I actually think that using light angle iron for the treadle frame its a good idea, cause if you use heavy stuff, you are to cause more damage to your legs. I have build 2 treadle hammer, one like this the "Oliver style" and one bassed on Clay spencer "In line hammer". For the Oliver one i've use light angle iron for the treadle, and its has hold up pretty well. For the In line i've came up with a simple desing of a shock absorber for the treadle, and it made a huge diference, it made the machine much more plesant to use.
I like it Jayce and I get what you're saying about the improvements you'd make but not necessary for the most part. Can't wait to see how and what all you do in the new shop/barn too. Awesome video and explanations. Take Care.~
Hey Chuck, good to hear from you - I hadn't heard from you in awhile. I'm excited about the shop addition, when it gets a little further along I plan on doing a video of it and asking for advice on how to lay it out / set it up since it is a unique design (being built on the front of the old shop). Thanks for stopping by!
I know I need something, I will start rounding up material. I like the crosspein idea on the hammer. Space for me is a premium so some extra thought has to go into the location. Thank you Jayce for sharing your thoughts on the treadle hammer.
You could make it like your striking anvil so it is portable. I'm sure you've seen John's at Black Bear Forge, it might be a little more compact and a nicer design than this one - however I like the simplicity of this one. Thanks for watching Randy!
Joyce awesome hammer sir. Very nice. I really want to make one down the road. Thanks so much. This video was very helpful and definitely useful video. Thanks so much for this amazing information. Can't wait to see updates, Projects an many more videos soon sir. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge On. Fab On. Weld On. Keep forge Lit. Keep Making. God Bless.
Thank you! I hope you get one built, they are handy too have in your shop and they can be built very reasonably if you scrounge for materials. Thanks for watching!
Something to consider. Where the hammer pivots against the post should be just a few inches above the height of the anvil face so the hammer face lands parallel to the anvil with the hammer starting its stroke at a much higher angle. Like the hammer swing of a human. At horizontal or more, starting of the stroke, the power is almost gone. Also where the treadle arm connects to the hammer shaft should be closer to the rear pivot position giving a slightly heavier pedal but a much harder blow.
You know of course, if you do make that so that it is cross or flat, it like your grinder will have a flap disk if you want to cut and a cut off if you want to grind. There's a 50-50 chance but it's always wrong.
I try to be very organized and plan ahead, so I'd make sure it was set up accurately for the job at hand - but a good point to keep in mind. Thanks for watching!
I don't notice any jarring in my knee or leg - but I think the the flex in the angle iron could potentially help with that. My leg doesn't bother me after a session but I'm a farrier so my legs are in pretty good shape. If you're not used to it, it might wear you out after awhile.
It's rather over engineered. I made a treadle hammer with a 16 lb sledge on a timber 4x4 frame . The anvil is a 6mm box over post end grain with an 8 mm reinforced top of that. No springs simply counter weight at the back that just over balances the hammer to allow it to rise. My treadle height is much the same as yours but the hammer lift height is equal to the treadle height, this gives me maximum downward force in relation to treadle pressure.
Most are based on the Oliver design you see on RUclips from around 1838 but simpler designs exist possibly older than that. They are intended to be a second man when you need more than two hands. The Oliver design is better suited to altering to a power hammer although motorising a basic treadle hammer is not impossible. Treadle hammers are meant to be simplistic in both design and use, modern younger generation tend to over complicate simple ideas.
Well Done .
Thank you!
thank you, great design and fixes. I appreciate you sharing your experience and how it can be better.
Thanks, I'm glad it was helpful and you enjoyed it!
I actually think that using light angle iron for the treadle frame its a good idea, cause if you use heavy stuff, you are to cause more damage to your legs. I have build 2 treadle hammer, one like this the "Oliver style" and one bassed on Clay spencer "In line hammer". For the Oliver one i've use light angle iron for the treadle, and its has hold up pretty well. For the In line i've came up with a simple desing of a shock absorber for the treadle, and it made a huge diference, it made the machine much more plesant to use.
