How long can you power a 5,000btu air conditioner with a 12v 100ah Lifepo4 battery? Let's find out!
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- Опубликовано: 20 июн 2024
- I wanted to do a test with a small 5000btu windows air conditioner and a 12v 100ah Lifepo4 battery. This test is to find out how long the air conditioner will run when it's 100 degrees outside!
List of the Items in this Video:
Frigidaire FFRA051WAE Window-Mounted Room Air Conditioner, 5,000 BTU with Temperature Control and Easy-to-Clean Washable Filter, in White
amzn.to/3xu4QPV
Power Inverter 2000 Watt Pure Sine Wave Inverter DC 12V to AC 110V 120V with Digital LCD Display and 2 GFCI AC Outlets Dual 4.8A USB Ports & Remote Controller LEESKY
amzn.to/3J4USar
PowerUrus 12v 100ah Lifepo4 Battery
powerurus.com/products/poweru...
Amazon Link: amzn.to/4ckxdPk
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#inverter #LifePo4 #OffGrid
I'm located in the Texas hillcountry...
I have 9kW of grid-tied micro-inverter PV, 300ah LIPO (~16kWh), and a 4.4kW inverter. With the excess PV, I can generally run all my loads, including the two cheap dumb 5000 BTU Midea A/C that recently replaced a single 18k BTU A/C, charge my batteries without grid power and still send excess power to the grid during the day. It takes a really cloudy day to throw me off energy excess.
Before sunset, I start transitioning loads to off-grid, running what I can from PV until it shuts down.
My current main night time battery loads are 2 small chest freezers that draw 130w total when running, a 22cuft refrigerator only that draws 130w when running, a 30yo refrigerator freezer that draws 232w when running and one of the A/Cthat draws 450ish watts continously, but sometimes drops as the night cools to a low of about 350 watts. Those loads use about 200ah (10kWh) of my battery capacity before I fully transition back to the grid in the morning, about 13 hours currently.
A/C is just a heavy load for batteries..., accounting for about half, or 5kWh of my overnight battery draw.
Temp is about 78-80° at sunset and usually a few degrees cooler by morning.
Thank you for sharing all the that great information and for the comment!
Excellent experiment, We cool our small camper with a 5000 btu ac and have been surprised at how long it will run after the camper cools off. We use a Ecoflow Delta and it shows a couple hours of power, but after the sun goes down we can double that and more.
Thank you! Outside temperature really makes a huge difference. Thanks for the comment.
Power requirements of a standard window unit air conditioner are much different than a larger inverter mini-split unit. Inverter mini-splits are so efficient they are turning up on RV's and running on solar. There's a BIG difference and it's a game changer.
Thanks for the info and the comment.
@@OffGridBasement I would love to see the same test done on one of these Inverter units. The comparison would be awesome.
There is a lot of hype with those Inverter Mini-split Heat Pumps. I bought 2 upper tier efficiency models for my house so I could run them off of solar and backup power. These have variable speed fans, compressors, and expansion valves. The efficiency is highest when they have reached the set point temperature and are about to shut off. The rated efficiency of these units is a SEER of 23 and 25. I don't like the SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio, which is a rough estimate of how much power will be used during the summer or winter) rating system as it waters down the steady state efficiency, the EER (Energy Efficiency Ratio, which is cooling [or heating] output versus power consumed) system was much better. I suspect SEER was adopted for mini-split inverter units because, the efficiency radically changes depending upon the outside air temperature. For instance, in the test conducted in the video, the mini-splits I have would only show an EER of about 10. I have observed that when the outside air temperature goes above 90 degrees Fahrenheit, the efficiency plummets. If the outside air temperature rises to 97, the EER drops to 7.5.
@@billharris6886 THANK YOU BILL! This is really good data. Still, having a throttleable air conditioner is a giant leap forward.
@@BulletproofPastor It is a huge leap forward if you understand and make use of the positive benefits. In my testing of a standard 60 Hz induction motor window unit versus the inverter mini-splits I have, the mini-split power consumption varies about 10:1 (1,000%) over temperature and thermostat settings versus about 20% for the simple window air conditioner. In plain terms (something you can sink your teeth into), my estimate of EER for my mini-splits is 5 to 30, depending upon inside and outside temperatures and unit throttling.
These are the kind of videos I like you to do like you used to do when you first started.😎👍
Glad you like them! The reviews help me maintain the channel, but these are the videos I really like to produce. Thanks for the comment!
