Thanks I had this on while I built mine last night. Nice Jazz and commentary made for a good atmosphere so thanks for that. Was kinda like making one along with a friend haha - lockdown is getting to me :D Anyhow, going to try and remember all the things I figured out and put them down as tips if YT character limit allows. 1. Don't take the paper off till you absolutely need to. This means sometimes pulling up corners to free the area round screw holes so you can put those in without needing to remov the the paper till the end. 2. When doing 1, make sure to not get caught out leaving a bit of paper on an inside you loose access to. 3. Also when doing 1, remember to free up the paper from the tabs so bits can fit together without paper being in the way before the final removal 4. get a small corner up on all paper covers (front and back) while you have free access to them. It will make the final peel much faster/easier. Take the peeling steady, and angle into tabs so you don't tear (needing them to be scraped off with a fingernail) 5. Check what parts you have before you start and that nothing is broken. I had 1 spare slider but two were broken so I'm going to have to make a new one (although actually the sliders are [surprisingly] so firm I may not need to - not checked yet, left it on the AC/DC/GD slider as less likely to need that so often. 6. Check hole alignment for the USB on the front panel (the part can go 2 ways round and one doesn't align) 7. Test as you go to make sure you didn't damage anything 8. Mine had the signal loop holes filled in so I had to melt and drill out the solder before being able to add a loop. I made mine from a jump wire kit that I took the insulation off. Be sure to use enough to be able to position the loop behind the hole and bend it over so it pokes out (or almost out) dead center of the hole (so you have room to get the clips or probe in to use it). Marry stuff up to get a good judgement on it. 9. Once you have the clip in place use blue tak to hold while you solder so it stays in the correct position. Some small adjustments will likely be needed anyhow later. Use blutak to remove blutak - trust me, it works. 10. Check the mounting holes on the main board. One of mine had a big blob of solder I had to melt/suck off to avoid an uneven sit on the nuts. 11. Don't talk about sucking things off or sitting on nuts in youtube comments 12. 2 nuts are needed on each shaft/long screw, not to give board clearance for the solder joints, but to get the BNC high enough to go through the rear hole. 13. Don't talk about shafts, long screws, sliders or rear holes on youtube comments 14. Don't forget there is paper on the 5 buttons and 3 sliders that will need removing. I'd advise doing this first (I almost forgot till the very end - which was anti-climatic). Note, you didn't need those fingernails so say your good byes before starting. 15. I'd advise only putting the nuts on the long screws very loosely at first, so they have plenty of room to rock about. The reason for this is that, if you make them really rigid from the get go (...), it will be quite hard to get the screen back on (and subsequent layers) as it has to marry up with the pin holes AND the screws. 16. There is a lot of talk in this video about a spare nut. I didn't need it as the way this thing works is that there is a backing plate that fits behind the screen PCB, and this supports everything that goes on, there after (2 more plates that, when on, will sit flush with the top of the case sides). It does this by virtue of the fact that the screen PCB is supported by the two corner supports on the main board and the data connector, which are all pretty solid. 17. Be careful with the edges of the perspex on the screen PCB backing plate. I snapped a bit of the acrylic while applying pressure without realising I was pushing on a weak part (wasn't noticable though) 18. My board had some "creative" ceramic capacitor soldering, putting many of them on par height wise with the Electrolytic capacitors and other tall components that the backing plate has holes for. Check this to make sure you are not squishing anything when you put the screen PCB back and if needed bend the caps over taking care to avoid over stressing any point on the wire (don't snap them) 19. The back plate has to go on before you start adding anything more than the main board (as otherwise you'll find yourself wiggling several boards up on the screws to get enough clearance to add it later). 20. Tightening the nuts on the screws after you have the screen PCB (with it's backing plate and maybe the other 2 plates too) on is kinda tricky. I had to use pliers to hold the screws in place while I screwed from the underside. 21. Don't talk about screwing from the underside in youtube comments. 22. At the end, everything should be nicely flush with the top of the sides and there should be enough protrusion on the long screws to get the lid and screw caps on. 23. Don't forget to put the buttons and sliders in before putting the lid on! XD OK, that was a lot of words and maybe I should have just made my own video! Anyhow, hopefully someone got through them all and found them of help. I'm really pleased with the final result as it feels really solid (I expected flimsyness and rattles) and even the sliders are pretty stiff (...) Incidentally, it looks better IRL than it does in photos too. All the best Wist
I wondered about that. I watched other videos where they explain the functionality and the trace was blinking. I was sure it was video because you see that in a TV screen that is being videoed. It is steady to the human eye in "real life". Thanks again for an exemplary job.
