Curious if you measured your logic hi when sensor is plugged into MKS Sbase. I'm seeing 3.7V high with a 10K from Signal to Gnd. I would expect 10K/(10K+10K) * 12V = 6V with an NPN inductive probe that has internal 10K pullup and is powered by 12V. I also measured 1.2 Kohm between signal and grnd of end limit connector on MKS Sbase board with no power and no switch or inductive probe attached. Was the same for all end limit connectors. 1.2K/(10K+1.2K) * 12V = 1.28V which is not 3.7V. This also has me confused. I'm aware 6V will damage the controller but since there is something pulling down to 3.7V as well as it functionally works I believe their might be some sort of protection circuitry on the MKS board that pulls on the logic level.
Hi i no this video is from a few year ago but how did you wire up the probe ie 12v + and - from power supply and signal to the board I am cunfused how you wired the probe up please help
is that a PNP probe? I am having trouble getting it to work... is it because it is working off the 5V from the endstop plug or do you need to connect it to 12 VDC....
The probe i was using is a NPN i believe. Check your probe to see if its got a 10k internal resistor or not and use a voltage dropper on the sensor signal out of the probe to the endstop sensor pin on your board. If the sensor isn't working correctly at 5v, its probably under voltage and needs to be on the 12v rail. Just remember to put a voltage dropper in as the signal coming out of the sensor as it will also be 12v so you need to drop it down to 5v for the signal into your board or you will end up damaging your control board.
@@BryceStandley OK I think you missed my meaning...the probe works and shows triggered when triggered but the fermware still crashes into the bed... Even with the proper settings as far as I can tell... This was different on my other printer it stopped almost 8mm away from the aluminum bed... No idea what I am doing wrong I even re downloaded a fresh copy of marlin and still the same problem... I you test that by putting the multimeter on resistance between the black and brown wire right . I am going to try powering the probe with 12vdc from the rail....with the 2 resistor setup tom describes I wanted help finding the bad line in the code that is not seeing the probe but allows the probe to be detected with a M119 command. If the probe was not working you would not get a reading right... I get a reading and it says the probe is there but when I home the printer it crashes into the bed... I have tryed the settings five times and the fermware still will not see the probe but it tells me it's WOrking what kind of fed up logic is that???
Oh ok, you didn't mention that before but if it will show triggered and open with m119 then there will be a miss configure with how marlin is handling home in general. I've seen something similar before in smoothieware and it had something to do with the direction that it was set to home in and if it was to home negative to 0. Check all your homing settings and endstop settings. I haven't personally set up the marlin firmware for probes before so I can't say with any certainty but comb through your marlin config and check all your settings as its most likely a setting unrelated to the probe thats causing the issue.
@@BryceStandley wats worse I think I have the Polarity wrong and Effed up the sensor... but that is unlikely they unit would light up at 5VDC now It will not light up at all the +VDC is 14.75 and the probe can handle 32VDC I should see a Voltage of 6.75 G to + untriggered and 3.75VDC triggered but I get nothing I even tested a Stock unit and still get nothing... they cant both be bad right???
The chance of both being damaged is possible but unlikely, if the probe would light up and trigger at 5v but now it doesn't and your voltages are out of wack, it could be a faulty probe or it could be a damaged controller board but I would assume the probe first. It might be worth checking with a new probe?
Could you help me understand? The bltouch has 3 wires that go to the servo and 2 that go to the endstop -Z, where the inductive sensor uses only one signal wire that goes to the endstop -Z as well. Why does the BLtouch need to power on the servo and the inductive does not? You could also use the voltage regulator 7805. Powering the sensor with 12 volts and the sensor only output entering a resistor in the regulator and use the regulator output as signal.
So the BL Touch uses 3 wires for the control of the pin and the other 2 for the sensor that triggers when the pin is pressed. The 2 signal wires on the Bl Touch are the same as 2 of the wires on a inductive sensor as one is ground and the other is signal. Because the sensor in the BL touch has a isolated ground you need to connect it to the z endstop as well as the signal wire. Inductive sensors dont use any moving parts so they dont need to extend or retract any thing due to the way they sense the build surface. Inductive sensors only really work well on metal print surfaces, where as the BL touch using a physical pin can sense any build platform so it requires the sensor pin to be dropped for sensing and the pulled back up so it doesnt clash the print. To use a voltage regulator for the inductive sensor, it may work but im not sure how it would react as you would need it to be on the output of the sensor and the regulator may not provide accurate data for the printer. I cover using a voltage divider with an inductive sensor on this video: ruclips.net/video/fuNBkAESLwM/видео.html
+tweedman1975 yeah, every probe is different. How is the 12v working? Are you using the sensor connected directly to the 12v input of the board? I couldn't do that with out a divider to drop the voltage on the signal
Haha, i dont have the wifi module as i dont really use the MKS tft screen that the module plugs into but i can get one and make a video on how to set it up!
