really great video and looking forward to following ones in this series - mine hasnt run in two years, i was thinking this is what i am going to have to get into. i am an extreme novice so the detailed walk thru is really appreciated.
Some of the earlier videos I've done were also on a TR6 that needed a good going-through. This one actually ran with rebuilt carbs, ignition, and some fresh gas... Outside of that, it got new coolant hoses and a couple of the rubber fuel lines needed to be replaced, but I didn't have the camera rolling for those as they were pretty quick repairs. So worth watching, but unfortunately less of a "series" than I had planned. That said, that's good news, right?
Great video MM. Thanks! Quick question, I own a 1971 TR6 with stock ZS 175s CD-2 carbs. The rear carb is leaking from the plug in the float bowl. I have a new one to replace it. Can I remove the current plug without having to remove the carb or float bowl? Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks.
That depends. If you have the earlier "screw in type" of plug, then yes. If not, then no, you'll need to compress the clip inside the float bowl. That said, it is possible to remove the float bowl if you have a short screwdriver and flexible wrists. If it's the clip in plug, use a new oring and some JB Weld or similar epoxy. That part never needs to come out, and it'll leak again.
Glad to help! Don't feel bad--most people don't know there's a difference since the screws look pretty much the same. You can identify them with an extra "cross" stamped into the screw head, but pretty much most of the screws on a Triumph (and most others of that era) will be PZ and not PH.
A question after seeing the whole vid. The fuel bowl plugs. I bought new o rings, but kind of chickened out removing the plug when I found out they are plastic and can break easily. Have you found that to be the case? I'd be removing the plug with carbs in situ, so prying off. Thanks in advance!
It's fairly easy to remove the plugs. While not completely uncommon to break one, they typically will hold in place just fine. Actually the best thing to do is to put on a new o-ring, and then JB Weld the piece in place. It'll never leak again, and there's no point in ever removing it--it's just a leftover from earlier models that had a brass adjustable jet. @@tomhughes9107
Thanks for another great video, really helpful for a real amateur like me! I have just started the job of replacing the o rings in my TR6 dashpots as they're no longer holding oil very long at all and when I went to remove the top caps of the carbs I noted that the screws were barely hand tight and once removed the caps lifted right off with zero effort whatsoever, no tapping like you had to do in this video. My top caps should surely be on tighter than that shouldn't they? Or is it of no real significance? I thought the diaphragms might be torn as the car idles perfectly but under load really hesitates and won't really rev. The diaphragms are not in fact torn but do you think perhaps the top caps not being tight could be causing an issue? Any guidance much appreciated!
Probably no real issue. But fill the dashpots with oil. That sounds like your problem. If not, then I'd suspect your distributor isn't advancing properly. I can rebuild those if you're in the US. Just did 2 last week, with happy owners.
@@midwestmotoring Thank you very much for getting back to me so fast. Ok, I will replace the dashpot o rings, fill with oil and see if that improves matters. After getting back to the parking garage having stumbled under throttle the couple of miles back and not wanting to rev up, what I found odd is that sat in neutral it let me rev up just fine, all the way as high as you’d want with no problem whatsoever. I will watch your videos on the distributor and look into that. I would gladly send it to you if that turns out to be the problem but I’m in the UK unfortunately! Thank you very much for your help.
@@midwestmotoring Just back to update you - It was indeed the dashpots. After replacing the very worn out o rings, topping them up with 90 weight gear oil and fitting a fresh set of plugs it's running great for the first time in ages. I replaced the plugs as a while back I had mistakenly fitted the wrong gasket which blocked the float bowl vent which resulted in very bad flooding and the car breaking down. As I suspected all plugs were badly fouled. Many thanks for your help!
I need to do most of the things that you listed to my own TR6 that has sat up for many years, so I am greatly looking forward to your videos!
You'll get there. Just think of it as one project at a time!
Another Outstanding video and presentation. I'm so glad that my late model MGBs only have one Zenith carburetor.
Right on!
really great video and looking forward to following ones in this series - mine hasnt run in two years, i was thinking this is what i am going to have to get into. i am an extreme novice so the detailed walk thru is really appreciated.