26:19 mind did get static charge when a transformer gave strong kick back. It started displaying random stuff. Restarting didn't work. Had to turnoff and put it in anti-static bag after a while it started working normally.
Thanks for the well done instruction with out the load music as with others. And a note about the acorn nuts being on the bottom since i am new to electronics but I am a woodworker I just clued some homemade wooden feet on the bottom with anti slip material works fine for me.
You know, I am way overdue to make this video... I have all the footage, but haven't taken the time to produce a video out of it. Thanks for that reminder, that was just the kick in the pants I needed!
Nice video. I would suggest taking the extra switch cap and putting it inside the case on under the circuit board so it does not get lost. it could simply be wedged in between somewhere where it's barely noticeable or a dab of tape to the acrylic to still have a clean look. I'll likely do the same when my case gets here later in the week.
Good idea! I have the extra button and slider extensions in a small bag with the rest of my stuff, and it's only a matter of time until I lose them. Sticking them on the inside seems like a great plan, since you'd have to open up the case to replace a broken one anyways.
This is a valuable video. I have the case and there are no instructions at all. I figured it out myself, but It would be helpful to see how it goes together. The hardest thing with the case is removing the protective covering on the plexiglass. :-) I wound up just leaving the bottom plate bolted on. It's clunky when it's all assembled and makes it more difficult to use. There are variations in the design of the same case. Mine did not have as many parts and did not have the long studs. The sliding switch extenders are hard and stiff to use.
Yes, great idea! But there is a catch: you have to drill through 4 layers of acrylic in order to reach the capacitors. I would be worried of cracking the acrylic, but I'm sure it can be done. The top capacitor is right below one of the sliders, so this one might also be challenging. I haven't had a need to recalibrate the oscilloscope yet, but it will come eventually. If you do it, please report back and share the experience!
Nice video thanks. I don't know if my DSO138 will come with a case since the description on Amazon doesn't list one but many of the reviews talk about how difficult it was to assemble the case. I'll find out later today when it arrives. If it doesn't come with a case I'll just 3D print one, there are lots of case designs on Thingiverse but I'll probably end up designing my own.
Hi Bob, do you mean a cursor on the display? The various functions are accessed by using the buttons to navigate, highlight and select the appropriate function on the display, there is no mouse cursor or equivalent.
Thank you on quick replay. I've meant on Y/X cursors. For example to measure a peak to peak voltage, or time from one point to another on the sine waves.
There isn't any cursor or pointer you can control. However the graphical display has an overlay that shows you a bunch of stats: min, max, diff, frequency, duty cycle, and a few more. But you cannot put a pointer on the screen to get the stats at that location. This seems to be a more advanced feature that you would not find on a cheap scope like the DSO138.
Excellent vid and narration. I plan to drill holes to access the trim pots to accommodate different probes. If anyone does this BE SURE to use a drill bit made for drilling plastic, otherwise you stand the possibility of breaking the case.
There are long "arms" on the slider switch outside devices... Might that 2nd screen surround panel be used to keep them in position (can't fall out then)? With over 2 years passing since you posted this I can understand if you don't read and reply to this post.
Yes indeed, those inner panels help support and guide the extensions of the slider switches. They seem to serve a few purposes, mostly adding structure to the case.
@@OaklandMisfit Does it also keep the momentary buttons within the case somehow? I couldn't see anything on them in the video to enable as much, but perhaps there's a shape change that's not visible in the film.
The momentaries are "T" shaped, as well as the sliders. When the top cover goes on, all the extensions are captured. The cutouts in the top cover only allow for the tactile part to exit. The "T" keeps them in. Hope this helps. Great job, Oakland! Thank You! I finally assembled my DSO138 and it works! :-) Ready now, with your guidance, to put together the "infamous" acrylic case. I personally don't think I am going to have any problems and I LOVE how it looks. So cool. Cheers.
what do you do when there is a part of the case missing? The part is the one that has the 4 holes for the small screws and attaches to the screen board.