Typically yes, but again, check with your particular one as some might have a internal 10k resistor and some won't. Also check as your sensor might work at 5v so you won't need to step down the voltage
Hello! My sensor is an SN104-N. It is working with the original board. On my MKS Gen L it doesn't trigger, but the LED is alight, when I put metal below. I tried soldering this resistor, but it didn't help for me. I measured 50k Ohm from black to blue without any power connected, as I don't have tne cables or a power supply for doing this. Do I need to have power supplied to the sensor when measuring this resistance?
Some things to check: 1. The voltage on the output, if you power the sensor with 12v you should get 5v un-triggered and a large drop to around 0.5v when triggered. 2. Firmware config. You could be reverse triggering the sensor in firmware so it might thing its always triggered and then it does trigger the firmware things its un-triggered, Try inverting your endstop in firmware 3. The supply voltage, ensure its 12v or if you can get the sensor to work at 5v you can. if the sensor works at 5v correctly then no additional resistors are needed. If you have to run it at 12/24v ensure that your 2nd resistor for the divider is accurate. if your sensor has a 50k resistor internally (odd normally 10k) then you need to have somewhere around a 35.714k resistor to get the 5v, You dont need power to the sensor to measure the resistance of the internal resistor, you should be doing this between the Ground and Signal wires of the sensor. Note if you actually do have a 10k internal resistor, then use a 4.8k resistor between Ground and Signal to get the 5v for a signal, dont allow more than 5v for a signal as you can kill your board
Hello! Thank you for helping! In between I have been fiddling with the device, using the 24V and GND coming from my MKS Gen L for powering the sensor. When the sensor was powered, there actually was low resistance (shorted) between blue and black. So I thought I had to use two resistors. I found a combination of two resistors (9k for R1 and 2.8k for R2), that gave a voltage of 4.8V in the end when not triggered, and 0V when triggered. Everything fine I thought. But after removing GND from the 24V plug and plugging in the sensor into Z-Min, so it had GND from that port, it wouldn't trigger anymore. I then measured with the sensor plugged it and got 5V when not trigegrd and 10Volts(!) when triggered, This lead me to checking the GND of the Z-Min-Port. And yes: The Z-Min port on this board ist not on the same potential as the GND on the 24V plug. There's an offset of 5Volts between the Z-Min-GND and the 24V-GND. How do I solve this problem that The Z-Min plug has it's own GND? Should I simply remove GND from the plug also and wire it directly to the GNd of the 24V plug, or would this damage the board? Thank you! :)
+ElMariachi no this should be fine to do, the seperate grounds could be a method to seperate some components. Wiring direct from power and ground and then just use the signal into the board should be ok
It doesn't work :( I'm totally clueless now! All I did was swapping the sensor's GND to the GND of the 24V plug instead of the Z-Min plug's GND. Now there's no vltage at all between signal pin an the plug's GND. And when I measured voltage between signal out and 24V I actually had 48Volts! :(
+solidus784 when using a probe with smoothieware, IV not used a endstop in conjunction with a probe, I just use the probe to set the z height and probe the bed for compensation
Thanks mate I think i have it figured out now myself the prob now is I have a pnp proximity sensor and there are physical pullups on endstops instead of software ones so I could possibly map it to another pin without a pullup resistor but being a lazy bastard I just ordered a npn one and set up a temp z axis endstop till it arrives
Hi Guy, i need to use the smoothieboard v1 to control 3 steps motor, 3 endswitch and 3 servo motor. But i never used before. can you tell me please how to connect it to the computer or how to use it? Do i need another sofware or microcontroller to control the Board? what are the differents steps till i run the first programm please? Kind regards
+Axel Njuegang Njouongoua Ok, before you connect your smoothieboard you need to get a micro SD card and go to the smoothieware website and download the latest firmware and config file and follow the instructions provided. to connect the board to your PC you just need a USB type B cable to plug into the USB port on the Smoothie board. Then you can just plug the other end of the cable into your PC. After a few seconds the board would have booted off the SD card and flashed the updated firmware and now should show the SD card as a removable disc in windows or Mac. After you've updated the firmware. Disconnect the USB from the board and connect your stepper motors to the stepper motor 4pin connectors and connect your endstops to the 3pin endstop connectors. Servos