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Pre Bending Parts for Easy Laminating
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- Опубликовано: 14 авг 2024
- www.woodcademy...
Previously, I shared a video showing how to make formed wood parts from thin laminations: • Lamination Bending Pt ...
In this video, I show you a trick for pre-bending the parts making the final glue up MUCH easier and greatly reducing the risk of cracking around tight bends.
The pre-soaking is a good idea. I would also by clamping them wet the 1st time your allowing them to slide over one another which helps too. Thanks for the video.
You are welcome! I am glad you found it useful.
Excellent. Clear, concise and directly to the point. Well done.
Thank you! I am glad you found it useful. Be sure to subscribe and check out all the great woodworking information over on our website: www.woodcademy.com
Fantastic Video! Well explained and well presented. Thank You!
So glad you enjoyed 8t! Thanks for the kind words. Be sure to like and subscribe.
Awesome, you confirmed a theory I've been contemplating. I'll be doing a very similar process, but with 2'x4'x1/8".wish me luck.
👍🏻🐸👍🏻
Glad it helped! Keep us posted on how your bend works out.
This was exactly what I needed! I’m creating a product prototype and want to try gluing sheets of veneer into a pretty extreme hairpin curve. I’ll follow these steps to test it out.
Sally Parker so glad you found it useful!
I was just going to type in the same sentence as you when I spotted your line so i'll just agree with your statement 😂 this vid is brilliant and to the point
i will be trying this on a project coming up. i want to glue up strips of white oak for stirrups for a horse riding saddle. a relative bought a saddle cheap because it's missing a sturrup. i have the lone stirrup as a master to make two new ones
Be sure to soak the oak well. Oak can be difficult to bend since it is brittle and has very open pores.
That is the most convenient and efficient way! Thanks!
Izzy, thanks for watching. It is a greatway to get very strong curved parts. Be sure to check out Episode 3 of my Woodcademy TV show on Amazon Prime. The episode shows, in great detail, how I make the forms, glue up and clean up three different bent wood parts. www.woodcademy.com/wctv/2017/8/22/episodes-3-4-library-stand
a simple and effective trick's, thank you for share !!
My pleasure, I am happy you found it informative.
I wonder whether varying the pre-bend for different segments could be used to increase the strength of the final piece? For most applications, this likely wouldn't matter though.
I've glue laminated curved sections for furniture and they always seem stronger than the straight pieces due to the inbuilt tension within the piece. perhaps over pre-bending the outer laminations and under pre-bending the inner ones could be used to maximise the internal tension while maintaining a reasonably precise final form? Some testing will need to be done I think.
Well, you have put some thought into this! Sort of "pre-stressing" the parts might work.
I look forward to your report on your tests! LOL
Great tip!
Just discovered your channel, so I'm looking forward to checking out your other videos.
Thank you, Father Thomas! Please feel free to subscribe to the RUclips channel and visit my website. Lots of videos, plans and info there, just follow the link in the video description.
A simple and effective trick! thanks for share 🙂👍
Cesar Betancourt, glad you liked it! Be sure to check out our TV show at www.woodcademy.com/wctv
I realize this is an old video and you may not see this. Let's say I laminate strips into a one inch thick curve for a table base for instance. Since I have soaked the kiln-dried wood do I now have to wait a year for it to dry again?
Doug, it does not take a long time for the stock to dry, especially as thin strips. I left these clamped overnight, took them out and spread them out to dry. I glued them up the next day.
amazing video
Great stuff! Thanks for sharing this with me on ILTMS.
Happy to be of help Greg!
Thank you for the video very helpful. What was the wood you used here?
Glad you found the video useful! For that project, I was using walnut.
I tried this by soaking the parts in wood, before putting them in the form however now there are little mold spots all over my pieces - has anyone else seen this? Any advice?
I've not seen it, but it is not too surprising. Wood is biodegradable. Wipe the strips down with a solution of water with just a little bleach in it to kill any mold.
Thank You very much!
My pleasure Phillip! Be sure to subscribe and check out our website at www.woodcademy.com
Thank you good sir!
Nart, you are welcome. I am happy you found it useful. Be sure to subscribe and check out my website at www.Woodcademy.com
Amazing.. Thank You.. Very Useful..
