the out take has the best wisdom, you really can get in your head working by yourself. having a peer to talk to, work with etc can make a huge difference.
Tip Scott for cabinet feet, Don't put all 4 adjustable feet on the cabinet attach a rail to the wall level at the height of the bottom of the cabinets. Then with feet only on the front adjust the cabinet level. this allows you to have the strong level base to the back. Then shim or not the back uppers and connect to the wall.
Hey mate, at our workshop, we tend to rough cut everything 10-15mm oversize and come back to get them to the right size when they're smaller manageable pieces. That way, you also minimize the chipping.
Love Ray’s comment .. Scott nearly gave me a hug!!!😂I also love hvg the exposed plywood … it is so stylish .. well thought out Scott. Jess your flower overalls look good too..💐😎💐😎
Always cut face side down with with zero clearance insert. Two cuts. First cut is a scoring cut about 2mm deep. Then raise the blade a millimeter or two above the thickness. This will give you the best cut. Not that you need my help with anything. Love this channel, I've learned so much from you!
With a 2mm gap between doors/drawers, you can't tell what colour the carcass edge is. And with the feet bases, it's best to overlap the ends/backs so that you don't push the bottom out of the cupboard. And when you have cupboards next to each other you can make them share a leg. Less legs needed and when you are down on the floor adjusting the legs, there are less of them to adjust!
Hey Scott. Quite common for laminated sheet material to have a fair amount of tension in them. Not sure what the science behind it is but an old machinery engineer said the best thing to combat the problem is to cut everything 10mm to big then trim to size. We used to do this when cutting tall wardrobe doors so the edges were perfectly straight.
its due to the fact that heat is used to press the veneer/paper onto the faces and it sucks all the moisture out of them but because they are a 2440x1220 sheet they cant move till cut
Ray❤❤❤❤ Melamine glue Scott! As a former cabinet maker I'm underwhelmed, but as a longtime builder, I know those cabs will be more than strong enough. Love the exposed edge too!
Great stuff - as always on this channel. I’m doing my apprenticeship and every week my boss asks me “so what’s Scott been doing now?” and I see a smile on his face when I’m describing the latest episode with my eyes wide open:-) Please give Ray a big hug in the next one - he’s great, I’m happy every time he’s on. And Jess … Jess is just awesome! Give her a hug too!:-)
Hi Scott, I'd step the back panel in around 50/70mm so it leaves you with a void in the back, good for running pipes/cables and for plumbing up you've got less contact against the wall if its out of plumb/level
It’s called a gullet! You want your gullet above your material so that it cleans itself ! Good choice of blade ! Yes I am a finish carpenter/ cabinet maker!
Love the simplicity of exposing the plywood edge. Also, most cabinets now days is chipboard, the plywood will be very superior and strong with your "pinning" approach.
Freud makes an awesome melamine/plywood blade that makes razor sharp cuts, FYI, I was taught to keep the height set to the bottom of the gullet ( circle thing?) of the blade. Also, zero clearance saw insert prevents chip out along with keeping the material down on the table (feather boards?). Excited to see them installed!
I work in a joinery across the ditch. I’m not a cabinet maker, so not sure the reasoning, but we inset the backs. Sides are full depth full height, with the back full height but inset between the two sides, and base and top if applicable, also between the sides, and I front of the back. My guess is because when screwing together this way, it has more strength when screwing the back to the wall. Probably more important for the overheads that all the weight is on the back. We also use a ladder frame to sit the base cabinets on (when floor is pretty good) so you are only levelling up once, not every box. Love how it’s all coming together. Saturday mornings are the best start of the week.
Great to see you getting on with the units. The only piece of advice I'd give is to construct the sink unit with the front rail being vertical instead of horizontal, that should save having to cut into the rail when it comes to fitting the sink. All the best
Scott, a few years back I installed a set of frameless cabinets in a 100 year old house. I ended up using a laser leveled cleat at the wall and the adjustable legs in the front, it made super simple to drop them in and level across the front.