You can probably contact the seller and ask them to send the missing part. At that price point they may end up sending you the entire kit. Or, you could make the missing part out of balsa wood or carton. That's probably what I would do, to keep with the DIY theme.
with mine some of the tabs were misaligned or the holes too small I don't know but I broke it a few places to get it to fit. I think the tolerances were a bit too tight. And it should come with instructions.
There are many versions of this case, some of decent quality, some lower grade. At least you were able to build it, even if it required a bit of adjusting. But that's the fun part of DIY, right?
I hope it came out alright for you, Pecktronics. I think I recall a video of someone working with one of these cases and they had to file certain parts to make it fit right. I have had mine for a while (untouched) so I probably saw that video a year ago. I am glad I saw OM's video as this is the best instructional I could ask for. I am no stranger to mods, but it is nice to have it laid out right in front of you. Like I said, you did all the hard work, OM. Pecktronics, if it really looks bad with fractures and such, I would say get another case and rebuild it. You know how little they cost. :-)
You NAILED it! I was wondering what I was going to have to go through to put mine together. You just took all the hard work out of it! OCD my ass! That is the way to do it! Now all I have to do is make a pristine clean work area to do this. Thank You so much OaklandMisfit. Misfit, my ass!! :-)
The nuts are called "Acorn" nuts. My case came with plastic standoffs, one shorter for the board to rest on and the second for a spacer for the screen and button board. the other two boards were not in my kit.
That's right! Been a long time. Acorn Nuts. Castle nut came to my mind at first but I knew that was wrong. Those are the nuts you can put a cotter pin through the "turrets". Usually used in heavy applications. Thanks Henry!
I'm just using a 9V battery, it's small and portable. I've had the same battery for a while and it still works fine, it seems the oscilloscope does not use much power.
You needed to put the long screws in from the top and used the nuts to lock PCB to the board cutout the LCD display locates the other 2 acrylic boards and then fit the bottom with the castled nuts to act as feet.
You break the long ones into two pieces. So you get 6. But you only need 4. That's why he said he has a a few spare. You SHOULD have 4 short ones, for the slider switches. You've either lost one, or else it was left out.
True, the official instructions show the cap nuts at the bottom. This means you are assembling the case upside down, starting from the top and moving towards the bottom. It's a bit more difficult, but not a big deal. But I disagree for two reasons: 1) the cap nuts look much better than the screw heads, and belong on top; this makes the case look more polished 2) it is difficult to have all four cap nuts be level, and you end up with a wobbly case because one of the nuts is shorter; you can even see that on the assembly video on Banggood, where I bought this case. Both work, but I prefer the cap nuts on top.
I understand the artistic look and agree but there is a reason the nut's are on the bottom. Frequencies have a vibration pattern that can mess with test meters. surfaces are important and how your equipment is set as well as the equipment you are working on. Look at how the screw has a place to trap waves, then look at how the shape of the rounded nut's and what they would do to a wave. What you do is use a drop of locktite in each connection and adjust it with a level on a level surface. Been an engineer a long time, when dealing with things that make noise during testing that would unscrew/screws lol, you pick up why some things are done.
Interesting insight, thanks for sharing. For a high-end, or even mid-range piece of equipment, I would appreciate that the shape and design of the case is important for the equipment. But for a cheap oscilloscope like that, which did not even come with a case, do you think they would bother? Could be, stranger things have happened.
I stopped watchiong at 12min, The case literally had taken a side path. And the video is about a connection that was not made during the first construction. I thought the video might have started at 8:50 but just look for another one if you reach the comments in 8 minutes wondering.
you should be using plastic tools for adjusting your meter, not metal screwdriver... just saying. Otherwise thanks for the heads-up for when my meter arrivers!
The slot in the adjustable capacitor is insulated. Not a bad idea, though, to use plastic tools to make such adjustments. Good habit. I like the idea of spacers on the screws. I think I will try that. Thanks, Tim!
Just so you know, I heard that RUclips is going to discontinue annotations to videos (Starting Jan. 2019). I don't know why but something to look into. Seems like a silly decision by RUclips. Maybe they will come to their senses and allow annotations to continue. I rely on those as a viewer and it is a useful tool for the channel creators. Just like anything else in life. If it works, "they" do away with it. I got this from one of Fran's videos and she knows RUclips. Hope this heads up helps.
Also your third point is completely wrong. The first layer is supported by the pin headers that connect the LCD display to the main board. It will NOT rest on the BNC connector.
