Your paint technique + black basing has brought my paintwork to a next level of finesse and tonal realism that I wouldn't have with the age old grey primer and black pre-shading. So thanks for that. This video again, to my opinion, demonstrates a very relaxed and practiced technique that turns out very nice looking aircraft. Though I have noticed myself that cameras have some trouble picking up the result quite like a human eye seeing the real thing can.
The thing with cameras is that they can't capture anywhere close to the dynamic range that our eyes can. Which is why you get photos where the sky is completely washed out, or people are horribly backlit and so on. Subtleties of tone are also lost in translation - to varying degrees with varying cameras.
Hey Matt, I was starting to get Flank off withdrawal symptoms, thank goodness your back to complete, I no you have a life to lead & sometimes is good to have a break from the hobby. Now she’s looking really good. Can’t wait to see the finished masterpiece. All the best.
Very nice job!!! Could you give me please the reference of the MRP paints you used for the camo intrados/extrados? And same thing for the galaxy masks? Thx and great jet!!
Matt how do you keep your masking from ruining your metal work on the exhaust? I do all my painting in a hot, humid southeast TX garage. Any sort of masking always destroys my metal work. That’s with priming, no priming, MRP, Alclad, AK Extreme Metal or any other of the half dozen metallic paints I’ve used. Even when I de-tack the tape on the back of my hand before masking, it ruins it. This is probably my biggest frustration in painting.
Long story short, after a lot of experimenting and trial and error I've found paints and a process that seem to work: 1 - Gunze GX2 base. This black is nice and shiny and bites well into the plastic. I've also noticed that metallics don't seem to have problems lifting from it in general. 2- MRP metallics > Alclad for "standard" metallics. They aren't as balky in the airbrush, can spray smaller, and I've never had lifting issues with any of them over GX2 3 - For the really shiny stuff, I've fallen in love with Kcolors' alcohol-based metallics. 4 - Seal them. For Kcolors, their XW100 preserves the metallic look and seems pretty bulletproof once you give it 24 hours. I taped and retaped and retaped the stabs and had NO lifting. Not even the "glitter" you might get otherwise. I'm sure the stuff would work for MRP as well, but I used some Gunze semi-gloss on the engines and heat shielding and again, all seems well.
So great to watch a master at work!
Super work enjoy watching having a nice watch then the wife pooked her head in and said ( stop watching and build something) PRICELESS
Your paint technique + black basing has brought my paintwork to a next level of finesse and tonal realism that I wouldn't have with the age old grey primer and black pre-shading. So thanks for that. This video again, to my opinion, demonstrates a very relaxed and practiced technique that turns out very nice looking aircraft. Though I have noticed myself that cameras have some trouble picking up the result quite like a human eye seeing the real thing can.
The thing with cameras is that they can't capture anywhere close to the dynamic range that our eyes can. Which is why you get photos where the sky is completely washed out, or people are horribly backlit and so on. Subtleties of tone are also lost in translation - to varying degrees with varying cameras.
Amen, couldn't agree more. Thanks v much, Mr Doog....
You know one of the things I admire about you is that you don't charge a dime, that I am aware of, for the content you produce. Kudos.
Hey Matt, I was starting to get Flank off withdrawal symptoms, thank goodness your back to complete, I no you have a life to lead & sometimes is good to have a break from the hobby. Now she’s looking really good. Can’t wait to see the finished masterpiece. All the best.
You are an artist
Thanks for the info Matt. I’m going to order some of the Gunze base tonight.
Like your style . Excellent video. I'm curious about the make and model / needle size of the first airbrush used. Thanks .
Very nice job!!! Could you give me please the reference of the MRP paints you used for the camo intrados/extrados? And same thing for the galaxy masks? Thx and great jet!!
Really great job!
Matt how do you keep your masking from ruining your metal work on the exhaust? I do all my painting in a hot, humid southeast TX garage. Any sort of masking always destroys my metal work. That’s with priming, no priming, MRP, Alclad, AK Extreme Metal or any other of the half dozen metallic paints I’ve used. Even when I de-tack the tape on the back of my hand before masking, it ruins it. This is probably my biggest frustration in painting.
Long story short, after a lot of experimenting and trial and error I've found paints and a process that seem to work:
1 - Gunze GX2 base. This black is nice and shiny and bites well into the plastic. I've also noticed that metallics don't seem to have problems lifting from it in general.
2- MRP metallics > Alclad for "standard" metallics. They aren't as balky in the airbrush, can spray smaller, and I've never had lifting issues with any of them over GX2
3 - For the really shiny stuff, I've fallen in love with Kcolors' alcohol-based metallics.
4 - Seal them. For Kcolors, their XW100 preserves the metallic look and seems pretty bulletproof once you give it 24 hours. I taped and retaped and retaped the stabs and had NO lifting. Not even the "glitter" you might get otherwise. I'm sure the stuff would work for MRP as well, but I used some Gunze semi-gloss on the engines and heat shielding and again, all seems well.
Edging.... all right :D