The more I look and listen to you the more I appreciate you for your teaching skills , you explain everything very well and in a fun way never boring, ure awesome and you have an admirer right here! Godspeed Sarah keep up the great work ! 🙂🤙
So the Battery Cut Off, it won't shut off the car because your alternator is still being driven by the engine. There is a 6 pin Cut Off Switch which you need to wire into the ignition of the car too so when you pull the bone it actually interrupts the ignition and turns off the car while also disconnecting the positive terminal. I like your videos! Cheers from Germany 🍻
@@SarahnTuned I was just about to say this. You need a Battery disconnect switch with Alternator Field cut-out contacts(which are supposed to be disconnected prior to the High Current Battery contacts). Don't worry, I have a similar single contact switch in my race car, I just make sure to switch off the ignition before turning off the big red switch, lol ...I'm really enjoying this build btw :)
@@SarahnTuned Might want to check that rulebook again, some sanctioning bodies require you to have the correct shutoff switch. It would suck to show up to tech and get turned away for something that simple.
@@SarahnTuned unless you're swapping to a total loss electrical system (no alternator) you're almost certainly going to need the other style switch. I've failed so many SCCA cars for annual tech for this exact mistake.
The 6pin switches also have a resistor to dump the current to ground. Even if the kill switch kills the battery and shuts down the engine, the spinning engine will turn the alternator and generate power. The resistor will dump that power to ground. I've had to re-wire the kill switch a few times, because different tech inspectors had different opinions on how it should work. I've also fried an ECU when it was setup wrong. That took a LONG time to figure out, since the car would run but not well.
Make sure you have a service loop when running cables. (Extra length or some zig zag in the layout that can be used to extend or retract the length. Helps to install/remove the battery.)
You are amazing. You mentioned that you would like to try modeling. You have the looks for it and how about TV. You would be a hit on car programs. Great channel.
I like the "I saw it, I gotta fix it" stuff. Reminds me of my "I thought of it, I gotta do it" routine I use to not forget anything if I'm packing on a tight deadline.
great work Sarah, I really enjoy the videos. My Daughter and I are working on her first car, I am glad she is taking an interest in the car. she want to track a car but this one will not work for that. but we will see what the future hold..
Go go Sarah, go. Boy time flies when you're having fun, huh? Same thing happens to me when I work on my car. I think it's a simple 20 minute job and it turns into 2 hours. So it goes. Love from Michigan!
LMFAO. Been a tech for 30 years. Your sense of humor and interest and seemingly knowledge of cars ect,, is cool. In a polite way an attractive young lady. First time I've seen any of your vids. I just "subbed,". Good on ya girl. Ttyl.
‘cause race car you should refer to the GCR! Run your wires down the center tunnel so they don’t get munged up when getting in and out of car. You go girl!! 🤘🏎🏁
Is it me or is it awesome to see a woman doing all of this car stuff and seeing her still take the time to do stuff like here nails! Most car guys are greasy and nasty! Love it!
The fill hole on that transmission is on the front facing side towards the bottom, there is a vent on the top/back near the shifter linkage, but unless it's worse in person than it shows up on camera, I'd spray it off and call it good.
OCD is good, keep it clean, you will then be able to see everything wrong. you will be one step ahead of others. It is all in the detail, be fussy just in a functional way. From New Zealand great channel.
The RTV on the IMRC actuator looks very old if nothing else, might still be worth pulling apart to check. If not, they used that same actuator on a few different vehicles(different cable, bust same unit) so a new one for a SVT can be a used one from a Contour or a Taurus. It's also going to be worth checking the linkage at the manifold, if it's sticking it can give you the same fault, and also keep those runners long above 4k, which might be what you were feeling with it not wanting to rev out well. Thank you for the circuit breaker mention, I was getting a little antsy seeing that many feet of unfused power lead.
I don't think the center console is going to suffice for the battery switch. They will probably want it in an area where it can be reached from outside the car, without having to reach in that far. I usually see them on the dash, near the side window
Every racing sanctioning body has it’s own rules for where those shut off switches should be, please check the rules of which your going to race in to make sure your not wasting your time.
Sarah. You need to use a step drill to drill the bigger holes. Not a spade bit for wood. Would a bit safer on your wrist and easier. A set is pretty cheap.