I love the exposed plywood. That is the best feature of plywood in my opinion. Never mind it is stronger and lighter than fiber core. Sure fiber core wouldn't pinch your blade, but you just need a riving knife on your saw. I've never seen melamine plywood before. I would have used prefinished (clear) maple plywood here.
How exciting, your kitchen is taking shape Scott and welcome back Ray your definitely needed for this phase and you have been missed in the videos too. Can't wait to watch 'Part 2' (",)
Set your blade so the teeth are just above your material. As the blade dulls, you can raise the blade to maintain the cut quality on the top of your material, but the quality on the bottom will be compromised. It is best to cut parts that are exposed on both faces when your blade is sharp. Like shelves and the bottoms of your upper cabinet. Cut parts of lower visibility later in the process when the blade has dulled. Most parts will only be visible from one side so keep track of which face will be visible in the finished product. This face should always face up when cutting on the tablesaw.
First thing I saw was something weird behind Scott, sorry Jesse. Nice garden Jesse and you scared me when you were helping with the saw, must have been camera angle. Cabinet edging looks nice. Thank you and have a great week.
I reckon you're pretty right about strength on all those carcasses with just pins & screws. If you thought they were a bit floppy one thing you could do is once its pinned up drill some holes for dowels as well as screws which would stiffen it up a bit. I'm no cabinet maker but i've done that before and because you can just drill all the way through from the hidden face, then trim the excess dowel flush afterwards its a quick win. As long as you get the alignment of your drill bit good when making the hole its just one pass then squeeze a bit of glue and tap the dowel in. Much easier than having to drill a hole into each piece and hope you've matched them perfectly.
Hey Scott, I have been following you for some time now. I love that you have your wife & friend included in your segments. You & your wife are a lovely couple! In my younger days I was a trim carpenter and have been a Makita guy day one! So many Makita miter saws have been in my possession....and they worked wonderfully.....I kept my original Makita chop saw but mostly use my 40 volt 8-1/4 Miter saw now. Your cabinets with a plywood core.......simply love this choice!!! Here in the United States, I have never seen such a product available. Thanks for all your segments......love the house and all you have done. Great work!
I'm a cabinet maker and have a worked at a few different places over 15 years, all of which build them differently. So at the end of the day, there's no right or wrong way.
Also a cabinet maker, and I agree, there’s no right/wrong way, but there is a better or worse way. I would consider Scott’s cabinets to be shop-grade and rudimentary, one step below Ikea. For a kitchen, to make the cases, I use thicker (stronger) plywood, joinery (biscuits, dowels, floating tenons, whatever), glue, and screws. And I always make solid wood (usually maple if painted) face frames, again with the aforementioned joinery. The doors are inset frame & panel, and the drawers are dovetailed. That’s the gold standard for a durable, hard-working kitchen. This is not a criticism for Scott’s choices, it’s his kitchen and he can do what he damn well pleases. I love the channel and his work.
This is pretty much how we build cabinets in our shop, where most of our work is high end custom residential cabinetry. The only difference is that because we need higher throughput, we have a CNC router cutting the parts and an end boring machine that drills for dowels and confirmat screws. If I had to cut cabinets by hand, this is exactly how I would go about it! Cheers from Victoria, BC, Canada
Track saw with some parallel clamps is definitely the better tool for rip cutting your ply. Even if you go oversize and then final rip on the table saw, it will be far easier to manage than trying to rip huge sheets on the table.
Has no one commented on Jess’s amazing flower outfit in the beginning of the video?!?!? If you want to grow a flower you have to be a flower…:) ps the workshop is getting legit!!!
