Cutting through that first vertical to the second on the back cut and applying tension that high above the back cut certainly increases the likelihood of chairing. Back cutting to the second cut has merit as you can see the slow compression. Or, just leave a wider hinge and plunge the centre of the scarf out.
I believe the original video shows the back cut about 1 or two inches shy from the last bore cut, providing even more hinge wood. thanks for this vid- learn something new everyday.
I really appreciate seeing how you did this .. BUT - why or what would want to make you decide to use this method over a single hinge ?? More control ??
Абсолютно никогда вам это не понадобится. С такой скоростью спиливания на лесозаготовках вы бы остались без работы. Достаточно было выпилить стандартный клин и одним резом с противоположной стороны добиться аналогичного эффекта.
I like to use this cut when there are cars etc. around. You can bring the tree down very slowly an make it less likely for branches to burst and hit nearby objects
I use a triple hinge in two scenarios. First is a hard side leaner where you make your face cut, cut your triple, cut as much compression wood as possible, drive wedges where the compression wood was, and finally cut make a back cut. Essentially you can triple the amount of tension wood and it holds on longer because the folding action and kerf closing of each hinge. Think of what Jerry Beranik talks about in his book about the beefy hing and problems associated with it. Second is you can slow down how fast the tree falls. Do some experimenting with the second use, you will be surprised at how slow you can make them fall. Look closely at the veiw you have of the hinge wood and you will notice the kerfs closing against each other and imagine a horizontal line across the hinges as the tree goes over the line will look more saw toothed the farther the tree tips on its way down because each hinge tips a little bit. Have fun trying it out.
I saved a piece of pine that had a branch in the near middle similar to yours. Cutting through a huge diamond or concrete slab would have been easier. I was baffled by why it was impossible to cut through. Even a railroad tie would have been easier. It wasn't a residential tree so I didn't get it until we moved the cut way up. Chain dulling, spark throwing damndest thing I've ever cut.
I need to see more. A normal single hinge of around 1.250” on a tree this size would have been sufficient to hold and not splinter out. Does having three in a row make that each hinge needs to be narrower for a cleaner break without the possibility of a barber chair?
I get a kick at these RUclips ers, in the logging industry for over 30 years, we fell on Overage 5 trucks a day, and always were in the trade for production of logs for lumber, we always fell and used undercuts, back cut to maximize wood to the landing, low stumps, unless to to used to stop loosing logs down hill, these guys got lots to learn, stay safe, and sharpen your saws.
i like your channel , and i am a subscriber...... ive been a timber faller and a climber of very big trees on the mendocino and sonoma coast , ca. for 31 years now, im 71...... first off, always get a wedge in the back cut as soon as you can in case the rope breaks, or the guy pulling on it fucks up etc...... second, why the f would you put the angle cut first on the face cut ???? , you can't really use your gun sights that way,, and as you cut, the wedge piece is going to pinch your bar as it finishes...!!! and that " fancy" cut method is total bullshit,, a total waste of time etc..... ridiculous...... other than that,,, you are a great teacher.....r.g.
I'm a fellow faller! I use humboldtes on higher stumps when I'm trying to get my first log out of the stump flare in softwoods because the flare lowers the value of the log in my market. I use conventional on hardwood when I'm trying to fell the tree as low as possible because the hardwood flare still has value and doesn't lower the grade of the log. Despite what many say, you can be deadly accurate when you start with your upper 45. You just have to plumb your sight when you start the cut.