Sarah -n- Tuned I understand totally, just saying for a later date. Keep the videos coming. I’m not a car guy but machine mechanic by trade love watching you work and try to think your way around issues. What a Women.!
Before you cut the wire you might want to get an idea on cage placement. Most race cars I've been around have the wire loom inside the cage to prevent severing in a crash.
@@SarahnTuned most roll cages are made from 1.25 inch to 1.75 inch diameter tube. Some go 2 inch diameter. So if you go 4 or so inches inboard it should be good.
I am a new subscriber and I'm enjoying your videos, can't wait to see you race the rally car. You're the cutest snorklemabobber ever! Thank you for your service to the USA!
I'm not reading comments to see if it's been suggested already. When you're drilling, and you're concerned about damaging something on the other side of your work piece, you can use a drill stop, which prevents you from drilling deeper than a specified depth. They come in sets.
You'll need an externally mounted pull cable to the isolator. Dont think mounting on centre consol will cover you for access from outside. Also might need to upgrade the isolator to what they normally call an FIA spec that kills alternator power too.
@Sarah-n-Tuned: Nice Idea with the breaker switch, but I would run a Bowden cable outside the car, so in case you're stuck a marshal or viewer can shut your car off (dis-/connecting to the hole in the key of the switch)... and mark it accordingly with a red electrical flash sign on blue ground or just a red flash with your colour of the car :) Also the circuit breaker must not be more than 30cm (about 1ft) away from the battery pole, I would suggest a ANL type of fuse, they're sturdy and available in the ratings you need for this application.
Sarah, glad you are acknowledging when and where to direct your efforts! Stay Focus-ed ! Get it...... I thought you would appreciate that humor since its yours!!!
Great video, Sarah. I'll be interested to see the conclusion of this phase of your project; specifically, how you route the ground side of the circuit where the old ground cable was. Keep up the great work. Love your channel.
You usually use the cars frame as a link for ground. She will probably screw the battery terminal near the battery and the old battery cable somewhere in the engine bay.
Justified-The video looks really good the new camera seems to be capturing more light more shadow detail didn’t see it lose focus and the sound is good so👍 I hope it was new camera anyways if not it must’ve been the great talents of the camera girl. Entertaining as always that one went by quick can’t wait for the next one john
The shut off switch is not usable for anything else than styling and to stop battery drain while storing the car. For a race/rally car you need a switch that cuts both the battery cable AND fuel pump power AND/OR ignition power. The car needs to shut off when you flip the switch. If you only break the battery the car will still run off the alternator... Usually you also need to be able to reach that switch from the outside of the car, which can be done by a handle on a wire. Love your videos, your always fun!
You should consider putting the battery cut off on the driver side A-pillar, also as others have stated you might need to change your battery set up depending on the class.
I know it's going to be a rally racer. However, you can clean it up and make it pretty. That way it will at least look like a clean race car and everything will look new on it as well!
Clean it anyway. You will develop a regimen for how to clean it after you run it that will not be as "detailed" as your other cars, but will allow you to feel good, be happy, and minimize contamination when you are working under the hood.
I used to read on focaljet about people trying to repair those IMRC’s for the intake, and I had one fail myself in 2009. Just replace it - that one is super ghetto repaired...or since it’s going to be a race car, just replace the intake manifold with a racing manifold and get rid of the dual stage intake. A tune will eliminate the control variables and prevent a P1518
Hey Sarah! what you do is awesome and I am jealous that you are really making some cool cars! You know a lot of stuff, and I for one would love to see some short videos on some "how-to" knowledge on what you do. You get close on explaining, but I mean a bit slower and focused on particular things. I think you have a lot to teach and would love my daughter to see what you do and learn. Cheers!
Try to get the requirements for rallycars. I think to remember that the Battery shut OFF also be acceable from the outside. (No reaching into the car). The same for fire extinguishers.
It looks a helluva lot better with the European spec radiator grill and the headlights with the built in indicators were on the facelifted Mk1.5 here in England and looked loads better than the original indicator location in the bumper. I've seen them retrofitted into Mk1's
Glad to join the channel when its only 132K. Sarah keep going, keep inspiring others to make mods and car DIY things! You're doing a great job and doing this in a most beautiful way! Let's make 1M subs happen in couple months, keep subscribing and liking Sarah's videos!
