If you cut your transfer paper close to the edge you use to line it up, in this case the edge of the strong back, it’s much easier to place and peel. Just a thought.
I've used that method in the past. The clear plastic distributes the internal light throughout itself very well, any light penetrating the inner surface spreads through the surrounding area. The outer surface still needs to be lightblocked because the areas outside the windows would still glow, so you dont gain any benefit by lightblocking inside really
@@MotionPictureMiniatures That is the problem that all clear kits have though. I think Round2 could have changed things up by adding clear window inserts along with inserts for the Nav lights along with molding the window areas open. Basically having the benefits of both the clear and Opaque kits.
The 1/1400 kit already has too many corrections and modifications needed to warrant re-tooling. They'd be better off making a new up to date kit, preferably in 1/1000 scale. That's my hope at least 🤞🤞🤞😎
Never done this, but I think that another approach would be to lightly sand down the window outlines, that way when you put the mask on, you don't have to worry about position issues. IMHO
@@patharmon9760 I'm working on 2nd version of the dorsal replacement as well as the warp nacelle grille parts, but these have had to be put on on hold with the rest of the project for now
If you cut your transfer paper close to the edge you use to line it up, in this case the edge of the strong back, it’s much easier to place and peel. Just a thought.
You ever think of doing a window mask for both sides of the hull then you can light block both sides without losing the windows on the inside?
I've used that method in the past. The clear plastic distributes the internal light throughout itself very well, any light penetrating the inner surface spreads through the surrounding area. The outer surface still needs to be lightblocked because the areas outside the windows would still glow, so you dont gain any benefit by lightblocking inside really
@@MotionPictureMiniatures That is the problem that all clear kits have though. I think Round2 could have changed things up by adding clear window inserts along with inserts for the Nav lights along with molding the window areas open. Basically having the benefits of both the clear and Opaque kits.
The 1/1400 kit already has too many corrections and modifications needed to warrant re-tooling. They'd be better off making a new up to date kit, preferably in 1/1000 scale. That's my hope at least 🤞🤞🤞😎
Seeing you pull off the windows masks gave me a bit of PTSD :D
Yeah me too, it only re-enforced my resolve to NOT mask them all throughout the project, and to only mask windows where absolutely necessary....
Never done this, but I think that another approach would be to lightly sand down the window outlines, that way when you put the mask on, you don't have to worry about position issues. IMHO
That would work fine if following the kit window positions, these are slightly different so the old window recesses have to be removed completely
Forgive me if I missed it, but are you planning to offer these corrected parts as well?
Hi Pat. I give a detailed description of all the parts that I currently sell in Part 1 of the series. Thanks for watching 👍
@@MotionPictureMiniatures I hadn't watched further into the series, and was hoping you were mastering some new parts haha.
@@patharmon9760 I'm working on 2nd version of the dorsal replacement as well as the warp nacelle grille parts, but these have had to be put on on hold with the rest of the project for now