Hi r.g. I have always done my angle cut first, I use my gunning sights in the same way but they are lined up from the centre of the face rather than sweeping across. Much easier to match up a flat cut to an angled cut than the other way around. I have always believed that the traditional style of face (e.g. flat cut first, then angled cut) is a holdover from the days long before chainsaws, when all they had was crosscut saws and axes. At that time the best way to do it was to start with the crosscut saw (flat cut), then use the axes to chip out the angled part of the face. Then the back cut was with the crosscut saw. So when the chainsaw came along, it seems to me that they just continued the method that was familiar to them. I don't know how long it took before someone realized that a chainsaw opened up many more possibilities, e.g. bore cutting, or making the angled cut first, etc. I know that angled cut first is not the "traditional" way of cutting faces, but it is every bit as accurate once you have the technique dialed in, and it is much faster and easier to learn for anyone just starting out... As far as the Shark Gill cut goes, this is my friend's technique and I am just trying it out. It has very specific use cases which I didn't get into here, but if you watch David's tutorial which is linked at the end of the video, he goes in depth as to when this could be useful... Cheers from Canuckistan - Patrick
Does it make a difference? I cut predominantly old growth and large second growth, and I often take my lower (angled) cut first, because then I don't have a 200 pound face cut sitting on my bar when I finish that bottom cut...
@@TreeMuggs_PatrickM I agree with making the angled cut first and is ded nutz aim. I know from experience this felling cut works wonders on side leaned or weighted hardwoods. Keep up the great vids thanx.
Top Branch does a similar technique in some of their videos. The difference being I've only seen him use two vertical cuts and they are both parallel and above the bottom of the face cut, not stair stepped like you did. Both work, but the stairs are logical.
It would have been nice to show another hinge as thick as that cut in a standard way on those other trees and compare the performance. It certainly looks like the fibers had a lit of bend... seems like making the extra cut to block the face would be even better. The real question is, how well does it hold against side lean.. I didn't like seeing your buddy under the boom of the loader... hope you had the safety engaged
@educatedclimber, use an alpine butterfly know with a shackle on the connection to the skidder, put another carabiner in the alpine know itself to make it easy to untie. Alot easier then a doubled up bowline that looks what your guy out on there
I could see it being used on a heavy side leaner and you’re trying to directionally fell it away from the lean. Maintaining a strong hinge to prevent the hinge of popping on one side.
@@JEEDUHCHRI Yes, or backleaner, that's the first use case that David describes for this cut... I want to try it out on something really brittle like Norway Maple.... - Patrick
In upstate New York we just called it a triple hinge. If I’m pulling with a pickup or excavator, I bore cut the center of the hinge out also. I only use it with side leaners for the most part. That’s why I want the extra.
@@fuqutube it’s just to keep a side leaned tree from drifting off course prematurely. This cut isn’t insurance but it can make a tree into a tree that can be felled without a rope
@@fuqutube yeah seriously try it out when trees got a good bit of side lean. You will use it. I know what you mean about not needing it. But it’s definitely another tool in the trick bag. Once you try it on a tree with side lean, you will notice how ridiculous the pull wood is on the stump and understand the holding power advantage of the triple hinge.
Recently watched that shark gill tutorial video as well. Tried it on a Bradford pear with a ton of back weight, and it was pretty cool seeing the amount of fibers holding on something that would usually snap out. Useful cut.
There is another better way to cut extremely heavy side/back learners. For some reason the entire globe is fixated by doing straight face and back cuts, if you angle the bottom of the face cut 5-10 degrees and just go 1cm under that level with the back cut the tree can hold much more. See it as a threshold for the tree plus for heavy sides a more triangled cut will help the tree straighten before going over
Use that technique for hollow trees. If the tree is solid, you're just adding wear and tear on your equipment. There are some species that like to barber chair. Use this technique on them, too.
Can you please break down the way you have your pull line hooked up in a video how it goes over the top and comes down the spur for mechanical advantage
We use this technique daily because it’s much easier than trying to isolate a point in the canopy to send up a running bowline or climb up to install the pull line.
I don't do it for mechanical advantage, it's just much faster and easier than isolating and sending up a running bow, also gives you more options for changing the setup if you need to since you maintain access to both ends of the line... - Patrick
@@TreeMuggs_PatrickM thank you for responding and my mistake thought I heard you say it gave more control over the pull thanks I'm a huge fan love the mistake videos keep up the good work
@@TreeMuggs_PatrickM The good old "while you're here" or the neighbour coming over and asking for a quote and then explaining that doing the job now would save us driving back....