Yass you've put the GRILL that I told you to put in!!!! and now the EAP headlight! You're making all the right decisions. Keep the battery between the two wheels though.
@@michaelkennedy8550 The european grill. I bought mine on ebay 12 years ago when I had the car. It's an oem part from ford. There's 2 european grills available.
Yes, more Project Rally, looking good (as always), nothing wrong with a bit of OCD, a bit, a little bit, Sarah! Nooo! Put the OCD away, step away from the OCD, as you say RaceCar! Cracking up on the innuendos, Fun Girl, you rock! Thank you for yet another video. P. S. But please don't burn out being a RUclipsr, we will wait on you if you need a break, rather than lose you all together.
Sarah. for safety sake ,and Fire safety .you should mount a metal handled kill switch(plastic key will break ) outside the car..with a remote cable attached to it so the driver can shut off the switch and some one outside the car can do the same if your Rally car is rolled over and they can not get in side the car.they will Not be able to shut it off .thanks for sharing the video .
1) The Ground Battery wire needs to be attached to a big chunk of dense metal, opt for the original location or simply attach it on the gearbox (many cars have the battery ground on the gearbox). Otherwise you will have voltage losses along the circuit, the battery will not charge correctly and the alternator will be prone to failure due to voltage spikes (such as when the engine fans start). 2) You do not need a circuit breaker for the Plus wire, the length of the cable is not an issue if the wiring is done correctly. 3) When you disconnect the battery, you first disconnect the ground wire, then the +, and at reconnection you do it the other way around. For this reason, the cut-off switch needs to be placed on the ground wire. 4) While you're there, do a check on the alternator and make sure it runs in good condition (i would hazard a guess that it needs a rebuild by the looks of the car). 5) After all these are done, you should have AT MINIMUM 13.8 volts measured at the battery with the engine running, at least 2k rpm and the headlights on for the battery to actually charge. At optimal you should have at least 14.2 volts to indicate good charging. Any less than 14.2 volts means faulty alternator/wiring. Extra stuff: i would add insulating material on the + wire if you're there.
In Europe we actually use cable operated main cut-off switches, so that you can have the switch inside and a cable end outside of your car (allowing the rescue team to cut off the power purely from the outside). Something like this: inter-rally.pl/product-eng-34380-RRS-6-poles-FIA-master-switch-isolator-with-pull-cable.html For the circuit breaker you can use a BIG fuse, something like 300 Amp. As far as I recall mk1 Focus, there are some grommets inside the A pillar, but I might be totally wrong on that... For smaller gauge wires I used to use the steering column hole.
sarah,to complete your new camera,you need to diffuse your lighting,its as simple as putting a cutout piece of plastic milk carton in front of your lighting,try it,you will be surprised at the improvement in lighting quality fill light...
Might be worth not attaching the power cable until you get a cage installed just incase you have to move it when either welding or bolting the cage in. Keep up with the great work and videos
I hope you are upgrading to a sealed or vented battery and running a vent tube so when that battery starts off gassing when it gets old you aren't breathing it
(User Guide for Sarahs Channel) Step 0. activate the clock Step 1. See the notification Step 2. Click on the Video Step 3. Like the Video Step 4. Comment
You’re absolutely awesome. Do you ever coupon for your groceries? What stores do you usually shop at? Hopefully you can do some in store grocery videos showing how you shop
Thank you for taking us along as you transform Sir Codsworth; I’d never be exposed to a rally car otherwise! I love Ford, but they’re not making it easy on you 😄 Great video and love seeing your quirkiness in the garage! ❤️🐞
The more I look and listen to you the more I appreciate you for your teaching skills , you explain everything very well and in a fun way never boring, ure awesome and you have an admirer right here! Godspeed Sarah keep up the great work ! 🙂🤙
Catching up on what I still did not see before = hours of fun!
