Thanks Joe this was a big help. I'm sad to see you have passed away, especially so young. Obviously you were a super cool person in life and the world needs more super cool people in it, not less. Peace.
I really appreciate your video. Just replaced my struts today and noticed my bushings are shot beyond recognition. I have a 2001 civic. This vid was very informative. Thank you.
Thanks for this video! I changed the struts and then realized the bushings on the control arms were tore up, cracked and they needed to be changed .Your video made my day and saved me from bewilderment and a lot ot head scratching. Thank you sir!
You put ball join in First, remove one bolt that holding the strut then losen the other so you can bent it in/out when pushing the bushings in. Just did my 2004 Civic today, so much easier than having the Bushings in first. I built my own 20Ton press that I can extend the height buy screw in a long 1" bolt, eliminate the interference of all commercial press.
Dude! You are a legend! Your comments were entertaining, yet informative. My civic type R has been making these noises/symptoms when doing deliveries for Domino's Pizza. Guess I need to get on fixing it.... Many Thanks again.. and "Fit Like!!" from Aberdeen, Scotland, UK
Could be wrong, and not sure if it's been mentioned yet - but that 'grease' you put on the new bushings is probably an anti-sieze paste - typically, used on bearings - it keeps parts from rusting together. The urethane bushings you've got didn't really need that stuff - seeing as how the original bushings had a metal outer race, which came in contact with the control arm itself. Keeps things in place. Without rust. Without glue.
Got my car back a couple hours ago and wow what a difference in terms of tighter steering response. Feels really great. No squeaks either. Though the ride is a little harsher it doesn't vibrate as much as my old OEM rubber bushings. Hopefully I can get 4-5 years out of these bushings.
Awesome! I need this done to get a safety certificate to sell my car. I'm not going to do the work myself but watched the whole thing anyway cause it was so entertaining. Thanks a lot for a really informative fun how to video.
Great video, i just bought a used lower control arm from Graves, i wish i would have known before hand that they sell aftermarket upgrades, this video is great. Good job.
I just did this repair and when you reinstall the control arm, go "back to front": put the rear bushing in first (and make sure the bolt engages the threads), put the ball joint in next and secure it with the castle nut (because you can still easily swing the control arm down) and then jack up the control arm and use a pry bar to force the front bushing into position. With the rear bushing bolted to the frame and ball joint connected to the control arm, it will keep the rotor from tilting outward and your CV axle from coming apart when you jack up the control arm (IRL AMHIK LOL) The second side was much easier. HTH everybody!!!!!!
Thanks again for the info. The shop seems to have used all the grease on mine (installed the full kit). Can't wait to test them out tomorrow. Thanks again sir.
ok, so i completed the job! putting the bull joints back on was a B with an itch. Hard to figure out where to place the jack so it didn't walk the strut out. The worst part was one of the verticle bushing bolts was frozen and fused to the inside of the bushing. Put a 3/4 ratchet and pipe on it and broke the welded nut loose on top. Had to cut if off with the grinder (really close to the trans) and then spent 2 hours trying to beat the bolt out. pressing out the bushings was not easy either.
Thank you so much for you video. I just finished putting on and they look and feel great. What a difference these bushings make. I never could have done it with out watching your video.....thanks again
Hey man, just wanted to make note of something I saw in the video. That grease is a silicone paste, and really should cover any surface of the polyurethane bushing that comes in contact with metal to prevent squeaking, which poly bushings are notorious for. From my personal experience, the little packets are nowhere near enough; get a big tube of dielectric grease and coat the -entire- bushing prior to installation. :-)
Thank you for the video! My 2002 civic Ex has same bushing issue & I am going to replace the whole LCA next week. One question I still have is whether I have to do wheel alignment or not...
Usually the ball joint is the reason to replace the whole thing. Honestly you can get a set of lower arms on rockauto or eBay fairly cheep. The bushings and ballpoint are the only wear points on those arms.
