Fumes will exit much more efficiently if the top is built at an upward angle into the exhaust ports. A flat top causes turbulence and fumes roll around inside
I'm not building it to outperform existing functional fume hoods, a simple carry over is fine here once I get the baffles on and new fan put in. I just have way too much going on to attempt playing in the lab, it's sad unfortunately since I haven't been able to record or experiment in a year now
I like the concept. I am currently planning out my fume hood setup. I think I will use a plastic barrel loaded with carbon as a pre-scrubber to protect the ventilation system.
I really wanted to use 1/4" plexiglass on all six sides, and then use squirrel fans for the air barrier and scrubber but the project fell way out of price range rapidly. Do you have the vent system planned out? I'd be interested in seeing what you've got planned for your build
@@CondorrKCarbon filter with water based scrubber would keep your neighbors happy at least. You can treat the waste water as needed. Plexiglass reacts to certain acids and petrochemicals, as well as nitriles. I still say living 1,000 yards from anyone is the best option, which doesn't help you. Nitric acid boils are quite easy to see from miles away anyway. Lol!
Mainly pricing. The wood was sourced locally for free and I already had the Mylar/plastic sheeting. If I had more budget I'd have better invested but budget is also why it's been 11 months since my last upload. Gotta get rid of our Mazda sapping funds. May upload a few tutorials on engine repair and rebuilds since I now have 3 engine blocks, 5 heads, and all have issues but usable parts but the one I spent $500 on to fix the problem originally. So rebuilt and replacing the swap with tucked and partial shaved bay atleast. Once it's confirmed good again it'll be the main and I can finish my Audi then get back into the lab at night 😂 it's been a mess here. Being so constantly overwhelmed is bad, but offers some opportunity when I can remember to film.
Sorry for the late response. Right now, nothing. It's more proof of concept while I refine and verify parts. It'll be redone eventually, but the highest risk to the wood is either a spill amounting to more than 6 liters or corrosive gas not evacuated by the fan system. The fans are being replaced by one unit flowing 850CFM and I'm installing baffles that should further strengthen the system. The exterior is being done with wood laminate, the interior with the same mylar sheet and is being introduced over the current wood structure. My current struggle is my sash. I'm cutting it in half lengthwise, with the top being permanently fixed and the bottom being the movable piece. Getting it in place, movable, and maintaining a seal with the upper vent bypass is where I run into issues. I could also sub the wood for metal, but then corrosion and price becomes a problem so that is best left up to what you use most often. I'll be doing an update in the next month or so, after finishing a honda block rebuild that went horribly wrong. I'll be happy to have new content coming in again, it's been too long
Wood burns but besides that is it that bad? I do my chemistry on a wooden plank. Concentrated sulfuric acid will make black stains but at least it won't dig in too much as it does in metal nor produce flammable hydrogen. Probably not the smartest material but OK for me so far.
I used sheet metal, and it was all food grade stainless steel i had cut to my specs at a local fabrication center that makes roach coaches!(lunch truck vendors)! No more fume magnet!
@@fmdj no problems so far, but the bottom square is Mylar covered. I tucked it over to have a half inch drop for spills. I'd like to do a stainless exterior and keep the plastic coating inside but every setup needs different environments so it all depends on what you typically use and what'll be special case scenario. So far, holds up good when I have time to be in there. Recently focused on a civic rebuild so we can open up our budget.
@@Angrychemist666 nice! Did you look into coatings for it to keep corrosion and spill Dave minimized? I don't remember what all is available, it's been a long time since I did my research on L3 fume hoods
I'm changing my setup to an 8" 950cfm and haven't run much smelly stuff through my current setup to say it's great, but people complain more about stuff they do in the garage than experiments I've done. Worst was probably ammonia gas when I used ammonium nitrate & water for endothermic cooling, no smell outside but I could smell it some inside for sure. Hoping the new fan does much better for moving volume and will be hard sealing the outside
@@CondorrK Thanks for the reply. I just finished building a test inline activated carbon filter. 3 foot of 8in galvanized duct, with a 4 inch galv duct inside with with 5/8 holes drilled through it capped at the end. with 40 mesh stainless screen wrapping the 4 inch. still haven’t tested it yet but hopefully will complete the rest of the build soon.
@@markadams8452 nice. Carbon filters do work but keep in mind they can be very restrictive on the system, I don't remember the literature on exhausting it but people have done secondaries less restrictive that help at the same level for scrubbing gases
I think the inside height is around 3' before adding baffles and everything else. I picked up some upgrades and will be updating this sometime soon when I figure out the revisions. I'll post accurate internal dimensions when I find my tape measure lol
I'd use a non-reactive material for the frame and enclosure material, a non-metalic fan, a water based fume filter and live on my 5 acres away from everybody else. Just saying. 😂
The vent fans are ABS, and the main plastic I used is Mylar sheeting I believe. If I could afford land away from people I'd get it just to have it 😭 I'm planning a proper rebuild of the hood soon once I finish my PID heating mantle - assuming I can source free materials or print enough money for materials
Fumes will exit much more efficiently if the top is built at an upward angle into the exhaust ports. A flat top causes turbulence and fumes roll around inside
I'm not building it to outperform existing functional fume hoods, a simple carry over is fine here once I get the baffles on and new fan put in. I just have way too much going on to attempt playing in the lab, it's sad unfortunately since I haven't been able to record or experiment in a year now
I like the concept. I am currently planning out my fume hood setup. I think I will use a plastic barrel loaded with carbon as a pre-scrubber to protect the ventilation system.