Love it! Between jobs in recession of early 1990s UK, I scratch built a kitchen for a friend. She stipulated no chipboard and doors open 270⁰ flat against next cabinet so children couldn't push them out of their hinges. Used 18mm WBP plywood with several coats of yacht varnish and very long 6mm screws into 5.5mm pilot holes, exposed ply ends. Looked good as new 25 years later when she moved and looked right for her 19th century terraced house. A friend used plywood, cut to size by the timber merchant, Selco, and Ikea doors. Worked great
Just note if you're having things designed trans-tasman, Australian drawing standards are different to NZ. For example a door swing in elevation will indicate forwards the opening rather than the hinges.
Hi Scott, loving the videos...good idea to make a zero clearence insert for the saw to reduce tearout on the under side, you could also buy the zero clearence tape I think dewalt do one. I also find it easier to break the boards down with a track saw which also gives a better finish.
Great video, as always! I would consider placing the feet closer to the side edge of the cabinet so that you dont have to rely on the screwed but-joint for holding your benchtop. Also, a strip of wood against the wall to place the cabinets om makes the installing go a lot smoother.
i find best way to do chip free on tracksaw is to do a score cut like ray did with the milwaukee but do it backwards, bit awkward but gets me out of trouble especially crosscutting finished ply
Hi Scott, cabbie from aus here. You probably have finished the kitchen by now but a couple of tips. Cabinet construction is fine, not a fan of the plant on back. If your overall depth is 560, cut your bottom to 542.5 and reduce back width by 33mm to fit between the ends. Also, make Jigs and bore the end panels before assembly for adjustable shelves and hinge plates. Way more accurate and easier. Good luck and have fun.
I almost gave Ray a hug. Good to see him back. Tell Jess that her suburban camo outfit looks very "Mod Squad." You'll probably have to google "Mod Squad," since you're probably too young to remember that American show.
Hey Scott, love the video mate, that table saw would be so handy to have. Mate I think you’re going to run out of kitchen bench workspace pretty quickly once you put toaster, kettle and the rest. Might be worth adding a island or mobile bench
I don't have to worry about breakout on laminate panels as I have the use of an Altendorf F45, a massive table saw with a travelling bed and scribing blade that undercuts the panel before the main blade cuts. It's interesting your discussion of blade height as with that saw we always have it at full height (~100mm, the blade is ~400mm dia) when cutting. Personally I normally build cabinets with air gaps at the rear, mainly because of wonky walls in the UK, and I like to use biscuits or dowels to strengthen the cabinet joints. Also if you don't already have a Blum EcoDrill (M31.1000) you'll want one with all the hinge holes you'll be cutting. Blum also makes a handy drilling template for mounting hinge receivers (Drilling Template for BLUMOTION / TIP ON and hinge mounting plates - 65.5300). I Have both and they save loads of time and the EcoDrill guarantees a perfect hole every time with minimal setup.
on a saw without the scribing blade its just over the material to get a clean cut at the bottom of the panel, at the very top to get a clean top and somewhere in between for clean on both sides the exact height for that varies by blade and how many times it has been sharpened. That's at least what what I learned at my apprenticeship (safety wise we did have a dust hood that went over the top of the blade)
Re the tension in the sheets, I found that with just about every sheet of HPL I cut up for mine. I used a tracksaw and straight after a full rip cut if you push the sheet back together, there’d be a gap in the middle of the cut where the sheet had bowed. Drove me nuts until I figured out what was happening (is the track bent?!? Nope…) Happened just about every time. I ended up cutting everything to final size on the table saw as a consequence as I just couldn’t get consistent results with the tracksaw size-wise. Found the same thing re the blade height too - the best cuts came from having the blade much higher out of the cut than I would otherwise expect. Also really depends on just how sharp the blade is - after the 17th sheet, the cuts were a bunch worse on the ‘non-show’ side - on both tracksaw cuts and tablesaw. Dunno if you’re going to edge band, but that was the bit I didn’t enjoy - largely as the banding we had was 1mm PVC that wasn’t pre-glued, so lots of contact cement to make things messy :)
finally your getting the kitchen started yay :) Now were talking.....Only wish the video had been way longer so we got to see the cabinmates made and then maybe installed would have been a nice touch. cant wait for the next episode !!!