Interesting, good to know, thanks!
I like it Jayce and I get what you're saying about the improvements you'd make but not necessary for the most part. Can't wait to see how and what all you do in the new shop/barn too. Awesome video and explanations. Take Care.~
Hey Chuck, good to hear from you - I hadn't heard from you in awhile. I'm excited about the shop addition, when it gets a little further along I plan on doing a video of it and asking for advice on how to lay it out / set it up since it is a unique design (being built on the front of the old shop). Thanks for stopping by!
I know I need something, I will start rounding up material. I like the crosspein idea on the hammer. Space for me is a premium so some extra thought has to go into the location. Thank you Jayce for sharing your thoughts on the treadle hammer.
You could make it like your striking anvil so it is portable. I'm sure you've seen John's at Black Bear Forge, it might be a little more compact and a nicer design than this one - however I like the simplicity of this one. Thanks for watching Randy!
@@FarmsteadForge Yes, But I like simple, I might have enough around to build.
Joyce awesome hammer sir. Very nice. I really want to make one down the road. Thanks so much. This video was very helpful and definitely useful video. Thanks so much for this amazing information. Can't wait to see updates, Projects an many more videos soon sir. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge On. Fab On. Weld On. Keep forge Lit. Keep Making. God Bless.
Thank you! I hope you get one built, they are handy too have in your shop and they can be built very reasonably if you scrounge for materials. Thanks for watching!
Something to consider. Where the hammer pivots against the post should be just a few inches above the height of the anvil face so the hammer face lands parallel to the anvil with the hammer starting its stroke at a much higher angle. Like the hammer swing of a human. At horizontal or more, starting of the stroke, the power is almost gone. Also where the treadle arm connects to the hammer shaft should be closer to the rear pivot position giving a slightly heavier pedal but a much harder blow.
Thanks for you comment, I appreciate it!
You should set that scene of you drawing out metal to some music!
Noted, thanks!
I think the height of the hammer should be adjustable so it would strike flat on any thickness of work.
That would be an easy modification. Thanks for watching.
Hi, Randy sent me. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching! I sure appreciate Randy.
Certainly makes building a treadle hammer seem less daunting. A lot of designs get to complicated.
Thanks! Yes I like to keep everything as simple as I can. Thanks for watching.
You know of course, if you do make that so that it is cross or flat, it like your grinder will have a flap disk if you want to cut and a cut off if you want to grind. There's a 50-50 chance but it's always wrong.
I try to be very organized and plan ahead, so I'd make sure it was set up accurately for the job at hand - but a good point to keep in mind. Thanks for watching!
@@FarmsteadForge Oh it will be a plus to have it that way, well worth the extra effort, but 90% of the time it will be on the wrong side of 50%. 🙂
Do you get any jarring in your knee or leg? How does your leg feel after a session?
I don't notice any jarring in my knee or leg - but I think the the flex in the angle iron could potentially help with that. My leg doesn't bother me after a session but I'm a farrier so my legs are in pretty good shape. If you're not used to it, it might wear you out after awhile.
🤝🤝🤝👍
Thanks for watching!
It's rather over engineered. I made a treadle hammer with a 16 lb sledge on a timber 4x4 frame . The anvil is a 6mm box over post end grain with an 8 mm reinforced top of that. No springs simply counter weight at the back that just over balances the hammer to allow it to rise. My treadle height is much the same as yours but the hammer lift height is equal to the treadle height, this gives me maximum downward force in relation to treadle pressure.
I thought it was pretty simple compared to some I have seen but there is always better ways to do things!
Most are based on the Oliver design you see on RUclips from around 1838 but simpler designs exist possibly older than that. They are intended to be a second man when you need more than two hands. The Oliver design is better suited to altering to a power hammer although motorising a basic treadle hammer is not impossible. Treadle hammers are meant to be simplistic in both design and use, modern younger generation tend to over complicate simple ideas.