I have a 5000 in my camper and I have solar panels hooked up to my batteries on a sunny day 500 watts will keep batteries fully charged during the hottest part of the day . That would be a good video to do
I do plan on adding 200w of solar to see the difference. Thanks for the comment and info.
I'm retired and live in a 2 bedroom apartment and my wife and I keep the temperature set at seventy eight. This is very comfortable for us and in the summer.If we feel a little extra hot at times we can turn a small table fan on for a little while. When I was working I was doing heat and air conditioning and also apartment maintenance. I remember one emergency call from a tenant where they said in the winter time that their heat was not working.. It was 90° inside their apartment.When I got there.Their heat was set on high and full blast. Their heat was working fine.The problem was that they were all living every day , just running around their apartment in their underwear only, very strange.
It took me 30 minutes to convince them that their heat was working perfectly and there was nothing more.I could do for it and that the only thing I could suggest is that they put more clothes on. They weren't very happy with the answer but that was the only one that I was giving them.
Sounds like they were tripping on LSD
It's amazing the types of people you come across in your lifetime. Thanks for sharing and the comment!
@@patpat586Or something...
They Need a humidifier
Great video. I run a small 3000w generator for 3 hours and charge fridge, batteries and little 8000 btu window HVAC, then I turn off the generator and run just the HVAC on batteries.
Thanks for sharing and for the comment.
What I do during power outages running off my battery is sit right in front of my small air conditioner. I mounted in the window behind my camper`s couch. When it`s 100 degrees in Louisiana with 100% humidity sitting in front of the air conditioner is a must when the thermostat is set for efficiency. I`m getting a second battery, MPPT charge controller, and a cheaper smaller inverter for backup. Before storms I top off my battery with a 20 amp LiFeP04 charger and I just got a second 30 amp charger today after seeing a deal on one. It came with multiple ways to connect it too so I don`t have to use the alligator clips.
That nice. Doesn't matter how big the room is when you do that! 😉. Getting another charger is always a good idea. Thanks for the comment.
People don't understand when that Humidity gets above 80% it's like Doubling the temperature
I have a EU2000i gas inverter generator that kept my refrigerator and 5000btu ac going for 5 days after a hurricane. I would run each one separately, taking turns plugging them in so as not to overload the genny if both kicked on at the same time. It used one tank (1.25 gal) per 20 hours, so less than 7 gallons over 5 days. I also hooked up a fan, 60w lamp, cable box and TV. It was a lifesaver! I still have it, plus I have a solar generator. I can actually used the gas inverter generator to recharge the solar generator if there's no sunshine. I'm planning a test run with the combination to learn how long I can survive comfortably with this setup. As long as it's not during an actual disaster, I think it'll be fun and educational.
Always good info to know when needing a quick setup in a pinch.
Appreciate it!
You're welcome! Thanks for the comment.
Correct, that's why in the hvac world, it's important to appropriately size the heat and AC.
Thank you for the comment.
Your test is valid. It tells us how to use a 100 amp 12 volt lithium battery, but not an air conditioner. Subtleties. Low fan is for high humidity. ECO mode on the compressor if you've got. Intermittent fan turns on and off with the compressor. Don't run it continuous. Open doors to the rest of the house to dehumidify it. Use fans.
Thanks for the information and the comment.
I did a 3 month monitor run of a similar AC unit in a similar shed shop in South Texas last summer. Similar results. I built the shed very well insulated, but the heat outside was rough, high humidity; about 30 minute drive from the Gulf of Mexico. 80*f is nice once the humidity is lowered. It takes a little practice to "calibrate" the mechanical temperature controls.
Thank you for the info and the comment.
Good experiment done properly!
Thank you very much!
Great video. Good info. I have a Midea 12000 btu inverter AC. Runs very efficiently and blows ice cold air.
Thanks for sharing and the comment.
I was thinking of getting that 12k one too. I have solar and wondered what the actual wattage was when running. Do you have a way find out? (The tag that is printed on the side is misleading)
Thanks -
My record using a 12v 300ah Ampere Time battery and a 2000w inverter using an old school 400w manual Frigidaire 5000 btu was 32 hours when it was about 80 degrees. It averages 18 hours with the thermostat set properly between 85 and 90 and 20 to 22 hours at 85 degrees.
Thanks for the info and the comment!
You would do a lot better if you set the thermostat for 130 degrees.
