How to choose a multimeter for electronics use
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- Опубликовано: 14 июл 2024
- How to choose a multimeter for electronics use
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Me: Paul, 49 from USA
Education: United States Navy, University of California at San Diego B.S. E.E., University of Pittsburgh M.S. E.E.
Experience: United States Navy STS, Bayer Intnl Process Engineer, C.C.A.C AP of EE
Current: Retired
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5 years later and still a good guide. Thanks
One of the quikest guides to sort through multimeters for what an individual needs the new meter to do!
This may be the best video on YT on what to consider when purchasing a multimeter. Only thing you didn't mention was to make sure it stands up well. I have a Commercial Electric meter that i really like.
Thanks for a real world review of what we need in a multimeter. Based on an older review of yours, I went to buy an 8008 and ended up with an 8009. I find it meets my needs very well, and i would not have understood its features anywhere near as well without your talks about it and its 8008 brother. Thanks and please keep these videos coming!
Hi Paul, great presentation, with a lot of useful info. and wise guidance for prospective DMM buyers. Cheers.
This is a great video. Nice concise recommendations prioritizing features. I like it!
After much research, I almost bought the EEVblog BM235, but decided to order a BM257s because it has a couple of features over the 235s that I liked. I am very satisfied with the meter. So much so that I decided to keep the BM257s at work and then bought a BM829s for home use. I don't need 50,000 count, and the BM829s has almost the same feature set as the BM869s for a lot less money. (I repair/restore arcade games and pinballs. The dual display comes in very handy for some applications)
I am very happy with both meters and impressed with their speed and accuracy.
Great video. I like the elimination by feature process. Very clear, straightforward, down to the chase. Thanks!
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Cheers mate! I was looking for a video that would break down what DMM I need as someone who's new to electronics. Great stuff.
Very nice comparison video, clear, concise and to the point. I'm getting the AN8008!!
thank you. I'm teaching myself how to test chips etc on motherboards and troubleshooting a power issue on an old PS3. So I'm learning about what i need or want in these tools before i buy. idk i might start this as a side hustle for pocket change, fixing electronics is fun to me. I know absolutely nothing about them. how you went through this video and explained while not over explaining, is much appreciated. This confirmed that ~$50 is basically mostly what you need, while ~$20 has enough for general needs. I already see some other videos of yours im going to watch next. Thanks again!!
Thank you for the wonderful review, I've decided to get the AN8008. This video really helped me out!
Very crisp explanation Paul. Thanks and take care!
Very good comparison, great job Paul.
8008 is on order from Amazon.CA. For $ 36.oo plus tax. Not a bad deal. with your help I feel I got what I need. Last month my old $200. MM died and I was unable to find the problem. As a retired bench tech I couldn't justify buying a more expensive unit. Your video came along just at the right time. Thanks for sharing. I'm now a subscriber and hope to find more interesting videos.👍
Very clear as well as excellent presentation. Thanks!
I do like that an8009 meter for the temp. I'm definitely not an elitist but I have 2 Flukes that I've used for years, that I didn't pay for either. I'd like to thank you for compairing the features of your meters. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for making the video I was confused now my confusion cleared. this video helped me out to pick the best multimeter.
I just bought an AN8008, thanks for your video!!!
You chose a very nice meter.
Very informative especially for the a first time buyer. Thanks so much!
You are welcome.
FACTS !
i have a VC99, AN8009 and a beefup version of those free harbor freight meter.
VC99 give me more confidences in it readings properly due to the fact it uses a dedicated chipset and it reading is more stable.
AN8009 have higher resolution and ranges in almost every aspect which is really handy when come to measuring really really high resistance and capacitance occasionally.
the hf meter is collecting dust.
Love your channel. I’m now 51 and although always wanted to get into electronics, never did. I have a very old rs-components (fluke 8022B) multimeter I inherited from my late father. Now I’m middles aged and have “old things” that need repair I’ve decided to teach myself the basics. Your videos are amazing. Thank you. I have the an-eng on my want list along with a power supply. Once I have those I’m going to start building circuits and playing about.
Thanks for the inspiration :)
Welcome aboard!
Thanks Paul I was pretty confused . Wanted to buy a cheap one but bit reluctant you solved my problem . thanks !!!
Straight shooting analysis good job.....getting hard to find honest reviews on the web
I love meters and just had to buy the AN8008. Thanks!
Dude. You rock! This was exactly what I needed. Thank you!
Thank you for this video - very helpful
Excellent video! Thanks.👏
What I need to know first is what accuracy the multimeter measures. Then even a device with a scale of 6000 gives much better and more accurate results than a meter of 10000. Accuracy is a basic parameter!
