The most amusing part of this video is Clive hoping the weather is good, it’s British summertime now and I think it’s rained constantly for the last 8months…
Pardon me, but I can’t get to sleep and am going through comments finding faults. You said ‘8 months’. I live in Bolton, northwest of Manchester and can categorically confirm that it’s 8 YEARS. 😀
Those gloves aren't designed to protect your hands from the chainsaw. It's so when you cut your finger(s) off, they're already bagged up ready to pick up. Last thing you want to be doing is kicking over dirt and sawdust looking for a couple of fingers you just lobbed off while blood and pain is shooting out the remaining hand.
This is it. My superintendent lost a thumb when a lifeline got away from him and wrapped around his wrist. It was already bagged up on the ground in a glove
Based on the glove size, this is a toy chain saw for children. I just bought one for my 8 year old nephew, I think it’ll help him deal with his hyperactive tendencies.
I was putting a "C" clip on a shaft, got it part way on and it sprung off and hit me in the center of my eyeglass lens. It left a small nick in the glass. My first reaction was, " Oh, I nicked my glasses." When I had a second to think of it, I was very glad to be wearing them. As the cutter wears down , the depth limiter need to be filed down. There are tools for this, it can also be done with a straight edge and feeler gage.
Yup. Once upon a time I had a brief job to do. Took only a minute. Decided to put on safety glasses, tho many other times I did not. Sure enough, CLICK. A nail hit the right lens.
That is why Clive called the C clip a Jesus clip; when assembling or disassembling it has the tendency to jump all over the room, and most of us then scream "Jesus...".
The oil reservoir with primer bulb pump is brilliant! Never seen that before, and it is such an effective, simple and low cost solution to keep the chain lubricated (most typically these mini-saws ignore the problem entirely).
I have one of these kinds of chainsaws, branded "Oddpet" on Amazon was £39. It came with 2 batteries and 2 chains but no oil. I had realistic expectations of its performance but it has massively exceeded them, it cuts through pretty much any diameter wood and the battery goes on forever. Obviously I am expecting it to conk out inexplicably any time but until it does then I have to be impressed.
Update, I used it today on heavier branches of fallen trees and I managed to run the battery flat, I also used it yesterday and got casual about the battery and didn't recharge it or have the spare with me. I would estimate I cut about 30 to 40 branches from 25mm diameter up to 100mm but difficult to be accurate.
I chopped up a 10 inch bough that fell off our big tree with one, bit fiddly when the plate is shorter than the branch is thick, you have to hack a V out of the wood to get room to work. £30 plus half a day saved me hundreds of pounds on a tree feller.
The small hole in the bar is where the chain oil feeds into, if you look you can see it leads into the bar slot. These little saws are very dangerous in untrained hands imho. You need to be very careful where your other hand is positioned. A full sized saw has two handles (except professional arborist saws) so both hands are always well away from the chain.
Yup. I'll stay with my Husquarna 55. It also has various ways to trigger the chain brake if the chain catches. For such small things that these saws can handle I'd go for other type of saws, powered or not.
I had a cheap plug-in one, a little larger than this, the way it was made you could hold it with one hand but there was no place to grip or steady it with the other hand. Poor design and very dangerous. It didn't last long either.
@@haroldsmith45302 rn there is a food scandal in China (who had thought) where trucking companies used the same trucks for mineral oil, diesel, and also for vegetable oil... Without cleaning! I mean, in EU, a truck is either food only or not. Mixed use is not allowed.
@@davidg4288 Do they make their "oil" in Shenzhen Shit Land like half of the things that Clive reviews on here. It is always very interesting to see how the Shenzhen Shit Land manufacturers fuck things up. I also wonder how many hundreds of people die in these factories every day owing to their nonexistent safety standards.
I have a saw like this and am thrilled. We have used it for two summers. To make sure the batteries last long, we store them inside to stay away from extreme heat and cold. When I cut things I never let the batteries die and take breaks between big cuts to not even let things get warm
@@erikdenhouterBetter to keep the lithium batts mostly discharged until ready for use. Ruins yard work spontaneity of course but extends the working life
@@ross9580 Well, many different opinions around... My way is to put them away almost fully charged (80%), and at least every 4 months discharge them, and then fully charge, and bring them back to 80% to put them away again. But it is not very practical with dedicated battery packs, unless you build your own discharge apparatus. So I think following that practice (for me) a discharge button on the device would be nice.
lithium likes to be stored at 50% SOC. So you just charge it 1/3 the usual time it takes to charge to 100%. the background is: the litihium ions are neither all in the positive regin nor in the negative one. so about perfectly balanced and not as aggressive chemicals. you charge to 100% prior to useage and after short usage not at all or if battery got drained in use just charge one third the 100% SoC timeframe.
Bought the first one a couple of years ago. One complaint: too cute looking! 3 people, 3 separate occasions almost sawed their face a few minutes after I explained kickback 😮💨
@@frednitney5831 I'm old enough to have played with mercury and my toys had lead paint. My cheap sabre saw and circuar saw both have buttons like the one on the chainsaw. So far I've not managed to lose any bits. We used to play in old empty buildings where there was this stuff round pipes that if you whacked it with sticks it was like snow. Good old asbestos, I wonder why its not so popular now? 🙂
"Screws all the same size, I wish more manufacturers would do that, all it takes is a little bit of foresight, a little bit of planning" They did the planning, and they came up with making it more difficult to repair than it needs to be gets them more sales.