What's the point of 85 to 90 degrees?? Might as well just sit in the shade
@thisvsthat6930 the dehumidification in 80-90 % humidity here in South Louisiana plus a fan matters. 80 degrees with 50% humidity is comfortable, at 80% your sweat just beads up in a miserable way. The breeze from a fan won't cool you if the sweat doesn't evaporate
@@user-dt3sq7rw3b I have never been in an 80 degree house and thought it was comfortable. 78 and up and it's too warm.
I have 2 100ah lithium lipo4 batteries and 3200 watts of solar and I run my ac ,fridge and TV all-day long
That's great to hear! Thanks for the comment.
What size is your AC and approximate location?
The SEER rating of the AC is important! There is a 12v AC that Truckers install in the cab of their trucks that you may be able to use with a
Couple Solar Panels during the day and then switch to batteries after the sun goes down. Also, you may try one of the high SEER mini spilt which are lower amp draw.
There are so many things wrong with this scenario that inexperienced folks just don't realize, but I'lltry to explain: Simple math and a few facts are 5000 BTU equal .41666 of a 1 ton measured in BTU's. One ton in BTU's = 12,000 btu's which equals 1 horse power= 757 watts. So 757 x .41666 = 315 watts.... Accounting for fan watts of (approximately) 35 watts = ~350 total watts. Lastly, this 12 volt battery is rated @ 100 amps per one hour = 1200 watts.
Even if one were able to draw the entire 1200 watts from this (or any other) battery is not likely to happen and this is why: A 1200 watt (rated battery) ÷ by the 350 watt (AC unit) = 3.428 hours of run time. But accounting for losses in the inversion (2000 watt inverter) (changing DC to AC) plus heat losses due to electrical current in the wiring + inverter + battery you would be doing well to get 2 to 2 1/2 hours maximum run time with the compressor running and never accomplish much cooling while doing so. Bottom line: One would need 3 to 4 of these same 12 volt 100 amp batteries (connected in parallel) to cool that room with the AC unit to any reasonable/ comfortable level. Why? Because it isn't just the air temp you deal with, its the stored heat in the furniture, the walls, and everything else you're trying to cool too. 😊
bad math divide btu by 3.412 to get watts . so its 3516 watts = 4.695 hp = 12000 btu. so the rest of your rambling is just as valid.
This is just one example of a situation that's different for everyone. Thanks for the comment.
@@OffGridBasement I'm wondering about the power factor of the compressor. Electric motors are induction devices and therefore use both watts (real energy) and vars (reactive energy). Watts and vars using the square root of the sum of the squares give you va (volt amps). Va is how you calculate the amps which is always higher than just using watts. Also you could just use an amp meter for a case of the exactly. Oh, and don't forget the loss of the inverter which means you would need a DC amp meter to accurately measure the amps directly off the battery. How long it will run was spot on. Good practical video👍 Thoughts?
@@MudDogMandy next time I include an amp clamp.
It’s difficult to preform these tests because even if you succeed in isolating all the variables the next time someone attempts to use this information they will be doing so with a new set of variables (Outside temp and humidity, inside temp and humidity, solar intensity) I set up my solar generator after hurricane season aka winter, I then tested it in the summer aka hurricane season and both my fridges used double the power 🤔 I determined that ambient room temperature plays a big part in the fridges efficiency and had to alter my design to compensate 👍
I definitely appreciate the test as a baseline that’s why I watch videos like this 👍
Thank you for the information and the comment.
Here is SE Michigan, I have a similar setup with several battery banks (AGM, FLA, and LiFePO4) running a LG5k BTU. Running all day with 900watts of solar on one array using FLA, no issues. But once the sunsets, the real test (as your video shows) is how long a battery will hold up. I have 4-Renogy AGM 200Ah in parallel (12v) and honestly they SUCK are NOT cheap. The 24v FLA batteries actually do much better than one would expect. The LiFePO4 have a more stable voltage. My advice is this: Run the highest nominal voltage you can afford to lower the current drain which is what kills batteries especially at 12v and have a good or multiple solar MPPTs with at least 500 watts on each MPPT. My testing is good enough for me to keep the back room much cooler from 10am until 9pm since two MPPTs easily handle to load and keep the battery at 13.8 all day long......however, its much cheaper to use the grid, but in a power outage or off grid you don't have an alternative other than to run a generator. Also, my projects are wife approved since she hates heat!
Thank you for sharing that great information!
Yep, I just replaced the Renogy 200s in my van with an Epoch 460. Way better battery. Lasts longer, charges faster and it has an on/off switch.
Good Job, nice. I have this set up but have not tested it. Good to know.
