate K75. WOrking on my now. THanks for all the video's
Thank you very much Chris
Like in the past! Tell me why is the lock located above the ignition coils? I have a key, I do not know the application.
Security alarm; Throw it as far away as possible. Complete shit.
thanks for the info ill look into that. i have an aftermarket trunk with a tail light in it spliced into the rear brake line could this be my problem? The light stays on and all lights work perfect.
Possibly a dumb question from a bmw newby: is clutch adjustment procedure same for R1100?
hey chris, did adjusted the clutch for my k75 however the clutcharm(?) touches the exhaust? I have 2 mm free play as suggested buy haynes, but it touches?
Keep the great vids coming and tell shawn to get better soon
Would it be possible for you to make a video on the issue of how to re-tighten the various sealings on this bike? My K1100 LT leaks from the Timing Cover Case and 2 other places. You probably know a lot about the possible leaks and how to repair them I trust.
Where are your leaks? Leave the timing cover alone... Chasing the dream of a weep-free K timing chain cover is a waste of time... those always weep oil. Next; rear main seal and o-ring a leak visible at the bottom of the transmission at the round weep hole. Transmission and clutch removal required. Where else is your K1100 leaking?
Very informative. I have had a clunking start mainly in 2nd and above, do you have a transmission removal/replace and what in your opinion do you think I should look out for.
Keep up the good work
Karl
Hi Chris, I’ve got plenty of free play and clutch works fine however the clutch engagement/Friction zone is very late. Almost fully out before it engages. Is this normal for K1100 bikes? Thank you
Tnx buddy for nice video
Hi Chris my clutch doesn't retract the a
Sidestand, what can be the problem?
Greetings from Spain
Do you use any lube for the cable ends? If so what? Dry teflon spray?
Hey Chris, thank you for another very educational video. What are the differences in procedure when adjusting the R1100 clutch? I don't believe you have a video for it. Cheers! (1998 R1100R)
Try this guy ruclips.net/video/Yg1Hz1hGfPg/видео.html but 12 mm between the knurled nuts and 7 mm of free-play at the lever. Good luck!
Job done! Thank you again.
You're welcome!
i just put in a new clutch cable and followed your adjustment guide. now the shifter still lets me get into first but the transmission isnt actually in gear, it still acts like its in neutral. what did i do wrong?
Chris I have a question, would really appreciate a quick answer, your videos are a big help.
I removed the locking knut on my clutch rod as detailed in your video where you said it won’t cause a problem doing so.
Well when I did, oil leaked from it, pretty sure it was engine oil, didn’t smell bad.
Does this mean I have a leak in the housing seal inside (I have a slipping clutch under high load in higher gears)
Gear oil resides behind that boot. Normal. Slipping clutch under load like 5th gear, roll on the throttle at low speed and feel it cook - you need a clutch pack, rear seal and o-ring, at least. Probably a new accordion boot for the clutch arm if yours is leaking. I wish you luck, Chris..
Thanks Chris, it was that little bolt that screws into the arm which you used the smaller spanner in conjunction with the larger to loosen the locking ring.
I will acquire the parts and get watching more RUclips videos!
Thanks for the reply.
You are referring to #9 & #10 in this diagram: shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/DiagramsMid/B0000509.png?v=07242017
exactly, glad i described correctly.
The clutch was poorly adjusted when i bought the bike last week, with no free play at all, will ride again to see if this has helped with slipping.
Good luck, sometimes you gt lucky and the slipping will stop but beware that some previous pilot might not have noticed it slipping so damage might be done that will shorten its life. Hopefully you get the season out of it and can put replacement off until winter. Good luck.
Your amazing man 👍🏾
The red light with the triangle in it has nothing to do with the engine. That light is the brake light telltale warning lamp and will extinguish when you apply front and then rear brake. If it does not extinguish you have a defective brake light bulb.
Big help.. Thanks 👍
You are most welcome, Scott. You could in turn help me with a contribution to keep the cameras rolling. Click the paypal link and donate an appropriate amount. paypal.me/ChrisRHarrisBMW I also have a subscription channel where my newest material goes first: www.patreon.com/user?u=25101320
Thank you, Chris
You're welcome.
That is most likely your problem I do not recommend splicing into the taillight/brakelight circuit unless you are fully aware of how that system works. You will be very unhappy when the tell-tale unit goes up in smoke and you find out how much a replacement part costs! Disconnect the top case lighting and see if the light turns off.
Where is the video for adjustmrnt of a k750 BMW YEAR 1986
Same procedure since the gearbox, clutch, cables are the same.
By the way - a k750 does not exist. It's called K75.
at wot point do you remove 3inch pin/sleeve
Thanks, Chris. Move to Portland, OR dammit...
WHAT my clutch is supposed to retract the SIDESTAND? Never Seen that before.
Clutch action retracts the sidestand on K75 and K100 models (not 1992 16 valve K100RS).
Which red light is on?
the triangle red light center on the dash
It has copper at what percentage - 0.10? Aluminum/nickel anti-seize can be called 'High-Temp' yet still not withstand the same heat rating and heat cycling as copper anti-seize. And don't be fooled by a Mil-Spec rating. Just because a product meets military standards does not mean that it is used by the military and even when it is used by the military it certainly does not mean that it is any good. Our soldiers DO NOT get the best there is to offer.
Nice! Thank you!
Thanks but no! It is wet enough here in New England!