Brings me back to RCC back in 86 under the training and guidance of Bill Broutho, with Wayne Williams. Two of the best instructors a student could ask for. It's hard to believe how much a person frogets in 35 years. Excellent explanation/ video.
thats a great video, first time I have seen that process, having rebuilt many V-6 Johnson/Evinrude powerheads. is the process for J/E powerheads different than automotive engines due to there being a bottom of the cyl ?
Thank's for the info,.. nice to see it manually measured for learning purposes. Rottler has got some good stuff,... only 1 question,... as you bore and hone 1 side,.. or bank,... the block will become warmer, (grow, maybe),... and will it effect the final measurement,... alway's wondered,..... very nice video, and very well explained,..... thank you.......
As a machine shop owner I wonder why you use an outside micrometer to measure your inside micrometer?? Why not just read the inside micrometer?? I personally have no use for inside micrometers or snap gauges because they only use 2 points of contact instead of 3 like a dial bore gauge uses. I'm not saying a inside micrometer isn't accurate but it requires lots of skill and is a lost art. Also measure the pistons with them sitting on a table rather than holding them , it's easier and far more accurate . Measuring a tapered surface like a piston skirt is also an art. Yes Rottler centering fingers make a mess when the contact the block webbing!!!!
@Hugh O'Brien Only portable boring bars use the deck surface as a reference. The Rottler uses the oil pain rails same as the factory. The deck wiul later be made concentric/ square with the main saddles.
@Hugh O'Brien the top of the block isn't necessarily square with oil pan rail or the main bores!!!! Especially on a seasoned block . I used to own a Rotler Like was used in the video. I used to mark the finger knob on top of the bar to compare the knob location between the ring ridge area and the bottom of the bore. I also do the same thing with my portable van norman bars to check for square.
I'd never machine a small block Chevy...New, they're a dime a dozen. Machine a bunch of for super duty blocks(high chrome) and damned cutting tool would wear enough from top to bottom of bore that there was a taper of > 0.005. So frustrating. That Chevy is soft cast iron. Easy peasy, lemon squeezy. Hated those Ford Supers.
Brings me back to RCC back in 86 under the training and guidance of Bill Broutho, with Wayne Williams.
Two of the best instructors a student could ask for.
It's hard to believe how much a person frogets in 35 years.
Excellent explanation/ video.
I took this program. Graduated in 2009. Butch was a really good teacher.
You the man Ray!
What a treat. The voice of experience - can't beat it. Thanks.
Very informative and well done! Thanks for showing us all of this hard to find information.
Very neat video unfortunately only 432 viewers of a video for such a valuable endeavor.
Outstanding instructor!
This is classic Rottler!!! But it is always good to learn how to handle this classic masterpiece. Thanks man!!
No......
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@@luiseduardomoreno4029 no what? That IS a good ol' boing bar and a very reliable machine. I have bored thousands of blocks with them.
great job at explaining the setup and boring process
A very interesting and noligable and interesting show hope they have more like it some people have such knowledge.
Please show more shows like this ng
I was never bored and I looked at the entire video ! great!😊😊
Heh heh, that IS a requirement.
Nicely explained! Excellent equipment you have!!! You should be a shop teacher in college!!!
College is so unrealisticly expensive, He should teach at a two year, so more folks have the opportunity.
I am rebuilding my Evinrude 115 that had stuck rings causing low compression in one cylinder. Great information !!
Excellent job !!!!!
What a great video, thank you.
Thank you, Sir. I did learn a lot from this video! Please keep 'em coming!
I have one of those rottler fa2eb boring machines. It will cut out .120 at a time when cutting for sleeves.
well done... and much appreciated. Thank you.
If a cylinder is out of round, will the 4 centering fingers do an adequate job of finding center?
Everyday is a school day even at 40. Shame the last few seconds were knocked off (just my ocd talking 🤣) you earned a new sub today 👍🏾
Spent a few years on the same Rottler borer but we had Sunnen hones CK 10, CV 616 and i think they have a SV 10 now
Interesting tutorial 👍
thats a great video, first time I have seen that process, having rebuilt many V-6 Johnson/Evinrude powerheads. is the process for J/E powerheads different than automotive engines due to there being a bottom of the cyl ?
I appreciate this sooo much!!!
Yikes! You’re relying on the pan rails to ensure the deck/main housing bore is square to the boring bar column?
Thank's for the info,.. nice to see it manually measured for learning purposes. Rottler has got some good stuff,... only 1 question,... as you bore and hone 1 side,.. or bank,... the block will become warmer, (grow, maybe),... and will it effect the final measurement,... alway's wondered,..... very nice video, and very well explained,..... thank you.......
Has anyone ever used one of those tables that the kwik way boring bar is sitting on? I think it let's you more off of the mains.
Depending on the design of the table yes. I had a cradle and stand for an old kwik way that worked great.
Great
👌👍
Is this school in wa state?
As a machine shop owner I wonder why you use an outside micrometer to measure your inside micrometer?? Why not just read the inside micrometer?? I personally have no use for inside micrometers or snap gauges because they only use 2 points of contact instead of 3 like a dial bore gauge uses. I'm not saying a inside micrometer isn't accurate but it requires lots of skill and is a lost art. Also measure the pistons with them sitting on a table rather than holding them , it's easier and far more accurate . Measuring a tapered surface like a piston skirt is also an art. Yes Rottler centering fingers make a mess when the contact the block webbing!!!!
@Hugh O'Brien Only portable boring bars use the deck surface as a reference. The Rottler uses the oil pain rails same as the factory. The deck wiul later be made concentric/ square with the main saddles.
@Hugh O'Brien the top of the block isn't necessarily square with oil pan rail or the main bores!!!! Especially on a seasoned block . I used to own a Rotler Like was used in the video. I used to mark the finger knob on top of the bar to compare the knob location between the ring ridge area and the bottom of the bore. I also do the same thing with my portable van norman bars to check for square.
He's probably doing that so that he's measuring using the same micrometer as the one he's also using to measure the piston skirt sizes.
How much do you leave for hooning
i read a article in engine builder magazine, the guy said .003 thousandths
.002 minimum to .004 max is usually fine from my experience
Use a dial bore gage. Much easier and better picture faster
I'd never machine a small block Chevy...New, they're a dime a dozen. Machine a bunch of for super duty blocks(high chrome) and damned cutting tool would wear enough from top to bottom of bore that there was a taper of > 0.005. So frustrating. That Chevy is soft cast iron. Easy peasy, lemon squeezy. Hated those Ford Supers.
Great