I have one similar to these that I got for working on a couple outdoor project. It had the hand guard and the safety trigger with it, and did the job I needed it to.
8:15 Close, but the bar oil goes in the smaller hole just in front of the adjuster hole. If you look closely, you can see the bottom of the chain guide groove through the hole. You should check it every once and a while that the hole isn't plugged up with sawdust. Run a wire down the chain groove to clear the sawdust out of the groove.
If you look at the chain bar, there is a small hole in front of the tensioner hoke. The small hole doesn't go all the way through. That's where the oil goes.
Something I think you didn't notice (it's true for the ones I've bought) is that the gear attached to the shaft is only held in place by CA glue. If you use it too much and that gear gets too warm, the glue melts and it stops doing anything.
As its summer here, lol, why not complete your Scottish Gardening outfit with a pair of open-toe safety boots, a bottle of Grouse whiskey, and a trampoline - for reaching those awkward high spots - on your neighbours roof. PS dont forget to protect your head with some sun cream, - I know its pishing rain - but it makes the blood easier to wipe off when your finished...all the best! 👍👍👍🏴
I have had one similar to the red (dangerous) one for 18 months and used it many times. I treat it like a loaded gun and regularly remove the battery when I stop to handle the cut branches etc. I am paranoid about that exposed switch being accidently triggered so Clives new one would be a great improvement, Recently a storm felled a tree across a neighbours driveway and I used it to to cut up to man handleably lengths several 150mm 6" branches. It stopped two or three times during each big cut but restarted after 20 seconds or so. I then trimmed off the smaller side branches and finished the job after approx 30 minutes of cutting time, all on the one battery. I felt the motor and the battery after several cut outs and the outside was barely warm so the thermal cut out is possible a bit oversensitive.
I bought one of these after watching your first video. They're more expensive in the US due to the trade war. I use mine often. I have quite a few old trees on my property that are always dropping branches. I don't know how durable they are but I've had mine for a while now and it still works well. Replacement chains are available and quite inexpensive. The battery looks like it could be rebuilt with new cells fairly easily.
@@ecospider5 I don't own a cordless reciprocating saw. They are quite expensive. I did use my corded reciprocating saw to cut down some thick brush that was near my house. My property is over 200' from front to back so I would need a very long cord to reach the whole thing. Also, you need both hands with a reciprocating saw. These little chainsaws can be used with one hand which is helpful when you're on a ladder. They're light and cut quickly. I own a 6" one so it cuts through fairly thick branches.
Most 20v tool brands make a one handed reciprocating saw for pruning. You can use a 12” blade with them but leverage would be an issue. Like you said though they are not cheap $100+ without a battery.
As an very old trained, certificated, professional chainsaw user that has dealt with a few chainsaw injuries these things are accidents waiting to happen. Forestry is one of the most dangerous occupations. Think about every single movement you make with this tool.
"Sawzall" type reciprocating trimming/demolition saws work out far better and safer for small stuff; a proper chainsaw - or a contracted professional - for bigger stuff.
I feel you but also having used these mini 18v chainsaws a fair bit, they feel so much safer to use & easier to control than the full sized stuff. e.g the 'kickback' is honestly barely noticeable due to the diminutive chain size/speed.
A 32" Stihl, 18" Stihl and got a 6" version of these last year, which completes my set nicely. They're actually a useful little tool and much better then the Stihl 4" offering at 10x the price.
I've got one of these (well similar-the Lidl parkside 12v one, basically the as this, same Chinesium build, but no oiler) and I think it's great. One of those very convenient tools you never realised you needed.
I used one of these mini chainsaws today and I have to say I was impressed how handy it was. I had to cut a gap through a big hedge to run a fence panel through and it worked great.
I brought one from Temu very happy with it mine also came with a spare battery and There is a line trimmer available with a variety of cutting types also with a spare battery also very happy with it the reason I brought the trimmer is I am getting on in years I can just pick it up and do a little bit here and there and it also came with a wheel set so you can use it as a mower no worries about having fuel just up and go
These things are cheap yet quite reliable for small works. Only problem is people believe in description of these tools on chinese sites and use them beyond what they are capable of. Chinese can make a product at what ever price we give them. Greedy "sellers" from our countries usually import cheaper versions to get more profits . I recommend choosing quality versions from trusted chinese sellers on aliexpress instead of local sellers.
I used to buy a lot of tools by mail or internet order from the Canadian company Lee Valley Tools. They’d have many of the tools they designed or revived (things almost unknown for decades) made for them in China, and seemed to have learned after a bit of experience that if you find the right Chinese company and pay them enough, you can have things manufactured to a high standard. Otherwise…
Also the thing about these tools is they make chainsaws seem very easy and simple. Which while it is true, also might encourage people to treat them with less than the appropriate amount of respect (it's a cute cheap little chainsaw but still a chainsaw)
@@bobjoe1593 true. But i guess people should be aware of that. We don't really need a expensive kitchen knife to Slice off a finger ,same applies to any tool.
Quite impressive for its size, cost and build quality. I also like the modular build which does lend itself to other projects once the saw becomes knackered. Good post, now hunting for a chainsaw to trim the laurel bushes which are slowly enveloping the front of the property. 👍
I feel like they could've spent a few more pennies (yuan?) to include a janky peristaltic pump in the motor housing to slot the tubing through. But I have to imagine that motor is probably used in an handful of other cheap tools, toys, or something. It's impressive how many parts seem to be multi-use though.
