How To Choose Between A Transfer Switch Vs Interlock Kit With Power Inlet Box
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- Опубликовано: 21 ноя 2024
- In this video I talk about the transfer switch vs interlock kit with power inlet box when deciding which one is best to hookup your generator to your house. This is probably the most common question I hear when folks are trying to decide the best option for them.
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Items In The Video:
30 Amp Power Inlet Box: amzn.to/3913Nal
50 Amp Power Inlet Box: amzn.to/3C6HEUF
30 Amp Generac Transfer Switch: amzn.to/2XaIGzr
Popular interlock Switch Kits. Make sure the interlock switch will fit your panel before purchasing. These are not necessarily the exact same one in the video:
Square D HOMCGK2C: amzn.to/3mOvZlr
Square D QOCGK2C: amzn.to/2TO1wYo
Eaton EAT-CH200A: amzn.to/38aGGuv
General Electric GE200HDUL: amzn.to/2U4ygNn
General Electric GE-3: amzn.to/3l9na5D
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Blessings,
Adam
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Super. Somebody is missing the ball by not making main breakers with extra generator terminals and wire control so that you can just hit a switch in your house and the main kicks off, connecting the generator. Yes, auto-transfer switches, but i'm talking inexpensive retrofit, not complete replacement. (Remote starting is possible with any generator that has a starter motor, so you would not have to go outside at all.) You can shut off almost anything inside that is not needed without killing the breaker. 💙 T.E.N.
Market would be too small for major breaker manufacturers to get NEC certification for a new type across their product lines. You buy an AUTOMATIC Transfer Switch and have it installed.
Interlock kit all day long. Just label your critical breakers in the panel to have on during an outage. Exact same as a transfer switch except the added benefit of being able to energize any other breaker as you see fit. Personally I prefer the flexibility of running anything in the house. A transfer switch removes any flexibility you have and forces a compromise. I have an 11,000 watt dual fuel on a 50 amp inlet but I could also use my 3300 watt on the same inlet with reduced breakers live at once. I appreciate the video, thanks!
@@timothywillis7872 hard to imagine why that would be the case. Interlock is required if a generator inlet is connected to the panel without a transfer switch.
@@SuperVstech that’s what Texas power told me. If I wanted to run a generator as a back up, I had to use a transfer switch.
@@timothywillis7872 I'm in Texas as well, but all of the electricians we've gotten quotes from offer both options. My understanding (as I haven't found anything in my research) is as long as there's no chance of back-feed there shouldn't be a legal issue. We're going interlock for the same reason @philpom did. If our needs are drastically different for an outage in winter vs summer and we want the options. Cool thing with a transfer though is that it is easier to tell once the grid is back up.
Agreed. The flexibility of an interlock is by a far superior choice. People just have to be aware of the wattage of what's being used on each circuit and what their generator can handle.
@@philp3512 absolutely, Reliance has a nice 2 line wattmeter box (cat.no.MB125) for monitoring that I installed. They also have a nice little PowerBack device that sounds an alarm when ulility power is restored.
I installed an interlock with 30 amp service. Ran our essential circuits during a recent power outage. The dual fuel 3600 watt generator is also highly portable and runs our camper AC. Thanks for sharing.
I use a transfer switch with my Champion 7500 watt generator to power almost my entire house. I don't have my stove/range, heat pump or cloths dried powered by it because of the high amp draw. I have back up window a/c units for summer use if the power is out during hot weather that the generator handles quite easily. Even though it isolates the generator from the line I always throw the main breaker to guarantee no back feed of the power lines.
Thank you so much. You’re explanation was as clear as can be. Personally, I’d prefer the transfer switch. Simply because in an emergency when I’m not available. My family can operate the transfer switch without the worry of dealing with the panel.
You are very welcome. That is certainly a smart thought to take into consideration. Thanks a lot for the feedback!
I went interlock even with the family, training them when you are gone is key though.
This really breaks everything down so well. I really appreciate this video prior to meeting with an electrician for an install.
I decided to purchase an emergency power generator after receiving two emails from my electric company, warning me that I live in "what they consider to be", a high risk area, for "public safety power shut-off's" in the event of extreme temperatures and dry conditions. They said that if they deem the chance of wild fires to be high, they may choose to do a "Public Safety Power Shut-off" and that these power shut-offs may last anywhere from several hours to several days!
I chose the Westinghouse 12,500 starting watts and 9,500 running watts, dual fuel, 30/50 AMP generator and I purchased two 40 pound propane tanks that hold 9.2 gallons of propane in each tank, along with a pigtail auto switchover propane regulator and a 50 foot, 50 amp power cord attaching to a 50 amp power inlet box and an interlock device. Based on the wattage I predict I'll be using, I expect to use 1/2 gallon of propane per hour, so with 18.4 gallons of stored propane, I should have enough fuel to last approximately 36 hours. When the first tank runs dry at approximately 18 hours, the auto switch-over will automatically switch to the second tank and I'll just un-hook the first tank and take it to my propane refill place to refill it, bring it home and hook it back up.
A Certified Electrician charged $800.00 to install the power inlet box, circuit breaker and interlock device, including parts and the permit and that costs $64.00 at my local County Court House. The permit fee was also to cover the cost of a County approved Licensed, Certified Electrician to come out and inspect, approve and sign off on the installation, which never happened.
I would have "much preferred" a Generac whole home system (24,000 watts) but the cost with installation and paying the gas company, $3,500.00 to bring a gas line and meter onto my property, would have totaled somewhere between $13,000 to $15,000.00 as opposed to the approximately $2,300.00 that I spent, in total. I also purchased a couple of portable emergency air conditioners at Loews and that cost approximately $600.00.
UPDATE: Just a couple months after installing the backup power generator, PGE did do a "Public Safety Power shut off". We were on our generator backup power for 25 hours. The backup power generator performed flawlessly the entire time! Money well spent! We now have peace of mind.