It is true that the pin header provides a lot of support for the first layer, but it still rests on the BNC connector and on the screw on the opposite corner, as can be seen in the video. Here's a good view at 27:02. I would be worried that something would break if the pin header was the only support, since the pin header is not meant to support the weight of the screen plus the layer of acrylic.
Thanks. I got this case on Banggood, I've had good success with them. I don't know the actual manufacturer, they have several versions on their site, but this case was pretty good.
Thanks I had this on while I built mine last night. Nice Jazz and commentary made for a good atmosphere so
thanks for that. Was kinda like making one along with a friend haha - lockdown is getting to me :D
Anyhow, going to try and remember all the things I figured out and put them down as tips if YT character limit
allows.
1. Don't take the paper off till you absolutely need to. This means sometimes pulling up corners to free the
area round screw holes so you can put those in without needing to remov the the paper till the end.
2. When doing 1, make sure to not get caught out leaving a bit of paper on an inside you loose access to.
3. Also when doing 1, remember to free up the paper from the tabs so bits can fit together without paper being in
the way before the final removal
4. get a small corner up on all paper covers (front and back) while you have free access to them. It will make
the final peel much faster/easier.
Take the peeling steady, and angle into tabs so you don't tear (needing them to be scraped off with a fingernail)
5. Check what parts you have before you start and that nothing is broken. I had 1 spare slider but two were
broken so I'm going to have to make a new one (although actually the sliders are [surprisingly] so firm I may
not need to - not checked yet, left it on the AC/DC/GD slider as less likely to need that so often.
6. Check hole alignment for the USB on the front panel (the part can go 2 ways round and one doesn't align)
7. Test as you go to make sure you didn't damage anything
8. Mine had the signal loop holes filled in so I had to melt and drill out the solder before being able to add
a loop. I made mine from a jump wire kit that I took the insulation off. Be sure to use enough to be able to
position the loop behind the hole and bend it over so it pokes out (or almost out) dead center of the hole (so
you have room to get the clips or probe in to use it). Marry stuff up to get a good judgement on it.
9. Once you have the clip in place use blue tak to hold while you solder so it stays in the correct position.
Some small adjustments will likely be needed anyhow later. Use blutak to remove blutak - trust me, it works.
10. Check the mounting holes on the main board. One of mine had a big blob of solder I had to melt/suck off to
avoid an uneven sit on the nuts.
11. Don't talk about sucking things off or sitting on nuts in youtube comments
12. 2 nuts are needed on each shaft/long screw, not to give board clearance for the solder joints, but to get
the BNC high enough to go through the rear hole.
13. Don't talk about shafts, long screws, sliders or rear holes on youtube comments
14. Don't forget there is paper on the 5 buttons and 3 sliders that will need removing. I'd advise doing this
first (I almost forgot till the very end - which was anti-climatic). Note, you didn't need those fingernails so
say your good byes before starting.
15. I'd advise only putting the nuts on the long screws very loosely at first, so they have plenty of room to
rock about. The reason for this is that, if you make them really rigid from the get go (...), it will be quite
hard to get the screen back on (and subsequent layers) as it has to marry up with the pin holes AND the screws.
16. There is a lot of talk in this video about a spare nut. I didn't need it as the way this thing works is
that there is a backing plate that fits behind the screen PCB, and this supports everything that goes on, there
after (2 more plates that, when on, will sit flush with the top of the case sides). It does this by virtue of
the fact that the screen PCB is supported by the two corner supports on the main board and the data connector,
which are all pretty solid.
17. Be careful with the edges of the perspex on the screen PCB backing plate. I snapped a bit of the acrylic
while applying pressure without realising I was pushing on a weak part (wasn't noticable though)
18. My board had some "creative" ceramic capacitor soldering, putting many of them on par height wise with the
Electrolytic capacitors and other tall components that the backing plate has holes for. Check this to make sure
you are not squishing anything when you put the screen PCB back and if needed bend the caps over taking care to
avoid over stressing any point on the wire (don't snap them)
19. The back plate has to go on before you start adding anything more than the main board (as otherwise you'll
find yourself wiggling several boards up on the screws to get enough clearance to add it later).
20. Tightening the nuts on the screws after you have the screen PCB (with it's backing plate and maybe the
other 2 plates too) on is kinda tricky. I had to use pliers to hold the screws in place while I screwed from
the underside.