Sprocket tip bars too. Oil them with light oil to keep them running just fine. You can buy a number of "semi-automatic" sharpeners from the same people you ordered the chainsaw from. A VERY similar construction to that used on the smaller Mains-powered chainsaws.
@@jayytee8062 Chain bar oil is pretty viscous. Certainly Stihl recommend using a light oil as a supplementary sprocket lubricant. I'm a regular chainsaw user (wood fired home heating), and so far I've never had bar problems (one of my Stihl saws is now 20 years old! :-) )
@phils4634 I've never ever heard anyone oiling their bar sprockets. Grease yes. Bar no. Also I don't recommend grease at all unless it's the needle bearing.
When you mentioned Project Farm, his penetrating, non-stop voice appeared in my head and wouldn't go away! Complete opposite of your meditative delivery.
battery-powered chainsaws are improving. I use a 2x18v makita unit and it works quite well for what it is. The odd thing is that it's no lighter than a comparable gas powered saw. Still, it's pretty convenient just to be able to grab it without fussing with fuel mixture and starter rope pulling.
When you put the bar in while on the bench you had it upside-down, the little hole you had at the bottom lines up with the slot where the oil is being pumped into on the leading side of the chain so the chain drags the oil with it towards the rest of the bar. If you put the bar in like you did you won't get any oil on the chain and the chain and bar will overheat quickly. 👍
Gloves might not protect you 100%, but they will catch and rip (perhaps off) if you touch the chain accidently. Better deglove the glove than your hand! Great Video!
Even the cheapest Harbor Freight gloves are better than what came in this kit. Spend two or three more bucks and you get a decent pair of work gloves. I don't know what HF's equivalent in the UK or the IOM would be, though.
I used to fix printers and we always called the little circlips 'Jesus clips'. I've not heard that term for years but there it is at 09:42. Good stuff, Clive.
The motor / gearset in this would make a heck of a tailgate blender drive, for those 1 gallon mojito's. Woofler bubble generation potential in the oil tank / pump system too. If using it for the original purpose i'd suggest keeping the chain filed up as sharp as possible to extend run time and motor life a bit. Even on big gas engine saws it pays to give the cutters a quick few file strokes every day of use. You won't likely take down a giant sequoia on the west coast of the USA with it, but if you've got a deathtrap shrub with a widowmaker split trunk it'd be just the business. 8^) Cheers!
When you mentioned the thermal cutout I was reminded of my Bosch drill/driver, which hasn't seen all that much use since we got it, but which one day decided to emit much sparks and noxious fumes while my lady was using it. I was able to get a new motor for it from them, cost me almost two-thirds of what I paid for the thing, and I notice this model isn't available any more. The replacement model has brush caps so you can replace 'em. I still have the old motor, haven't figured out how to un-do the crimped edges from one another just yet...
Some of the "identical" models (eg Seesii?) have the chain tensioner in the chain sprocket cover making it a 3 handed job to fit the chain/bar. One to hold the saw, one to hold the bar and chain in place and one to position the sprocket cover and tensioning pin into the bar hole. A zip tie to temporarily hold the chain onto the bar makes it easier
I have experience with a selection of chain saws and that drive gear looks like a fairly standard replacement gear for smaller saws. Some of the cheap ones are cast and ' final pollished/machined " depending how little you didn't pay for it. It was interesting to see that the ' gear box' was just a large gear and beefy shaft to transmit the torque.
These little chainsaws are practical for cutting branches that are too big for shears (30-50mm)and too little for a big chainsaw.I got generic one and it works great for occasional spring cleaning and trimming trees.
There is an extra hole on the blade that lines up with the oiler outlet when installed the right way around, here. On most "normal" chainsaws you fin that hole on both sides, but flipped top and bottom. The reason is that you want to flip the blade around every so often to distribute the wear. Background: I never wanted to handle a chainsaw, but when i saw how my boss handled them, i had to step in and save my job by taking that thing away from him. And that manual pump might be ok on a small thing like this but on a big one you need to have the chains lubricated at all times while cutting. The heat from cutting alone is a lot, but having dry guide channels on top of that would anneal the chain real fast, and then you never cut with it again. Also, even if the gloves are sh!tty, the point of most safety wear is to seize up the chain before the saw has a chance to cut through.
I seem to recall that years ago the sale of chain-saws that could be operated one-handed like this were restricted to people who had gone on appropriate courses as they are significantly more dangerous than the ones that require two -handed operation and have anti-kickback brakes etc. Where possible (i.e. on stuff up to about 100mm diameter) I use an Alligator saw as they are significantly safer than a conventional chain saw.
I was looking at a listing for a similar one the other day. It was described as having a "Powerless motor" which didn't sound too encouraging. I think they meant "cordless"! 🙂
That's obviously an "over capacity" item so it deserves to be banned or have its tariff raised to "200%". We can't let our citizens enjoy such cheap in cost but fully functional tool.
I have a very similar one, albeit 21V - recently it failed which I traced to one of the brushes in the motor having fallen off. Standard 550 motor off ebay and it's back in action 😁 Oddly the motor is wired up to run backwards if you look at the coloured dots on the back of the motor.