are a little more involved but can be done. I suggest looking at the smoothieware site for information about it. After you've connected everything get a schematic of the board and take note of the pin numbers you connected to the control pins of the servos, you don't need to do this for the steppers or endstops as the defaults are fine. Once you note the pins, connect the board to your PC and open the config file on the SD card. The config file is where you configure everything no external programmers needed. From here you can add the extra config lines for servo control and modify their enable pins to communicate with it. After saving your config file, make sure you disconnect your USB and have a proper 12-24v power supply connected to the board and turn it on. The board will power up and you can now reconnect the USB and communicate with the board using pronterface or other software. Note you need to have the extra power supply to run the steppers and servos otherwise they won't move because the USB power isn't intended and isnt meant to be use to more the powerfull steppers. Hope this helps but the smoothieware website is the best source of information. :)
thx you guy.. this will really help me!... so, for the servo..it´s possible, just i have to look which pins i used for...so i don´t need any extra sofware and microcontroller as "arduino or raspery"? can i control the smoothieboard with Labview(it´s a graphic programming language)?
+Axel Njuegang Njouongoua No problem. Yes! You can drive the servos directly off the board you just need to connect them to 5v and ground off the smoothieboard and then connect the signal pin to a free Aux pin and then edit the config to use the servo control on that pin. Typically in form of say 1.28 which I'm the config is the pin for z min signal. For controlling the board, IV never heard of LabVIEW but there's plenty of programs out there to use. Just remember that to drive the board you'll need a g code file or a program that connects to the board and allows you to send g code seperated. If youre using the board for something that needs looping actions, an Arduino or raspberry pi with additional motor drivers are the best way to go as iv never seen any one do that with a g code file. Some programs to use are the mach3 software or pronterface bit slot of free 3d printing software has a control panel built in to control the board over USB
hi Bryce, thanks for the video. I'm trying to make my Hypercube working with MKS Sbase + BLTouch, but not getting anywhere. I was thinking to give a it try and use inductive sensor I have. Can you please share with me your config file, either BLTouch or inductive configured one. Would really appreciate it. thanks
+Matej Stavina sure thing! This link will give you my BLTouch set up note the servo section and the probe sections. For a inductive sensor you really don't need to change the config but you best of set the probe settings to allow a probe to do level methods. www.dropbox.com/sh/fnwsamo3dd91bug/AADkqkMyjNc_p3Y33wHqqTnNa?dl=0
ived tried everything from diode, to resistor, and even optocoupler. ive done 1.28!^, 1.28^, 1.28v with no results. the light on the sensor is always on then when it senses it turns off? asking for advice i dont know what else to try on this SBASE
+Davey C when testing the probe with 12v does the light on the top light up bright when you trigger it? If yes then it may be a config thing but if not it could possibly be a dead probe.
Curious if you measured your logic hi when sensor is plugged into MKS Sbase. I'm seeing 3.7V high with a 10K from Signal to Gnd. I would expect 10K/(10K+10K) * 12V = 6V with an NPN inductive probe that has internal 10K pullup and is powered by 12V. I also measured 1.2 Kohm between signal and grnd of end limit connector on MKS Sbase board with no power and no switch or inductive probe attached. Was the same for all end limit connectors. 1.2K/(10K+1.2K) * 12V = 1.28V which is not 3.7V. This also has me confused. I'm aware 6V will damage the controller but since there is something pulling down to 3.7V as well as it functionally works I believe their might be some sort of protection circuitry on the MKS board that pulls on the logic level.
Hi i no this video is from a few year ago but how did you wire up the probe ie 12v + and - from power supply and signal to the board I am cunfused how you wired the probe up please help
WOULD you be able to make a video ideally along the same overall formula but for a TWO wire nc proximity sensor please...?
great tutto
could you make an another for end filament sensor?
+eclampsie I can definately!
great it s nice
other tutto which will be great for beginners: how tu upgrad mks tft screen
By upgrade, are you refering to updating the firmware or being able to upgrade from a reprap display to the MKS tft?
is that a PNP probe? I am having trouble getting it to work... is it because it is working off the 5V from the endstop plug or do you need to connect it to 12 VDC....