Thanks for the video. It answered a lot of questions. I just ordered a couple of days ago an Eg4LL battery and the Eg4 off grid inverter to use as a mobile/portable power bank. This will be to power on occasion an 8000 BTU window unit when we lose power. Thank you.
That's great! Thanks for the comment.
Good video. Just remember, the in-rush when you start a system and when the compressor hits, will cause a spike. Lower BTU's and a mechanical start eases and prevents a solar system or otherwise from shutting down. It is recommended to run a 6000 BTU window AC and put it on eco-mode. Good stuff.
Thanks for the information and the comment.
I heard something about a soft start adapter for use with generators. I just heard about it and haven't done any research. I'm not even sure how it works, except to lessen the startup surge. Might be good content for another video?
Great video. Useful information. Well for some of us into that sort of stuff.
Glad it was helpful! You just need to apply the findings to your situation. Thanks for the comment.
I have a 5000 BTU air conditioner that I use in a 8' X 14' shed. On low cool it uses 480 watts and on high cool it uses 560 watts. That means high cool requires 46.7 amps on a 12 volt system. I am powering the AC with a gas generator for now. I also have an AGM battery bank with 500 AH storage and enough panels to exceed that 46.7 amp draw during 5 1/2 hours of peak sunlight here in East Texas when I get around to putting them up. So, on a good day I might have approximately 9 to 10 hours of run time without draining the batteries below 70%. then, it would be back to the gas generator. Anyhow, this was a good informative video.
Thanks for sharing and for the comment!
Interesting. Thank you for the video!
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment.
My home setup have 2x 425W panels, Victron 100/50, 12V 280Ah Battery, 2000w inventter and Toshiba Polar 25 AC unit.
AC i run most time with 50% power and takes around 32 amps / 400W when compressor is running.
Daytime i get more from solar than AC uses, evening i run it bit and night time its just in fanmode.
I use solarpowert also for coffee maker, airfryer, toaster and also charge my e-scooters.
Thank you for the comment and sharing your setup.
Great vid!👍🏾
Thank you! 😃
I have 2 of the exact same air conditions and 1 of them completely cools a tiny home 12x40 on low7 at 70 degrees consistently when the temp is 94 outside. My guess is it would have ran longer on the battery at the lower setting. Thanks for the video.
You're right. The compressor tends to turn off more frequently. Thanks for the comment.
Im a really warm person, I work nights and sleep during the day (not well with its warm). Even with a room AC unit, I need a fan blowing directly on me. I just use the portable fan as much as possible. The portable fan is actually more effective than an AC unit when using just one or the other. I'd only use my batteries to power the AC when I need to go to sleep. Or for like a 10 minutes cool down here and there when the room is unbearable.
Thanks for sharing and the comment!
These mechanicl controlled AC units are great to use with an appliance timer. I run one 2 hours on, 1 hour off when on grid power, 1 hour on, 2 hours off when using off-grid power. A fan is definitely needed either way. lol
@@MississippiHomesteadJourney my in room AC unit has a single push button on/off, so I am hoping it defaults to cooling if I use an appliance timer switch.
Intresting experiment
Thanks for the comment.
Nice job 👍
Thanks 👍
Appreciate your video.
Thanks for watching!
I got that same AC and I am looking into a Bluetti AC70 to run my Mac mini with great if it can run my AC too. During power failures.
You might only get about an hour of usage from the bluetti connected to a small AC unit. Fyi.. Thanks for the comment!
Why didn't it trip the braker or overload the inverter if it was using 38 amps ?
400 watts x 3 hours = 1200 watts !!
that is superb !!
you got exacly what the battery was rated for.
Thanks for the comment.
Excellent video. Thank you, Thumbs-up ~John
Thanks for the comment!
Thinking about getting the Allpower 2500 with a media 8000 btu inverter ac with panels for my off grid RV.
Thanks for sharing and the comment!
I really appreciate your videos, and need to see what inverter yiu are using, thanks
There is a link to the inverter in the description.
What do you think about mini split inverter for off grid?
I would love to get one for a test, but I will probably wait. I've heard they use half the wattage. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks 👍👍
You're welcome and thank you for the comment.