Thanks to watching your channel for a few years, Scott, I was able to make some clean, square cuts across 75x35mm untreated pine today, using my 45 year old heavy duty AEG circular saw hand held. The saw had spent 30 years in a Triton Workbench, and that had made things too easy. I feel a sense of achievement. Tomorrow - the world. 😁😉 Thanks, Scott.
If the sheet is pinching the blade to the point that it stops, the riving knife may be too thin. Also, I always pre drill my hinges and shelf supports before assembling the units.
Yes was thinking it would be much easier to use a template for the draw sliders and hinges before the cabinets go together and holes for shelf dowels if utilised. I guess you just have to be very careful to watch your orientation as Im sure it would be easy to get a side upside down or back to front!
Hey, you need a better blade in your tablesaw for fine tear out free cuts. The best blade for clean cuts in veneer plywood and melamine top and bottom: high ATB 80 tooth with a negative rake(5degree or so) . A company called skarpaz here in the states makes this. The blade you’re using is fine for rips ,but cross cuts not so much . Definitely not in melamine rip or crosscuts
When your material pinches BEHIND the blade in the table saw, stop the saw, leave the material in place and put in a small wedge into the already cut end (the end that is doing the pinching) spreading the end gap open again and start the saw and complete the cut.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Jess that outfit at the start of the video is so cool!
Ray impresses once again with his amazingly wide and precise vocabulary
first scene and what pops into my head: Jess the "Garden NINJA" 😅, keep it on nice episode!
finally someone sees the beauty in a plywood edge
When you’re hvg your lunch what a stunning back drop and garden area to be amongst!!
☀️💐🌸🌺☀️🌼🌷🌻☀️
the out take has the best wisdom, you really can get in your head working by yourself. having a peer to talk to, work with etc can make a huge difference.
Make a zero clearance insert cover for your blade, it reduced chipping enormously.
Or a saw with a scorer blade... your way's much cheaper!
He’s not getting chipping on the underside of the sheet
if you want a really high quality finish on the edge, cut it a mil to wide and the take it to final size on the jointer.
@@TaylerMadeor a router with a straight edge guide
As an American its very weird to watch where i am turn to fall and watch Scott and NZ enter spring, great work!
Tip Scott for cabinet feet, Don't put all 4 adjustable feet on the cabinet attach a rail to the wall level at the height of the bottom of the cabinets. Then with feet only on the front adjust the cabinet level. this allows you to have the strong level base to the back. Then shim or not the back uppers and connect to the wall.
Hey mate, at our workshop, we tend to rough cut everything 10-15mm oversize and come back to get them to the right size when they're smaller manageable pieces.
That way, you also minimize the chipping.
double the work
Love Ray’s comment .. Scott nearly gave me a hug!!!😂I also love hvg the exposed plywood … it is so stylish .. well thought out Scott. Jess your flower overalls look good too..💐😎💐😎
Always cut face side down with with zero clearance insert. Two cuts. First cut is a scoring cut about 2mm deep. Then raise the blade a millimeter or two above the thickness. This will give you the best cut. Not that you need my help with anything. Love this channel, I've learned so much from you!
Scott, you're like Tina Turner of woodworking - simply the best.
With a 2mm gap between doors/drawers, you can't tell what colour the carcass edge is. And with the feet bases, it's best to overlap the ends/backs so that you don't push the bottom out of the cupboard. And when you have cupboards next to each other you can make them share a leg. Less legs needed and when you are down on the floor adjusting the legs, there are less of them to adjust!
Hey Scott. Quite common for laminated sheet material to have a fair amount of tension in them. Not sure what the science behind it is but an old machinery engineer said the best thing to combat the problem is to cut everything 10mm to big then trim to size. We used to do this when cutting tall wardrobe doors so the edges were perfectly straight.