21. Don't talk about screwing from the underside in youtube comments.
22. At the end, everything should be nicely flush with the top of the sides and there should be enough
protrusion on the long screws to get the lid and screw caps on.
23. Don't forget to put the buttons and sliders in before putting the lid on! XD
OK, that was a lot of words and maybe I should have just made my own video! Anyhow, hopefully someone got
through them all and found them of help. I'm really pleased with the final result as it feels really solid (I
expected flimsyness and rattles) and even the sliders are pretty stiff (...) Incidentally, it looks better IRL
than it does in photos too.
All the best
Wist
Point no 6. has happened to me. :( I'll flip the plate when I need the USB port.
I wondered about that. I watched other videos where they explain the functionality and the trace was blinking.
I was sure it was video because you see that in a TV screen that is being videoed. It is steady to the human eye in "real life".
Thanks again for an exemplary job.
I really enjoyed your video and like the way you explain things. Well done video.
Thank you for your very well done and entertaining video, you probably saved me hours of frustration.
Great! It's a hobby, no need for frustration!
26:19 mind did get static charge when a transformer gave strong kick back. It started displaying random stuff. Restarting didn't work.
Had to turnoff and put it in anti-static bag after a while it started working normally.
Thanks for the well done instruction with out the load music as with others. And a note about the acorn nuts being on the bottom since i am new to electronics but I am a woodworker I just clued some homemade wooden feet on the bottom with anti slip material works fine for me.
Hi David, that sounds great. if you have a chance to post a picture to show what it looks like, I'd love to see it.
Tried to find the video on the converted power supply you show in the video. Would love to see the video on it!
Thanks!
You know, I am way overdue to make this video... I have all the footage, but haven't taken the time to produce a video out of it. Thanks for that reminder, that was just the kick in the pants I needed!
Here it is! I finally completed it and uploaded it a few days ago: ruclips.net/video/dlTaNzE7Sdw/видео.html
@@OaklandMisfit That power supply is Awesome!
Nice video. I would suggest taking the extra switch cap and putting it inside the case on under the circuit board so it does not get lost. it could simply be wedged in between somewhere where it's barely noticeable or a dab of tape to the acrylic to still have a clean look. I'll likely do the same when my case gets here later in the week.
Good idea! I have the extra button and slider extensions in a small bag with the rest of my stuff, and it's only a matter of time until I lose them. Sticking them on the inside seems like a great plan, since you'd have to open up the case to replace a broken one anyways.
good idea, a year from now I will have lost it.
This is a valuable video. I have the case and there are no instructions at all. I figured it out myself, but It would be helpful to see how it goes together. The hardest thing with the case is removing the protective covering on the plexiglass. :-) I wound up just leaving the bottom plate bolted on. It's clunky when it's all assembled and makes it more difficult to use. There are variations in the design of the same case. Mine did not have as many parts and did not have the long studs. The sliding switch extenders are hard and stiff to use.
Thanks for the video , would it be more convenient to drill a hole above the adjustable capacitors for future calibration ?
Yes, great idea! But there is a catch: you have to drill through 4 layers of acrylic in order to reach the capacitors. I would be worried of cracking the acrylic, but I'm sure it can be done. The top capacitor is right below one of the sliders, so this one might also be challenging. I haven't had a need to recalibrate the oscilloscope yet, but it will come eventually. If you do it, please report back and share the experience!
good idea again that is what I will do.
Thanks for making this video it helped me put my case together.
Glad it was helpful.
Video starts at 8:50 if you want to know about the case. If you wonder to the comments wondering , FTW !!
Nice video thanks. I don't know if my DSO138 will come with a case since the description on Amazon doesn't list one but many of the reviews talk about how difficult it was to assemble the case. I'll find out later today when it arrives. If it doesn't come with a case I'll just 3D print one, there are lots of case designs on Thingiverse but I'll probably end up designing my own.
Dear Sir, Can we find Laser Cutting File / template as Case is not available in local market? Thanks.
Nice and quite helpful, thank you. Does the DSO 138 has a cursors? I would really appreciate the answer.
Hi Bob, do you mean a cursor on the display? The various functions are accessed by using the buttons to navigate, highlight and select the appropriate function on the display, there is no mouse cursor or equivalent.
Thank you on quick replay. I've meant on Y/X cursors. For example to measure a peak to peak voltage, or time from one point to another on the sine waves.