Great lesson. Thanks.
Thank you for awsome video
Great video, thanks for an honest review. The one video I watched from EEv, I forget what it was he was reviewing, but he got a unit designed for US 120v, some how managed to plug it in to full AUS 240v, and was actually insulted the manufacturer didn't bend over backwards for him after he deliberately fried their unit. That turned me off from ever going back there again. Not for any kind of product review anyways.
cool stuff. all the info I needed. thanks
I ended up with a Bryman 869s as I wanted to cover audio tube amps (1000V CATIV), 0-100KHz to 0.01mV (50K or 500K count), resistance, capacitance and current. Also TrueRMS. I have two low cost meters I've used for over ten years but I was weary of using them on 640Vdc between rails and for house mains testing (the 869s seemed. todo well in tests at 5KV transients and with mods was happy with 14KV transients). I agree the best multi meter is the one you reach for. I have a small low cost one that has done me proud but maxes out at 300V and doesn't have capacitance testing. Thermocouple is useful for testing temps (it will take two) but for hand held accuracy and resolution it's hard to beat.
Very nicely done. Thank you, not just for the video.
Welcome
Thank you sir, great video
Really helpful video, thanks a lot :)
Very helpful video. It would be great if it gets updated. Thank you sir
Your are my hero today!
You eliminate the Owon meters because of their 6000 count range, and keep the Anengs. But when you check the accuracy of the Anengs, you see that the last digit between 6000 and 9999 doesn't give you any usable information anyway because it's ±0.5% at best, ±1.0% in most cases. I don't know the Owons, but they might show more usable information despite the lower count.
You are fantastic professional.
Great to see hear your comments for home use multimeters.
😀👍🏿Good Stuff,GreatTips
The Owon B41T has a 10k resolution and a bluetooth connection. BT is a plus, mainly for logging datas and using a home made HUD. Moreover, my old Fluke 77 died this morning. It was quite old, I loved it since 1994 when true RMS DMM wheren't that common.
The AnENG 800X series are great cheap DMMS. The UNI-T UT61E is a good cheap mid0-high end DMM as long as you don't care about input protection or work with dangerous energy levels.
Aneng multimeters are good and affordable for students. I had a sub 10$ one from Aliexpress that carried me through university. It was missing capacitance, frequency and microamps measuring, but it had everything else that is essential and hFE measuring which I noticed is missing from some more expensive meters.
Now waiting for my Habotest HT118A to arrive, triple the price of the old one, but with more features and being more modern.
I got a Tacklife DM02A for Christmas, it seems to work fine for me where i'm at in my electronics journey.
Thanks, again, for another great review. I agree about EEv - he has nice stuff and one probably gets a little jaded, but if i hear, "IT'S JUST CRAP!!" again about stuff other people are finding acceptable in otherwise honest reviews I am going to have to start re-thinking how much I value his opinions...
I have pretty much decided on the UT61E. The UT61D has the back light, but the higher resolution on the UT61E is better for small values. The worst thing I have found about the UT61E is, because it is so highly placed in all these shootouts, the dang price has gone up by $15! People on Ebay are trying to sell them for over $100! I like Ebay over Amazon for most things, but that's just insane...
Voltage,
current,
resistance,
micro-amps,
capacitance,
diodes,
range of readings: counts (resolution),
features: light-up jacks,
thermocouples (temp),
backlight,
square wave generator ... range...
price.
Screenshot
@@steveshields2293 done.
UNI-T UT61E... best value multimeter there (extremely accurate, true RMS & data logging).... 😁👍👊
@viperhawk56 este tenma te da la caida de tension en diodo porque el ut61e no lo hace?
I bought the UniT 61E a couple of days ago, now I can't wait for it to arrive. Maybe I'll buy an Aneng to measure temperature.
Really useful vid!
Crocodile Dave did say that those cheap meters have there place and they are good for battery operated circuits. I have a cheap multi-meter and it works good for what I use. The thing is for power mains one is going to want a more expensive multi-meter.
There is literally a perfect version of the aneng with everything that I've ever need.
I bought Richmeters 102 Just because I could afford it and avoid paying taxes.