The probe i was using is a NPN i believe. Check your probe to see if its got a 10k internal resistor or not and use a voltage dropper on the sensor signal out of the probe to the endstop sensor pin on your board. If the sensor isn't working correctly at 5v, its probably under voltage and needs to be on the 12v rail. Just remember to put a voltage dropper in as the signal coming out of the sensor as it will also be 12v so you need to drop it down to 5v for the signal into your board or you will end up damaging your control board.
@@BryceStandley OK I think you missed my meaning...the probe works and shows triggered when triggered but the fermware still crashes into the bed... Even with the proper settings as far as I can tell... This was different on my other printer it stopped almost 8mm away from the aluminum bed... No idea what I am doing wrong I even re downloaded a fresh copy of marlin and still the same problem... I you test that by putting the multimeter on resistance between the black and brown wire right . I am going to try powering the probe with 12vdc from the rail....with the 2 resistor setup tom describes I wanted help finding the bad line in the code that is not seeing the probe but allows the probe to be detected with a M119 command. If the probe was not working you would not get a reading right... I get a reading and it says the probe is there but when I home the printer it crashes into the bed... I have tryed the settings five times and the fermware still will not see the probe but it tells me it's WOrking what kind of fed up logic is that???
Oh ok, you didn't mention that before but if it will show triggered and open with m119 then there will be a miss configure with how marlin is handling home in general. I've seen something similar before in smoothieware and it had something to do with the direction that it was set to home in and if it was to home negative to 0. Check all your homing settings and endstop settings. I haven't personally set up the marlin firmware for probes before so I can't say with any certainty but comb through your marlin config and check all your settings as its most likely a setting unrelated to the probe thats causing the issue.
@@BryceStandley wats worse I think I have the Polarity wrong and Effed up the sensor... but that is unlikely they unit would light up at 5VDC now It will not light up at all the +VDC is 14.75 and the probe can handle 32VDC I should see a Voltage of 6.75 G to + untriggered and 3.75VDC triggered but I get nothing I even tested a Stock unit and still get nothing... they cant both be bad right???
The chance of both being damaged is possible but unlikely, if the probe would light up and trigger at 5v but now it doesn't and your voltages are out of wack, it could be a faulty probe or it could be a damaged controller board but I would assume the probe first. It might be worth checking with a new probe?
Could you help me understand?
The bltouch has 3 wires that go to the servo and 2 that go to the endstop -Z, where the inductive sensor uses only one signal wire that goes to the endstop -Z as well.
Why does the BLtouch need to power on the servo and the inductive does not?
You could also use the voltage regulator
7805.
Powering the sensor with 12 volts and the sensor only output entering a resistor in the regulator and use the regulator output as signal.
So the BL Touch uses 3 wires for the control of the pin and the other 2 for the sensor that triggers when the pin is pressed. The 2 signal wires on the Bl Touch are the same as 2 of the wires on a inductive sensor as one is ground and the other is signal. Because the sensor in the BL touch has a isolated ground you need to connect it to the z endstop as well as the signal wire.
Inductive sensors dont use any moving parts so they dont need to extend or retract any thing due to the way they sense the build surface. Inductive sensors only really work well on metal print surfaces, where as the BL touch using a physical pin can sense any build platform so it requires the sensor pin to be dropped for sensing and the pulled back up so it doesnt clash the print.
To use a voltage regulator for the inductive sensor, it may work but im not sure how it would react as you would need it to be on the output of the sensor and the regulator may not provide accurate data for the printer.
I cover using a voltage divider with an inductive sensor on this video: ruclips.net/video/fuNBkAESLwM/видео.html
Bryce Standley 3D Printing!
Thank you
I'm using a NPN capacitive sensor straight into my Mks ( 12v and Z min pin) and having awesome results , both with aluminum and glass over it.
+tweedman1975 yeah, every probe is different. How is the 12v working? Are you using the sensor connected directly to the 12v input of the board? I couldn't do that with out a divider to drop the voltage on the signal
Not possible without limiting the voltage. You would fry the board
Can you write down the technical number of the capacitive sensor that you are using?
where we need to plug pt100 sensor on this board?