There isn't any cursor or pointer you can control. However the graphical display has an overlay that shows you a bunch of stats: min, max, diff, frequency, duty cycle, and a few more. But you cannot put a pointer on the screen to get the stats at that location. This seems to be a more advanced feature that you would not find on a cheap scope like the DSO138.
So I have supposed. However, there is nice features on it anyway and I will get one also. :) Thank you.
Excellent vid and narration.
I plan to drill holes to access the trim pots to accommodate different probes. If anyone does this BE SURE to use a drill bit made for drilling plastic, otherwise you stand the possibility of breaking the case.
Thanks. This really helped me with my case assembly.
Glad it was helpful!
There are long "arms" on the slider switch outside devices... Might that 2nd screen surround panel be used to keep them in position (can't fall out then)? With over 2 years passing since you posted this I can understand if you don't read and reply to this post.
Yes indeed, those inner panels help support and guide the extensions of the slider switches. They seem to serve a few purposes, mostly adding structure to the case.
@@OaklandMisfit Does it also keep the momentary buttons within the case somehow? I couldn't see anything on them in the video to enable as much, but perhaps there's a shape change that's not visible in the film.
The momentaries are "T" shaped, as well as the sliders. When the top cover goes on, all the extensions are captured. The cutouts in the top cover only allow for the tactile part to exit. The "T" keeps them in. Hope this helps. Great job, Oakland! Thank You! I finally assembled my DSO138 and it works! :-) Ready now, with your guidance, to put together the "infamous" acrylic case. I personally don't think I am going to have any problems and I LOVE how it looks. So cool. Cheers.
thanks! that took me 15mins instead of an hour pissing about!
15 mins on a 20 min video, that so far 4 mins in has not talked about the actual case. That's some esp you have there.
Thanks for making this video
Glad you liked it.
what do you do when there is a part of the case missing? The part is the one that has the 4 holes for the small screws and attaches to the screen board.
You can probably contact the seller and ask them to send the missing part. At that price point they may end up sending you the entire kit. Or, you could make the missing part out of balsa wood or carton. That's probably what I would do, to keep with the DIY theme.
with mine some of the tabs were misaligned or the holes too small I don't know but I broke it a few places to get it to fit. I think the tolerances were a bit too tight. And it should come with instructions.
There are many versions of this case, some of decent quality, some lower grade. At least you were able to build it, even if it required a bit of adjusting. But that's the fun part of DIY, right?
I hope it came out alright for you, Pecktronics. I think I recall a video of someone working with one of these cases and they had to file certain parts to make it fit right. I have had mine for a while (untouched) so I probably saw that video a year ago. I am glad I saw OM's video as this is the best instructional I could ask for. I am no stranger to mods, but it is nice to have it laid out right in front of you. Like I said, you did all the hard work, OM. Pecktronics, if it really looks bad with fractures and such, I would say get another case and rebuild it. You know how little they cost. :-)
Very helpful, thank you!
You NAILED it! I was wondering what I was going to have to go through to put mine together. You just took all the hard work out of it! OCD my ass! That is the way to do it! Now all I have to do is make a pristine clean work area to do this. Thank You so much OaklandMisfit. Misfit, my ass!! :-)
The nuts are called "Acorn" nuts. My case came with plastic standoffs, one shorter for the board to rest on and the second for a spacer for the screen and button board. the other two boards were not in my kit.
That's right! Been a long time. Acorn Nuts. Castle nut came to my mind at first but I knew that was wrong. Those are the nuts you can put a cotter pin through the "turrets". Usually used in heavy applications. Thanks Henry!
Same with my acrylic case. Any idea of how to use the nylon screws and stand offs?
Hey does the oscilloscope comes with a power supply?
Mine didn't. There are many versions of this kit available, it is possible some of them include a power supply.
OaklandMisfit
What type of power supply do you have for your unit
I'm just using a 9V battery, it's small and portable. I've had the same battery for a while and it still works fine, it seems the oscilloscope does not use much power.
OaklandMisfit
Thanks for the fast reply
Maybe some plastic spacers would have made the unit more stable???
this is very useful look about you might get it cheaper for a few quid already assembled not unless you like modular things and i guess you do :)
GREAT JOB
You needed to put the long screws in from the top and used the nuts to lock PCB to the board cutout the LCD display locates the other 2 acrylic boards and then fit the bottom with the castled nuts to act as feet.
some good tips thank you
Why not buy 2 extra nuts?Rob
I know right? Would have been a good idea. But in retrospect, I spent a lot of time on this little nut, but it was probably not necessary.