Hey thanks this was a really good, plainly objective video on choosing a meter based on features, needs etc. in the affordable hobby range. For me im just an older diy'er with some basic knowledge and some electrical backround who wants to get back into hobby electronics - so im fully aware I dont need high level input protection for 98% of my uses as I just want to work mainly on circuit level voltages, breadboards, kits etc. In that vein during the process of looking I definitely caught the bug for collecting multimeters. I have four of the Aneng 8,000 series including two 8009's and I have four because its been my experience that soon as you find a product you really like these days they seem to stop making it or they "new and improve" and ruin it--lol Ive also found certain of the newer Mustool meters are really decent so I have two of those as well. Theres also some good units from Tacklife, I have both large and small models from their line, their small DM03 is a nice ruggedly built and accurate meter that only runs about ten or fifteen bucks and I love them but not as feature rich as the Anengs though only 2,000 count they are true rms, autoranging, pretty accurate and cost even less than the Anengs. I have a few more meters but ive gone on too far already, its amazing the functionality and even accuracy you can get for such low cost these days. One of the kits im going to build is the 30V 5A power supply you built awhile back from Bangood, I already have a transformer and the rest is on the way. Thanks for all the info you share.
Thanks for the kind words. I too am a multimeter collector. I should have the new Aneng Q1 in the next few days.
Oh yeah - I really liked the Q1 a lot when I first saw it, then I made the mistake of watching "Sir Daves" video review on it (lol) where he showed its an energy hog etc and I let him sour me on it etc. - but I still might get one anyway - what a sharp looking upgrade to the 8009. But I may wait a bit as im wondering if since its a new model maybe after some time with the public they will improve what ever it might need to get it into full primetime, that is one sharp looking display and modern looking with the buttons. Say, have you seen the larger "Bside" branded meters that look just like large versions of the Aneng 8000 series-? I have a "Bside ZT302" 20,000 count meter and its almost like having a larger sized 8009 but with four jacks, - the same quality and accuracy seems to be there too, though I still like the small size of the 8000's. Ive read where the OEM manufacturer for the Anengs and similar is a company called Zotac, but I dont know either way. Cant wait for your review on the Q1, I also think if they really wanted to add sales Aneng could maybe make a few key improvements to the 8009 to make it almost perfect, though im nitpicking here - such as maybe some rubber on the back, and sides like the new Q1 so it doesnt slide around on the table. I made an excellent stand for my small meters by combining a certain cheap adjustable phone stand and a dashboard phone clamp to make an excellent meter stand, I really should do a video on it. Along that line how about a little better kick stand for the 80009 with a bit more width and rigidity to make it more useful. Then theres Daves complaint about missing ranges on the low end, seemed to be one of his biggest complaints - (among many) -lol Myself id like to see a bit longer easier to find set of fuses, the little ones in the Anengs do indeed seem to be hard to find, so far at least - though I havent really burned one out yet. Saw one guy added a longer one to the board on the milliamp side. L8ter.
I still work with the hape mi-6 mk7 and its works fine for me, i do only volts and amps and ohms.
I'll look this up myself, but as a suggestion, I would describe what each capability is. I have no idea what "counts" are, or why having more is a good thing. Other than that, great video!
Thanks. The Fluke 87V is better suited for an electrician. The Brymen 869s is a MUCH better choice for electronics. I have both of them and use my Brymen the most.
... and the Brymen has more robust front end. I have a Brymen 867s (about the same as 869s but lacks Temperature capability and $80 cheaper!) for $250 you get a multimeter with 500,000 counts (5 4/5 digit!), DC current measuring accuracy ±(0,1% + 20 digits), DC voltage measuring accuracy ±(0.03% + 2 digits), very fast bargraph and data logging. It doesn't get better than that for that price.
... Also Brymen is much more open with their customers.
I have a good enough £23 UNI-T UT210E clamp, a £3.50 meter that beeps, measures capacitors and rectifiers, and a ridiculously expensive greenlee ($£%&**!) which I daren't take out of the house.
To be honest since I stopped running training I haven't used anything more than the machine that goes beep. If it's faulty you usually can't measure the real properties anyway. I'd love an oscilloscope and all the other trimmings but I just can't justify it to myself, let alone the wife.
For people who are trying to learn, yours is a nicely balanced and most important, realistic discussion (AvEs "This cost $1,000,000 but when I put this saw down, I'm going to hit it with a hammer (which cost $10,000) to see when it breaks", isn't much help to beginners.). The dilemma is, if you start simple and buy cheap and then get the bug. Within a week you'll be lusting after better kit. I've seen it many times with computers/tablets... people buy a £20 basic ... find the subject is better than sex and end up having to buy better quality within a month.