I really wanted to use 1/4" plexiglass on all six sides, and then use squirrel fans for the air barrier and scrubber but the project fell way out of price range rapidly. Do you have the vent system planned out? I'd be interested in seeing what you've got planned for your build
@@CondorrKCarbon filter with water based scrubber would keep your neighbors happy at least. You can treat the waste water as needed. Plexiglass reacts to certain acids and petrochemicals, as well as nitriles. I still say living 1,000 yards from anyone is the best option, which doesn't help you. Nitric acid boils are quite easy to see from miles away anyway. Lol!
I love it! But why not use 2x4s or sheet metal studs at home depot?
Mainly pricing. The wood was sourced locally for free and I already had the Mylar/plastic sheeting. If I had more budget I'd have better invested but budget is also why it's been 11 months since my last upload. Gotta get rid of our Mazda sapping funds. May upload a few tutorials on engine repair and rebuilds since I now have 3 engine blocks, 5 heads, and all have issues but usable parts but the one I spent $500 on to fix the problem originally. So rebuilt and replacing the swap with tucked and partial shaved bay atleast. Once it's confirmed good again it'll be the main and I can finish my Audi then get back into the lab at night 😂 it's been a mess here. Being so constantly overwhelmed is bad, but offers some opportunity when I can remember to film.
What are you using to protect the wood from chemical spills?
Sorry for the late response. Right now, nothing. It's more proof of concept while I refine and verify parts. It'll be redone eventually, but the highest risk to the wood is either a spill amounting to more than 6 liters or corrosive gas not evacuated by the fan system. The fans are being replaced by one unit flowing 850CFM and I'm installing baffles that should further strengthen the system. The exterior is being done with wood laminate, the interior with the same mylar sheet and is being introduced over the current wood structure.
My current struggle is my sash. I'm cutting it in half lengthwise, with the top being permanently fixed and the bottom being the movable piece. Getting it in place, movable, and maintaining a seal with the upper vent bypass is where I run into issues. I could also sub the wood for metal, but then corrosion and price becomes a problem so that is best left up to what you use most often. I'll be doing an update in the next month or so, after finishing a honda block rebuild that went horribly wrong. I'll be happy to have new content coming in again, it's been too long
Wood burns but besides that is it that bad? I do my chemistry on a wooden plank. Concentrated sulfuric acid will make black stains but at least it won't dig in too much as it does in metal nor produce flammable hydrogen. Probably not the smartest material but OK for me so far.
I used sheet metal, and it was all food grade stainless steel i had cut to my specs at a local fabrication center that makes roach coaches!(lunch truck vendors)! No more fume magnet!
@@fmdj no problems so far, but the bottom square is Mylar covered. I tucked it over to have a half inch drop for spills. I'd like to do a stainless exterior and keep the plastic coating inside but every setup needs different environments so it all depends on what you typically use and what'll be special case scenario. So far, holds up good when I have time to be in there. Recently focused on a civic rebuild so we can open up our budget.
@@Angrychemist666 nice! Did you look into coatings for it to keep corrosion and spill Dave minimized? I don't remember what all is available, it's been a long time since I did my research on L3 fume hoods
Question, how well does your activated carbon filter work to reduce oders?
I'm changing my setup to an 8" 950cfm and haven't run much smelly stuff through my current setup to say it's great, but people complain more about stuff they do in the garage than experiments I've done. Worst was probably ammonia gas when I used ammonium nitrate & water for endothermic cooling, no smell outside but I could smell it some inside for sure. Hoping the new fan does much better for moving volume and will be hard sealing the outside
@@CondorrK Thanks for the reply. I just finished building a test inline activated carbon filter. 3 foot of 8in galvanized duct, with a 4 inch galv duct inside with with 5/8 holes drilled through it capped at the end. with 40 mesh stainless screen wrapping the 4 inch. still haven’t tested it yet but hopefully will complete the rest of the build soon.
@@markadams8452 nice. Carbon filters do work but keep in mind they can be very restrictive on the system, I don't remember the literature on exhausting it but people have done secondaries less restrictive that help at the same level for scrubbing gases
What is the inside height of your fumehood?
I think the inside height is around 3' before adding baffles and everything else. I picked up some upgrades and will be updating this sometime soon when I figure out the revisions. I'll post accurate internal dimensions when I find my tape measure lol
No problem. I just made mine 80cm inside height. (31.5 '')@@CondorrK
It's been a while, how is it coming and how do you like your setup?
I finished it a month ago but have been very busy with work and still have not used it yet. Hopefully in April sometime.@@CondorrK
I'd use a non-reactive material for the frame and enclosure material, a non-metalic fan, a water based fume filter and live on my 5 acres away from everybody else. Just saying. 😂
The vent fans are ABS, and the main plastic I used is Mylar sheeting I believe. If I could afford land away from people I'd get it just to have it 😭
I'm planning a proper rebuild of the hood soon once I finish my PID heating mantle - assuming I can source free materials or print enough money for materials