Thanks for another detailed video my friend! You are one of the professors that make RUclips the university of knowledge, although the real interesting channels are more and more overshadowed by the screaming influencers... Great work Tom, keep it up!
Just in real life, you can choose to watch the train wreck of reality TV, or something educational. The train wreck sells, but that doesn't mean there isn't room for some good documentaries! Thanks for watching.
Hey Tom, thanks for that. Yes I agree totally about the repro caps. They are of a poor quality. I get them from Superformance UK and Maranello Parts UK. I had a rotor melt completely and then come loose and basically turned like on a lathe, in to what was like cotton candy. It's been a real pain. Your video has helped heaps. Cheers, Marc
Most all the parts suppliers get their parts from the same sources. The trick is to figure out which ones work and how to identify the better parts and only buy those. Thanks for watching
More great work! I just did the passenger window on my 308 yesterday. The worst part is getting all the old dried up grease out before adding new. Also had to dissemble and clean up the switches as the contacts were all dirty. I like the relay idea. I may have to think about giving that a try. They work nicely now but would be good to not put such a load on the switches. Also great information on the distributor caps. I’ll have to keep an eye out when getting reproduction parts. That small 2mm difference would definitely be easy to miss and difficult to chase down in the future for sure.
308s are notorious for slow windows, and even at their best, they're not fast! The electrical system doesn't help the problem either, so don't forget to check the fuse panel for corroded connections that can also cause a voltage drop. low voltage across the switches causes arcing which only adds to the corrosion on the contacts. Thanks for watching!
Those cable setups for windows were prone to failure. The same system was used in FIATS. So many parts of a Lamborghini and Ferrari are exactly the same as the one in cheap FIATS. A friend had to replace a manual window crank of a Countach. Turned out it was identical to a FIAT 126. In one of your last videos I have seen signal lights on a Sixties Ferrari that were the same on the first Fiat 124 Spiders. Those reproduction parts can be of extremely low quality. I saw a video of a guy working on a C2 Corvette. He wanted to try out Ebay articles. Every single one of those parts failed within a few days. From brake cylinders to power steering and a lot more. More than once I bought a spare part and when I looked at it I decided not to use it at all. If I see how simple it is to remove the door panels on those old cars I know why I HATE modern cars. When I had to open the door panel on newish BMW a few things broke and I had to check youtube in order to find all the hidden bolts and clips.
What relevance and timing! Yesterday I just installed a black repro Distributor cap from MaseratiSource and a white repro rotor from Superformance on the Dino and noticed how tight it was to secure down. No Bueno. The carbon button was fully depressed too, just as you show here, yet in mine it started out before install, nicely extended as normal. I could feel it as I tightened the 3 fasteners but hadn't had time to start the car or even look into it but assumed the repro rotor was at fault as I felt it was difficult to mount. Now, thanks to your investigation, I think it might also be the distributor cap. Perhaps a spacer is needed between cap and distributor? The problem with repros is "casting shrinkage" where they simply cast a mother from an OEM part to make a mold for fabrication. That mold is not dimensionally accurate and you are seeing the results.
My concern about using a spacer is it’ll change the distance between the rotor and each contact at the cylinder. There are evidently at least two types of reproduction caps, and perhaps if you can find a supplier that sells the other one, the dimensions will be better. Good luck and let me know how you solve this problem. Thanks for watching.
I had a problem with 365 gtc, windows sometimes not moving at all, voltage at the motor was 7 volt but battery 13, ended by replacing power wire from fuse box to window switch, and it solve the problem.
Yup, all sorts of electrical issues. Sometimes it’s a simple as a corroded connection, but sometimes it more involved like a burnt switch. You never know until you take a peek inside!
Авто/Мото
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.Good luck
Happy to share what I've learned! Thanks for watching!
Another beautiful video
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for another detailed video my friend! You are one of the professors that make RUclips the university of knowledge, although the real interesting channels are more and more overshadowed by the screaming influencers... Great work Tom, keep it up!
Just in real life, you can choose to watch the train wreck of reality TV, or something educational. The train wreck sells, but that doesn't mean there isn't room for some good documentaries! Thanks for watching.