My first thought is that this cut might increase the chances of a barberchair on tree prone to splitting , so maybe you should wrap a ratchet strap around the trunk.
It actually lessens the odds of a barberchair, it allows the tension to be released slowly and step by step. It works good on alder. We don't have a name for it, we just refer to that as double or triple hinge
@@Northwoods208 I couldn't remember the name of the sizwheel, but yes I agree. And the vertical cuts should start after the hinge, and extend both below and above point of wedge, and be lots taller. Like over a foot
I've never seen a vertical cut at the point of the wedge(front).... and I've only seen/used this with taller vertical cuts, like over a foot tall. Logger Wade shows cuts like this! I've tried them and they hold on longer than this. The first vertical cut should be behind the hinge... unless you're using it to swing (steer), but that's still quite different and too complicated without pics/video
I doubt there is much benefit to having two, stacked hinges. I would make the first plunge cut and then make the notch cut, at both top and bottom of the plunge, leaving a vertical face to bend. Then a second plunge right behind the first, to define the bending section. Then the back cut to meet the top of the second plunge, to lessen the chance of the second plunge turning into a barber chair.
Great work Patrick, I was watching Xman (Dave) and saw this and heard him say he did a podcast with you? Where can I find this, I would love to watch it. You are great and thank you for having great contact on your channel. The editing was very cool too, I like the triple take of the tree falling and the hinge wood sound. Jim.
Terrible video. Does not explain or show how to dothe double or triple hinge cut, merely the results of a downed tree. At the end, the feller admits he didn't do it perfectly. Also didn't show us how to do it
My problem with this video is that you didn't get around to affixing a bollard to your mini. What's all this running line through the D-ring and tying knots malarkey??? At least you could just girth-hitch a Portie to the D-ring...
Pourquoi arrivé en tête, place suffisante et dégagée pour 1 coupe sans soucis? Pourquoi tant d entailles? 1 coupe d entailledirectionnelle aurait suffit! Ensuite coupe d abattage classique. Pourquoi tant de chichis? J avoue ne pas comprendre?
For you people that are watching this video please don't try this on any tree... stand back and see which way the tree is leaning, make the right decision the direction you want the tree to drop!!! .... Then cut your notch!!! Stand directly behind your notch that you made then make a single cut!!... remember One notch!! One cut!... from the Appalachian mountains of Kentucky, be safe!!!
The triple hinge is used to swing heavy leaners. It’s not useful nor practical on this tree. I highly question your first vertical cut. By cutting into your felling notch you have basically created a Dutchman that will cause the first hinge to prematurely fail. I’ve never seen a triple hinge set up this way. That’s just my opinion.
If done inaccurately, would the multiple vertical bore cuts increase the possiblilty of a barber chair?
Cutting through that first vertical to the second on the back cut and applying tension that high above the back cut certainly increases the likelihood of chairing. Back cutting to the second cut has merit as you can see the slow compression.
Or, just leave a wider hinge and plunge the centre of the scarf out.
Thanks for the multiple camera angles--that really made this helpful.
I believe the original video shows the back cut about 1 or two inches shy from the last bore cut, providing even more hinge wood. thanks for this vid- learn something new everyday.
I really appreciate seeing how you did this .. BUT - why or what would want to make you decide to use this method over a single hinge ?? More control ??
Yes and straightening up a leaner
You did an excellent job on that cut.
What situation would this cut be needdd for? Honest question
I'm wondering the same.....
Don’t know, but it made a great colon noise as it fell 😂😂😂
Not this one…thats for sure
Абсолютно никогда вам это не понадобится. С такой скоростью спиливания на лесозаготовках вы бы остались без работы. Достаточно было выпилить стандартный клин и одним резом с противоположной стороны добиться аналогичного эффекта.
I like to use this cut when there are cars etc. around.
You can bring the tree down very slowly an make it less likely for branches to burst and hit nearby objects
You could have fooled me with that cut. It was impressive. Nice felling!