One of the biggest factors to how much power an AC unit will draw is the outside temperature. I am running a very similar 5,000 btu window unit in my Van with 300ah of Lithium and a very similar 2000 watt inverter. I am using a Victron battery shunt. When it was in the 80's to lower 90's I was drawing a total of 500 to 550 watts of power. That includes the power the inverter uses and the power loss from converting DC to AC power because I got those numbers from my battery shunt. Today it's 100 degrees with some humidity and I am seeing over 600 watts of power draw up to 675 watts for brief time periods. As temperature rises so does the refrigerant pressure inside the system, when the pressure rises the compressor has to work harder to re circulate the refrigerant. Maybe when you tested the other AC unit it was a few degrees cooler outside??
Thanks for the info and the comment. It was cooler outside when I did the 8kbtu test.
I run 2 6k btus on solar except one is in a window and the other is in the fireplace. I get pretty much exactly your same numbers at their respective temperatures. I monitor the back side of the fireplace unit with a thermometer. If I don't run my central ac and the house gets up to 85 degrees the back side of the fireplace unit will hit about 130° and pull right at 700 watts. I try and always keep it below 120°.
One takeaway is that helping your central ac out during the heat of the day will save you more money too because at night it will draw less power being cooler outside, if that makes any sense...
What about a good energy effic dehumidifier?
That's not a bad idea! Thanks for the comment.
Did like your information I want to know a freezer....chest what would it need....and in this 5000 window unit. Would you be able to run more than 3 hours if had additional batteries?
Yes. every additional 100ah battery would most likely add another 3 hours of runtime.
Hi, How do you like this inverter? I have 200 ah lithium and 200 watts of solar on my van. I wonder if I can get 6 hours of run time running my 5k A/C. A efficient inverter helps.
I like the inverter b/c it has built in GFCI. The watt meter in mine is a bit wonky, but I really don't use it.
Do you know if the inverter scales up to the load or does it run at 2000 no matter what. Bciz that would effect your time.
The inverter only powers what is needed. Hope this helps.
If you want to increase your AC ability to Cool, put the inverter out of the room your trying to Cool. It surely makes a lot of heat doing it's thing, and that would be more Loss than an S.O cord of appropriate size. Don't think that a large " looking" extension cord is fine, go by conductor size and length. Stay above the minimum recommended size for best performance.😉 Some people overlook this fact and can't keep things operational and blame the inverter. If your cord is warm, it's not big enough.
Thanks for the info and the comment.
The Mr. Cool Mini splits are a DIY type, but I didn't find how many watts they use to cool. I use a 24K BTU Senville Mini split for my 1,500 sq ft old farm house for heating in Wisconsin. Ony costs me $150 a month in electricity to heat during the winter. The AC is too good, I set the timer to turn the AC on 3 hours before I came home on a 95F day, and my house was 63F when I got home. If you want to use them for heating in Northern climates, make sure you get one that advertises heat down to -22F (Like Senville). Mine heats down to -35F. I have a small diesel heater for back-up heat when it is that low. A 12K BTU unit uses less than 1 kW/hr and could possibly cool your whole house. Hook up 1 kW of solar to your battery (if it will take that much) and you should be good to run your AC during the day if it's not cloudy all day.
Thanks for all the great information and the comment!
I Run Dual Victron 100/50 Charge Controllers at 24 Volts with 6 - 100 Watt Panels on each Controller feeding a CHINS 280AH Battery Bank of 2 - 12 Volt Batteries and My 6,500 BTU Eco Mode AC and Refrigerator Run just Fine at 3,100 feet from Sea Level in the Southern California High Desert 🌵 and also charges My Battery Bank at the same time 🇺🇸
Would a 1000 watt power bank power that ac unit? I'm new to all this interver, battery and solar stuff. Trying to figure out what's more advantageous. Power bank, like a Jackery or the inverter battery option.
Thanks so much!
A 1000 watt power bank will provide enough in wattage but you must check the specs in available amperage output. If the bank is capable of a 40 amp amperage draw it should work. But 45 amps or more would give some room. 1000w/12v=83 amps. If the manufacturer is being honest in its specs it should work. But also you much look at the specs on how much storage it has. If the battery bank is 30amp hour of storage it won’t last long even though it will work.
Thank you! ❤️
So, if the room was down to temp to start it may have maintained for 7-8hrs on that battery?
Yes. Probably more like 5 to 6 hours. Thanks for the comment.
i did something like this with my solar generator and a window a/c. i found if you put the window a/c to 'max cool' the condenser will never turn off, so the wattage it uses is always the maximum (in my case it was about 425 wh). when i put it the temperature dial to half way between min and max, the condenser would cycle on/off as you would expect and the wattage dropped to about 200 wh on average or less.
Thanks for the information and the comment.