Dude your kinda of funny and crazy, which is cool... your video is very helpful too me ( and i'm sure to thousands of other people)... so thank you very much ... you helped me much more than anybody in the government ever did ... LOL!
you are so great sir, awesome work. .. less talk more action. not like the other people in their video tutorial has so much talk than work...more power
@evanbrom1 i used a ball joint fork, driver side was hell, to get em on was hell too, i had to jack up the spindle to bring it up to get on top on the control arm, very difficult with new bushings
entertaining video! very informative and hopefully i can do this to my dc2r. the rear ones makes noise when i go over speed bumps and when i turn smooth corners it clicks out as it unloads and clicks in as it reloads
WARNING!!!!!!! Anyone doing this, or about to do this, READ ALL OF THIS. So, I undertook the task of removing my LCA, because during Tire Kingdoms courtesy check, they completely broke one of the worn out bushings. So ya it quickly became time to replace the bushing or the entire LCA. Anyways, the vertical bushing(that big monster in the front) on my 02 civic the bolt is seized to the metal on the inside of the bushing. I could not bust the bolt lose, so I used a fence post as a cheater bar(it did the job). Well the bolt spins like it should, and after spinning the bolt and center bushing that is frozen to the bolt for a while. Progress was made as the bolts thread was no longer visible at the top of the subframes welded on bolt. Unfortunately, seeing how the bolt could go no further down, it started to spread the LCA mount on the subframe!!!!! Long story short, cut that POS bolt/bushing out if you have this issue. I have no idea if this has caused permanent damage to the LCA's mounting point on the subframe. If so, my under $100 replacement just got insanely expensive.
Thanks for this video! I really need to do this to my car. My bolt that holds the control arm to the knuckle fell off while I was driving from a road trip a couple weeks ago. Good thing the Civic's LCA is similar to the Acura RSX.
this is a good video. Usually i always go to O'Reilly parts store because they seem to be the cheapest. I checked their site and O'Reilly wants $71.99 for the kit. Then I checked AutoZone who is usually more expensive and they want $52.99 for the same Energy Suspension/Control arm kit. Guess it pays to shop around. Now, I wonder if I play to two stores off against each other and see if O'Reilly will meet and beat the price lol
Hey, thanks fot he great video, I've done this already thanks to it, I've seen than many people has a question about releasing the arm from the ball joint, what did since I didn´t have the correct tool for that, I just loosened the bolt without taking it out and gently hitted it with a hammer eventually it will be released. Now, people could have problems to take them out without a press, so you can also use a hammer with something to push it through, or you can make a press for yourself, which is what I did, you just put on the youtube search bar: Homemade press and you will the video of a guy using this square with a 20 ton jack, and it will make your job easier. Everything else is really easy. Hope this helps somebody. Thank You!
I to put the ball joint in first, then compress the strut and it will angle the bushings perfectly so you can pound them into place with a dead blow hammer and a pry bar.
My god mine was a pain! Had all your tools but everything that could go wrong went wrong. The bushing kept slipping out of my press but a good way to do it is to use a nut and bolt with two metal plates above and below and start threading. Eventually the lip will go in and then you can use a mallet or the press.
If you remove 1 bolt that hold the strut & the knuckle then loose the other, you don't have to compress nothing, no brutal force require, just gently tap the bushing in. At one point, the strut and the nuckle kinda stuck on me, turn out there's a cut/dent. I filed it down then they slide in & out freely, put some grease will help too. I aren't got no strength to wasted.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video! Since I dont have a press etc, watching this video made me realize that I will pay the local shop to do this for me LOL. Did I see some Captain Richards Best in the background there? That's a killer product! LIKED!
I realized you didn't film how to separate the ball joint and the lower control arm. That is my only problem. I removed the other three bolts as well as the castle bolt under the control arm and ball joint although my LCA wont separate from the ball joint...Had to put my car back together for work tomorrow and will try and tackle it again this Saturday. My bushing are very bad and need to be replaced ASAP. Please help.
The most difficult part for me was putting the ball joint into the control arm. Tell me, when you used a jack and a 2 X 4 piece of wood, wasn't your wheel high enough so that you could connect the ball joint into the control arm?
I need to do this on my 01 civic too. My car sort of swerves when I accelerate. Pulls to one side. It's not an alignment issue because it does not pull to side when I let go of the steering wheel. The bushings are definitely broken on my 01. Just like the ones on your car.