As soon as you started telling this story, I figured it was CA. They are jacking you. PGE needs to do their job and care for their power lines. It is complete BS to shut off all power to consumers because of a fire hazard they don't want to prevent.
Interlock Kit, I'm sure it will be much cheaper for an electrician to run those wires up to my box and set up a circuit breaker for it, a lot cheaper than a transfer switch. Plus you get the added control of turning on what you need in the box instead of compromising with a transfer switch. great video, helped out a lot.
Very helpful. Now I finally know what I'm going to do to connect my gen to my house.
You made my day! I'm getting a 13,000 Watt whole house generator, and was seeking estimates on a transfer switch, which is not what I needed. So my solution is a lot cheaper than I anticipated, thanks to you
If you are going with a standby unit, you want an automatic transfer switch, sometimes called an ATO.
Bravo!! Finally a video that was helpfull and understandable at the same time.
I have watched several how to do videos on transfer switches. This is the first one that
was clear and to the point. Thank you!!!
Glad to hear it! Glad it was helpful for you! Thank you for the feedback Gene!
Thank you very much for your outstanding video. I just purchased the Pulsar 10500W TRI FUEL INVERTER GENERATOR. It also has a feature for parallel connection to the same brand generator. I had an electrician for estimate, and he definitely recommended the interlock switch. I am now leaning to the Interlock after viewing your video. If budget permit I can hook up to another generator and run the whole house with the interlock switch. Thanks again.
Good explanation. I hooked up an interlock with a line coming from an external 50A plug and a 12,500 watt on propane. I can choose the circuits I want to run and during hurricane season in FL, life with the wife without A/C is hell. I do have a small generator I loan out to others or I can use during cooler months in my house if needed. Costs - the most expensive cost was the cable from the external plug to my circuit panel at $105 and the plug at $43, which you would have to buy anyway. Other costs were the interlock switch for $38, and a 50Amp circuit breaker for $8.
Thank you for your concise explanation of the differences in the two approaches. We recently purchased a largish generator, 10k watt output, and have been looking into our options. Our power consumption calculation is about 8000w, so we purchased something that would not have to run at peak all the time. This allows for home heating with our pellet stove, cold food storage in two fridge/freezers, hot and cold water and lighting. Also figure we can switch off a few things and fire up a computer/TV for some DVD watching while we are "in the dark". We really have appreciated the effort that folks have put into providing clear information about our available choices. Your video and information are top notch! May 2022 bring us all peace and prosperity.
Excellent! Sounds like you all are doing your homework and getting everything setup right! I am glad you found the video helpful. Thank you very much for the feedback and enjoy the backup power!
For what its worth from a random internet stranger, I just installed a new outdoor load center with a main breaker and generator lockout w/ 50A input. I have 3 generators (for various reasons ranging from a 8kw welder to a 2250w 120v inverter) the 8kw will run my A/C, water heater, stove, microwave, etc individually with various lights and other small draws. It burns around 1gal/ hr at moderate load. For comparison my small inverter will run lights, fridge, freezer, TV, internet without issue. It burns a gallon every 6-8 hours or so. My typical usage for an extended outage is to run the 8kw intermittently cool or heat the house, shower, cook, etc in a couple hour time frame. After that I shut the 240V breakers off and run fridge, freezer, lights, and entertainment stuff with the smaller generator. Last large outage we had ~5 days running the small generator only was around $50 in fuel. Running the 8kw for 5 days would have been $420. The small generator I have was around $470. I keep a 55gal drum of 100LL aviation gasoline on site for all my small engines and as an emergency reserve for running the generators. Hope this helps or gives you something to think about.
@@danielh4995 thanks for that info good to hear real world stuff.
Are u running gas NP, NG
@@danielh4995 have u considered a no load low idle generator would do same
Really high quality video. This in conjunction with your other video on the power inlet box puts together the whole topic in a really short amount of time.
You sold me on Interlock for the Westinghouse 9500 dual fuel I ordered. Just spoke with my electrician and he refuses to install interlock for safety reasons and says they are not legal in NC. I’ve been working with this electrician for decades. I’m bummed to not go the Interlock route - but I gotta trust him…
Also I want to mention it DO exist transfer switches that don't hook into a subpanel, but into the main panel instead, which only consist of a tranfer switch and give same flexibility as an interlock. There are lots of transfer switches, even transfer switches that can automatically measure load current, and automatically start up generators and transfer over the power to backup when grid disappears, and transfer back & shut down generators when grid comes back. Some of these transfer switches will also have a in-line UPS too, so you have completely 100% uninterrupted power.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I recently experience my first 2 day power outage in Norther Virginia. I want to be prepared for next time. I learned a lot from your video. Thank you.
Great! Yeah it is not fun being without power. I went about a week without it and it is really what prompted me to do everything that I have done. Thank you for the feedback.
Good explanation. I chose an interlock kit, because a transfer switch installation would have required running wiring to my main panel and to 2 distant sub panels.
I don't bounce up and down to the panels and constantly flip circuit breakers. I have typed instructions next to the panels, including the order in which breakers should be flipped on (something important to have with a transfer switch as well), and turn a specific set of breakers on when I need my generator. In rare cases, I'll turn one off and turn a different one on.
That is the way to be. Prepared! Then there is no guessing when you have to use it. Thanks a lot for the feedback!
You do an excellent job with your explanations! Thank you for keeping it simple for us!
Well done. direct and to the point with no rambling, Thank you
Glad you liked it! Thanks for the feedback!
Nice Video. I went with the 6 breaker Transfer switch powered by a remote start 4500 Watt inverter. Also plumbed it for Natural Gas as well as reg gas. Wanted to stay small so it wouldn't us too much fuel and inverter good for electronics and the RPMs drop when low load. This way I can run the basics, refrigerator, Furnace, lights, internet/ computers TV, Oven (gas oven but needs 110V to open gas valve).