I bet it is something to do with the glue that is used to bond the laminate to the plywood substrate.
its due to the fact that heat is used to press the veneer/paper onto the faces and it sucks all the moisture out of them but because they are a 2440x1220 sheet they cant move till cut
The lovely flowers in your garden remind me it is supposed to be spring here in NZ 😂
Ray❤❤❤❤
Melamine glue Scott! As a former cabinet maker I'm underwhelmed, but as a longtime builder, I know those cabs will be more than strong enough. Love the exposed edge too!
Honestly Scott your setup in your garage is mint …
A Carpenters’s dream…
Great stuff - as always on this channel. I’m doing my apprenticeship and every week my boss asks me “so what’s Scott been doing now?” and I see a smile on his face when I’m describing the latest episode with my eyes wide open:-)
Please give Ray a big hug in the next one - he’s great, I’m happy every time he’s on. And Jess … Jess is just awesome! Give her a hug too!:-)
Awesome job. I'm watching you on one screen, put together kitchen cabinets. On the other screen, I'm watching the All Blacks take Italy apart. 😁
Hi Scott, I'd step the back panel in around 50/70mm so it leaves you with a void in the back, good for running pipes/cables and for plumbing up you've got less contact against the wall if its out of plumb/level
I’ll doubt his walls will be out of plumb 😂 I always run a 20mm minimum void behind cabinet
Great idea. Future proof too
Prefer to see my pipes. Cables in conduit from box to box
Really glad you went for the exposed plywood edge. I think it looks really good and there’s no mucking around.
This has always been on my bucket list.
Can't wait to do this. Stuff an overseas holiday, I want to buy a dope table saw and build my own kitchen.
So stoked to see this phase starting off.
It’s called a gullet! You want your gullet above your material so that it cleans itself ! Good choice of blade ! Yes I am a finish carpenter/ cabinet maker!
Bloody hell you're good Scott. They're going to look great.
Love the simplicity of exposing the plywood edge. Also, most cabinets now days is chipboard, the plywood will be very superior and strong with your "pinning" approach.
Thanks!
Freud makes an awesome melamine/plywood blade that makes razor sharp cuts, FYI, I was taught to keep the height set to the bottom of the gullet ( circle thing?) of the blade. Also, zero clearance saw insert prevents chip out along with keeping the material down on the table (feather boards?). Excited to see them installed!
Leitz blades
Not familiar with that brand but I'm sure others make fine blades as well. My only experience was with Freud.@@Erkilll
I work in a joinery across the ditch.
I’m not a cabinet maker, so not sure the reasoning, but we inset the backs.
Sides are full depth full height, with the back full height but inset between the two sides, and base and top if applicable, also between the sides, and I front of the back.
My guess is because when screwing together this way, it has more strength when screwing the back to the wall. Probably more important for the overheads that all the weight is on the back.
We also use a ladder frame to sit the base cabinets on (when floor is pretty good) so you are only levelling up once, not every box.
Love how it’s all coming together. Saturday mornings are the best start of the week.
Perfect job 👏, edgebanding is a pain without expensive machinery
OMG Jess how pristine is that garden!!! loving the tulips!!! (8:00)
Glad Ray is back
fabulous garden outfit Jess, oh and I guess the cabinetry is pretty good too..
Try use blue painterstape when cutting to avoid chipping. Tape adds support to laminate and blue painterstape is best because of long fiber.
My first comment, or maybe second 🤔 my only complaint is its not long enough, I love my Saturday morning SBC ❤👍🏼
Great to see you getting on with the units. The only piece of advice I'd give is to construct the sink unit with the front rail being vertical instead of horizontal, that should save having to cut into the rail when it comes to fitting the sink. All the best
It's very satisfying when all the cut sheets fit together and make highly accurate boxes/cabinets.
@Scott Brown Carpentry if you ever have the space and budget you should get an Altendorf F45 Table saw thats the best saw money can buy
Perhaps experiment with an outfield riving knife? Your outfield table must be fastened solid to the table saw and perfectly level.