My real contribution unfortunately needs the AvE approach. I love the idea of something for nothing. And there is a train of thought that says "if you buy cheap you can afford to replace every year". Anyone who has worked in the field knows the frustration of finding your equipment isn't working, especially when you've taken hours to get there and you are are up high. the cheaper the kit the more likely you'll be let down by flimsy switches. My £3.50 machine that beeps uses an un-greased, un-sealed display and function selector that uses hair fine alloy contacts - I doubt it would survive a humid day let alone a dusty room. All the functions in the world aren't worth a tinker's damn if you can't select them. Difficult to determine - but worth the effort
That's why i said at the beginning if you do this for a living, buy the Fluke 87V.
Yes I'd agree, but especially if you are buying cut price, there are things to look for that show the likely safety level of the meter, Id have been a little happier in this case if youd mentioned some of them ... many beginners won't know they exist let alone what to look for yet. Some of the "facilities" will never be used ... just there to up the options count.
And some of them are best not used until your novice has a little wool on his/her back. Personally I wouldn't encourage users to test current until they've mastered the basics. Volts and ohms easier to get away with - even small amps tend to make big bangs people need to know in their bones that those probes are potentially lethal when they select "A" even in common everyday low voltage components - esp if there's a lithium battery or a big capacitor. All the cheap chinesium electricals have green amber and red outcomes and someone with a shiny new meter will be looking to find them ... Big clive has made a career exploiting the dangers of everyday kit.
There's also the NKTech NK51E, I love mine. I'm also considering buying a Vici VC99 as it includes all the features you've mentioned (including temperature), a transistor tester, relative mode (which none of these have unless I'm just being blind) and a bar graph display, all for only £25. Maybe you could get a Vici VC99 and test it out? I know you like to collect multimeters.
Vc99 I will get one
You're being blind. UT61E has REL
Thanks
well done
Cool just video looking for....
Hi Paul, thanks for this review. Most other reviews seem to focus on what I consider "professional" features (CAT isolation, fast acting fuses etc) -- all of which push the price of the meter up into the $100-200 range. As you point out, for the home guy, that's not necessary what so ever. Its ridiculous to think that you could buy a decent scope for the price of some of these meters, and that's what other reviewers push!
Agrees but decent high voltage protection is necessary. Like it or if you're in electronics you will end up dealing with AC mains and while troubleshooting motors, 3 phase high voltage circuits you want a safe meter, especially if you're Indian ;)
Hi Paul, I looked in your videos list and I don't see any Analog Multimeter review or suggestion. Could you make a video on the best overall Analog Multimeter. I would appreciate that. There is something I like about the analog multimiter.
Brymen has also done great things making stuff of quality/functionality to rival the Fluke meters at a price that is more accessible to hobbyists. I paid $100 for my BM235 and it was worth it, but a $500-600 meter would not be.
My Brymen 869s is worth every penny.
I'v got one too and it beats fluke price/performance wise.
flexairz Yeah, but the probes make a big difference. My 87V works better with Probe Master probes. The 87V probes are about 5 years old now though.
I think for home use Klein makes the best ones .i love my Klein MM700 .For work I use The Fluke 87V
I had missed the fact that the AN80008 has this function generator while I don't really need the NCV. Great. But both meters seem to have a gap between μA and mA, I don't know if this is important and I need to find out if any other cheap meter doesn't have that gap.
What is best for a beginner and for troubleshooting components and circuits
Hi. Aren't those holes for the transistor important for testing them? Do those make it easier to test transistors?
For stuff that doesn't matter we have tons of choices. For things that matter we have very limited choices
I think the function generator is a bit of a gimmick.
It's very limited, and if you use it to inject a signal in your circuit, you can't measure anything...(no signal output and measure at the same time)
Better buy a cheap $10 signal generator on aliexpress that can do way more and doesn't occupy your dmm.
I am going to buy the UT61E due that have the data logger link with PC.
Hello! Best digital multimeter video I've seen yet. Stupid question - is there one that also can show if the sine wave output is pure? If not do you know what that device is called? It shows a picture of the wave. Subbed
I believe you're looking for an oscilloscope?
Os there a mash up of the 2008 and 2009 meters so you have both square wave gen and a bsckloght?
It is so important in electronics to have a temperature reader. I can check temperature in my US. How about ammonia meter?
The main feature on the long run is Reliability and there is where the money are to be spent.
I still use vacuum tubes. Built 3 Fender clones in past 2 years.
Ice built 2. Which models did you build?
@@learnelectronics Vibro Champ, Princeton Reverb, Deluxe Reverb. All Blackface.
sir which multimeter is the best one
these cheap chinese multimeters are a dream come true for all us beginners and they have fulfilled our fantasies of owning different kinds of cool multimeters. instead of buy those expensive meters make a hole in our pockets. my first multimeter UNI-T and my second ANENG 8009 just love it. gonna buy another one even better.