Thank you for this and your other video, I just purchased my first generator which is actually an inverter and I'm looking at stepping into a full house possibility over time. The first generator can certainly run critical need issues and I have the ability parallel them if I buy a second small one. I also am smaller because they're easier to move around and if one breaks I still have something happening whereas if I have one large one and it won't start I'm dead in the water. It's the military two is one and one is none Theory.
Interlock. 100%. You have complete control of what circuits you want to have power to in your entire house. Not to mention it is so much cheaper (and easier) to install.
unless customer has a 200 amp zinsco meter main. good luck. or some other 40 year old weird panel.
Not to mention with the cost of the transfer switch you can put that into a better generator
Generally I think an interlock switch would work best for most people no matter the size of your generator. It allows you to easily change the loads and the size of generator. Clear instructions on its use should be posted in or near the panel.
Lets say you were making dinner on your electric stove when the power went out, and you have a smaller generator. You can turn on the breakers for the range and kitchen lights. After the meal you can turn of the range and turn on the hot water heater and dishwasher. In the winter you would want the furnace on, in the summer the AC, or fans. If you're working in the garage you can turn those circuits on. With a transfer switch you are stuck with what you decided when you installed it.
Couldn't agree with you more. Mine powers my whole panel and I decide what I want to use and flip breakers accordingly. I.E. Turn the ac on to get it cool then turn ac off and water heater on for a little for showers then water heater back off and ac back on.
In the event of an outage, does that mean you have to first flip all breakers OFF before enabling the Interlock switch (or at least enough to bring the panel under the capacity of the generator)?
@@MrTeamriab To turn on or off a main breaker it is always best to shut off all the breakers first. Then turn the circuits on one at a time.
I just did an interlock setup. It was $40 for power inlet box, $90 for the interlock kit, $20 for a double breaker, $28 for a mount plate for the power inlet box (so it would sit flat on the siding). I also needed a chunk of wire about 10' long for the power inlet box. I had that as a left over from a previous job. I have limited room where my panel is and there was no space to install a transfer switch.
Everytime I go to Electrical Store they don't have any Transfer Switches, Interlock kits, no power inlet boxes.. Are they playing "stupid?" Or, are they stupid. An other store does not offer any Solution.
Thanks for the excellent video. Concise and to the point. From the beginning, you set out to give us points to consider in each situation, as opposed to a definite answer that might not fit everyone. Well done.
I had the Generac 30-amp Homelink transfer switch professionally installed. At that time, I had only a 2000w Harbor Freight inverter generator. When utility power failed, the small generator, with only two 120v receptacles, would not switch over power on the Homelink. After removing the HomeLink front panel, I used the provided lever to activate "test mode". Then, I could use the Homelink, but only at about 1800w continuous. I recently bought a Champion 4250w dual fuel generator, which has a 30-amp receptacle and should switch generator power to the HomeLink. Testing soon!
Thank you for clarifying the difference in the two. I recently bought a generator and now i know which i will have installed.
Thanks! Good info, I'll share with less electrically minded friends who need to know the basics. I have used both and prefer the interlock even with my small generator. I have a small house and have changed over all my 220 appliances to gas which helped and I can almost run the entire house now. May re-use my transfer switch for a solar project but we will see.
Very informative video. In our case we went with a interlock kit. Our range, clothes dryer and on demand water heater are propane. The only 220 items are our well pump and central air. We have a 13kw dual fuel portable genny that I can hook up to our in ground 250 gal propane tank in a few min. and plug into the side of the house. With our genny we can run the whole house without picking and choosing circuits.. Living in Florida it is important that AC operates.
I grew up in Central Florida without A/C. I've been sleeping with a fan ever since.
Great video - very well put together! I would recommend measuring the power usage of the house and deciding based off of that rather than the raw amp ratings. I have a new house with 200 amp service, but with all the lights being LEDs, my regular energy usage is 1000 watts, very well within a small or medium generator to power everything. My peak continuous energy usage has been 9000 watts, but that is only with the dryer, AC, and oven on all at once - probably wouldn't try doing that when in an emergency situation. I prefer having everything connected and simply remembering not to turn on the dryer, oven, and AC all at once. Only thing I have to worry about is AC inrush, but I will be installing a soft start for that (which you provide an excellent video on too!).
Hey Jonathan, I appreciate the feedback! Yes getting a good reading of what wattage is actually used is a great way to size what you will need. Sounds like you are doing it right and getting yourself all setup just in case you need to be! You will definitely love that soft start kit. It is a gamechanger.
you are obviously missing the inrush from many other devices with motors because the typical fridge is around 1200 watts right there. If you have several (and a freezer?) you have 3600 watts you forgot about, even though the average run draw is 2 - 3 amps. Edit: if you have forced air heating you have blower motors to deal with. If they are 10 years old they likely do not have a soft start.
@@rupe53 thanks for the reply. You're absolutely right. I fortunately only have 1 fridge/freezer and I'm going to give How to Home's soft start installation a try for my HVAC. He put out a really cool video explaining how to set one up. ruclips.net/video/uowVMYuPs-U/видео.html I already tested the heat and my generator had no issues powering that, it did die on trying to power the air condition condenser. In-rush definitely is something worth considering.
@@rupe53 I have a outside packaged a/c unit not sureaybe 4ton not sure the start watts hit
@@nicklopez5298 ... look at the data tag on the unit. It has figures for run amps and something else called LRA, which stands for Locked Rotor Amps. That's roughly the draw for starting up the compressor. Most gen sets can handle around 140% of their rated amps as a start surge if the "peak power" is not listed. Be aware that peak, inrush, start surge, etc is only for a few seconds.
I’m going with a 50a interlock. I want to be able to choose what I want running. I’ll likely be getting the 7 or 8kw predator inverter. Very concise and informative video!
Sounds good! Glad you found the video to be helpful. Thanks for the feedback!
Just bought the 8750 Predator Inverter Generator and initial impressions are good so far.
It seems like the transfer switch is ideal if you plan to switch to generator power often, or if the person doing the switching doesn't understand the loads within the house.