Keystone kitchen benchtops rock the Tasman district
Scott, a few years back I installed a set of frameless cabinets in a 100 year old house. I ended up using a laser leveled cleat at the wall and the adjustable legs in the front, it made super simple to drop them in and level across the front.
Sounds faster than 4 adjustable feet. Good idea
I use that method and it works well.
I love the exposed plywood. That is the best feature of plywood in my opinion. Never mind it is stronger and lighter than fiber core. Sure fiber core wouldn't pinch your blade, but you just need a riving knife on your saw. I've never seen melamine plywood before. I would have used prefinished (clear) maple plywood here.
when the saw binds on the material you can just put a little wedge in the end to open up the cut and you can then just continue cutting.
Great design Mark Williams
Casually dropping the Milwaukee rail saw in too, nice 👍
How exciting, your kitchen is taking shape Scott and welcome back Ray your definitely needed for this phase and you have been missed in the videos too. Can't wait to watch 'Part 2' (",)
A good rule of thumb is to place the height of the blade so that the belly of the gullet is at the top of your material.
Great, economical way to build cabinets. They're saving a ton doing the kitchen themselves.
Maybe painting the plywood edges black? Gives the similar look with the walls you've build in the past.
Set your blade so the teeth are just above your material. As the blade dulls, you can raise the blade to maintain the cut quality on the top of your material, but the quality on the bottom will be compromised. It is best to cut parts that are exposed on both faces when your blade is sharp. Like shelves and the bottoms of your upper cabinet. Cut parts of lower visibility later in the process when the blade has dulled. Most parts will only be visible from one side so keep track of which face will be visible in the finished product. This face should always face up when cutting on the tablesaw.
First thing I saw was something weird behind Scott, sorry Jesse. Nice garden Jesse and you scared me when you were helping with the saw, must have been camera angle. Cabinet edging looks nice. Thank you and have a great week.
I reckon you're pretty right about strength on all those carcasses with just pins & screws. If you thought they were a bit floppy one thing you could do is once its pinned up drill some holes for dowels as well as screws which would stiffen it up a bit.
I'm no cabinet maker but i've done that before and because you can just drill all the way through from the hidden face, then trim the excess dowel flush afterwards its a quick win. As long as you get the alignment of your drill bit good when making the hole its just one pass then squeeze a bit of glue and tap the dowel in. Much easier than having to drill a hole into each piece and hope you've matched them perfectly.
Just love your B roll and music. It’s so relaxing.
I built a slider attachment for large panel projects like this. Made a world of difference!
Way to go Scott ! Watching from California love to see the progress !
Hey Scott, I have been following you for some time now. I love that you have your wife & friend included in your segments. You & your wife are a lovely couple! In my younger days I was a trim carpenter and have been a Makita guy day one! So many Makita miter saws have been in my possession....and they worked wonderfully.....I kept my original Makita chop saw but mostly use my 40 volt 8-1/4 Miter saw now. Your cabinets with a plywood core.......simply love this choice!!! Here in the United States, I have never seen such a product available. Thanks for all your segments......love the house and all you have done. Great work!
I'm a cabinet maker and have a worked at a few different places over 15 years, all of which build them differently. So at the end of the day, there's no right or wrong way.
Also a cabinet maker, and I agree, there’s no right/wrong way, but there is a better or worse way. I would consider Scott’s cabinets to be shop-grade and rudimentary, one step below Ikea. For a kitchen, to make the cases, I use thicker (stronger) plywood, joinery (biscuits, dowels, floating tenons, whatever), glue, and screws. And I always make solid wood (usually maple if painted) face frames, again with the aforementioned joinery. The doors are inset frame & panel, and the drawers are dovetailed. That’s the gold standard for a durable, hard-working kitchen. This is not a criticism for Scott’s choices, it’s his kitchen and he can do what he damn well pleases. I love the channel and his work.
My partner Mal would love to know where Jess got her fabulous gardening overalls from?
What did the instructions say about the blade height?
Asking for Gaston….