I got the same trouble in my car sort of sweves when I accelerate. this last week I changed complete strut shock absorber in both sides and when I went to my house my car began to move to the left side when I accelerate but if I´m not acelerating my car goes straigh. I tried to change the control arm but I saw which the bushings weren´t broken. Please let me know if you have already changed them and if that was the solution
Thank you for a great video!! I live on a 1/2 mile gravel road and the wife blows threw the pot holes like she is in a rally race. At 150,000 we started to here a "bonk bonk" on bumps. At 200,000 odd highway handeling and unstable in high speed turns. Now at 215,000 I can put my hand on the top of the rf tire and move it neary a full inch forward and back and the car will do a lane change if I jab the throttle hard at 60mph! should buy a hydrolic press or do you think a log splitter will work?
@reydehonduras I have done this many times. It is easier to remove the two bolts from the strut and put the ball joint in. THEN reattach the strut to the spindle one bolt at a time. Very nice video by the way. A few times the subject was not in the shot but overall a nice job for sure. Next time, make the wife operate the camera...You are fixing her car...where the heck is she going!
Thanks a lot for this video. My car has the same problem right now, although not as severe as that car in the video. The guy at the shop did an estimate of $750 to get the bushings replaced. So I'm going to try this myself. I don't have that hydraulic press that you have though... Do you have any suggestions for a small press that can get the job done, or should I just go to the shop to get it done?
How did you get the ball joint removed? What kind of tool, because I tried everything, and ended up buying a special seperator. Also did you do the rear control arms? I'm fixing to do front and back.
When you buy the item you listed does that include all four bushings you showed? 2 for each control arm? That's a pretty sweet deal if they work as good as everyone says.
How long does the urethane bushing last? Does it ride rougher??? Urethane motor mounts suck some major a hole. They transfer all the vibration right through the mount. Would love to hear from somebody thats using the urethane mounts.
my daughters car needs her front upper ball joint replaced...what part do i need to buy to replace it?All the parts store will sell me is the control arm and it does not include a ballpoint.I usually buy the parts for my mechanic friend to install....
Okay thanks for the reply, I really appreciate it. One more thing would you recommend buying a new control arm? Or a set of bushings. Also should I replace both or just one?
@mmortiz I have no clue about all that, all i know is the energy ones last alot longer the oem, i liked the red ones better anyway lol. as for longivity i would say keep em greased and they would proly both last awhile
Thanks for the quick reply. I was just curious after getting some second thoughts based on what I read online. Have you had any squeaks because of the nature of the polyurethane material?
Judging from the way you greased those bushings, you're probably getting squeaking when going over bumps. You're suppose to coat the inside where poly meets metal with grease.
Hi Joe, Thanks for the video. I was quoted that i need to replace both control arms. When i go over bumps, it's horrid. Would i be able to just use the bushing kit that you recommend? Thanks
The only reason you would have to replace the whole control arm is if the ball joints where bad. The bushings are replaceable. But sometimes it's easier just to buy new arms on eBay or rockauto and put them on yourself. Save big money that way
How do I know if I need to replace my entire lower control arm or just the bushings? I went to a repair shop today and they tried charging me $420 to replace the lower control arm. My car makes loud clunks over dips and right turns. Is it just the bushings or the lower control arm?
+Joseph “Airbagjoe” Wilkins I think you mean you never removed the balljoint from the knuckle. A lot of us are wondering how you got the balljoint bolt back through the LCA.
It's like John Goodman doing a documentary. :D Nice vid. I imagine that the 8th gen Civic would be similar to this, seeing that they share the same LCA design.
Hey Joe how have your bushings held up over the years now? I just installed the full Energy Suspension kit on my EM2 and was curious as to what you think.
I've got the control arm with the new bushings into the subframe; how does the ball joint go back into the control arm? I've already bent 2 pry bars trying to lever it between the arm and the chassis.
I know this is months old but for all the others here's your fix. Use a crow bar wedged between the front bushing and the frame nearest the bumper. Push and it will squeeze the front bushing enough that the rear bushings will have room to fit in the gap. These new bushings are way stiffer and this will give you the room you need to push the rear bushings into place. Ps make sure you start the front bushing bolt in order to pry against it.
+CRT Mojo for the ball joint you have to remove the front knuckle and use a ball joint press to remove it. Any auto parts store will loan you this tool for a deposit of about 100$ it's a pain and a drill is highly recommended to make torquing easier
I put the Ball Join in First then the rest come in easy, just push and hammer them in, much easier than getting the Bushing in first. Sometime you might wanna remove one bolt of the Strut and losen the other to you can bend it in/out. There's always an easy way to do thing, unfortunately this guy chosse the hard way.