I think the interlock switch would be what I'd personally use, as its nice to have the flexibility to switch what is powered in case you need to use something you didn't plan on when you installed the transfer switch. Although, I'd probably write up a "interlock guide" that shows what breakers to disable for normal 'generator'/backup use.
That's the one thing I never understood about the transfer switch, it supports say 6 breakers and that's it...OK got it but why not just use an interlock kit and just turn those 6 on from the main breaker panel rather than move it over to a separate panel? Also, the interlock gives way more flexibility.
@@rustynail6819 Because some ones wife at some time will just turn every thing on and smoke the generator ask me how i know... 🤣🤣
why i went with Transfer Switch.
@@Mr_Meowingtons yup!!
@@Mr_Meowingtons=> My wife would never roll out the portable generator & know which breakers to switch off, even though I printed up complete instructions & tape it to the breaker panel. Ploblem solved.
THANK YOU so much for explaining this. This has helped me to decided that I need to go with an interlock kit verses a transfer switch. The interlock is just much more flexible. I don’t want to be locked into only being able to use a select amount of circuits.
For me, the big deciding factor was that my breaker box, while it had some breakers in it (sewer pump, dryer, and a few more), it has 3 large (100A) breakers for "Upstairs", "Downstairs" and "Garage" which lead to three subpanels. If I wanted to be able to switch individual things from upstairs or downstairs, I'd have to rewire them all the way back to the main panel, otherwise I'm going to use large breakers on a transfer switch and still have to go and turn on and off individual circuits not to overload the generator.
The interlock kit was much more straight forward.
Glad you found the right solution for you! Appreciate all the feedback.
Whole house generator
Wait ... one interlock in the main breaker panel does not solve your problem. It gives you the same choice (on or off) for each subpanel. It does not give you remote control to individual breakers in the subpanels.
Thanks for the info! I just had an electrician try to tell me I needed a transfer switch and interlock kit and extremely high-priced quote.
I have a 7000 watt generator on an interlock and it essentially powers all things I want including 2 fridges, microwave, lights, furnace and a small window AC unit. Totally happy with it. I made a 2 display project box showing wattage and amps and total amp hours for both legs. It’s awesome. I can monitor total usage by leg and see what’s going on. Cost about $50 to make. Great video
They really are great! I just used mine the other day for a few hours. Glad you liked the video. Thanks a lot for the feedback!
Can you explain the ‘two legs’ a bit to understand better why you monitor them both individually... I assume it’s for balancing the generator for wear and tear-but I barely understand how or what that really means. Thanks.
@@GMC-qo9xi - Typical houses have two 120 V legs that come in to them. They’re 180° out of phase. You want to balance your load across the legs. That means all of your appliances and circuit breakers should be split evenly across the A and B legs. If you have 20 load on the A-leg and a 20 amp load on the B-leg the neutral will have zero amps. Balancing them to a certain extent is good for your main circuit panel as well as your generator. The project box I made allows me to see the load on both legs.
@@condor5635 so I’m guessing/assuming that with a 240 breaker it’s even, as it’s obviously using both legs... so it would be specific to the 120 loads being used?
@@GMC-qo9xi correct. Dual breakers like a 240 breaker would have one on each leg
Very helpful, cleared up some questions I was having trouble getting answers for.
I think one of the biggest pros with an interlock is you have the flexibility to power any circuit. When I switch over to running on generator during an outage and before throwing the interlock I make sure to turn off the breakers for my electric water heater and electric dryer. These breakers are marked with red tape which makes them easy to identify.
I have a 7,500 watt generator. For extended use I try and keep the wattage being drawn to no more than 6,000 watts. I have also installed a hard start kit installed on my central AC so it isn't a problem running it on a generator as once it has started it draws 2,200 watts.. My wife and I know that when on generator you have to selectively run no more than two high wattage appliances besides the refrigerator at the same time (a stove burner, the microwave, hair dryer, garage door opener, etc.) . If after a few days my wife gets tired of cool showers I have the option to switch off the AC and then run the water heater for forty five minutes. If in the worse case the generator would be overloaded it would just trip off line.
For most people using a interlock and also by switching off all the 240v circuits would mean that they could run most everything else in the house while using a 5,000 watt or larger generator. With 12,000 watts then you can probably run most everything.
Thanks for the input Peter! Could very well be helpful for others in your situation!
@@max4life352 do they offer the two in one 110 breakers for your box? while not my favorite I used a couple to pair up some light loads (mostly lighting circuits) to free up a pair of slots for a 220 breaker
@@max4life352 most panels are rated as the total amperage, spaces, and maximum number of circuits. The ones I am most familiar with the number of circuits is double the spaces indicating that you could have all tandem breakers.
This rating should be on the inside of the hinged cover you can see and research
Excellent instructional videos. Clear, concise and easy to understand.
i like the simplicity of a transfer switch, but i think even with having to micromanage what circuits are on and off, the versatility of the interlock kit cant be beat for evolving power needs, especially depending what season it is when you lose power
Great video!! I have been a electrician for 23 years. Thx
Great video, I just did a video on my set-up. I opted for the InterLock for the exact reason you stated. Thanks for the detailed overview!
Awesome! Glad you were able to get it all setup and are ready to go! Thanks for the feedback Fran.
Awesome video Adam, You do a great job keeping it simple and direct call covering all the bases.
Could you talk about grounding the portable generator when using it for household and other situations?
Excellent info and presented quickly/professionally.
Super informative. I'm planning to purchase a 13kw portable and this helps me decide how to connect it.
I am recommending interlock kit as well. It costs no more in the end by the time you factor in the cost of the transfer switch, and gives you far more flexibility. My 5000 watt inverter generator (6250 peak) will run everything I need... Fridge, Freezer, lights, TV, Internet, Ceiling fans, Microwave, and just about anything else EXCEPT the central air (though it will run the gas furnace because the blower is on breaker of its own). My entire setup even with the pro install was only $1350. Most modern houses with energy efficient appliances don't take much power to run, though if the house is all electric and you want to stay warm, then yeah, 5kw may not be enough. For me, 5000 watt was the smallest 240v inverter generator I could find. I could have done with smaller if they made something, but you really need 240v generator to make the interlock work for all of the circuits. I recommend to everyone that asks about it to skip the transfer switch. It just doesn't make sense.