Some of the earlier videos I've done were also on a TR6 that needed a good going-through. This one actually ran with rebuilt carbs, ignition, and some fresh gas... Outside of that, it got new coolant hoses and a couple of the rubber fuel lines needed to be replaced, but I didn't have the camera rolling for those as they were pretty quick repairs. So worth watching, but unfortunately less of a "series" than I had planned. That said, that's good news, right?
@@midwestmotoring absolutely- always look forward to any thing you post
These are great videos! For the Stromberg 175 with water chimes, where can I get the brass needle and seat that is in that housing? Mine is seized.
The water choke parts aren't super readily available, but you might try Joe Curto in New York. British Superior I think is the company.
Great video MM. Thanks! Quick question, I own a 1971 TR6 with stock ZS 175s CD-2 carbs. The rear carb is leaking from the plug in the float bowl. I have a new one to replace it. Can I remove the current plug without having to remove the carb or float bowl? Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks.
That depends. If you have the earlier "screw in type" of plug, then yes. If not, then no, you'll need to compress the clip inside the float bowl. That said, it is possible to remove the float bowl if you have a short screwdriver and flexible wrists. If it's the clip in plug, use a new oring and some JB Weld or similar epoxy. That part never needs to come out, and it'll leak again.
PoziDrive. How didn't I know this 3 years in ownership? Bits ordered. Thanks!
Glad to help! Don't feel bad--most people don't know there's a difference since the screws look pretty much the same. You can identify them with an extra "cross" stamped into the screw head, but pretty much most of the screws on a Triumph (and most others of that era) will be PZ and not PH.
A question after seeing the whole vid. The fuel bowl plugs. I bought new o rings, but kind of chickened out removing the plug when I found out they are plastic and can break easily. Have you found that to be the case? I'd be removing the plug with carbs in situ, so prying off. Thanks in advance!
It's fairly easy to remove the plugs. While not completely uncommon to break one, they typically will hold in place just fine. Actually the best thing to do is to put on a new o-ring, and then JB Weld the piece in place. It'll never leak again, and there's no point in ever removing it--it's just a leftover from earlier models that had a brass adjustable jet. @@tomhughes9107
Ok thanks again!
Thanks for another great video, really helpful for a real amateur like me! I have just started the job of replacing the o rings in my TR6 dashpots as they're no longer holding oil very long at all and when I went to remove the top caps of the carbs I noted that the screws were barely hand tight and once removed the caps lifted right off with zero effort whatsoever, no tapping like you had to do in this video. My top caps should surely be on tighter than that shouldn't they? Or is it of no real significance? I thought the diaphragms might be torn as the car idles perfectly but under load really hesitates and won't really rev. The diaphragms are not in fact torn but do you think perhaps the top caps not being tight could be causing an issue? Any guidance much appreciated!
Probably no real issue. But fill the dashpots with oil. That sounds like your problem. If not, then I'd suspect your distributor isn't advancing properly. I can rebuild those if you're in the US. Just did 2 last week, with happy owners.
@@midwestmotoring Thank you very much for getting back to me so fast. Ok, I will replace the dashpot o rings, fill with oil and see if that improves matters. After getting back to the parking garage having stumbled under throttle the couple of miles back and not wanting to rev up, what I found odd is that sat in neutral it let me rev up just fine, all the way as high as you’d want with no problem whatsoever. I will watch your videos on the distributor and look into that. I would gladly send it to you if that turns out to be the problem but I’m in the UK unfortunately! Thank you very much for your help.
You're describing classic low dashpot oil. It stumbles under load but revs freely in neutral. Try adding oil and there's a good chance that's it.
@@midwestmotoring Ok that's good to hear! I will try that and hopefully that will resolve it. Many thanks!
@@midwestmotoring Just back to update you - It was indeed the dashpots. After replacing the very worn out o rings, topping them up with 90 weight gear oil and fitting a fresh set of plugs it's running great for the first time in ages. I replaced the plugs as a while back I had mistakenly fitted the wrong gasket which blocked the float bowl vent which resulted in very bad flooding and the car breaking down. As I suspected all plugs were badly fouled. Many thanks for your help!
Thanks for the video. What year carbs are they?
They're from a 1970, but would be the same for a number of years.
Thanks Matt. 70-72 are the same I believe. Rear carb has port on bottom and front has on top/manifold side. Both for distributor advance and retard.
Yep. They can be used on other cars too since you've got provisions for both ported and manifold vacuum.