So the Battery Cut Off, it won't shut off the car because your alternator is still being driven by the engine. There is a 6 pin Cut Off Switch which you need to wire into the ignition of the car too so when you pull the bone it actually interrupts the ignition and turns off the car while also disconnecting the positive terminal. I like your videos! Cheers from Germany 🍻
FAT CAT Performance 😫 ...too late now
@@SarahnTuned I was just about to say this. You need a Battery disconnect switch with Alternator Field cut-out contacts(which are supposed to be disconnected prior to the High Current Battery contacts). Don't worry, I have a similar single contact switch in my race car, I just make sure to switch off the ignition before turning off the big red switch, lol ...I'm really enjoying this build btw :)
@@SarahnTuned Might want to check that rulebook again, some sanctioning bodies require you to have the correct shutoff switch. It would suck to show up to tech and get turned away for something that simple.
@@SarahnTuned unless you're swapping to a total loss electrical system (no alternator) you're almost certainly going to need the other style switch. I've failed so many SCCA cars for annual tech for this exact mistake.
The 6pin switches also have a resistor to dump the current to ground. Even if the kill switch kills the battery and shuts down the engine, the spinning engine will turn the alternator and generate power. The resistor will dump that power to ground. I've had to re-wire the kill switch a few times, because different tech inspectors had different opinions on how it should work. I've also fried an ECU when it was setup wrong. That took a LONG time to figure out, since the car would run but not well.
With your OCD you will have the cleanest Rally Car ever.
Make sure you have a service loop when running cables. (Extra length or some zig zag in the layout that can be used to extend or retract the length. Helps to install/remove the battery.)
Nothing short of awesome. That’s gonna be the best prepped ST170 rally car
You are amazing. You mentioned that you would like to try modeling. You have the looks for it and how about TV. You would be a hit on car programs. Great channel.
I like how you clean everything it looks grate when your done.
I like the "I saw it, I gotta fix it" stuff. Reminds me of my "I thought of it, I gotta do it" routine I use to not forget anything if I'm packing on a tight deadline.
great work Sarah, I really enjoy the videos. My Daughter and I are working on her first car, I am glad she is taking an interest in the car. she want to track a car but this one will not work for that. but we will see what the future hold..
"Bottoming out in the hole" luv it!😉
Go go Sarah, go. Boy time flies when you're having fun, huh? Same thing happens to me when I work on my car. I think it's a simple 20 minute job and it turns into 2 hours. So it goes. Love from Michigan!
LMFAO. Been a tech for 30 years. Your sense of humor and interest and seemingly knowledge of cars ect,, is cool. In a polite way an attractive young lady. First time I've seen any of your vids. I just "subbed,". Good on ya girl. Ttyl.
i love seeing your videos. Your positiveness and happiness makes my day! Greetings from your fan in Germany!
Yes safety is very important. We want you to be safe so we have someone to watch build awesome cars and stuff!
Be sure you have a quality ground cable from the engine block to the chassis firewall now that you moved the battery.
Yes, absolutely essential!
‘cause race car you should refer to the GCR! Run your wires down the center tunnel so they don’t get munged up when getting in and out of car. You go girl!! 🤘🏎🏁
Sarah the Fearless. You just don't let anything stop you, do you. Very cool!
Is it me or is it awesome to see a woman doing all of this car stuff and seeing her still take the time to do stuff like here nails! Most car guys are greasy and nasty! Love it!
The fill hole on that transmission is on the front facing side towards the bottom, there is a vent on the top/back near the shifter linkage, but unless it's worse in person than it shows up on camera, I'd spray it off and call it good.
OCD is good, keep it clean, you will then be able to see everything wrong. you will be one step ahead of others. It is all in the detail, be fussy just in a functional way. From New Zealand great channel.
Looking forward to seeing how this turns out and of course your journey into racing, thanks for showing us
The RTV on the IMRC actuator looks very old if nothing else, might still be worth pulling apart to check. If not, they used that same actuator on a few different vehicles(different cable, bust same unit) so a new one for a SVT can be a used one from a Contour or a Taurus.
It's also going to be worth checking the linkage at the manifold, if it's sticking it can give you the same fault, and also keep those runners long above 4k, which might be what you were feeling with it not wanting to rev out well.
Thank you for the circuit breaker mention, I was getting a little antsy seeing that many feet of unfused power lead.
Mondeo ST200 and 2.5V6 use same IMRC, also Cougar use the same. Dunno if you had these cars in US.
Hey Sarah one thing you have to check the rules for relocating the battery. Depending of the class that you want to run...