Thank you for this! Thought I was mad for wanting to do this at my place lol.
U can put painters tape on the cut, to make it even cleaner, also a zero clearence insert helps
This is pretty much how we build cabinets in our shop, where most of our work is high end custom residential cabinetry.
The only difference is that because we need higher throughput, we have a CNC router cutting the parts and an end boring machine that drills for dowels and confirmat screws.
If I had to cut cabinets by hand, this is exactly how I would go about it!
Cheers from Victoria, BC, Canada
Track saw with some parallel clamps is definitely the better tool for rip cutting your ply.
Even if you go oversize and then final rip on the table saw, it will be far easier to manage than trying to rip huge sheets on the table.
Thank you Scotty, jess and Ray
Has no one commented on Jess’s amazing flower outfit in the beginning of the video?!?!? If you want to grow a flower you have to be a flower…:) ps the workshop is getting legit!!!
So happy to see Ray back. Great video!.
Love it! Between jobs in recession of early 1990s UK, I scratch built a kitchen for a friend. She stipulated no chipboard and doors open 270⁰ flat against next cabinet so children couldn't push them out of their hinges. Used 18mm WBP plywood with several coats of yacht varnish and very long 6mm screws into 5.5mm pilot holes, exposed ply ends. Looked good as new 25 years later when she moved and looked right for her 19th century terraced house.
A friend used plywood, cut to size by the timber merchant, Selco, and Ikea doors. Worked great
Just note if you're having things designed trans-tasman, Australian drawing standards are different to NZ. For example a door swing in elevation will indicate forwards the opening rather than the hinges.
Awesome as always
put clear tape on the side where u can see the cut, then take it off after the cut and you should not have any tear out. peace from Iceland
Hi Scott, loving the videos...good idea to make a zero clearence insert for the saw to reduce tearout on the under side, you could also buy the zero clearence tape I think dewalt do one. I also find it easier to break the boards down with a track saw which also gives a better finish.
Great video, as always!
I would consider placing the feet closer to the side edge of the cabinet so that you dont have to rely on the screwed but-joint for holding your benchtop. Also, a strip of wood against the wall to place the cabinets om makes the installing go a lot smoother.
I was taught to raise the blade above the gullet as well! It allows all the material to be cleared out
Great to see the start of the kitchen Scott, remember the Kiss adage. Keep It Simple Stupid. Thanks for the latest exciting episode.
Good work A56 glue will stick to white aqua board used in kitches
i find best way to do chip free on tracksaw is to do a score cut like ray did with the milwaukee but do it backwards, bit awkward but gets me out of trouble especially crosscutting finished ply
The side panels of the carcas should always sit ontop of the bottom panel for better weight distribution
100% agree. Keep the plywood edge. A bit of finish and 😍
Scott, to help your kerf issue, uou need a rising knife. It should have come with the saw. It also helps preventing kick back when making a saw cut.
Hi Scott, cabbie from aus here. You probably have finished the kitchen by now but a couple of tips. Cabinet construction is fine, not a fan of the plant on back. If your overall depth is 560, cut your bottom to 542.5 and reduce back width by 33mm to fit between the ends.
Also, make Jigs and bore the end panels before assembly for adjustable shelves and hinge plates. Way more accurate and easier.
Good luck and have fun.
A Festool MFT/3 table would have been awesome to use for this job next to the table saw.
I almost gave Ray a hug. Good to see him back.
Tell Jess that her suburban camo outfit looks very "Mod Squad." You'll probably have to google "Mod Squad," since you're probably too young to remember that American show.
Hey Scott, love the video mate, that table saw would be so handy to have.
Mate I think you’re going to run out of kitchen bench workspace pretty quickly once you put toaster, kettle and the rest. Might be worth adding a island or mobile bench
I don't have to worry about breakout on laminate panels as I have the use of an Altendorf F45, a massive table saw with a travelling bed and scribing blade that undercuts the panel before the main blade cuts. It's interesting your discussion of blade height as with that saw we always have it at full height (~100mm, the blade is ~400mm dia) when cutting.
