Rust Protection for Axes (& Other Tools)
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- Опубликовано: 26 авг 2024
- This video is the fifth in a series showing how to buy and restore a vintage axe using only simple hand tools & household items
Part 1 Covers:
Selecting an axe,
Removing a damaged handle safely,
Removing "mushrooming"
Part 2 covers:
Different ways to remove rust using everyday tools & items
Part 3 Covers "axe geometry" and the optimum shape for axes to accomplish various tasks (splitting, cutting and hewing)
Part 4 covers sharpening techniques
Part 5 Covers
Rust Protection
Part 6 Covers
Hanging an axe (fitting a new handle)
Music credits:
Artist = Earth Tree Healing
Composer = Claudine West
Website = www.youtube.co...
"I'm sowry if you can hear the rain on the tin roof in the background" Lol. How English is it to apologize for the peaceful atmosphere? Love it. And ya know you're stuff. Ya earned a new sub. Keep em coming!
Thank you and welcome 😁
Thank you so much for your help in teaching how to protect my axe, blessings.
Happy to help
No apology needed for the rain. It added a nice touch. I have not tried using wax for preventing rust. I usually use G96 gun oil. I have a nice old ox head axe that I bought, cleaned, blued and hafted. I have a simple sheath for it but I noticed the other day when I took it out it had a layer of rust on it. So clearly the oil didn’t work as well as I’d hoped.
It happens - particularly if left for a long time. If I'm putting my axes away for a long time I find petroleum jelly works well
This is the one I was most interested in, so thank you!
I'm glad, I hope it was useful
Your beeswax/carnuba wax/mineral oil is the same formula that I use for protecting cutting boards. Stands up to a cloth wash and rinse, is easy to apply and imparts no unwanted flavours to food prepared on it. What does this have to do with axes? I'm restoring an axe I received from my Boy Scout leader, in 1968. He said it was old then, at least 20 years. So my old axe is close to 75 years old maybe older. I could buy a new one, but I love it, I know it, it's never failed me and it deserves more than just to be pushed to the back of the shed. I hope when I'm ready to part with it I can give it to another young Scout. Thanks for the information, I had considered using my mix, but seeing someone else use it gives me some reassurance.
I love old tools like tgat - they have so much character!
Going to share your channel like crazy.
Thanks Josche!
Awesome videos
Thank you so much!
Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it 🙂
Great video thanks so much for posting. With changing climates I have started waxing many steel tools to prevent rust in a formerly dry part of the US! keep up the good work. Looking at your backing shelf I notice you are a fan of WD40, a must for so many things.
I use WD-40 on a lot of things after use - for example a quick squirt on hedge cutter blades or chainsaw bars.
“Axe wax” I love it!
Makes me smile 😁👍. Hugh
It’s just made my day!
I'm pleased! I'm just bottling Lilac Wine for a future video. Were you here, you would have to have a glass to celebrate! Hugh
Sounds amazing, bottoms up!
@@landfalllarderuk8629 cheers!
Thankyou very much sir, big fan of your's and great work your doing specially the shoe polish one...Sir, can you please tell us how to make leather edge colour??it would be great for us:) again thankuou and love from PAKISTAN..
Thank you, I will cover dye and edge coat soon.
@@EnglishCountryLife Thankyou Sir,it will be an honour for me to learn from you...
Amazing how many household products are just slight variations on the same theme.
Does the axe was also have a friction reducing effect, to help the axe through the cut?
The maker's mark seems a little clearer. I can make out "Riley". My similar axe is marked "JOHN RILEY SOLID STEEL", but it is a little lighter than your axe head, at only 15 ounces.
I hadn't considered that, but it would make sense, we certainly wax panel saws for exactly that reason. Old chippies would rub a candle on them.
What do you think to using Briwax? It’s a wood finish, but it’s a hard wax based on beeswax and carnauba wax with a mineral oil as well.
It sounds like it would work well!
@@EnglishCountryLife I’ve just tried applying it and it seems to go on well... Thankyou for the tips too-I’ve just finished helving a small Kent pattern hatchet and your guidance has helped quell the jitters in my mind!
@@petersmedley459 I'm so glad Peter. I'm sure you'll be confident doing more now. Its great yo hear of someone using traditional skills! Hugh
So how much mineral oil did you add for that successful attempt ??
Just kept adding a little at a time until I achieved the right consistency 🙂
@@EnglishCountryLife so is the right consistency more “water” like ? I’m trying not to fail like your first attempt…….lol😜.
@@PerroSucio You need to be able to apply it. A heavy grease consistency. Stiffer than Vaseline, softer than crayons 🙂
@@EnglishCountryLife thank you very much !!!
Adding carnuba wax to make it harder, and then baby oil, to make it softer, ??? Don't understand,, is it me,??
The mineral oil is to make it more elastic rather than brittle. You can omit the Carnauba wax if you like but I find beeswax alone too hard and diluted with oil too greasy. By all means try your own combination of waxes & oils, almost anything is better than bare steel. When working with axes I often use petroleum jelly on a scotchbrite scourer to clean off sap and give temporary protection.
I still sharpen my axes with a with wet and dry over foam. Your fault :p
Works though doesn't it? 😁
@@EnglishCountryLife Without doubt :)
Never go above 600g these days. Used to polish the shit out of them. Seem to glance more when polished.
I sharpen my little Trevor Ablett on a ceramic Lansky pocket sharpener these days. Fast & sharp enough.