Good point.
Santiago Alban by the time I actually finish this thing, they’ll be racing solar powered rally cars 😂
@@SarahnTuned Dude they'll be flying Jetsons style by the time you're done.
It's a bird! It's a plane! No it's just a Camry.
I don't think the center console is going to suffice for the battery switch. They will probably want it in an area where it can be reached from outside the car, without having to reach in that far. I usually see them on the dash, near the side window
Every racing sanctioning body has it’s own rules for where those shut off switches should be, please check the rules of which your going to race in to make sure your not wasting your time.
Very cool video. I like her personality. Quirk while you work.
Sarah. You need to use a step drill to drill the bigger holes. Not a spade bit for wood. Would a bit safer on your wrist and easier. A set is pretty cheap.
WILLIAM BYRD I would never get anything done if I went to the store every time I needed something while filming 😂
Sarah -n- Tuned I understand totally, just saying for a later date. Keep the videos coming. I’m not a car guy but machine mechanic by trade love watching you work and try to think your way around issues. What a Women.!
Someone might send you a couple of them........................
2:32 nearly poked my eye out!
Nice work Sarah, can't wait for the roll cage to be installed...then it will really look like a rally car.
I was gonna say, "two hand that drill" . . . and then she said, "bottomed out in the hole". Ohhhh my gosh, you're crazy, Sarah!!! 😁😁😁👍👍👍
Great work! I forgot how cool these cars are
Sarah knows motoring stuff. Love to watch,sarah beauty. Keep up, sporty spice!!
Before you cut the wire you might want to get an idea on cage placement. Most race cars I've been around have the wire loom inside the cage to prevent severing in a crash.
vanmanpredator1 I don’t have anyone to fab a cage yet 🤷🏻♀️
@@SarahnTuned most roll cages are made from 1.25 inch to 1.75 inch diameter tube. Some go 2 inch diameter. So if you go 4 or so inches inboard it should be good.
I am a new subscriber and I'm enjoying your videos, can't wait to see you race the rally car. You're the cutest snorklemabobber ever! Thank you for your service to the USA!
No need to justify being proactive and doing a little preventative maintenance or repair. Great job on the battery relocation. Very clean install 👍🏻
I'm not reading comments to see if it's been suggested already.
When you're drilling, and you're concerned about damaging something on the other side of your work piece, you can use a drill stop, which prevents you from drilling deeper than a specified depth. They come in sets.
You'll need an externally mounted pull cable to the isolator. Dont think mounting on centre consol will cover you for access from outside. Also might need to upgrade the isolator to what they normally call an FIA spec that kills alternator power too.
@Sarah-n-Tuned: Nice Idea with the breaker switch, but I would run a Bowden cable outside the car, so in case you're stuck a marshal or viewer can shut your car off (dis-/connecting to the hole in the key of the switch)... and mark it accordingly with a red electrical flash sign on blue ground or just a red flash with your colour of the car :)
Also the circuit breaker must not be more than 30cm (about 1ft) away from the battery pole, I would suggest a ANL type of fuse, they're sturdy and available in the ratings you need for this application.
Sarah, glad you are acknowledging when and where to direct your efforts!
Stay Focus-ed ! Get it...... I thought you would appreciate that humor since its yours!!!
Great video, Sarah. I'll be interested to see the conclusion of this phase of your project; specifically, how you route the ground side of the circuit where the old ground cable was. Keep up the great work. Love your channel.
You usually use the cars frame as a link for ground. She will probably screw the battery terminal near the battery and the old battery cable somewhere in the engine bay.
Justified-The video looks really good the new camera seems to be capturing more light more shadow detail didn’t see it lose focus and the sound is good so👍 I hope it was new camera anyways if not it must’ve been the great talents of the camera girl. Entertaining as always that one went by quick can’t wait for the next one john
The shut off switch is not usable for anything else than styling and to stop battery drain while storing the car.
For a race/rally car you need a switch that cuts both the battery cable AND fuel pump power AND/OR ignition power. The car needs to shut off when you flip the switch. If you only break the battery the car will still run off the alternator...
Usually you also need to be able to reach that switch from the outside of the car, which can be done by a handle on a wire.
Love your videos, your always fun!