18k btu inverter split unit for my room which is around 200 sqf how long do u think this setup would run it for keep in mind temp outside is around 100-105f and ac will be set to 68f.. i have electricity outage for 3 hours and just need it to maintain the temperature how would i go about calculating this.. the ac at lowest speed needed to maintain temp uses about 400w max
Also i probably need a different inverter that has 220v not 110v
Considering the temperatures I'm guessing it runs @ 400w consistently. Each 100ah battery is 1280wh, so you will get between 2.5 - 3 hours depending on how efficient your inverter is. Hope this helps!
So… set up 4-100 watt solar panels and you should be able to keep up with the recharge demands, correct?
During a sunny day, possibly. I would do at least 800w so the battery would charge as well. Thanks for the comment.
I have 4 6 volt Interstate exstreme deep cycles in series/parellel (450 amp hours) and 2000 pure sine wave inverter and 400 watts of solor running a Toshiba 5000 running on low and im not getting near what your saying. This solor stuff is resembling a ponzie sceme to me. I also use a generater to charge my battery bank to 100% and unfortunately have it running now because my bank is not keeping up even close to what i was sold.🤔
That sucks. I take it your battery bank voltage is dropping to low for your inverter to handle. All I can say is make sure all you wired connection in the battery bank are clean and tight. One bad or dirty connection could really make a difference. Thanks for sharing and for the comment.
I have 2.35kw of panels on the roof of my 14 x 36' cabin. My 48v 3k watt inverter runs a 12k BTU AC and 2 box fans every day with a 48v 100ah battery. The system also powers all my interior lighting, and a lot more.
Thank you for sharing your setup and also the comment!
Have a look at the new EG4 solar panel dedicated Mini split air-conditioner that runs exclusively off 4 solar panels. It's 16000 btu off memory and can be subsided with 110 volts for when sun doesn't shine. It's a game changer for Off Grid people like me.
If it works as advertised, then it would be amazing! Thanks for the comment.
You may already know this but it is the COMPRESSOR that is turning on and off, not the condenser. Good vid, I have a small camper and always wondered what it would take to keep its 5000 btu ac running.
Yep. Totally misspoke. Thanks for the comment!
Good video. Many variables can account for varying results. It would be good to know the amps when the unit is running and then when it is idle. I know this is not about efficient air conditioners but I prefer the mini split to standard window units. Anyway thanks for the video and all the best from north Texas.
You're welcome. When the compressor is running it used about 35-40A. It used around 9A with just the fan. Thanks for the comment and stay cool in Texas!
@@OffGridBasement yes we hibernate in summer in Texas. When I grew up in northern Minnesota we hibernated in winter. Haha
For a 5000BTU window AC 2000W inverter will be the minimum to go? Or can I make it with a 1500W?
A 1500w should work just fine. Thanks for the comment.
I have the Media 12,000 BTU window AC and it only uses 750 watts. Very inverter friendly.
Medea must be the top of the line AC unit. Lots of people say they are very efficient. Thanks for the comment.
I would like to see how long it would last if the room was cool already, to simulate a power outage. Will low cool level 5 keep up?
Yes, it will keep the room at 75⁰. If you are just maintaining the temp, I would say you could possibly get another 50%
Does your APP records your peak starting of the A/C? If so, how much current was it?
The app doesn't capture that. I would need to have a clamp meter attached. I've been told it has a soft start, but I haven't confirmed that yet. Thanks for the comment.
Ok, I thought you misspoke the first time, but your condenser isn't what kicks on, its the COMPRESSOR. The condenser is the outside coil, no moving parts, just a coil.
Yep. Completely misspoke. Thanks for the comment.
I would be curious where the comfortable temp would be, I am thinking if i set the temp at 78-79 just to be not uncomfortable, it would stretch out the time…
Yes it would. The compressor would kick on as much, reducing the amount of energy needed. Thanks for the comment.
I am running a 7000 btu Dreo. inverter AC unit on solar. At about half-capacity it draws around 30-40 amps DC from the batteries.
Thanks for the info and the comment.
How long would it run with 2 100-watt solar panels charging the battery?
Probably another 2 hours or so. Thanks for the comment.
I have 600 amp hours at 24 volts of batteries. I have no problem running the air comditioner for a few hours but I usually let the batteries charge pretty close to full before I turn it on. Mine is 6000 btu.
It should run for longer than a few! Thanks for sharing and the comment.
I would like to see a 48V battery with the same AC unit to see how much the losses improve with the smaller wire size and battery current.