Mine arrived today (alas cost slightly more than £18) but didn't come with the non compatible tool and the blade cover was already fitted (hence the extra cost 😂). Revisiting the video I did notice the chain bars are different shapes 🤔. As usual to notch video.
That's quite a nice thing. Basic, but it looks pretty well designed. If you could get the body, it might be worth it just for the battery holder, trigger and motor unit. It'd certainly be ideal for building any kind of battery powered motorised handheld gadget. (Or, if you were desperate, I suppose you _could_ cut wood with it, but that seems boring.)
I bought a cheap impact wrench that works great for swapping tires on 4 cars twice a year! I've also got a retired air wrench and a 120 V impact. Probably for the cost of the three I could have bought a dewalt impact to match the rest of my power tools...
A little late on this one.... As you said the oil is forced into the bar on a properly made bar there are channels made by cutting tracks in the center steel layer and when they spot weld then together allowing the chain to be lubricated along its length and the sprocket at the end, what cheap chain bars have is anyone's guess... the nubben in front of the cutting edge serves two purposes one slightly nefarious.... its orignal purpose was to limit kick backs not allowing excessive bite depth making it safer. The more nefarious purpose is by limiting the cut depth you can control the power needed to a point so xheap manufacturers will undersize motors and component strengths since they can limit the forces the machines see
I opened a Milwaukee brushed 1/4" impact driver and all the screws are the same. I was pretty surprised because usually there are three sizes and two drive bits for TTI tools
Clive chopping his morning wood with a handheld electric tool is the content we all came to see.
Guilty as charged
I couldn't be arsed chopping morning wood! ... I don't think I could be arsed in the afternoon, evening, or the middle of the night either! 👎🤣
Lucky he has the priming bulb to keep his bar all lubed up.👌
And “safety gloves” to prevent any mishaps 😮😂
Come on, that's disgusting! I came here to watch him play with his tool.
The most amusing part of this video is Clive hoping the weather is good, it’s British summertime now and I think it’s rained constantly for the last 8months…
Pardon me, but I can’t get to sleep and am going through comments finding faults.
You said ‘8 months’. I live in Bolton, northwest of Manchester and can categorically confirm that it’s 8 YEARS. 😀
@@jamesmartin2325 💯💯
As a Yorkshire lass Im going to correct you, it's not 8 years it's 80 years
@@lauramorris6407 Do forgive the error of my ways - however I did live in York for four years, so I should have known better!!
I thought we r havin a good summer in scotland its been roastin
For some reason, I can now imagine Clive in his yard, cutting shrubs up and singing to himself: "I'm a lumberjack and I'm okay..." 🤣🤣🤣🤣
That's now in my head... In big Clive's voice...
Those gloves aren't designed to protect your hands from the chainsaw. It's so when you cut your finger(s) off, they're already bagged up ready to pick up. Last thing you want to be doing is kicking over dirt and sawdust looking for a couple of fingers you just lobbed off while blood and pain is shooting out the remaining hand.
This is it. My superintendent lost a thumb when a lifeline got away from him and wrapped around his wrist. It was already bagged up on the ground in a glove
A pocket chainsaw. Just the thing I want in my pockets.
@@curtishoffmann6956 Are you not worried it might make a hole in your pocket lining?
Or, cut your balls off? 🤣
Thank goodness I have some chainsaw resistant pants! They were quite affordable also.
@@edherdman9973 You DON'T want your Crown Jewels cutting off!
Self amputation devices are always an exciting addition to the tool shop! Cheers from New Orleans
Based on the glove size, this is a toy chain saw for children. I just bought one for my 8 year old nephew, I think it’ll help him deal with his hyperactive tendencies.
It’s not a toy at all it has a real chain
✈️@@VeeTwoPointOh
@@antoinepageau8336 8 years old is enough to use real tools, I would do this too
@@VeeTwoPointOh Well, it's a real 8 year old so it's only fitting to give him a real chainsaw.
You gotta start them Space Marines young
I was putting a "C" clip on a shaft, got it part way on and it sprung off and hit me in the center of my eyeglass lens. It left a small nick in the glass. My first reaction was, " Oh, I nicked my glasses." When I had a second to think of it, I was very glad to be wearing them.
As the cutter wears down , the depth limiter need to be filed down. There are tools for this, it can also be done with a straight edge and feeler gage.
Yup. Once upon a time I had a brief job to do. Took only a minute. Decided to put on safety glasses, tho many other times I did not. Sure enough, CLICK. A nail hit the right lens.
Same, I have a lens from one of my pairs of glasses with a huge gouge in it from a small screwdriver.
That is why Clive called the C clip a Jesus clip; when assembling or disassembling it has the tendency to jump all over the room, and most of us then scream "Jesus...".
The oil reservoir with primer bulb pump is brilliant! Never seen that before, and it is such an effective, simple and low cost solution to keep the chain lubricated (most typically these mini-saws ignore the problem entirely).
I have one of these kinds of chainsaws, branded "Oddpet" on Amazon was £39. It came with 2 batteries and 2 chains but no oil. I had realistic expectations of its performance but it has massively exceeded them, it cuts through pretty much any diameter wood and the battery goes on forever. Obviously I am expecting it to conk out inexplicably any time but until it does then I have to be impressed.
