Since posting this, I've found that putting the vehicle in neutral after the blocks touch the frame helps keep the blocks from moving around. With the long suspension droop, the jeep has to move forward a few inches before it leaves the ground. This was causing the blocks to shift.
I have a Wrangler JK 2-door and the 5000TLX QuickJack. I use the QuickJack all the time on my Corvette, but I haven't tried it on the Jeep yet. I want to install a lift kit, so I'm going to give it a try using your method. If anyone knows why I shouldn't do this, please let me know.
I don't know if the pinch welds are suitable for lifting or not. Jeep recommends these points on the frame for a two post lift. You would definitely need the QJ truck adapters to reach the pinch welds.
Body on frame vehicles you never use pinch welds on body as you would more than likely crush them. Pinch weld jacking points only on unibody cars. Basically everything except trucks/ jeeps/ suvs based off truck platforms
Since posting this, I've found that putting the vehicle in neutral after the blocks touch the frame helps keep the blocks from moving around. With the long suspension droop, the jeep has to move forward a few inches before it leaves the ground. This was causing the blocks to shift.
I have a Wrangler JK 2-door and the 5000TLX QuickJack. I use the QuickJack all the time on my Corvette, but I haven't tried it on the Jeep yet. I want to install a lift kit, so I'm going to give it a try using your method. If anyone knows why I shouldn't do this, please let me know.
Why lift off the frame rails vs. the pinch welds?
I don't know if the pinch welds are suitable for lifting or not. Jeep recommends these points on the frame for a two post lift. You would definitely need the QJ truck adapters to reach the pinch welds.
Body on frame vehicles you never use pinch welds on body as you would more than likely crush them. Pinch weld jacking points only on unibody cars. Basically everything except trucks/ jeeps/ suvs based off truck platforms