Hey Tom, thanks for that. Yes I agree totally about the repro caps. They are of a poor quality. I get them from Superformance UK and Maranello Parts UK. I had a rotor melt completely and then come loose and basically turned like on a lathe, in to what was like cotton candy. It's been a real pain. Your video has helped heaps. Cheers, Marc
Most all the parts suppliers get their parts from the same sources. The trick is to figure out which ones work and how to identify the better parts and only buy those. Thanks for watching
More great work! I just did the passenger window on my 308 yesterday. The worst part is getting all the old dried up grease out before adding new. Also had to dissemble and clean up the switches as the contacts were all dirty. I like the relay idea. I may have to think about giving that a try. They work nicely now but would be good to not put such a load on the switches. Also great information on the distributor caps. I’ll have to keep an eye out when getting reproduction parts. That small 2mm difference would definitely be easy to miss and difficult to chase down in the future for sure.
308s are notorious for slow windows, and even at their best, they're not fast! The electrical system doesn't help the problem either, so don't forget to check the fuse panel for corroded connections that can also cause a voltage drop. low voltage across the switches causes arcing which only adds to the corrosion on the contacts. Thanks for watching!
The switches sit facing up and ready to gather all dust that comes by !
Those cable setups for windows were prone to failure. The same system was used in FIATS.
So many parts of a Lamborghini and Ferrari are exactly the same as the one in cheap FIATS.
A friend had to replace a manual window crank of a Countach. Turned out it was identical to a FIAT 126.
In one of your last videos I have seen signal lights on a Sixties Ferrari that were the same on the first Fiat 124 Spiders.
Those reproduction parts can be of extremely low quality. I saw a video of a guy working on a C2 Corvette. He wanted to try out Ebay articles. Every single one of those parts failed within a few days. From brake cylinders to power steering and a lot more. More than once I bought a spare part and when I looked at it I decided not to use it at all.
If I see how simple it is to remove the door panels on those old cars I know why I HATE modern cars. When I had to open the door panel on newish BMW a few things broke and I had to check youtube in order to find all the hidden bolts and clips.
Taking any door panel has its tricks, even the old cars. I’ve just taken off a bunch of them, so I know the procedure. Now so do you!
What relevance and timing!
Yesterday I just installed a black repro Distributor cap from MaseratiSource and a white repro rotor from Superformance on the Dino and noticed how tight it was to secure down. No Bueno. The carbon button was fully depressed too, just as you show here, yet in mine it started out before install, nicely extended as normal. I could feel it as I tightened the 3 fasteners but hadn't had time to start the car or even look into it but assumed the repro rotor was at fault as I felt it was difficult to mount. Now, thanks to your investigation, I think it might also be the distributor cap. Perhaps a spacer is needed between cap and distributor?
The problem with repros is "casting shrinkage" where they simply cast a mother from an OEM part to make a mold for fabrication. That mold is not dimensionally accurate and you are seeing the results.
My concern about using a spacer is it’ll change the distance between the rotor and each contact at the cylinder. There are evidently at least two types of reproduction caps, and perhaps if you can find a supplier that sells the other one, the dimensions will be better. Good luck and let me know how you solve this problem. Thanks for watching.
I had a problem with 365 gtc, windows sometimes not moving at all, voltage at the motor was 7 volt but battery 13, ended by replacing power wire from fuse box to window switch, and it solve the problem.
Yup, all sorts of electrical issues. Sometimes it’s a simple as a corroded connection, but sometimes it more involved like a burnt switch. You never know until you take a peek inside!
Tom, check your math on the second brown rotor.
I’ll check. That’s what happens when rushing to get a video posted !
@@tomyangnet I think its just the printing on the screen. Both brown ones are longer.
if that was my 365 the way you just jammed the wiring back into the door without any attempt to tidy it up, bad look !
You are right, I actually went back after I put the camera down to tie wrap things together. Couldn’t do it one handed!
Nope. He's mid-process, why waste time on an iteration? That's like worrying about the alignment of trim screws of panels that are coming off.