Really appreciate all the hard work, that goes into sharing . the education you gained and learn the rest of us super appreciate it.
Joe
Nice to see someone who knows how to sharpen a chain.
Helluva job Pat, thank you for sharing. F the haters.
I use a triple hinge in two scenarios. First is a hard side leaner where you make your face cut, cut your triple, cut as much compression wood as possible, drive wedges where the compression wood was, and finally cut make a back cut. Essentially you can triple the amount of tension wood and it holds on longer because the folding action and kerf closing of each hinge. Think of what Jerry Beranik talks about in his book about the beefy hing and problems associated with it. Second is you can slow down how fast the tree falls. Do some experimenting with the second use, you will be surprised at how slow you can make them fall. Look closely at the veiw you have of the hinge wood and you will notice the kerfs closing against each other and imagine a horizontal line across the hinges as the tree goes over the line will look more saw toothed the farther the tree tips on its way down because each hinge tips a little bit. Have fun trying it out.
Used this today on a 28" walnut. Pulled fibers 13" above the back cut, minimal damage to the lawn.
Thanks again for the great video!
Got it a much slower drop...
I have never seen the shark gill before. Will have to try it on my next low risk job.
Is all the extra work , really worth the energy and time
For max hinge time, I think I’d make a horizontal cut to the bottom of the European trench cut and make it a big wide open face.
I saved a piece of pine that had a branch in the near middle similar to yours. Cutting through a huge diamond or concrete slab would have been easier. I was baffled by why it was impossible to cut through. Even a railroad tie would have been easier. It wasn't a residential tree so I didn't get it until we moved the cut way up. Chain dulling, spark throwing damndest thing I've ever cut.
I need to see more. A normal single hinge of around 1.250” on a tree this size would have been sufficient to hold and not splinter out. Does having three in a row make that each hinge needs to be narrower for a cleaner break without the possibility of a barber chair?
Check out David's tutorial at the end of this video, he goes over the use cases for this cut... - Patrick
I get a kick at these RUclips ers, in the logging industry for over 30 years, we fell on Overage 5 trucks a day, and always were in the trade for production of logs for lumber, we always fell and used undercuts, back cut to maximize wood to the landing, low stumps, unless to to used to stop loosing logs down hill, these guys got lots to learn, stay safe, and sharpen your saws.
Residential tree surgery is totally different to commercial logging.
Pro job buddy . Sending congratulations from england
i like your channel , and i am a subscriber...... ive been a timber faller and a climber of very big trees on the mendocino and sonoma coast , ca. for 31 years now, im 71...... first off, always get a wedge in the back cut as soon as you can in case the rope breaks, or the guy pulling on it fucks up etc...... second, why the f would you put the angle cut first on the face cut ???? , you can't really use your gun sights that way,, and as you cut, the wedge piece is going to pinch your bar as it finishes...!!! and that " fancy" cut method is total bullshit,, a total waste of time etc..... ridiculous...... other than that,,, you are a great teacher.....r.g.
I'm a fellow faller! I use humboldtes on higher stumps when I'm trying to get my first log out of the stump flare in softwoods because the flare lowers the value of the log in my market. I use conventional on hardwood when I'm trying to fell the tree as low as possible because the hardwood flare still has value and doesn't lower the grade of the log. Despite what many say, you can be deadly accurate when you start with your upper 45. You just have to plumb your sight when you start the cut.
Hi r.g. I have always done my angle cut first, I use my gunning sights in the same way but they are lined up from the centre of the face rather than sweeping across. Much easier to match up a flat cut to an angled cut than the other way around. I have always believed that the traditional style of face (e.g. flat cut first, then angled cut) is a holdover from the days long before chainsaws, when all they had was crosscut saws and axes. At that time the best way to do it was to start with the crosscut saw (flat cut), then use the axes to chip out the angled part of the face. Then the back cut was with the crosscut saw. So when the chainsaw came along, it seems to me that they just continued the method that was familiar to them. I don't know how long it took before someone realized that a chainsaw opened up many more possibilities, e.g. bore cutting, or making the angled cut first, etc. I know that angled cut first is not the "traditional" way of cutting faces, but it is every bit as accurate once you have the technique dialed in, and it is much faster and easier to learn for anyone just starting out...
