Carburetor Rebuild on the Yamaha SR250 Project, EP 3
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2019
- It's time for a carburetor rebuild, refitting the fuel tank, and finally getting the Yamaha SR250 Exciter back on the road - we're making progress! But, as always, the motorcycle rebuild journey isn't without its highs and lows. I invite you to follow along with the whole build series, from troubleshooting to customization, using this playlist: bit.ly/344S2uR
If you enjoy this video I hope you’ll give it a “like” and will consider hitting the subscribe button. Have a comment or thought? Please leave it below…comments are always encouraged and appreciated! For more content you can also follow me on Instagram at / jimmytmoto and at my website, jimmytmoto.com .
This channel is for motorcycle riders, mechanics, and enthusiasts who enjoy the simple joys of motorcycling, from dual sport riding to fixing up old bikes on a budget. My videos also consider the perspective of short motorcycle riders (when it’s helpful and relevant) in choosing and modifying bikes and equipment.
I’ve been hooked on motorcycles since 1975 when, at the age of 11, my dad brought home a shiny new Suzuki TM75 for me and a Suzuki TC185 for himself so that we could trail ride together in the hills of West Virginia. Since then I’ve worked as a mechanic, owned countless bikes, and even worked in the motorcycle industry for a number of years as a photographer and journalist. Now I do mainly video production and enjoy nothing more than making and sharing these motorcycle videos on RUclips.
Thanks again for watching. Ride safe!
- jimmytmoto 
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Awesome work on the bike Jimmy, absolutely love your videos. I did not know about the trick to recondition rubber hose, thanks so much for sharing that. I've only worked on classic cars before but I just got my motorcycle license and am really excited to start my adventure. Unfortunately the vintage motorcycles are not as easy up for grabs in Australia but hopefully I can find something that I can enjoy for a long time. Keep up the good work, really enjoy watching your videos.
I have an Exciter 250 having these issues (won't take any throttle without lots of choke) so seeing these videos really helps me out!
Thanks! Sounds like a dirty carb, for sure, probably the main jet. Let me know if you get it sorted out. Good luck!
A friend just bought one to teach others on. Its amazing and this far no issues. Just rotted tires. Thanks and great video.
Impressive series of video's. I am not mechanically inclined although my father was. I am not sure what is more impressive, the engineering that designed these machines or the people who can break them down, repair and/or clean, rebuild and get them back to life! Thank you for taking the time to make these very well done video's and sharing your passion.
Super video. Great attention to detail and very entertaining.
awesome!
Rusty Tank. 1. Clean with detergent and water - rinse. 2. Put 1 quart Diluted Phosphoric Acid ( home depot MetalEtch) about 4 parts water to 1 part acid ( acid into water ...never water into acid) and 2 cups clean sharp gravel into the tank . Shake and agitate by hand untill all the rust is removed. 3. pour out acid into plastic or glass container, remove all gravel. 4. Make 2 gallons of baking soda and water solution. Repeatedly rinse inside of tank with this soda solution to neutralize the acid. Do this until there is no more reaction. 4. rinse with water... many times. 5. Dry in sun or on a radiator type electric heater... or with a reflector lamp until absolutely dry... this can take 12-24 hours. 6. Mask the paint, and put prevent the petcock opening from being clogged ( use a stick if it is a small hole). 7. Pour in 3M Fuel Proof Coating... this is an industrial high VOC material... which may be hard to find.. but it is the best thing there is aircraft grade stuff. Swirl this around in every corner of the tank.. including the underside of the top ! pour out all the excess... every bit. This will ruin any pain it come in contact with.. and you wont be able to remove it with anything non-nuclear. 8. Dry in the Sun, if you can. I like to hang them on the line. this stuff is flamable.. the vapors probably explosive in confined spaces.. so do not use around flame, or high heat sources. 9. You now have a coating that is clear , red, and looks like it came out of the BMW factory... and Will Not Fail Again. ( if I had a leaking aluminum tank.. I would seal it with this same stuff). not quick.. but the best way I know. ALTERNATE TO ETCHING: You might substitute Evaporust for the phosphoric acid.. which would make it much easier... hint.. elevate the temp to 90-100 degrees and it will work better and in just a few hours instead of 24. Wash and rinse and dry if you use it. then the 3m stuff.