Same here regarding whole panel back up using Two each EU-2000i Honda Generators.
I converted my 240VAC/40AMP dryer breaker to be our new generator input breaker since our drier runs on Natural Gas using just a 120VAC receptacle. I made a parallel fused jumper across the 40AMP generator breaker to power every 120volt load in the house on the same single phase.
Steps to run generator
1 Open Main Breaker 240VAC
2 Open AC Condenser Breaker 240VAC
3 Start Generators and Plug in 120VAC/30AMP Cord to dedicated Input Receptacle
4 Close Output Breaker on Honda Parallel Kit 120VAC
5 Close 120VAC/40AMP Input Breaker for Generator Tie and now the entire home has power for every 120VAC load including the N.G Furnace.
We have a natural Gas Furnace, Water Heater, Range, and Dryer and Use 2 each 6000BTU Window units for Cooling, so this reduces our total load significantly compared to an all-electric home.
This system works great with only a few load combinations requiring any load shedding mostly for starting inductive loads. We are using this for emergency backup power on a 1800 square ft home in Houston TX.
The DuroMax XP4850EH dual fuel is the smallest 240v ,Peak Wattage on Gas is 4,850 with Running Wattage 3,850, on Propane is Peak Wattage 4,608, Running Wattage 3,658, I run my home 2300 sq ft home in Florida with propane all I run is all ceiling fans 4 bed rooms, TV.s Fridge, well pump, lights, and PC's, no central AC. or water heater, I have a propane stove, running it with the interlock. I only spend $320 for my set up without the generator, 3 years ago I pay $ 375 for the generator, so my total was out the door for $695 give or take. oh yeah when I run the well pump I turn off all ceiling fans.
I used a 10 circuit manual transfer switch for a few years and recently replaced it with the interlock kit. 8500 running watt generator. Much better set up for us.
For a smaller generator, you can build a simplified manual transfer switch out of a critical loads sub-panel with an interlocked generator feed on it. Then you have limited loads for the smaller generator combined with the cheaper interlock method. My real reason for having a transfer switch is the availability of an automatic transfer switch. If the power goes out, it starts the generator and once there's a stable output, switches the sub-panel to the generator. When the utility power comes back and is stable it switches back to the utility feed and shuts the generator down. That can't be done with an interlock.
I am a complete newbie to generators, electrical and all... I am looking at a Firman T09371 tri fuel electric start generator. I will be having it connected to natural gas line, so my running is 6900.
Am I to understand that an automatic transfer switch would fire up that generator for me? I assume I would have to leave it set to gasoline or propane for that and then manually switch on the natural gas after I realize the generator is running?
I am under the impression I need to leave the natural gas valve (at the house) off until I need the generator for back up power.
I am a solo 24/7 caregiver for parent with advanced alzhimiers. Currently she is quite mobile, afraid if she cannot see me and prone to following me everywhere, so I am looking for the least expensive way to get us house functionality (I do lots of laundry using electric w/d). Without having to spend time outside in nasty conditions fiddling with stuff and managing her.
I also have 3 ton a/c and am looking at that soft start device. I have 2 sump pumps to manage rain water coming into basement area.
Gasoline:
Peak Watts: 11,600
Running Watts: 9,300
Propane:
Peak Watts: 10,400
Running Watts: 8,300
Natural Gas:
Peak Watts: 8,650
Running Watts: 6,900
This unit is only about $1300.
I do have a trusted guy that is extremely knowledgeable about all manner of things... he is a commercial hvac guy right now but had his own business for a long time and also used to be a general contractor and puts most plumbers I have hired and electricians to shame. Dude is awesome. I am trying to do the leg work here and not impose too much on our friendship... lol.
Many thanks for the education.
I live in a rural area with power outages often, especially during winter. The boxes my utility company uses come prefitted with interlock kits so that adding a power inlet is very simple since most people in my area have generators
For me the transfer switch is too limiting. No amount of thinking ahead of what you will need when you install the sub panel can tell you what your needs are five years later. Also, every power outage is different. If it is four+ days long, I want complete control over every breaker. With interlock, while I'm at the panel switching the panel over to my generator, I switch off all breakers except what I need in the first hour. Then as my needs change throughout the power outage, I can switch breakers off and others on. Examples are washer and dryers, fridge and pump. None of these need to have their breakers on all the time. Interlock gives me complete flexibility now and five years from now, short outage and long outage. And it provides me the opportunity each time to turn everything off that isn't currently needed, thereby keeping all unnecessary load off my generator.
I've already decided to go with the interlock for these reason alone, flexibility (and also not having to put in a subpanel and move circuits over to it.)
Yea Yea
Thank you so much for your very, very helpful videos!! I may not be able to do all this stuff with my arthritic hands anymore at age 69, but it gives me an idea what I'm getting into that I might have to pay for. Keep up the good work!!!!
You are very welcome! I am glad you doing it helpful. Thank you very much for the feedback Gerald!
For me, the decision to go with a transfer switch came down to the fact that I have solar installed on my house. I didn't want the solar panels accidentally backfeeding the generator.
I wish they would make a cheaper way to have the best of both worlds, already own solar, own generator with interlock kit. But loose the free solar with the rapid shut down. I can fix this issue threw enphase but not for less than 10k, and likely it will cost 20k, with number of batteries required, smart transfer switch, additional wiring. If anybody knows are reliable way sub $2000.00 for materials i would love to know. I have microinverters and existing portable generator with outlet and interlock for it.
Excellent explanation of the difference and who should install the transfer switch or the interlock. It clears up my confusion. Now I know what to buy. Great video!
I like your content.