Thanks for the suggestion and the comment.
May I ask how many watts your inverter uses as overhead at Idle?
It uses about 7w of stand by consumption.
@@OffGridBasement Thank you, Sir. I have a low frequency 2500/7500 that takes 50-70 watts. I wondered what the relatively same sized high frequency took.
Cool. :) I was expecting only about 2 hrs. I doubt I'll get anyone to do it for me but I'd love to get the results of the same test in an 8X6 room. Or basically the smallest room possible that could fit a bed
Wow. That might be a tough find. Might want to search for tiny house off grid AC. Thanks for the comment.
@@OffGridBasement A bathroom? Think I'll just do the math instead.
I have 6 24 volt 300ah batteries to run my fridge. It has been running it with no house power for 3 months. The solar panels run the device during the day time and the batteries at night.
With that much storage you shouldn't have any issues! Thanks for sharing and the comment.
So your saying a ac short cycling is more efficient?
It's more efficient if the AC is maintaining the temperature and not trying to lower it.
My window mounted swamp cooler runs at 170w and will cool my entire home off a deep cell for 12 hours. A much smaller feed as its mostly just a fan.
Thanks for sharing and the comment.
Buy a temp controlled outlet then you can set the temp to come on at and what temp to turn it off at.
Thanks for the comment and info.
Try placing inverter outside room, heat generator making ac run longer
I'm not familiar with your 12v app. I recently contacted an a/c retailer concerning their 8,000 watt window a/c
to find out the startup, and continuous amp requirement for their 120v ac air conditioner. I was told to expect
10-13 amp start up amps, no comment on continuous run amps. It would be helpful to know both your startup,
and continuous amps needed from the inverter to the a/c unit. I've also looked into the use of an RV Soft Start
device that makes it possible to run an a/c with a smaller power source/generator.
The continuous would probably be around 4 - 5A. I was told this unit has a soft start built in, but I haven't confirmed that. Hope this helps. Thanks for the comment.
Great video. I'd like to see the run time with same battery/same window a/c but with four added 100 watt solar panels. And also the smallest inverter that would run that a/c. And also pure sine vs. modified sine inverter for the same a/c.
Those are all great ideas. I'll add them to the list! Thanks for the comment.
Modified sine wave, especially the poorly modified cheap units, will shorten the life of your air conditioner. Some of the cheap inverters are no more than square wave with a spike at each phase shift.
There are many variables in a test like this. You should have no problem running it in that configuration on a nice sunny summer day.
Since he started around 5 pm, I don't think that the solar would help much, but I bet a smaller inverter, say 1000 or 800 watt one would help.
@@OffGridBasement
I'm curious, would it be better to buy another battery & switch to it when the first one depleted or wire them together. Which way would have longer run time ?
I wonder how much more time you could get if you had a small solar charger hooked up to the battery. Even if the draw was more than what the solar panel provides it should extend the length of use, hopefully significantly.
There are too many variables to really get a good answer. Thanks for the comment.
@@OffGridBasement have you tried daisy chaining 2 batteries together and seeing how long you get? I assume most of the energy is consumed cooling the room down but once at temp the AC shouldn’t run nearly as frequently
Definitely looks like geothermal (sprinkler pipe, water, + radiator) if off grid. Also, the portable AC units are generally on the higher end of efficiency as far as window air conditioners go, but nowhere near mini splits or whole house AC.
Thanks for the info and the comment.
My goal btw is for to five times the load so I’m cloudy weather I can still use ac . Overnight I think geothermal for cooling
Geothermal is a great way to go. I have a friend who loves his setup. Thanks for the comment.
I have a Midea inverter window unit that is about 30% more efficient than a normal window unit the same capacity. That might give you a longer run time. On low cool it pulls 2.5 amps (120 volts) and it maintains a 9x10 room at 75 deg. with a 95 outdoors temperature. That is right at 300 watts electricity draw.
That's pretty good! Thanks for the comment and info.
my question is, who made you cut off the hippy hair? I have the same A/C but I have it connected to my solar system.
Hahaha! I quickly realized hippy hair and summer heat don't mix. Thanks for the comment.
@@OffGridBasement lol
Now that's the kind of real world test I was looking for. Now, how long would the ac run if panels and a charge controller were added? Could it maintain the ac while the sun is out and still have the 3 hours when the sun goes down?
You would probably need about 400w of solar and a sunny day to pull that off. Thanks for the comment.
@@OffGridBasement Truth.
