Good job, and thanks for the link. I can definitely say that the adjustable head is an absolute game changer. On batch work just set the height you want and bang away all day with full control.
Liked the video.loved the shot with your toddlers it reminded me of my oldest 47 who pulled my first forging hammer of my bench and then realized he’d bit off more then he could chew was afraid to drop it so called on dad for help.
On the list, I checked out Gary's idea, I love it. Plus he can break it down to get it somewhere where it is tight, make it easier to move.@@FarmsteadForge
If you need more clearance for larger stock, remove the bottom die and put a 1/4” cap over the anvil. I have punched 3” square 4150 many times under my tire hammer. Also if you’re working thinner material like knife stock or thin plate, cut a 1/4” plate with the same footprint as the bottom die. This raises the bottom die and grants more control on thinner material, just make sure to look into longer bolts as the die rises. I use a machine like this (heavier anvil/ram) but they are decent power hammers and they are adjustable
Nice Hammer! I like the "build it yourself" aspect! I have the sense there may be a little bit of a learning curve/adjustment to get it all, Check, set and automatic.LOL Thanks for the post!
When I built my hammer the power in my shop was really sketchy and it wouldn't support a compressor that would power the Kinyon design. This design worked for what I had at the time. I hope that answers your question, thanks for watching!
Hello Jayce, perhaps instead of an adjustable rear beam being adjustable. You could make the current hammer have different sized parts of the lower die beam. Cut and it and make a few different lengths to make the opening longer or even shorter that way you can take advantage of not building a new power hammer or purchasing an expensive new machine. That would keep good productivity and then you can save for the best power hammer you actually want and have that as a backup in the future. A suggestion that I hope will help. Plus the rear beam would be solid and strong and the front beam that holds the dies can also be made strong too. Happy holidays 🎄
This is exactly how I built mine. I made the anvil about 1.5” shorter than the design then built a variety (thickness) of spacers that can be installed between the anvil and the square base to which the hardened face is welded.
@@dwayneburbridge3283 That's a good idea, I wish I would have thought of that when I made it. Mine could still be changed I suppose but it would be a lot of work.
honestly i think its kind of gross to try and "sell" plans for a machine like that instead of getting more people involved in the trade... besides just looking at it... a machine like that would be easy to build... its an elec motor that turns a pipe that lifts arms with a shock between 2 arms mounted on a donut thats off center to raise and lift like a trains locomotion... the pedal rocks the motor to act as a friction clutch to engage the tire moving the hammer up and down.
Good job, and thanks for the link. I can definitely say that the adjustable head is an absolute game changer. On batch work just set the height you want and bang away all day with full control.
Thank you for taking the time to comment Gary, it made my day!
@@FarmsteadForge you’re welcome 😉
Liked the video.loved the shot with your toddlers it reminded me of my oldest 47 who pulled my first forging hammer of my bench and then realized he’d bit off more then he could chew was afraid to drop it so called on dad for help.
Oh my little boy is the same way, he always takes the heaviest thing he can find then says "heavy, heavy!" Thanks for your story 🙂
Your hammer works great and is easy to use. I speak from first hand experience with Jayce's hammer. I need to build one. Thanks Jayce for sharing. MC
Add it to your list, you'll get around to it eventually! Merry Christmas!
On the list, I checked out Gary's idea, I love it. Plus he can break it down to get it somewhere where it is tight, make it easier to move.@@FarmsteadForge
If you need more clearance for larger stock, remove the bottom die and put a 1/4” cap over the anvil. I have punched 3” square 4150 many times under my tire hammer. Also if you’re working thinner material like knife stock or thin plate, cut a 1/4” plate with the same footprint as the bottom die. This raises the bottom die and grants more control on thinner material, just make sure to look into longer bolts as the die rises. I use a machine like this (heavier anvil/ram) but they are decent power hammers and they are adjustable
Thanks
Nice Hammer! I like the "build it yourself" aspect! I have the sense there may be a little bit of a learning curve/adjustment to get it all, Check, set and automatic.LOL Thanks for the post!
Yes there is a little bit to getting the spring tension and all of that - but running it is easy! Thanks for watching 🙂
Thanks for the video! Was there a reason that you like the wheel/CS design over a Kinyon design? Thx, Hans
When I built my hammer the power in my shop was really sketchy and it wouldn't support a compressor that would power the Kinyon design. This design worked for what I had at the time. I hope that answers your question, thanks for watching!
Just found your channel and Subscribed. Very nice work
Thank you! Thanks for watching.
Hello Jayce, perhaps instead of an adjustable rear beam being adjustable. You could make the current hammer have different sized parts of the lower die beam. Cut and it and make a few different lengths to make the opening longer or even shorter that way you can take advantage of not building a new power hammer or purchasing an expensive new machine. That would keep good productivity and then you can save for the best power hammer you actually want and have that as a backup in the future. A suggestion that I hope will help. Plus the rear beam would be solid and strong and the front beam that holds the dies can also be made strong too. Happy holidays 🎄
Good advice, thank you! I've thought about making thinner dies I just haven't gotten around to it yet. Happy holidays to you as well!
This is exactly how I built mine. I made the anvil about 1.5” shorter than the design then built a variety (thickness) of spacers that can be installed between the anvil and the square base to which the hardened face is welded.
@@dwayneburbridge3283 That's a good idea, I wish I would have thought of that when I made it. Mine could still be changed I suppose but it would be a lot of work.
I've always wanted one just don't know how much I'd use it but I like yours. What size is it? A 25lb or larger?
I can't remember for sure but it is around 50-55lb. You'd use it way more than you think you would!
..that is a slick modification Gary made to his. it ought not take much to add his mods to yours...
Yes it is very slick - I was instantly jealous when I saw it 😉
About his much did this cost to build?
Right around one thousand dollars or just under, but that was six years ago.
@@FarmsteadForge Awesome thanks. Even if it's up to 1500 now, it's still better than $4-6k for a hobby smith.
honestly i think its kind of gross to try and "sell" plans for a machine like that instead of getting more people involved in the trade... besides just looking at it... a machine like that would be easy to build... its an elec motor that turns a pipe that lifts arms with a shock between 2 arms mounted on a donut thats off center to raise and lift like a trains locomotion... the pedal rocks the motor to act as a friction clutch to engage the tire moving the hammer up and down.
Thanks for your comment.