As far as the Shark Gill cut goes, this is my friend's technique and I am just trying it out. It has very specific use cases which I didn't get into here, but if you watch David's tutorial which is linked at the end of the video, he goes in depth as to when this could be useful...
Cheers from Canuckistan
- Patrick
Does it make a difference? I cut predominantly old growth and large second growth, and I often take my lower (angled) cut first, because then I don't have a 200 pound face cut sitting on my bar when I finish that bottom cut...
@@TreeMuggs_PatrickM I agree with making the angled cut first and is ded nutz aim. I know from experience this felling cut works wonders on side leaned or weighted hardwoods. Keep up the great vids thanx.
You absolutely can cut your angle cut first almost all european/Scandinavian fellers do that so thats some BS...and i dont care if your 71 or 171.
Very nice work! I would like to see this on an open face notch see how gentle you can a back leaning tree to fall. Maybe to mitigate lawn damage.
Enjoyed the sounds of the hinge breaking.
Very different, but cool cut.
-Alberta Tree slayer
What is the knot/hitch the guy is tying to the Vermeer?
Top Branch does a similar technique in some of their videos. The difference being I've only seen him use two vertical cuts and they are both parallel and above the bottom of the face cut, not stair stepped like you did. Both work, but the stairs are logical.
When would you actually use this technique? It seems to be a lot of additional cutting
What’s advantageous ? Thanks
Looks like you had plenty of room to practice with. It's always good to try a new technique with low risk.
Great example thanks.
It would have been nice to show another hinge as thick as that cut in a standard way on those other trees and compare the performance. It certainly looks like the fibers had a lit of bend... seems like making the extra cut to block the face would be even better. The real question is, how well does it hold against side lean.. I didn't like seeing your buddy under the boom of the loader... hope you had the safety engaged
@educatedclimber, use an alpine butterfly know with a shackle on the connection to the skidder, put another carabiner in the alpine know itself to make it easy to untie. Alot easier then a doubled up bowline that looks what your guy out on there
How many days did it take to cut and film this. I fell asleep
Several days and nights were spent on this tree
When would this cut be used and why?
Yeah what he said
I could see it being used on a heavy side leaner and you’re trying to directionally fell it away from the lean.
Maintaining a strong hinge to prevent the hinge of popping on one side.
@@JEEDUHCHRI Yes, or backleaner, that's the first use case that David describes for this cut... I want to try it out on something really brittle like Norway Maple.... - Patrick
@@kennethowenby2600 Check out David's tutorial video for more in depth discussion... - Patrick
Have you tried this technique / cut since this time and has it created any unsafe situations?
Very talented , awesome video. Craig Pa
In upstate New York we just called it a triple hinge. If I’m pulling with a pickup or excavator, I bore cut the center of the hinge out also. I only use it with side leaners for the most part. That’s why I want the extra.
@@fuqutube lol I would not triple hinge that tree. There are trees I do that with but, not on straight coniferous trees
@@fuqutube it’s just to keep a side leaned tree from drifting off course prematurely. This cut isn’t insurance but it can make a tree into a tree that can be felled without a rope
@@fuqutube yeah seriously try it out when trees got a good bit of side lean. You will use it. I know what you mean about not needing it. But it’s definitely another tool in the trick bag. Once you try it on a tree with side lean, you will notice how ridiculous the pull wood is on the stump and understand the holding power advantage of the triple hinge.
Great video Patrick, you are by far the best on RUclips, love your videos thank you brother, stay safe and God bless you 🙏
I'm humbled Fred, appreciate it... - Patrick
Recently watched that shark gill tutorial video as well. Tried it on a Bradford pear with a ton of back weight, and it was pretty cool seeing the amount of fibers holding on something that would usually snap out. Useful cut.