I do believe you can connect the PT100 to a ADC pin, typically 1.30 or 1.31 as referenced in this smoothieware page, smoothieware.org/pt100
yes but do we need an external module or not for sksbase :)
From what I know you can only use the E3D PT100 sensor with smoothieware and you do require the E3D PT100 Amplifier board.
are you already test wifi module for skm sbase? a video about it could be great too!i have so many idea ;)
Haha, i dont have the wifi module as i dont really use the MKS tft screen that the module plugs into but i can get one and make a video on how to set it up!
The same process for a capacitive sensor?
Typically yes, but again, check with your particular one as some might have a internal 10k resistor and some won't. Also check as your sensor might work at 5v so you won't need to step down the voltage
Hello!
My sensor is an SN104-N. It is working with the original board.
On my MKS Gen L it doesn't trigger, but the LED is alight, when I put metal below.
I tried soldering this resistor, but it didn't help for me. I measured 50k Ohm from black to blue without any power connected, as I don't have tne cables or a power supply for doing this.
Do I need to have power supplied to the sensor when measuring this resistance?
Some things to check:
1. The voltage on the output, if you power the sensor with 12v you should get 5v un-triggered and a large drop to around 0.5v when triggered.
2. Firmware config. You could be reverse triggering the sensor in firmware so it might thing its always triggered and then it does trigger the firmware things its un-triggered, Try inverting your endstop in firmware
3. The supply voltage, ensure its 12v or if you can get the sensor to work at 5v you can. if the sensor works at 5v correctly then no additional resistors are needed. If you have to run it at 12/24v ensure that your 2nd resistor for the divider is accurate. if your sensor has a 50k resistor internally (odd normally 10k) then you need to have somewhere around a 35.714k resistor to get the 5v, You dont need power to the sensor to measure the resistance of the internal resistor, you should be doing this between the Ground and Signal wires of the sensor. Note if you actually do have a 10k internal resistor, then use a 4.8k resistor between Ground and Signal to get the 5v for a signal, dont allow more than 5v for a signal as you can kill your board
Hello!
Thank you for helping!
In between I have been fiddling with the device, using the 24V and GND coming from my MKS Gen L for powering the sensor. When the sensor was powered, there actually was low resistance (shorted) between blue and black. So I thought I had to use two resistors. I found a combination of two resistors (9k for R1 and 2.8k for R2), that gave a voltage of 4.8V in the end when not triggered, and 0V when triggered. Everything fine I thought.
But after removing GND from the 24V plug and plugging in the sensor into Z-Min, so it had GND from that port, it wouldn't trigger anymore. I then measured with the sensor plugged it and got 5V when not trigegrd and 10Volts(!) when triggered, This lead me to checking the GND of the Z-Min-Port. And yes: The Z-Min port on this board ist not on the same potential as the GND on the 24V plug. There's an offset of 5Volts between the Z-Min-GND and the 24V-GND.
How do I solve this problem that The Z-Min plug has it's own GND?
Should I simply remove GND from the plug also and wire it directly to the GNd of the 24V plug, or would this damage the board?
Thank you! :)
+ElMariachi no this should be fine to do, the seperate grounds could be a method to seperate some components. Wiring direct from power and ground and then just use the signal into the board should be ok
Thank you! I will report if it worked :)
It doesn't work :( I'm totally clueless now!
All I did was swapping the sensor's GND to the GND of the 24V plug instead of the Z-Min plug's GND.
Now there's no vltage at all between signal pin an the plug's GND. And when I measured voltage between signal out and 24V I actually had 48Volts!
:(
thanks i didnt think it would be this easy, You rock man
No problem, Im here to help :)
Did you have to use a seperate endstop for homing the z axis just changed from a ramps and having trouble figuring out the smoothieware setup
+solidus784 when using a probe with smoothieware, IV not used a endstop in conjunction with a probe, I just use the probe to set the z height and probe the bed for compensation
Thanks mate I think i have it figured out now myself the prob now is I have a pnp proximity sensor and there are physical pullups on endstops instead of software ones so I could possibly map it to another pin without a pullup resistor but being a lazy bastard I just ordered a npn one and set up a temp z axis endstop till it arrives
umm interesting, but can you sharew configurations for MKS Robin Nano with version 2.0.3.2 = thanks in advance !
Hi Guy,
i need to use the smoothieboard v1 to control 3 steps motor, 3 endswitch and 3 servo motor. But i never used before. can you tell me please how to connect it to the computer or how to use it? Do i need another sofware or microcontroller to control the Board? what are the differents steps till i run the first programm please?