Personally I normally build cabinets with air gaps at the rear, mainly because of wonky walls in the UK, and I like to use biscuits or dowels to strengthen the cabinet joints.
Also if you don't already have a Blum EcoDrill (M31.1000) you'll want one with all the hinge holes you'll be cutting. Blum also makes a handy drilling template for mounting hinge receivers (Drilling Template for BLUMOTION / TIP ON and hinge mounting plates - 65.5300). I Have both and they save loads of time and the EcoDrill guarantees a perfect hole every time with minimal setup.
on a saw without the scribing blade its just over the material to get a clean cut at the bottom of the panel, at the very top to get a clean top and somewhere in between for clean on both sides the exact height for that varies by blade and how many times it has been sharpened. That's at least what what I learned at my apprenticeship (safety wise we did have a dust hood that went over the top of the blade)
That would be a nice job for Festool’s new TSV 60😊
Re the tension in the sheets, I found that with just about every sheet of HPL I cut up for mine. I used a tracksaw and straight after a full rip cut if you push the sheet back together, there’d be a gap in the middle of the cut where the sheet had bowed. Drove me nuts until I figured out what was happening (is the track bent?!? Nope…) Happened just about every time. I ended up cutting everything to final size on the table saw as a consequence as I just couldn’t get consistent results with the tracksaw size-wise. Found the same thing re the blade height too - the best cuts came from having the blade much higher out of the cut than I would otherwise expect. Also really depends on just how sharp the blade is - after the 17th sheet, the cuts were a bunch worse on the ‘non-show’ side - on both tracksaw cuts and tablesaw. Dunno if you’re going to edge band, but that was the bit I didn’t enjoy - largely as the banding we had was 1mm PVC that wasn’t pre-glued, so lots of contact cement to make things messy :)
Nice choice. It'll last a long time, and be a super clean look. Cheers!
finally your getting the kitchen started yay :) Now were talking.....Only wish the video had been way longer so we got to see the cabinmates made and then maybe installed would have been a nice touch. cant wait for the next episode !!!
Thanks to watching your channel for a few years, Scott, I was able to make some clean, square cuts across 75x35mm untreated pine today, using my 45 year old heavy duty AEG circular saw hand held. The saw had spent 30 years in a Triton Workbench, and that had made things too easy. I feel a sense of achievement. Tomorrow - the world. 😁😉 Thanks, Scott.
Tape on the surface can reduce tear out.
Nice. My 2 cents, use a specialized blade for melamine and ply, cut with the good side up on table saw and good side down when using circular saw.
Im excited for you guys, this looks like a lot of fun!
great shed
If the sheet is pinching the blade to the point that it stops, the riving knife may be too thin. Also, I always pre drill my hinges and shelf supports before assembling the units.
Yes was thinking it would be much easier to use a template for the draw sliders and hinges before the cabinets go together and holes for shelf dowels if utilised. I guess you just have to be very careful to watch your orientation as Im sure it would be easy to get a side upside down or back to front!
For melamine try a HI-ATB blade with a zero clearance throat plate for best results without a scoring blade
Hey, you need a better blade in your tablesaw for fine tear out free cuts. The best blade for clean cuts in veneer plywood and melamine top and bottom: high ATB 80 tooth with a negative rake(5degree or so) . A company called skarpaz here in the states makes this. The blade you’re using is fine for rips ,but cross cuts not so much . Definitely not in melamine rip or crosscuts
You're so lucky to have Elton John in the background doing some gardening for you and Jess at the beginning of the video... lol
When your material pinches BEHIND the blade in the table saw, stop the saw, leave the material in place and put in a small wedge into the already cut end (the end that is doing the pinching) spreading the end gap open again and start the saw and complete the cut.
Have a shim handy...they're staged all over my shop.
You could do a black edging so when your drawers are closed it looks like that ply wall hob you did with negative detail 😊