You are saving alot the system should pay for itself in in 12 years
If it's 100⁰ outside and the power goes out, this system would pay for itself in about 2 seconds! Thanks for the comment.
@@OffGridBasement Some people get stuck thinking payback periods. You gave a great answer. How long does his refrigerator, clothes dryer, dish washer, washing machine, big screen TV, Home, car, motorhome require to pay for themselves? My solar/battery bank/inverter system is a tool. My payback is when we lose power for days and my fridges and chest freezers keep running. Nice video you made, too.
I have a Midea u shape with a champion 998 wh and last forever around 5 hours in 72 ac temperature and 100 plus degrees outside I recommend Midea 8.000 watts efficiency
They seem to be the talk of the town. Pricey, but well worth it. Thanks for the comment.
How many watts does the AC take while cooling (compressor is running)?
Edit: I looked up your link 450w.
I have 300Ah lithium batteries, I guess I multiply your results by 3 to give me a idea.
I plan on doing the same test with a 230ah battery to see if it gives me about 7 hours. I feel like it should be longer. Thanks for the comment.
Yes Sir, but add some watts per hour rate for the large inverter's overhead. Also decrease running time because of the conversion loss using an inverter.
This test had two stages. #1) Cooling down the room to the set point temperature. #2) Maintaining the set-point temperature.
The first stage will pull a lot of energy per hour. The second stage will pull less per hour and is the more important reading, in my opinion. It will dictate the amount of solar power input that is required to keep the a/c unit running while the sun is available.
Thank you for the info and the comment. I plan on doing the same test with a 230ah battery to see the difference. I should get over 7 hours of runtime.
It's all about the SEER rating. Some units use half the power or more of others.
Thanks for the comment.
Is the battery sufficient for the duration of its charge? To play ps5 (12v 7ah
Yes. The voltage is very constant. 90% of the capacity is between 13.3v and 12.3v.
@@OffGridBasement How many watts do I need for a solar panel?
So if you had 3 100 ah batteries you would get almost 9 hours of ac ?
At least. Once the room cools down the compressor won't need to run as much. Thanks for the comment.
@ 4:05 It shuts off the "Compressor". (You said "Condenser"). The compressor is what uses electricity. The condenser is passive. Basically a radiator. 😃👍
I noticed that after I posted the video. My mistake! Thanks for the comment.
Is it hard on the battery to drain to 0%? I heard that to prolong battery life that 50% was the correct amount?
I say just use it. Don't worry too much about DoD. I drain mine below 20% quite often. No big deal.
@@OffGridBasement DOD?
@@unclefester4626 Depth of Discharge
Those little units don't do crap though once temps climb above 90-95 wouldn't even keep my fully insulated shed cool
Thanks for the comment.
just wow
Thanks for the comment.
Might be worth installing a soft start ....Look it up
Thank you for the suggestion and the comment.
for the basic rules, if you are running below 1000w, 12v inveter is ok, 1000-2000w, better use 24v and for 3000w and above, better use 48v. u can make your battery last longer with less strain and save on less thicker cable.
Thanks for the information and the comment.
Doing this same test at night simulating a solar system just using its battery power & setting the AC unit to low & it's thermostat set so the unit cycles off more frequently should extend the run time significantly also 200ah of battery would be ideal.
I do these tests all the time. You are missing so many factors. The first and most important thing is your thermal load. That will keep that ac compressor running non stop. I run a 5000 btu unit on solar. I can get 3.2 hours run time for every 1000 watts used. The bed room is a 20x20 room. My thermal load is very small. If I turn on the unit when the room is already at or close to the desired temp wich is around 73F, I can get over 4 hours for every 1000 watts used . That battery would get me around 4.5 hours in prime conditions
Correct. There are an unlimited amount of factors that go into this scenario. It's more just a proof of concept for people that want to know all their available options. Thanks for the comment.
a 5k btu window shaker pulls about 450whr running high cool and the compressor running constantly. start up wattage is around 650. your batteri is maybe 1200whr, combined with the fact inverter is around 85% efficient...well 2 hours is all your gonna get.
Thanks for the comment and info.
I am using 48 volt 100 amp lithium ion phosphate batteries. into a transformer down to 100% 13.8 at 100 amp. 2 a 16,000 watt inverter square wave. and I'm running a 5000 BTU air conditioner it'll run for an 9 hours on low cool. And three racks of 48 volt solar panels that are producing 18 amps keeping everything charged up.
Thanks for sharing and the comment.