Cool, what's a good range for the resistor, capacitance and current for repairing monitors, video game consoles and PC and Mac motherboards, Wacom drawing tablet, GPUs and power supplies?
Thank you.
God bless, Rev. 21:4
There is a lot to be said for the VTVM. But then I like the Edsel too.
Absolutely, VTVMs were great. But the readings could vary greatly from one meter to the next and even during the life span of a single meter. I'm simply saying that the digital ic's in these modern meters are less hassle to deal with.
Nice video but I'm kind of surprised you didn't mention True RMS or NCV as features. I think these are less exotic and more practical than square wave.
I just ordered my 8009, I was kinda torn because the 8008 is a few bucks cheaper but decided that the temperature and NCV were something worth a few doll hairs. About a time, I have wanted one to replace my shitty old Mastech since this video was released.
@@Barolax I ordered a Bside ZT-X (ANENG Q1 clone) because I wanted to try something different. I agree. I think the temp and NCV is worth a few extra dollars. Oddly enough, I am also replacing an Mastech, an 8229 which I have used sparingly over the years, but recently started using it daily. Then out of the blue it I turned it on one day and it was malfunctioning. Oh well.
@@richard1113 my Mastech is from around 2012, can't recall the model. Cost a whopping 15 dollars, doesn't even have continuity testing and the probes are just plain awful. But it has served its purpose, now I just need a tad more from my tools.
Even if you are a professional, you don´t need a Fluke unless you are doing laboratory work, and even then, you would probably need something better than a Fluke. I have been servicing medical equipment (CT-MR) for the last 30 years and never really needed a Fluke, though one of the companies I worked for provided me with one during that time (cheap Fluke version though). Save your money and get a nice and good meter from some other brand. Even Fluke manufactures many of their meters in China today, so made in china is not a reason to reject any other MM. Base your decision on reviews.
There certainly are a lot of people that are working on vacuum tube guitar amps!
What about safety? True to advertised fuse ratings and such?
hey man, what's heppening! i think first item you focus should be number of digits!, then sound, temp, humm, ....Thanks
For me, I will choose a multimeter with NCV and Temperature detector, and there is it I’ve got a NEWSTAR UT-2032
You had me at "gravy". Cheers, good vid ✌
How about impedance? Very important characteristic.
Can you PLEASE review the Tacklife DM06????????🤔🤔🤔🤔
Yep. Ordered one today.
Are the leads sold separately on some of these multi meters?
No, all come with leads
Could you please put the link of Mastech multimeter at Amazon?
www.amazon.com/-/es/Mult%C3%ADmetro-autom%C3%A1tico-encendedor-temperatura-MS8229/dp/B0094DH8UO/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_es_US=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=Mastech&qid=1580271350&sr=8-3
the model number?
i spent 7 years in the navy on submarines during the 80 i got out after getting hurt . I am a nuke electronic tech but on a sub you get to know everybody so i do know some sonar tecks.
At first look submariners could seem coward, they're quietly sending torpedoes built to kill masses ! In fact we can only admire their courage, 85% of german Uboot crews died during WW2, this is a fact.
I just got into soldering and need to test resistors. Will the $10 multi meter do the job?
yes it will
Data logging feature is a nice to have thing as well, although that doesn't count as a measurement as such pretty much like REL, MIN, MAX and alike.
How about transistor test ?
Great video, but why did you rule out the last full sized meter. The video cut off. Did you eliminate just based on price? Also many meters claim to read diodes, but some cannot light LEDs. The other thing is you kept the Master that had 6,000 counts yet El minted the two oWon which also had 6,000 counts. Why did you do this or was the Master a higher count unit and you accident y said 6,000
Speaking of gravy. Eating while electronicsing is not recommended. Surprisingly it turns out that multimeters don't react all that favourably to being dipped in gravy.
do any of those test continuity ?
All of them
I forgot what the range on that ancient random huge expensive 6000ct unbranded one i have somewhere is (i think it's a CEM, i'm not sure, i should check), but it measures capacitance but it won't actually ever measure capacitance. It certainly doesn't go up to 1000µF and it doesn't measure pF either, so whether it's power supply smoothing or whether it's the compensation for a microcontroller crystal, you're out of range. That's disappointing, isn't it?
But i wonder, you managed to make a multimeter video without mentioning the continuity buzzer even once? How so?
They all have continuity buzzers.
Even the freebie? That's nice of them.
I did not hear you state or compare any of the basic setting accuracies.