Kind regards
+Axel Njuegang Njouongoua Ok, before you connect your smoothieboard you need to get a micro SD card and go to the smoothieware website and download the latest firmware and config file and follow the instructions provided.
to connect the board to your PC you just need a USB type B cable to plug into the USB port on the Smoothie board. Then you can just plug the other end of the cable into your PC. After a few seconds the board would have booted off the SD card and flashed the updated firmware and now should show the SD card as a removable disc in windows or Mac.
After you've updated the firmware. Disconnect the USB from the board and connect your stepper motors to the stepper motor 4pin connectors and connect your endstops to the 3pin endstop connectors. Servos are a little more involved but can be done. I suggest looking at the smoothieware site for information about it. After you've connected everything get a schematic of the board and take note of the pin numbers you connected to the control pins of the servos, you don't need to do this for the steppers or endstops as the defaults are fine. Once you note the pins, connect the board to your PC and open the config file on the SD card. The config file is where you configure everything no external programmers needed.
From here you can add the extra config lines for servo control and modify their enable pins to communicate with it. After saving your config file, make sure you disconnect your USB and have a proper 12-24v power supply connected to the board and turn it on. The board will power up and you can now reconnect the USB and communicate with the board using pronterface or other software. Note you need to have the extra power supply to run the steppers and servos otherwise they won't move because the USB power isn't intended and isnt meant to be use to more the powerfull steppers.
Hope this helps but the smoothieware website is the best source of information. :)
thx you guy.. this will really help me!...
so, for the servo..it´s possible, just i have to look which pins i used for...so i don´t need any extra sofware and microcontroller as "arduino or raspery"?
can i control the smoothieboard with Labview(it´s a graphic programming language)?
+Axel Njuegang Njouongoua No problem. Yes! You can drive the servos directly off the board you just need to connect them to 5v and ground off the smoothieboard and then connect the signal pin to a free Aux pin and then edit the config to use the servo control on that pin. Typically in form of say 1.28 which I'm the config is the pin for z min signal.
For controlling the board, IV never heard of LabVIEW but there's plenty of programs out there to use. Just remember that to drive the board you'll need a g code file or a program that connects to the board and allows you to send g code seperated. If youre using the board for something that needs looping actions, an Arduino or raspberry pi with additional motor drivers are the best way to go as iv never seen any one do that with a g code file. Some programs to use are the mach3 software or pronterface bit slot of free 3d printing software has a control panel built in to control the board over USB
thx again..for any other question..i will come again.
let´s try this first!
+Axel Njuegang Njouongoua no problem :)
Thank you guy, you just saved me a lot of time
Leandro De Medeiros Passos No problem :)
a trick: you can watch movies on flixzone. I've been using it for watching loads of movies recently.
@Desmond Samuel yea, I have been watching on Flixzone} for months myself :)
@Desmond Samuel yea, I've been watching on flixzone} for since november myself =)
you really do a tutto for endfilament sensor it will be great
look at aliexpress they sell some
+eclampsie IV seen a few but I'll design a better one
hi Bryce, thanks for the video. I'm trying to make my Hypercube working with MKS Sbase + BLTouch, but not getting anywhere. I was thinking to give a it try and use inductive sensor I have. Can you please share with me your config file, either BLTouch or inductive configured one. Would really appreciate it. thanks
+Matej Stavina sure thing! This link will give you my BLTouch set up note the servo section and the probe sections. For a inductive sensor you really don't need to change the config but you best of set the probe settings to allow a probe to do level methods.
www.dropbox.com/sh/fnwsamo3dd91bug/AADkqkMyjNc_p3Y33wHqqTnNa?dl=0
thanks Bryce. will try it this evening.
+Matej Stavina no problem :)
Thanks, many useful tips in your channel, keep this good work.
+Alexander Beuting Campos no problem :) thank you:)
Any idea why my no matter doesnt work.
Are you drawing 12v from on board main +12~24V-, or from the Z MIN?
ived tried everything from diode, to resistor, and even optocoupler. ive done 1.28!^, 1.28^, 1.28v with no results. the light on the sensor is always on then when it senses it turns off? asking for advice i dont know what else to try on this SBASE
LJC18A3-H-Z/BX is the sensor im tring to use
+Davey C when testing the probe with 12v does the light on the top light up bright when you trigger it? If yes then it may be a config thing but if not it could possibly be a dead probe.
The light is ON bright, but when the Sensor detects it triggers and turns off the RED LED