How to solder slot car lead wires
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- Опубликовано: 9 июн 2021
- How to solder your slot car lead wires so they don't break and last a long time.
The chassis you can see in the video is my own "Cleaver" 1/32 Scale G12 saloon chassis. It is designed to race in the UK to BSCRA rules. I will hopefully be competing with this chassis at the National Championships in August 2021. I only produced a very limited number of these chassis which were all pre-sold. I might make a few more later in the year.
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I love the tip to twist the wire to keep them flat to the chassis. Another great video James. Many thanks.
Glad to help
I like watching your videos and provide help for all slot car racers. I see that you are soldering lead wires on a 1/32 scale G12 saloon chassis.
Yes. That is correct. It is a great class here in the UK.
Thank you very much for taking the time to record this helpful how-to.
Thank you for your very positive comment 👍🏻
Wow
Neat work with the solder.
Great vid! Thank you!
Thank you 🙏
Very helpful. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
That's funny. I've always started at the guide and worked backwards to the motor.
But not any longer!
Yes, I used to do it the opposite way too but I found it difficult to keep the wires flat when the guide turned. It is much easier to keep nice flat loops when you start at the motor end.
Do you recommend using a Dremel and Scotch-Brite on an axle before you install it?
Rear axle, of course
If you prep your lead wire plates before you put them in the guide. Makes soldering much easier. Imo.
Thank you for really instructive videos. What gauge AWG wire do you recommend for lead wires?
The wire gauge can depend on what type of motors you are using due to the current needed. If you use FK type motors then 24AWG will be fine. I would suggest 22AWG or possibly 20AWG for really high current motors. It is a bit of a trade off between current, flexibility and weight.
Do you have a favorite brand and gauge wire?
You'd find this job a LOT easier with a gas radiant (aka Ceramic Honeycomb Soldering Block) and a couple of pieces of bent piano wire to act as spring clips.
Thanks for the suggestion. I am not quite sure how a different soldering block would help? I am also not sure what you mean by using bent pieces of piano wire as spring clips? If you mean that the piano wire will help hold the lead wires in position when soldering, then that might help, but you also need to maintain the twist in the wire to keep it flat when the guide turns.
@@CleaveTech yes, just to hold the wire in place leaving you an easier task of manipulating the cable.
So you solder direct to the braids? not to a shim of brass inserted above the braid allowing easy braid changes.
You should be able to see that I use brass plates in the guide to solder the lead wires to. They stay in the guide when you remove the braids. Take a look in this video…
ruclips.net/video/CpSj6o3kNu4/видео.html
Can I ask you which type of solder wire you use? Thanks.
I just use 60/40 electricians solder. If you look around you will still find solder with a lead content.
@@CleaveTech Cheers.
@@peezebeuponyou3774 60/40 solder is approximately 60% Tin and 40% Lead. A lot of solders these days use lead substitutes which are not as good and make it harder to solder and leave a dull looking solder joint.
@@CleaveTech OK- thank you.
How hot is your iron in Centigrade?
About 300 Centigrade for lead wires is enough.
@@CleaveTech Thanks
Why not run your plates on some sandpaper before inserting into the guide. Faster, easier and more effective than scratching them with a knife.
Yes you can do that if you were going to solder the lead wires immediately onto the guide clips. I tend to prepare a few guides at a time then store them for use when needed.
He's soldering to clips.not brade