There is another better way to cut extremely heavy side/back learners. For some reason the entire globe is fixated by doing straight face and back cuts, if you angle the bottom of the face cut 5-10 degrees and just go 1cm under that level with the back cut the tree can hold much more. See it as a threshold for the tree plus for heavy sides a more triangled cut will help the tree straighten before going over
@PumaTomten I'm curious about this tecnique and don't understand what you mean? Could you explain more?
Ive heard of tripple hinge but not shark. Same kinda technique. Cool stuff
Use that technique for hollow trees. If the tree is solid, you're just adding wear and tear on your equipment. There are some species that like to barber chair. Use this technique on them, too.
I like the cut because they delay allows you to get out of dodge before theres trouble
That's a wild cut pattern.
😎✌️
It is...
Dood that was wicked look at all that hinge! Can’t wait to try this out! Great job Patrick👍👍👍🤙🤙🤙
What if u didn't have the machine to pull it over?
This is twice I have seen this cut method shown, and both times it didn’t seem to work any better than a conventional cut. What am I missing?
That was very cool 😎 Thanks
Can you please break down the way you have your pull line hooked up in a video how it goes over the top and comes down the spur for mechanical advantage
We use this technique daily because it’s much easier than trying to isolate a point in the canopy to send up a running bowline or climb up to install the pull line.
I don't do it for mechanical advantage, it's just much faster and easier than isolating and sending up a running bow, also gives you more options for changing the setup if you need to since you maintain access to both ends of the line... - Patrick
@@TreeMuggs_PatrickM thank you for responding and my mistake thought I heard you say it gave more control over the pull thanks I'm a huge fan love the mistake videos keep up the good work
why did you need a pull line for such a straight forward tree?
Hi Patrick. Thankyou for all the great vids. :) Just wondering what camera you use and helmet mount?
definitely nice it's kind of like the triple hinge but you're going the whole way through instead of just a quarter of the way
Hmm nice vid😁
Sweet video ......
Why?
The no ad ons sticker on the truck 😂😂😂
Firm rule
@@TreeMuggs_PatrickM The good old "while you're here" or the neighbour coming over and asking for a quote and then explaining that doing the job now would save us driving back....
@@SebKrause661 Exactly
Customers are the WORST!!!
What would be the point of using that cut?
I understand that this is a technique is used for better directional control, not sure why such a straight tree was used as an example.
My first thought is that this cut might increase the chances of a barberchair on tree prone to splitting , so maybe you should wrap a ratchet strap around the trunk.
My first thought as well, that's what I first commented on David's tutorial - Patrick
It actually lessens the odds of a barberchair, it allows the tension to be released slowly and step by step. It works good on alder. We don't have a name for it, we just refer to that as double or triple hinge
@@Northwoods208 but do you have a vertical cut in front of hinge? I've never seen it done like that
@@Imageloading... no, not unless in putting in a sizwheel, but that serves a different purpose entirely
@@Northwoods208 I couldn't remember the name of the sizwheel, but yes I agree.
And the vertical cuts should start after the hinge, and extend both below and above point of wedge, and be lots taller. Like over a foot
Wedge cut and a back cut all that's needed
Next, wider notch on way off camber lean to see how long hinge will last???
I've never seen a vertical cut at the point of the wedge(front).... and I've only seen/used this with taller vertical cuts, like over a foot tall.
Logger Wade shows cuts like this! I've tried them and they hold on longer than this.
The first vertical cut should be behind the hinge... unless you're using it to swing (steer), but that's still quite different and too complicated without pics/video
I doubt there is much benefit to having two, stacked hinges. I would make the first plunge cut and then make the notch cut, at both top and bottom of the plunge, leaving a vertical face to bend. Then a second plunge right behind the first, to define the bending section. Then the back cut to meet the top of the second plunge, to lessen the chance of the second plunge turning into a barber chair.