I find it fascinating that anytime the subject of a backup home generator comes up it immediately defaults to dire warnings that you must use either a transfer switch or an interlock system. If you don't you are breaking all kind of laws and could kill your neighbors or linesmen.
Let's get real for a sec. The interlock system wasn't even invented until around 2005. Transfer switches a few years before. For those of us who live in places like Florida where power outages are a way of life we have been using generator backups long before these two items were even invented.
The whole issue centers around one simple thing. Shutting off your main breaker to the power company. Once it's off it will not come back on until you MANUALLY switch it back on. That's the whole thing in a nutshell. If you are going to use a backup generator for an emergency power outage shut off your main breaker first.
So all the Internet hysteria and dire warnings about killing people, doing illegal things, and breaking the law is just that, Internet induced hysteria.
If you are not capable of understanding that simple instruction then perhaps you should rethink a lot of other things in your life first before worrying about a power outage.
Btw, I ran a 2400 sq foot home for two weeks at full power during a power outage using a suicide cord that I made and plugging it into the dryer outlet. No one died and no one got arrested for breaking the law. It's called an emergency power outage. During emergencies you do what you have to do to get by.
As I said I like your content keep it up. Thank you.
The hysteria there for the same reason we have so many warning stickers. A shockingly large percentage of people haven't a f*cking clue on working safely on their own.
@@armyfazer1410 Then they should get what they deserve.
To add to this great video and discussion. An outage is not the time to be figuring this out. Need to prove what will and wont run, how much fuel will you use and how much do you store? I am a retired electrician and finally got my stuff almost all squared away and tested recently here in New England. In my opinion we should shut the main once or twice a year and prove everything works. Might need to swap some breakers and balance the load. Do you have access to an amprobe? Run for 12-24 hours and know your fuel consumption, and learn what you can live without. I can survive for a while on a 2000 watt inverter generator. It can run on 3 gallons a day.
I bought an interlock kit for $69.95 form my main breaker box. What a rip! I made one in 2 hours for my apartment box.
People are misled by how many watts they need for power in an emergency. MOST power outages are emergencies.
You do not need to run an electric water heater and electric clothes dryer at the same time, ever. You do not need to run your refrigerator all day long. Over Christmas weekend I had no power for 3 days. The fridge got to 44F and the freezer to 22F. Of course it was 48 inside the house. You can plug the fridge in when needed if you open it a lot. you can run most homes on 5000w or less generator.
@@alexd5188 : I got a portable gen that runs on gasoline nat gas and propane. I had a plumber hook up a nat gas line to the back and an electrician hook to the breaker box. I did the minor electric. It cost $2200 total and I have not yet needed to use it. Once the power went out and I waited 10 minutes and decided to walk around to turn it on and the power came back. Yes, having one and not needing it is better than needing it and not having it. Good luck to you in the coming days.
I've got an all gas home and was convinced on a 10 circuit transfer switch, but now I want an interlock for the flexibility. Gas water heater has a 120v AC/DC brick, stove needs 120V for ignitors, gas furnace blower, gas dryer, washer, refrigerator, PC+TV+internet. Then I might want to power a specific room, which a transfer switch won't allow. There's still a lot of work for an interlock: moving your breakers to best balance the load from what you expect to have running. Starting with putting gas furnace on L1 and the fridge on L2. Then on my leg with the least load have my either/or appliances where I can only use 1 at a time (gas dryer or washing machine or microwave).
Suggestion - for a temporary situation or a permanent solution, get a Generlink meter base adaptor. Would recommend the 40 amp unit. I did not purchase the surge protection nor the wireless link as I did not need them. I did get the 20' cord with the 50 amp, RV type plug. It comes with a cord of your choice.
Safe, very easy to use, super easy (5 min.) for the electric company to install.
I have no ties to the company. I bought one and it's a great solution. Using it with my Generac standby genset. Simply plug in the cord when needed, unplug when done.
Before contacting Generlink, I first emailed the datasheet info and request directly to our utilities director at the city. The city provides electric to our area.
A week later I had his letter of approval! He did say that I had to contact his office to have it installed as the customer service reps don't know about the device.
I know what you mean. We started out with a 10-circuit manual transfer switch for the circuits we needed. I then installed a 6-circuit manual transfer switch to run the remaining circuits. (We have two 30-amp outlets on our generator) So now, our entire house is back up and we don't have to turn off any circuits to run things.
There are several cons regarding the transfer switch: 1) It supports a limited number of circuits. 2) Time-consuming installation. 3) The mix of 15 Amp and 20 Amp circuits may not be according to your needs. 4) It is very expensive.
I live in an area with usually 3 to 5 power interruptions per year, and have a generator with the transfer switch (sub panel). It works great, except that when it's dark, the lights are not powered in the whole house... so I often walk from a room with generator power (eg. kitchen) to another room (eg. bedroom) and turn on the light, but duh - no power to this room! So I would prefer the interlock kit, so that all the lights work! (esp. with LED bulbs that draw so little).
I have a 12000Watt generator can I use a 50 amp double breaker with my lockout kit?
Yup. Would be great for that!
I’m no electrician, so 240 volts x 50 amps = 12,000 watts. Just be sure your wire to the inlet and fuse boxes can handle the high wattage. I’m sure someone knows the best gauge wire to use to help you out.
@@dhammer6715 # 6 stranded THHN or equivalent wire.
Suggestion - for a temporary situation or a permanent solution, get a Generlink meter base adaptor. Would recommend the 40 amp unit.
Safe, very easy to use, super easy (5 min.) for the electric company to install.
I have no ties to the company. I bought one and it's a great solution. Using it with my Generac standby genset. Simply plug in the cord when needed, unplug when done.
Very expensive compared to interlock and some utilities don’t allow it.
Nice video on explanation of the two. Just a few comments.
1) The circuits, in the main panel, are not moved to the transfer switch. The circuits you want connected to the transfer switch are just rewired. They can be powered by utility or Gen, but never both at the same time.