Dude..test points on Mine are doubled..pre assembled
We have 3 long and 3 short buttons
You break the long ones into two pieces. So you get 6. But you only need 4. That's why he said he has a a few spare. You SHOULD have 4 short ones, for the slider switches. You've either lost one, or else it was left out.
your long screws with the round nuts, the round nuts should be on the bottom.
True, the official instructions show the cap nuts at the bottom. This means you are assembling the case upside down, starting from the top and moving towards the bottom. It's a bit more difficult, but not a big deal.
But I disagree for two reasons:
1) the cap nuts look much better than the screw heads, and belong on top; this makes the case look more polished
2) it is difficult to have all four cap nuts be level, and you end up with a wobbly case because one of the nuts is shorter; you can even see that on the assembly video on Banggood, where I bought this case.
Both work, but I prefer the cap nuts on top.
I understand the artistic look and agree but there is a reason the nut's are on the bottom. Frequencies have a vibration pattern that can mess with test meters. surfaces are important and how your equipment is set as well as the equipment you are working on.
Look at how the screw has a place to trap waves, then look at how the shape of the rounded nut's and what they would do to a wave.
What you do is use a drop of locktite in each connection and adjust it with a level on a level surface. Been an engineer a long time, when dealing with things that make noise during testing that would unscrew/screws lol, you pick up why some things are done.
Interesting insight, thanks for sharing. For a high-end, or even mid-range piece of equipment, I would appreciate that the shape and design of the case is important for the equipment. But for a cheap oscilloscope like that, which did not even come with a case, do you think they would bother? Could be, stranger things have happened.
I stopped watchiong at 12min, The case literally had taken a side path. And the video is about a connection that was not made during the first construction.
I thought the video might have started at 8:50 but just look for another one if you reach the comments in 8 minutes wondering.
you should be using plastic tools for adjusting your meter, not metal screwdriver... just saying. Otherwise thanks for the heads-up for when my meter arrivers!
The slot in the adjustable capacitor is insulated. Not a bad idea, though, to use plastic tools to make such adjustments. Good habit. I like the idea of spacers on the screws. I think I will try that. Thanks, Tim!
The extra nut middle of the screw is useless, first u need to attach the LCD, then it would be okay...
Just so you know, I heard that RUclips is going to discontinue annotations to videos (Starting Jan. 2019). I don't know why but something to look into. Seems like a silly decision by RUclips. Maybe they will come to their senses and allow annotations to continue. I rely on those as a viewer and it is a useful tool for the channel creators. Just like anything else in life. If it works, "they" do away with it. I got this from one of Fran's videos and she knows RUclips. Hope this heads up helps.
yeah, nuts...
in germany we say "Nuss" :D ich liebe Kraut, Sauerkraut mit Thüringer Rostwurst ;)
Also your third point is completely wrong. The first layer is supported by the pin headers that connect the LCD display to the main board. It will NOT rest on the BNC connector.
It is true that the pin header provides a lot of support for the first layer, but it still rests on the BNC connector and on the screw on the opposite corner, as can be seen in the video. Here's a good view at 27:02. I would be worried that something would break if the pin header was the only support, since the pin header is not meant to support the weight of the screen plus the layer of acrylic.
The DSO138 scope tested
➡ Read this article
chinese-electronics-products-tested.blogspot.com/p/dso138-very-cheap-scope-tested.html
i have a sameoscolliscope,iuseforhobby. itsgreaat
Only issue I have with it is, it's very limited in frequency. But most of the times it is sufficient for hobby needs.
These half assed scopes are a waste of time! Half of the are counterfeit and arrive damaged.
Nice music.
Check out www.bensound.com
I have many specks of dust in mine. Lol
I just put this case together and it is total TRASH. Save your money.
There are different versions o this case. The one on aliexpress is a real piece of shit. Nice tut.
Thanks. I got this case on Banggood, I've had good success with them. I don't know the actual manufacturer, they have several versions on their site, but this case was pretty good.
I'm sorry but you built it upside down!
Someone else in the comments also said the cap nuts should be at the bottom. I prefer the cap nuts on top, it looks nicer.
I understand, but that's why you encountered difficulties