Good vid .i had a 250 us custom in blue i live in england loved mine wish i still had it
Very curious. I was given a carburetor for free and today I've changed all of the jets and parts like you. The curious part is that my jet was exactly like yours: it had broken the screw head I've taked it out exactly like you've done.
I need one of those carb rebuild kits. Just not sure where to get one in South Africa!
Watched all the exciter ones. Great job. I just bought one and am tuning it up so it was extremely helpful. Do you have a link to the inline fuel filter you used?
Hello, for an optimal adjustment of the carburetor, I would like to kindly know from you how many complete turns I have to unscrew the air-fuel pilot screw. Thank you very much
Love your videos! I have a question regarding the oil that you mixed with the alcohol, what is the purpose of it? Looking to do the same but that oil costs a fortune here in sweden!
All the best!
Hello Jimmy my name is Jack and I have received an 81 sr250 from my father and was wondering where is was that you got the carb rebuild kit you have in the video, thanks!
Where did you get the jets etc? I have the same bike I'm restoring!
what spray are you using to clean up?
I have one of these, but it refuses to start. I have a carb kit coming soon. Hopefully will solve the issues.
Have a link to that carb rebuild kit?
Im buying one on monday for 1k the owner is currently out of town. I am going to make it a cafe racer it has the hideous trunk i am definitely going to sell. The bike only has 1k miles on it. The handlebars and seat im going to change right off. Maybe a cowl and a Cafe racer tank.
I have the same bike got it for 500 and running
That's a sweet deal!
Hello . I hope that you are fine
If you can advice me please to buy a new carburetor for cr250 special .
Or you have any other solutions let me know how i can do ? Thank you 😊😊😊
Hey @jimmytmoto, you don’t happen to have a manual for this bike do you? I have a 1980 SR250 but can only find a SR250G manual online. Regardless, thanks for this awesome and helpful video!!!
Did you find one? If not let me know. I happen to have one, can send you pics if you’d like.
I didn't see where you purchased the carb rebuild kit from. Recommendations?
Hey Geno, look for the KEYSTER brand carburetor kit, it has high quality parts. It has a number of alternative jet options besides stock, so it's a bit more expensive ($40?) than a cheap kit but the quality is worth it. The cheap kits are sometimes disappointing. You can probably find the KEYSTER multiple places but I know for sure Mike's XS carries it. Look them up and good luck!
Epoxy is your friend. Keep the tank, make it better. First use epoxy with a thickener to "putty" the outside. Think like Bondo, but with no chopped strands, and realize you're going to want to fair, sand and paint the outside anyways, so you might as well do it with a material you can honestly trust to hold gas. You can get thickeners at boating places, or on line. Alternate, you could use some fiberglass cloth tape instead of thickener, and that still lets you sand down the edge for painting. Next, if you can thoroughly de-grease the tank, you could also pour in epoxy and coat the bottom areas from the inside. Hell, roll it around and coat as much as you can, it can only be better than bare steel.
Or solder it. I'm not kidding. If you can find some flat copper braid (look for "copper ground strap"), you can solder that on, adding a very thick layer over the areas, with enough thickness you can sand it fair.
In the past I've used POR-15 to clean and coat the inside of tanks and it's always done such a great job. But this time I wanted to try the vinegar trick...and now wonder if the POR-15 would have held things together or just delayed the inevitable. Oh, well, it is what it is. Per your thoughts, I'm looking at an epoxy for the outside and maybe Red Kote for the inside. I've also found another tank that looks like it will work. Options!
submerge the float first.. to make sure it doesn't leak... if it does..why clean it?
Why oh why does there have to be this aggravating music? Otherwise a great video many thanks.
Thanks, Phil, I appreciate it. And I'm sorry about the music being aggravating. My intention was to explain everything I was doing but, living in the city my neighbors dogs (on both sides), sirens, lawnmowers, etc., kept interrupting every 15 seconds, so the music ended up being the compromise. It was definitely plan b!
Buying one tomarrow. Guy says the tank leaksm maybe same issue.