Update, I used it today on heavier branches of fallen trees and I managed to run the battery flat, I also used it yesterday and got casual about the battery and didn't recharge it or have the spare with me. I would estimate I cut about 30 to 40 branches from 25mm diameter up to 100mm but difficult to be accurate.
I chopped up a 10 inch bough that fell off our big tree with one, bit fiddly when the plate is shorter than the branch is thick, you have to hack a V out of the wood to get room to work. £30 plus half a day saved me hundreds of pounds on a tree feller.
The small hole in the bar is where the chain oil feeds into, if you look you can see it leads into the bar slot. These little saws are very dangerous in untrained hands imho. You need to be very careful where your other hand is positioned. A full sized saw has two handles (except professional arborist saws) so both hands are always well away from the chain.
I was just about to mention the oiling hole myself
Yup. I'll stay with my Husquarna 55. It also has various ways to trigger the chain brake if the chain catches.
For such small things that these saws can handle I'd go for other type of saws, powered or not.
I had a cheap plug-in one, a little larger than this, the way it was made you could hold it with one hand but there was no place to grip or steady it with the other hand. Poor design and very dangerous. It didn't last long either.
I encourage friends to buy a sawzall instead and get a 12” pruning blade.
@@sharg0"Sawzall" type reciprocating trimming/demolition saws. Safer, more flexible, and cheap easy blade changes.
The oil is probably a dose of the special mineral oil-vegetable oil that has been transported in the same truck without cleaning.
Gutter oil?
@@haroldsmith45302 rn there is a food scandal in China (who had thought) where trucking companies used the same trucks for mineral oil, diesel, and also for vegetable oil... Without cleaning!
I mean, in EU, a truck is either food only or not. Mixed use is not allowed.
@@spedi6721
Understood, thank you.
Chain saw bar oil might actually be an acceptable use of that questionable Chinese oil!
Certainly better than cooking with it.
@@davidg4288 Do they make their "oil" in Shenzhen Shit Land like half of the things that Clive reviews on here. It is always very interesting to see how the Shenzhen Shit Land manufacturers fuck things up. I also wonder how many hundreds of people die in these factories every day owing to their nonexistent safety standards.
Those gloves will save time looking for liberated appendages in the brushwood.
Lol they're worth each of the three pennies the manufacturer paid for them
They'll also soak up some of the blood.
Liberated Appendages is a great name for a band
Quite simple but surprisingly well made for the price.
And of course, delightfully dangerous! Thanks for the video
You can't say "real lumberjacks' without me thinking of Michael Palin and his best girlie by his side. Thanks for a great channel!
"IOM chainsaw massacre" just hits a little different.
😂😂😂
Wonder if it falls under UK laws for carrying weapons?
Not sure if chainsaw or tiny little motorbike racing around...
Maybe Clive should take it to the car race they have downtown every May or June. As the King of the Isle of Man he may need it. 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I have a saw like this and am thrilled. We have used it for two summers. To make sure the batteries last long, we store them inside to stay away from extreme heat and cold. When I cut things I never let the batteries die and take breaks between big cuts to not even let things get warm
What these gadgets need is a discharge button, so it is easy to cycle them once in a few months.
@@erikdenhouterBetter to keep the lithium batts mostly discharged until ready for use. Ruins yard work spontaneity of course but extends the working life
@@ross9580 Well, many different opinions around... My way is to put them away almost fully charged (80%), and at least every 4 months discharge them, and then fully charge, and bring them back to 80% to put them away again. But it is not very practical with dedicated battery packs, unless you build your own discharge apparatus. So I think following that practice (for me) a discharge button on the device would be nice.
lithium likes to be stored at 50% SOC.
So you just charge it 1/3 the usual time it takes to charge to 100%.
the background is: the litihium ions are neither all in the positive regin nor in the negative one. so about perfectly balanced and not as aggressive chemicals.
you charge to 100% prior to useage and after short usage not at all or if battery got drained in use just charge one third the 100% SoC timeframe.
Bought the first one a couple of years ago.
One complaint: too cute looking! 3 people, 3 separate occasions almost sawed their face a few minutes after I explained kickback 😮💨
As a left handed person those 'safety buttons' are the first thing my grip operates before the trigger.
Makes life so much easier 🙂
To say nothing of shorter. ;-)
@@frednitney5831 I'm old enough to have played with mercury and my toys had lead paint. My cheap sabre saw and circuar saw both have buttons like the one on the chainsaw. So far I've not managed to lose any bits.
We used to play in old empty buildings where there was this stuff round pipes that if you whacked it with sticks it was like snow. Good old asbestos, I wonder why its not so popular now? 🙂
I'm a lumberjack and that's ok, I sleep all night and work all daaayy...and that Sir, is not bar oil😅
I think it's sewing machine oil! I wonder if the little primer bulb would even handle proper chain oil.
"Screws all the same size, I wish more manufacturers would do that, all it takes is a little bit of foresight, a little bit of planning"
They did the planning, and they came up with making it more difficult to repair than it needs to be gets them more sales.
the small hole in the bar is what is supposed to line up with the oiling slot on the saw body.
12:46 He said "wood in the morning"
*giggles like a kid* 🤭🤭🤭
I can see the headlines - "Cheap chainsaw costs man an arm and a leg"
Surprised the gloves you got with it weren't "fingerless"😅
Just give it time....!
Those gloves would just drag your hand into the saw-teeth if one of them snagged on the rotating blade.