You are welcome! Be sure to subscribe and check out our Woodcaemy TV Show: www.woodcademy.com/wctv
can there thin strips be made and bent with any type of wood? What would be the best wood to use?
Thanks for watching! The short answer is yes, but some woods certainly bend better than others. Oak tends to bend poorly while cherry bends very readily. tight grain has a lot to do with it. But any wood can be bent, and even to some pretty tight radii if you "pre-soak" the stock before bending. For video that goes into real depth on laminate bending, check out Episode 3 of my Woodcademy TV show on Amazon Prime. I show you the entire process including cleaning up the parts after laminating: www.woodcademy.com/wctv
I liked this idea, I'll do it, thanks
That is great, Azuz, nice to know my work is helping!
cool idea
Frank Bullitt glad you enjoyed it. Check out our Woodcademy TV show as well; www.woodcademy.com/wctv
I am thinking about adding neoprene or EVA to the inside of the press so the pressure will be spread more uniformly.
That might help, but if you accurately cut the two-parts of the form, you will get very uniform pressure. Since I tend to use pine for the forms, it compresses under the clamps and I rarely find any gaps.
@@Woodcademy never thought you'd actually replied. So if I use MDF as the press I don't need to add the layer is that correct?
@@kaikart123 Yes. As long as you accurately measure and cut the concentric arcs on the form, MDF should work just fine.
@@Woodcademy Alright, thanks a lot man
cant wait to try this out, thanks :)
Aroop, Thank you, I am glad you found this video useful.
do they stain ?
They should stain just fine, as long as the layers are tight. There will be some squeeze out at the edges, but that is removed when you square the parts up.
Good idea
garima jain thank you!
Hey body, what is the thickness of the stripes? Thanks for the video
Ana, In this case, the strips were 1/8 inch thick. Glad you liked the video!
@@Woodcademy
Which wood?
@@xmo552 The wood in the video is walnut, but any wood will benefit from soaking and pre-bending. Like any wood bending, some species bend better than others.
Where can I get large (48X96in) sheets of wood as thin as in the video?
Are you looking for just a few sheets for a shop project, or are you looking for a commercial source for manufacturing? The full sheets are VERY difficult to source for non-commercial buyers.
what kind of glue ar you using?
+jacasch in this video, just regular yellow glue. Titebond 1 dries hard and resists "glue creep", so I prefer it to others. Titebond 2 and 3 tend to remain slightly flexible when cured so they are not as good in my opinion.
Epoxy is excellent for outdoor use, and the pros use a resin glue that comes in powder form and is mixed with water.
+Ralph Bagnall
much thanks. Im trying to make a headphonrstand with this technique and hope that I can get my hands on that glue in switzerland. i will try it with sandart white wood glue first.
Prit stick
I'd like to see you go ahead and just damp them off and then go ahead and glue them with gorilla glue. Bet it works. Or titebond 3 even.
Bob, The soaking and pre-bending are NOT about glue hold, they are about softening the strips so they do not break as they are bent into the tight form shown.
If you try to force dry strips into a tight 180 degree bend they will simply break. Soaking (not just wetting) softens the fibers and makes the stock more pliable.
You can try using polyeurathane glue without waiting for the strips to dry, I'd like to know if it works that wet. But I do not like to use Titebond 2 or 3 for laminations. Titebond 1 dries hard and rigid, 2 and 3 are polymerized to dry slighlty flexible. This has advantages, but laminations tend to "creep" over time since the glue does not fully harden.
In
why not just cut a piece of lumber like that bending jig of yours to the size of the curve you want.that way you'll have the curved piece of wood right away.You'll just need to sand it for perfection.Am i wrong?
+Mucydonia there are several options for making curved parts. I have other videos here showing other forms of bending. Which you choose is partially based on preference and partially on application. Simply cutting a large block is somewhat wasteful if the material is rare, and it creates end grain though the curve rather than face grain only as this technique provides. I learned this technique as a stair maker, the bottom tread of a staircase is often extended to encompass the volute at the bottom of the railing. That would need to be a huge chunk of Lumber for a 50 inch wide tread.
Thanks bro.Iv'e learned new ideas now.
+Mucydonia my pleasure, that is what all this is about!