2) You need watt meters, to monitor both legs of the generator. (Doesn't matter if using a transfer/interlock switch) This way you can keep the load balanced and not over load the generator.
Incorrect. The circuits ARE moved to the transfer switch…
For the one he used in this video, yes, but that's not the case for all brand transfer switches. We have a 10 and 6 circuit manual Reliance Controls transfer switch. The circuits are not moved from the main panel to the transfer switch. They are just rewired, through the transfer switch.
@@Pk3_Garage that's still effectively moving them to the transfer switch as that's where they're terminated, even if their wires still route through the main panel.
Great explanation. Gave me more information than I received from talking to several electricians!
Transfer switch is more ideal. 1) Interlocks can’t be used everywhere legally, transfer switches can. 2) When the power is out people shouldn’t try to keep their home running exactly like before. It’s wasteful with fuel (which could be in short supply) and most people only use 50% of a generator capacity at any given time. A transfer switch makes people focus on what they really need and have it be sized to the generator they have.
Very good comment. Are interlock systems legal in Texas ? Where is a good place to look for the code about it? Thanks
@@johncontos264 I think it depends on your local rules and even the utility that gives you electric service. My city and utility forbids interlocks because it can be defeated by removing the cover panel.
I’ll take the interlock and common sense, thank you.
You sound like a Democrat to me.
I’m almost ready to set up a generator inlet combined with a 48v battery & EG4 inverter(s) to a combiner box and run that back to a 125a breaker on an interlock in the main panel.
Trying to capitalize on battery for main backup power and then use the generator to supplement grid power and also charge batteries with the EG4 chargeverter.
Main idea is to use the generator to conserve gas / propane by only running the generator as needed until the batteries are charged.
Thank you for this video. Lots more to think about.
But how much would an electrician charge me (ball park) to install the interlock kit?
I just had a quote yesterday, $1,500 per panel for a kit with surge protectors on both of my panels and some breakers and wiring. Crazy.
@@zrile9986 oh ok. See, just not worth it for me to buy the kit and then pay $1500 for install. I rent. If I could paid somewhere around $500 and could take it with me when I leave, that would make sense.
@@tacticalbartender3057 it would depend on the case.
The interlock itself is less than $100 usually around $50, the generator socket is around $20 to $75 depending on the style used. Most electricians charge $100-300/hour so, it isn’t that expensive for the interlock itself. What can get pricy is the circuit run to the location of the generator if not readily accessible.
Thank you. I finally understand the difference between the two, and determine what I need.
Interlock seems way safer.
Great video sir! For those that opt for the interlock option, the interlock also protects the homeowner from accidental shock at the exposed generator inlet box prongs whenever utility power is present.
When circuits and their breakers are moved to a transfer switch what happens to now "empty" slots in the main panel? Very good video!!
@@jmljml5065 incorrect.
The circuits are moved to the transfer switch. The breakers can be moved to the transfer switch, which would leave spaces in the panel that require coverplate sin the panel cover. Or new breakers can be used in the transfer switch, leaving unused breakers in the panel.
Very helpful. I have a 4500w generator and will be using the transfer switch option. Of course, if you can get your hands on a whole house generator, I'd go with the interlock kit.
Great videos, very helpful information. My first house in Maryland I had an electrician install a transfer switch for my generator.
At the house I bought Spring 2024 built in 2016 in South Lafayette Louisiana, recently had an electrician install a Briggs and Stratton 26KW Natural Gas Whole House Generator. The plumber recently ran the Natural Gas line to the Generator and Natural Gas Meter. Just yesterday the plumber with the Natural Gas company CenterPoint upgraded the Regulator on the Natural Gas Meter. Monday the Electrician comes out to test the generator and put it in standby mode and weekly exercise mode.
Thank you for the explanations. I am actively trying to learn about these technologies. I do want to have some backup power available. I am in the exploratory phase.
For my application I am going transfer switch. Once I map out my panel I know the wattage needed and what I want to keep on.
Then I can use generator or solar battery system.
Thank you for explaining each system.
Getting ready to install a backup generator system. I will have a licensed electrician do the job but now I know what to ask and have some idea what I am referring to. Thank you very much for your input.
Great video. I’m hoping you can add more info for those trying to connect an EV for home back up. Some EV’s, like the Lightning, cannot connect directly because of the bonded neutral / ground in the main panel. It causes the truck to sense a fault. Users have installed a specific transfer switch (or unsafely removed the ground wire to the truck) to get around this. Videos to date have not been very good on how it’s done correctly. Thanks
+1 on this. I don't have a Lightning, but rather an Ioniq 5 with V2L at 1.9kW output (quite small in comparison to the numbers in this video). I would like to know if it's possible for me to do this for only the most critical circuits (fridge, gas heating, and lights) in my home which in total rarely goes over 1kW/h according to my utility reports
thanks it gave me a better understanding, since I want to get my generator hooked up to my panel
I went with a Pulsar 6500 dual fuel and a 6 circuit transfer switch. Perfect fit for our size home. The install was straight forward.
Great presentation. Was leaning to transfer switch, now I am convinced, transfer switch.
Any suggestions for a good electrician in SW Florida. I got quoted $4,700, and $3,700 for those 2 options today.
LOL... yep I am in Ft Myers. They are here, but as always, expect to pay!
great summary.
Would love a similar video for a battery backup system.
I have to say that you really helped me figure out which one to buy. Thank you very much.
Answered a question I’ve wondered for several yrs. 👍🏼
I think both solutions work just fine. Most people when they want back up power purchase a big generator to supply "emergency" alternate power. Then they decide how to hook it up. People should determine what emergency circuits they "require" in an emergency and then purchase a generator that will supply those needs. A small generator (down to about 2KW) could supply power, meet your needs, be quieter and will run a long time on minimum fuel. If switching a few circuits, the transfer switch is much cheaper than an interlock kit. A four circuit switch and a small generator could meet your needs for less than 6 or 7 hundred dollars. If switching the whole house to power everything (including Air Conditioning etc.) then an interlock is probably better and more expensive. Before doing either, check your HOAs and local ordinances on installing anything. Many prohibit the installation of generators period. Just my thoughts good video.