@@lusoverse8710 AND for the look of it they are slippery.
I have one similar to these that I got for working on a couple outdoor project. It had the hand guard and the safety trigger with it, and did the job I needed it to.
8:15 Close, but the bar oil goes in the smaller hole just in front of the adjuster hole. If you look closely, you can see the bottom of the chain guide groove through the hole. You should check it every once and a while that the hole isn't plugged up with sawdust. Run a wire down the chain groove to clear the sawdust out of the groove.
You're correct.
Also i would drill another oiler hole on the opposite side so the bar can periodically be flipped over so you have even wear.
I'm impressed it has a thermal cutout. I love my cheapy little chainsaw.
If you look at the chain bar, there is a small hole in front of the tensioner hoke. The small hole doesn't go all the way through. That's where the oil goes.
Something I think you didn't notice (it's true for the ones I've bought) is that the gear attached to the shaft is only held in place by CA glue. If you use it too much and that gear gets too warm, the glue melts and it stops doing anything.
this is actually a normal size chainsaw, CLIVE IS JUST A GIANT, the world will never know..
Shades of O J Simpson there with the gloves. You must acquit!
I have absolutely no use for this at all and yet I want one.
As its summer here, lol, why not complete your Scottish Gardening outfit with a pair of open-toe safety boots, a bottle of Grouse whiskey, and a trampoline - for reaching those awkward high spots - on your neighbours roof. PS dont forget to protect your head with some sun cream, - I know its pishing rain - but it makes the blood easier to wipe off when your finished...all the best! 👍👍👍🏴
And a kilt.
Kilts and trampolines, a match made in heaven.
I have had one similar to the red (dangerous) one for 18 months and used it many times. I treat it like a loaded gun and regularly remove the battery when I stop to handle the cut branches etc. I am paranoid about that exposed switch being accidently triggered so Clives new one would be a great improvement, Recently a storm felled a tree across a neighbours driveway and I used it to to cut up to man handleably lengths several 150mm 6" branches. It stopped two or three times during each big cut but restarted after 20 seconds or so. I then trimmed off the smaller side branches and finished the job after approx 30 minutes of cutting time, all on the one battery. I felt the motor and the battery after several cut outs and the outside was barely warm so the thermal cut out is possible a bit oversensitive.
I bought one of these after watching your first video. They're more expensive in the US due to the trade war. I use mine often. I have quite a few old trees on my property that are always dropping branches. I don't know how durable they are but I've had mine for a while now and it still works well. Replacement chains are available and quite inexpensive. The battery looks like it could be rebuilt with new cells fairly easily.
I use a sawzall with a pruning blade on my property.
@@ecospider5 I don't own a cordless reciprocating saw. They are quite expensive. I did use my corded reciprocating saw to cut down some thick brush that was near my house. My property is over 200' from front to back so I would need a very long cord to reach the whole thing. Also, you need both hands with a reciprocating saw. These little chainsaws can be used with one hand which is helpful when you're on a ladder. They're light and cut quickly. I own a 6" one so it cuts through fairly thick branches.
Interesting tear down! Thanks for sharing.
Most 20v tool brands make a one handed reciprocating saw for pruning. You can use a 12” blade with them but leverage would be an issue. Like you said though they are not cheap $100+ without a battery.
Project Farm is a hero in these parts
Your BOLTRs are so much more relaxing than AvE's.
As an very old trained, certificated, professional chainsaw user that has dealt with a few chainsaw injuries these things are accidents waiting to happen. Forestry is one of the most dangerous occupations. Think about every single movement you make with this tool.
"Sawzall" type reciprocating trimming/demolition saws work out far better and safer for small stuff; a proper chainsaw - or a contracted professional - for bigger stuff.
I feel you but also having used these mini 18v chainsaws a fair bit, they feel so much safer to use & easier to control than the full sized stuff. e.g the 'kickback' is honestly barely noticeable due to the diminutive chain size/speed.
Towards the end, my Grandpa kept buying crazy tools like this off Amazon to do his gardening.
We hat to keep hiding them.
A 32" Stihl, 18" Stihl and got a 6" version of these last year, which completes my set nicely. They're actually a useful little tool and much better then the Stihl 4" offering at 10x the price.
agree, the small Stihl is a joke. Milwaukee M12 Chainsaw is much better.
I've got one of these (well similar-the Lidl parkside 12v one, basically the as this, same Chinesium build, but no oiler) and I think it's great. One of those very convenient tools you never realised you needed.
I used one of these mini chainsaws today and I have to say I was impressed how handy it was. I had to cut a gap through a big hedge to run a fence panel through and it worked great.
I brought one from Temu very happy with it mine also came with a spare battery and There is a line trimmer available with a variety of cutting types also with a spare battery also very happy with it the reason I brought the trimmer is I am getting on in years I can just pick it up and do a little bit here and there and it also came with a wheel set so you can use it as a mower no worries about having fuel just up and go
The wee bit in front of the cutting tooth is referred to as the 'raker'.
An absolutely lovely explanation of how a chainsaw works! 👍🏼❤️
I’m impressed! Nicely designed little device
Edward Scissor hands meets Texas chainsaw massacre
Little known fact these are how he lost his hands. 🤣
These things are cheap yet quite reliable for small works. Only problem is people believe in description of these tools on chinese sites and use them beyond what they are capable of. Chinese can make a product at what ever price we give them. Greedy "sellers" from our countries usually import cheaper versions to get more profits . I recommend choosing quality versions from trusted chinese sellers on aliexpress instead of local sellers.