What is the benefits of cutting this notch
The hinge wont fail as easy. Even with a side lean. How much? well thats experience to know what you can get away with.
Check out David's tutorial which is linked at the end of this video... - Patrick
I have cut down a lot of trees and I just can’t sleep what you’re getting from this
Someone not sure of his knots
Saturday knots....
Impressive.
Great work Patrick, I was watching Xman (Dave) and saw this and heard him say he did a podcast with you? Where can I find this, I would love to watch it. You are great and thank you for having great contact on your channel. The editing was very cool too, I like the triple take of the tree falling and the hinge wood sound. Jim.
It's audio only, available on podcast apps, called The Educated Climber Podcast... - Patrick
Nice...but to laborious..😮😊
Nice! It feels a bit like barberchair risky to me
I don't suggest using that with maple or alder. It looks like your asking for a barber chair.
What is the purpose? Seems like a bunch of extra work for nothing.
Woah, gonna try this.
I wonder if it works well with hardwoods
Works best on hardwoods. Keeps the hinge longer. Great for side lean
Terrible video. Does not explain or show how to dothe double or triple hinge cut, merely the results of a downed tree. At the end, the feller admits he didn't do it perfectly. Also didn't show us how to do it
Batter up! Your turn. Show us how it’s done. This was his first one. How many have you shown now? Link to your channel?
My problem with this video is that you didn't get around to affixing a bollard to your mini.
What's all this running line through the D-ring and tying knots malarkey???
At least you could just girth-hitch a Portie to the D-ring...
love it
Looks like a slower more controlled fall
Pourquoi arrivé en tête, place suffisante et dégagée pour 1 coupe sans soucis? Pourquoi tant d entailles? 1 coupe d entailledirectionnelle aurait suffit! Ensuite coupe d abattage classique. Pourquoi tant de chichis? J avoue ne pas comprendre?
seems a little excessive for such a simple job however, it is just a demonstration of the technique.
i saw through the tree, for a sec.🤣🤣
It’s a triple hinge. Everyone knows that. Just ask Logger Wade
that third plunge cut wasn't doing anything and increases the likelyhood of an upward split when pulling with machinery.
Wouldn't this's also cause more of a chance of barberchair
That was my first thought when I saw it, I would ratchet strap on a big hardwood that's for sure... - Patrick
Makes sense
Funny how someone can see someone else do something stupid and think that's the way to go.
Lots of time on your hands.
3 gills and two hinges!!!
This is the most useless and ridiculous felling technique I have ever seen, felling trees for 42 years so far
troll
Very helpful information, please wear gloves and stay safe.
No need to be fancy when you have equipment!
Nice cut, man. Did you use a STIHL chainsaw?
I HOPE THE HALF GLASS EMPTY COMMENTERS PAY BETTER ATTENTION TO TREE WORK THAN THEY DO WATCHING VIDEOS.
Здорово!
For you people that are watching this video please don't try this on any tree... stand back and see which way the tree is leaning, make the right decision the direction you want the tree to drop!!! .... Then cut your notch!!! Stand directly behind your notch that you made then make a single cut!!... remember One notch!! One cut!... from the Appalachian mountains of Kentucky, be safe!!!
ทำไปเพื่ออะไรครับผมยังไมเข้าใจสิ่งนี้
The triple hinge is used to swing heavy leaners. It’s not useful nor practical on this tree. I highly question your first vertical cut. By cutting into your felling notch you have basically created a Dutchman that will cause the first hinge to prematurely fail. I’ve never seen a triple hinge set up this way.
That’s just my opinion.
As Sgt. Schultz said, "very interesting - but stupid"!!
Absolutely pointless
Agree!!!
It has its place.
@@lashlarue7924 no it doesn't. As a qualified tree surgeon I can safely say its bollocks
No way...just a wide hinge!
Useless...no need!
👍
Skidded 2 minute job. Don’t complicate easy stuff.
I believe u call that a sis well cut
Man what in the heck are you guys smoking? Get back to work and quit screwing around.cmon guys.