You should consider putting the battery cut off on the driver side A-pillar, also as others have stated you might need to change your battery set up depending on the class.
RetemVictor I could still do that, it just makes me nervous having it outside the car since I still have to drive this thing on public roads.
That car will be awesome when you're done with it. They're cool to start with.
OH, my goodness! I found myself using your phrase, "Yeah, buddy!" the other days. I think I'm becoming Sarahfied!!!! Wait, that's not a bad thing.
I love this channel so much! Great editing always. She always does it the best way very neat and clean! Keep it up!
I know it's going to be a rally racer. However, you can clean it up and make it pretty. That way it will at least look like a clean race car and everything will look new on it as well!
I actually just recently bought a 2002 Ford Focus ST170! ^^ The european version of the SVT
Keep up the good work! and don't forget some dielectric grease at all connections.
I love the MR2, probably my favorite car you have. This has to be my favorite build though. I am such a rally nut. Can't wait to see more progress!
Hope this new project helps you realise your ambition to compete in rallies. Fun wheel drive!
Thank you Sarah. Just what I needed. All for 15+ min of Sarah 👨🔧 raise hand or combination wrench that works too.
Clean it anyway. You will develop a regimen for how to clean it after you run it that will not be as "detailed" as your other cars, but will allow you to feel good, be happy, and minimize contamination when you are working under the hood.
Sarah: Thinks that relocating and rewiring a battery is an easy affair
Me: Thinks changing wiper blades is gonna be a one week project.
yungkidnf
I also get confused on changing wiper blades 🤔
Oh for god sake don’t even get me started dumb fucking Japanese engineering😂
No comment, just wanted to say Hi Sarah & this project is starting to grow on me.
I used to read on focaljet about people trying to repair those IMRC’s for the intake, and I had one fail myself in 2009. Just replace it - that one is super ghetto repaired...or since it’s going to be a race car, just replace the intake manifold with a racing manifold and get rid of the dual stage intake. A tune will eliminate the control variables and prevent a P1518
I like how funny and crazy in OCD you are
Hey Sarah! what you do is awesome and I am jealous that you are really making some cool cars! You know a lot of stuff, and I for one would love to see some short videos on some "how-to" knowledge on what you do. You get close on explaining, but I mean a bit slower and focused on particular things. I think you have a lot to teach and would love my daughter to see what you do and learn. Cheers!
Always look forward to watching your next video here in Australia.
Cheers Jeff.
Try to get the requirements for rallycars. I think to remember that the Battery shut OFF also be acceable from the outside. (No reaching into the car). The same for fire extinguishers.
Hi Sarah, have done battery relocation before Good job well explained video very educational
Best regards
Andrew
It looks a helluva lot better with the European spec radiator grill and the headlights with the built in indicators were on the facelifted Mk1.5 here in England and looked loads better than the original indicator location in the bumper. I've seen them retrofitted into Mk1's
If you are going to Rally the car I would suggest seam welding. Really stiffens up the chassis. Pain to do but worth it.
I really enjoy these videos. Just a little sad they end so quickly.
I have a ford focus my second one love these cars.
Glad to join the channel when its only 132K. Sarah keep going, keep inspiring others to make mods and car DIY things! You're doing a great job and doing this in a most beautiful way! Let's make 1M subs happen in couple months, keep subscribing and liking Sarah's videos!
When Sarah says Vicinity that means within 20 mile radius !!!!
Jon
Yass you've put the GRILL that I told you to put in!!!! and now the EAP headlight! You're making all the right decisions. Keep the battery between the two wheels though.
What grill and where to get it?
@@michaelkennedy8550 The european grill. I bought mine on ebay 12 years ago when I had the car. It's an oem part from ford. There's 2 european grills available.
So May hole jokes..so many laughs!
Great fun!
Yes, more Project Rally, looking good (as always), nothing wrong with a bit of OCD, a bit, a little bit, Sarah! Nooo! Put the OCD away, step away from the OCD, as you say RaceCar! Cracking up on the innuendos, Fun Girl, you rock! Thank you for yet another video.
P. S. But please don't burn out being a RUclipsr, we will wait on you if you need a break, rather than lose you all together.
Thanks for sharing. Great job!