I used to buy a lot of tools by mail or internet order from the Canadian company Lee Valley Tools. They’d have many of the tools they designed or revived (things almost unknown for decades) made for them in China, and seemed to have learned after a bit of experience that if you find the right Chinese company and pay them enough, you can have things manufactured to a high standard. Otherwise…
@@markiangooley Oh! 🙂
@@markiangooley yes!
Also the thing about these tools is they make chainsaws seem very easy and simple. Which while it is true, also might encourage people to treat them with less than the appropriate amount of respect (it's a cute cheap little chainsaw but still a chainsaw)
@@bobjoe1593 true. But i guess people should be aware of that. We don't really need a expensive kitchen knife to Slice off a finger ,same applies to any tool.
Quite impressive for its size, cost and build quality. I also like the modular build which does lend itself to other projects once the saw becomes knackered. Good post, now hunting for a chainsaw to trim the laurel bushes which are slowly enveloping the front of the property. 👍
I can't say what I was thinking about because it seems people have already said it.
Well done everyone. 👏👏👏
I feel like they could've spent a few more pennies (yuan?) to include a janky peristaltic pump in the motor housing to slot the tubing through. But I have to imagine that motor is probably used in an handful of other cheap tools, toys, or something. It's impressive how many parts seem to be multi-use though.
Sprocket tip bars too. Oil them with light oil to keep them running just fine. You can buy a number of "semi-automatic" sharpeners from the same people you ordered the chainsaw from. A VERY similar construction to that used on the smaller Mains-powered chainsaws.
You don't need to specifically oil the bar sprocket. The oil will travel from the oiler along the bar groove and into the sprocket.
@@jayytee8062 Chain bar oil is pretty viscous. Certainly Stihl recommend using a light oil as a supplementary sprocket lubricant. I'm a regular chainsaw user (wood fired home heating), and so far I've never had bar problems (one of my Stihl saws is now 20 years old! :-) )
@phils4634
I've never ever heard anyone oiling their bar sprockets. Grease yes. Bar no.
Also I don't recommend grease at all unless it's the needle bearing.
When you mentioned Project Farm, his penetrating, non-stop voice appeared in my head and wouldn't go away! Complete opposite of your meditative delivery.
battery-powered chainsaws are improving. I use a 2x18v makita unit and it works quite well for what it is. The odd thing is that it's no lighter than a comparable gas powered saw. Still, it's pretty convenient just to be able to grab it without fussing with fuel mixture and starter rope pulling.
When you put the bar in while on the bench you had it upside-down, the little hole you had at the bottom lines up with the slot where the oil is being pumped into on the leading side of the chain so the chain drags the oil with it towards the rest of the bar.
If you put the bar in like you did you won't get any oil on the chain and the chain and bar will overheat quickly. 👍
Yes, it is very good tool! We have 2 saws with 4 batteries and 2 chargers. Very handy! Our is without oiling system, but we are very satisfied! :)
RUclips Overlords: Still watching closely but breathing easier on discovering this is the final installment.
Gloves might not protect you 100%, but they will catch and rip (perhaps off) if you touch the chain accidently. Better deglove the glove than your hand!
Great Video!
Even the cheapest Harbor Freight gloves are better than what came in this kit. Spend two or three more bucks and you get a decent pair of work gloves. I don't know what HF's equivalent in the UK or the IOM would be, though.
I got the 4" chain saw attachment for a normal drill. Very impressed with it.
Does the small blade and tiny gloves mean that in China this is a child's toy ?😂
Surprisingly well made, even metal gears! And now we know thanks to Clive 🙂
I used to fix printers and we always called the little circlips 'Jesus clips'. I've not heard that term for years but there it is at 09:42. Good stuff, Clive.
The motor / gearset in this would make a heck of a tailgate blender drive, for those 1 gallon mojito's. Woofler bubble generation potential in the oil tank / pump system too. If using it for the original purpose i'd suggest keeping the chain filed up as sharp as possible to extend run time and motor life a bit. Even on big gas engine saws it pays to give the cutters a quick few file strokes every day of use. You won't likely take down a giant sequoia on the west coast of the USA with it, but if you've got a deathtrap shrub with a widowmaker split trunk it'd be just the business. 8^) Cheers!
When you mentioned the thermal cutout I was reminded of my Bosch drill/driver, which hasn't seen all that much use since we got it, but which one day decided to emit much sparks and noxious fumes while my lady was using it. I was able to get a new motor for it from them, cost me almost two-thirds of what I paid for the thing, and I notice this model isn't available any more. The replacement model has brush caps so you can replace 'em. I still have the old motor, haven't figured out how to un-do the crimped edges from one another just yet...
Some of the "identical" models (eg Seesii?) have the chain tensioner in the chain sprocket cover making it a 3 handed job to fit the chain/bar. One to hold the saw, one to hold the bar and chain in place and one to position the sprocket cover and tensioning pin into the bar hole. A zip tie to temporarily hold the chain onto the bar makes it easier
Thanks for the test. I stopped buying stuff without a bigclive quality confirmation 😊
If all the trees mysteriously disappear from the Isle of Mann, we have an idea who might have done it
Never thought I'd see the autopsy of a chainsaw today. The way the cheap thing is made. I can't help but think Chinese Chainsaw Massacre.☕️😌
Umbrella commenting on chainsaws is... unsettling.