I don't see how installing an interlock will be more expensive??? Have you ever installed one?? Do you know the cost and steps to install a transfer switch. I have done that before and your comments reflect ignorance in the topic.
I chose the Reliance Controls 10 circuit transfer switch because it has built in watt meters to help balance the load on the generator.
Yup that is a good transfer switch! Thanks for the feedback.
I did too !
I'm checking out my house's circuitry with an eye towards doing an interlock. My wife asked an interesting question. Since the main breaker is off, how can you tell when the power comes back on?
Our power utility has an app that sends us notifications, though you have to go into it to turn them on for each outage... and then you’d have to look at your device ever so often to see the notification (and/or enable notification sounds-I usually always keep mine off.)
@@GMC-qo9xi I should have thought of that. My utility will send email notifications. Thanks for jogging my brain into working. 😀
@@thelastremainingmoderate1997 we’ve just gotten through a major outage recently... 7days, no power. The app generated dozens of notifications, which was a tad annoying, as they would say it applied to our outage, but never did until the final one or two.
However our generator was only powering extension cords into the house, so our main breaker remained on... But I am now waiting for an upgraded generator and need to buy an interlock and the other related items to hook it up to our main panel... so your question will be pertinent for myself shortly.
I have looked at both options and I tend to favor the interlock kit. I will add there is one additional option. You can have installed a generator connector that connects to the main power coming in. When you connect your generator and turn on the power it senses the power and disco's it from the main lines.
go for interlocm kit. The last option you mentioned is a stupid too risky decision that please avoid. No offense intended.
Thank you so much for all of your well develop videos. Some years ago, I saw your oldest generator related video. Due to my budget and other related factors, I was able to create a my own locking mechanism. The one I needed was out of stock but principally was about $120 dollars delivered. Personally, I re arranged my circuit box to properly accommodate the order for my 240v. panel. This is important because it created a method for me to select 6 low power circuits along with 2 higher power consumption circuits. My main restriction to give power to the house was my generator. Lucky, I got one that produces about 8k of constant power and up to 13500k for peak events. In my view, the best option is the manual locking option. This is due to the fact that are less things that could go wrong and it is cheaper and a much straight forward option that just about any DIY person can actually handle.
This is good stuff. I'm just at the start of this process but if I went down the wrong path it would be difficult to go back I think.
Thank you for this video. I am currently building my own place and this information helped me decide on the power failure route I am going to take.
Seriously appreciate the time you took to make this video!
Awesome! Glad this was helpful for you. Good luck on the build!
I have both an Automated Transfer Switch for my 22kw Natural Gas Generac Whole-House and an 50A Interlock for my backup Gas, Propane and NG generators. The Generac has failed in the past so I bought a Harbor Freight Predator 13kw Tri-Fuel that hooks to my BBQ ng line in my screened pool area and also a separate 3/4" valve on the side of the house.
HF predator Tri fuel ...??? Since when do they make tri fuel let alone dual fuel ??
@@ACommenterOnRUclips Dude, do either a Google or a You Tube search on Harbor Freight Trifuel Generator (the one I bought) for the love of Pete, sheesh. Get a clue.
I don't see an A/C breaker/switch! I live in FL and A/C is a must. Good video
AC can be a challenge. For a 4-ton unit, you probably are going to need a 12kw unit at a minimum plus a soft start kit on the AC. 15kW would be better. For many, portable or window units are the better emergency choice as you can often power them off of 15A receptacles. As long as you can cool a bedroom or two you can get by.
Adam, thanks much for video's have learned a ton. So, I bought a 13,000 watt generator & my panel doesn't have room for another double breaker to facilitate an interlock. I concluded MTS is only way for me. My generator has two 50 amp receptacles but as I understand it I can only have one power inlet box. I'm hoping to power 4 220V circuits along with five lights & plugs circuits. I'm good with my wattage calculations but the total amperage for these circuits on the panel is 210. So, my question is will the electrical inspector be concerned about that?
Thank you for the videos. They’re very informative.
My question is how do I know what size generator I’ll need to run the whole house. How do I add up all the wattage my house has in it
Thank you
Yes, sort of. You also need to factor in starting loads for some larger items like AC, heat pumps, etc. 12kW is probably the starting point and if you have a 6,000 square foot house with a 300A service, you may need something north of 20kW.
Gave all the information I needed in the most simplistic way, thanks.
Love the videos… I have solar panels installed on the house and was wondering if I can install all of this with my generator even though I have solar panels.
I am not an expert when it comes to solar as I know the hookups to the homes can be different. Grid tied, off grid, hybrid, etc. So depending on which one you have, it will require a disconnect. The question is where exactly and that depends on your setup and wiring. So the answer is yes you can, but it’s a little more tricky.
Thanks for the clarity of this. I had no idea what to do
Are there any differences in how the neutral and ground wires are dealt with between the two, transfer switches vs interlock kits? Do you bond neutral and ground at a transfer switch?
No, you never Bond the neutral and ground at the transfer switch. Okay you usually would not. If you switch the neutral and have a ground rod at the transfer switch... Then you could bond the ground in the neutral there and your generator would need a floating ground. But this really would make sense to do.
In a separately derived system, they will be bonded at the generator and the neutral will also be switched in the transfer switch. The generator must be grounded to a ground rod.
In a non separately derived system, they are bonded at the service panel and the neutral is not switched only the hot wires. In this case the generator must have a floating ground.
The bottom line is the ground and neutral are always only bonded together at the point where the ground rod is located. Otherwise you have the ground wire potentially carrying current of the neutral wire all the time. Which means it would energize the chassis of a lot of equipment all the time.... And in some cases that would shock people just to touch things. Even though it's typically small the voltage drop across the neutral wire does cause it to have a voltage that's different than the ground when it's a distance away from where it's grounded.
@@duskyman1 Thank you, that helps.