Sarah. for safety sake ,and Fire safety .you should mount a metal handled kill switch(plastic key will break ) outside the car..with a remote cable attached to it so the driver can shut off the switch and some one outside the car can do the same if your Rally car is rolled over and they can not get in side the car.they will Not be able to shut it off .thanks for sharing the video
.
You shouldn't need indicators at the front when you go rallying.
Your videos are art, love watching you work. You always makes me smile.
Great job on battery relocation. Hopefully the rules in the class u want to run are ok with it
1) The Ground Battery wire needs to be attached to a big chunk of dense metal, opt for the original location or simply attach it on the gearbox (many cars have the battery ground on the gearbox). Otherwise you will have voltage losses along the circuit, the battery will not charge correctly and the alternator will be prone to failure due to voltage spikes (such as when the engine fans start). 2) You do not need a circuit breaker for the Plus wire, the length of the cable is not an issue if the wiring is done correctly. 3) When you disconnect the battery, you first disconnect the ground wire, then the +, and at reconnection you do it the other way around. For this reason, the cut-off switch needs to be placed on the ground wire. 4) While you're there, do a check on the alternator and make sure it runs in good condition (i would hazard a guess that it needs a rebuild by the looks of the car). 5) After all these are done, you should have AT MINIMUM 13.8 volts measured at the battery with the engine running, at least 2k rpm and the headlights on for the battery to actually charge. At optimal you should have at least 14.2 volts to indicate good charging. Any less than 14.2 volts means faulty alternator/wiring. Extra stuff: i would add insulating material on the + wire if you're there.
You're wrong. In a DC circuit you ALWAYS put the fuse (or switch) on the positive side of the circuit.
No, they don't say Measure once, cut twice ;) LOL
It’s actually measure twice and cut once lol love you videos
Wow young lady! Some TIGHT editing! You are the bees' knees!
In Europe we actually use cable operated main cut-off switches, so that you can have the switch inside and a cable end outside of your car (allowing the rescue team to cut off the power purely from the outside). Something like this: inter-rally.pl/product-eng-34380-RRS-6-poles-FIA-master-switch-isolator-with-pull-cable.html
For the circuit breaker you can use a BIG fuse, something like 300 Amp.
As far as I recall mk1 Focus, there are some grommets inside the A pillar, but I might be totally wrong on that... For smaller gauge wires I used to use the steering column hole.
sarah,to complete your new camera,you need to diffuse your lighting,its as simple as putting a cutout piece of plastic milk carton in front of your lighting,try it,you will be surprised at the improvement in lighting quality fill light...
michael medina I don’t have time to do that every shot, great advice though!
Check out "Autopower" for roll bar/cage kits and "Powerflex" for suspension bushings.
I would also recommend oil cooler kit systems from fsworks to replace your water oil cooler adapter will go bad.
What amazes me is how Sarah stays focused during this shit me working on my car would be hours of dilly dallying with minimal work😂😂😂😂
When mounting a battery box, a stud is most effective when it's secure and happy.
Might be worth not attaching the power cable until you get a cage installed just incase you have to move it when either welding or bolting the cage in. Keep up with the great work and videos
I like them Mille-wak-kay powr tools
I hope you are upgrading to a sealed or vented battery and running a vent tube so when that battery starts off gassing when it gets old you aren't breathing it
Thank you .. I really enjoy your content ...
Because...Racecar...
NUFF SAID! ;-)
I laughed when that battery threaded rod dropped out and “owwww”, the laugh I needed..
You should have a center console fabed up out of aluminum. It looks like it would be easy to make
Great video, thanks for sharing your progress! I just subscribed.
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The 2.0L fender badge was never put on the SVT or any focus.
Mark Simrow truth!
Love the work and tats!!! keep it up!!!
You’re absolutely awesome. Do you ever coupon for your groceries? What stores do you usually shop at? Hopefully you can do some in store grocery videos showing how you shop
Thank you for taking us along as you transform Sir Codsworth; I’d never be exposed to a rally car otherwise! I love Ford, but they’re not making it easy on you 😄
Great video and love seeing your quirkiness in the garage! ❤️🐞
Great video! You're an inspiration!
Another great vid from Sarah the great! Love u
Learning so much from you ♥️✌🏽
very nice the video as always
I congratulate you, keep it beautiful