@@abhigejfthey gettin new ideas for how to take out STARS 😪
Chinese chainsaw massacre.. makes me think of the band preschool tea party massacre... dunno..
the oil enters the bar through the smallest hole in the bar that does not go all the way through the bar!
Big Clive with a Chain Saw. What could possibly go wrong? 😲
I was amused through the whole use explanation hearing Monty Python in the background.
I have experience with a selection of chain saws and that drive gear looks like a fairly standard replacement gear for smaller saws. Some of the cheap ones are cast and ' final pollished/machined " depending how little you didn't pay for it. It was interesting to see that the ' gear box' was just a large gear and beefy shaft to transmit the torque.
🎶The teni-tiny chainsaw of chorded freedom fun
🎶Make sure you pay attention or you'll be short a thumb.
Very cool. For the price ill have to grab one.
Thank you for the video detailing it.
Be quick, the price is going up!
The small hole has to align with the oil slot.
Wasn’t Paul Muni in the film ‘I was a fugitive from a Chinese Chainsaw Gang’?
'Isle Of Man Chainsaw Massacre' is the movie sequel we need to see
These little chainsaws are practical for cutting branches that are too big for shears (30-50mm)and too little for a big chainsaw.I got generic one and it works great for occasional spring cleaning and trimming trees.
Small hole in chain bar is for oiler.
Seems like they really cut costs with this chainsaw.... Nice video
18 quid? Holy cow thats cheap. And it actually doesn't look to bad, at least it does have an oiler unlike a lot of them.
I wish all my saws had a manual oil feed so all the oil wouldn't end up on the garage floor...
There is an extra hole on the blade that lines up with the oiler outlet when installed the right way around, here.
On most "normal" chainsaws you fin that hole on both sides, but flipped top and bottom. The reason is that you want to flip the blade around every so often to distribute the wear.
Background: I never wanted to handle a chainsaw, but when i saw how my boss handled them, i had to step in and save my job by taking that thing away from him.
And that manual pump might be ok on a small thing like this but on a big one you need to have the chains lubricated at all times while cutting. The heat from cutting alone is a lot, but having dry guide channels on top of that would anneal the chain real fast, and then you never cut with it again.
Also, even if the gloves are sh!tty, the point of most safety wear is to seize up the chain before the saw has a chance to cut through.
I seem to recall that years ago the sale of chain-saws that could be operated one-handed like this were restricted to people who had gone on appropriate courses as they are significantly more dangerous than the ones that require two -handed operation and have anti-kickback brakes etc.
Where possible (i.e. on stuff up to about 100mm diameter) I use an Alligator saw as they are significantly safer than a conventional chain saw.
I was looking at a listing for a similar one the other day. It was described as having a "Powerless motor" which didn't sound too encouraging. I think they meant "cordless"! 🙂
That's obviously an "over capacity" item so it deserves to be banned or have its tariff raised to "200%". We can't let our citizens enjoy such cheap in cost but fully functional tool.
😅
I bought one recently and am very impressed.
I cannot get behind these (and I definitely wouldn't want to get in front of one, either 😆)
I didn't expect the Ripper from Fallout to have a real world equivalent.
I have a very similar one, albeit 21V - recently it failed which I traced to one of the brushes in the motor having fallen off. Standard 550 motor off ebay and it's back in action 😁 Oddly the motor is wired up to run backwards if you look at the coloured dots on the back of the motor.
very good review. what a useful little saw and for the price seems very good value. providing it's used with caution.👍
Mine arrived today (alas cost slightly more than £18) but didn't come with the non compatible tool and the blade cover was already fitted (hence the extra cost 😂).
Revisiting the video I did notice the chain bars are different shapes 🤔.
As usual to notch video.
That's quite a nice thing. Basic, but it looks pretty well designed. If you could get the body, it might be worth it just for the battery holder, trigger and motor unit. It'd certainly be ideal for building any kind of battery powered motorised handheld gadget. (Or, if you were desperate, I suppose you _could_ cut wood with it, but that seems boring.)
another fine discourse on product design, thanks
i don't need fancy pro tools for those occasional home improvement projects 👍
I bought a cheap impact wrench that works great for swapping tires on 4 cars twice a year! I've also got a retired air wrench and a 120 V impact. Probably for the cost of the three I could have bought a dewalt impact to match the rest of my power tools...
Hope you use one of these in a Trash Cooking episode.
I've had one for over a year and I think the are awsome. I've cut through 3" branches.
A little late on this one....
As you said the oil is forced into the bar on a properly made bar there are channels made by cutting tracks in the center steel layer and when they spot weld then together allowing the chain to be lubricated along its length and the sprocket at the end, what cheap chain bars have is anyone's guess... the nubben in front of the cutting edge serves two purposes one slightly nefarious.... its orignal purpose was to limit kick backs not allowing excessive bite depth making it safer. The more nefarious purpose is by limiting the cut depth you can control the power needed to a point so xheap manufacturers will undersize motors and component strengths since they can limit the forces the machines see
I opened a Milwaukee brushed 1/4" impact driver and all the screws are the same. I was pretty surprised because usually there are three sizes and two drive bits for TTI tools
Amazing tool...i didn´t expect that security components...i like it