Thanks Joe this was a big help. I'm sad to see you have passed away, especially so young. Obviously you were a super cool person in life and the world needs more super cool people in it, not less. Peace.
I really appreciate your video. Just replaced my struts today and noticed my bushings are shot beyond recognition. I have a 2001 civic. This vid was very informative. Thank you.
Thanks for this video! I changed the struts and then realized the bushings on the control arms were tore up, cracked and they needed to be changed .Your video made my day and saved me from bewilderment and a lot ot head scratching. Thank you sir!
very welcome, glad i could help
You put ball join in First, remove one bolt that holding the strut then losen the other so you can bent it in/out when pushing the bushings in. Just did my 2004 Civic today, so much easier than having the Bushings in first. I built my own 20Ton press that I can extend the height buy screw in a long 1" bolt, eliminate the interference of all commercial press.
Dude! You are a legend! Your comments were entertaining, yet informative. My civic type R has been making these noises/symptoms when doing deliveries for Domino's Pizza. Guess I need to get on fixing it.... Many Thanks again.. and "Fit Like!!" from Aberdeen, Scotland, UK
Could be wrong, and not sure if it's been mentioned yet - but that 'grease' you put on the new bushings is probably an anti-sieze paste - typically, used on bearings - it keeps parts from rusting together. The urethane bushings you've got didn't really need that stuff - seeing as how the original bushings had a metal outer race, which came in contact with the control arm itself.
Keeps things in place. Without rust. Without glue.
Got my car back a couple hours ago and wow what a difference in terms of tighter steering response. Feels really great. No squeaks either. Though the ride is a little harsher it doesn't vibrate as much as my old OEM rubber bushings. Hopefully I can get 4-5 years out of these bushings.
Awesome!
I need this done to get a safety certificate to sell my car.
I'm not going to do the work myself but watched the whole thing anyway cause it was so entertaining.
Thanks a lot for a really informative fun how to video.
Bushings are such a satisfying job. Hard work but huge peace of mind once done.
Great video, i just bought a used lower control arm from Graves, i wish i would have known before hand that they sell aftermarket upgrades, this video is great. Good job.
I just did this repair and when you reinstall the control arm, go "back to front": put the rear bushing in first (and make sure the bolt engages the threads), put the ball joint in next and secure it with the castle nut (because you can still easily swing the control arm down) and then jack up the control arm and use a pry bar to force the front bushing into position. With the rear bushing bolted to the frame and ball joint connected to the control arm, it will keep the rotor from tilting outward and your CV axle from coming apart when you jack up the control arm (IRL AMHIK LOL) The second side was much easier. HTH everybody!!!!!!
Thanks again for the info. The shop seems to have used all the grease on mine (installed the full kit). Can't wait to test them out tomorrow. Thanks again sir.
It is cool that you have a sense of humor, makes it fun to watch.
ok, so i completed the job! putting the bull joints back on was a B with an itch. Hard to figure out where to place the jack so it didn't walk the strut out. The worst part was one of the verticle bushing bolts was frozen and fused to the inside of the bushing. Put a 3/4 ratchet and pipe on it and broke the welded nut loose on top. Had to cut if off with the grinder (really close to the trans) and then spent 2 hours trying to beat the bolt out. pressing out the bushings was not easy either.
Thank you so much for you video. I just finished putting on and they look and feel great. What a difference these bushings make. I never could have done it with out watching your video.....thanks again
Hey man, just wanted to make note of something I saw in the video. That grease is a silicone paste, and really should cover any surface of the polyurethane bushing that comes in contact with metal to prevent squeaking, which poly bushings are notorious for. From my personal experience, the little packets are nowhere near enough; get a big tube of dielectric grease and coat the -entire- bushing prior to installation. :-)
@Dakota Stiver they still holding up very well. Very still bushings. I can understand them transferring noise or vibration
Just saw that you passed away, thanks for the video, RIP. Although i'm lost as to what to do with the ball joint, i'll figure it out.
He passed away? ?
Dat1Nigga ZimDoe
Thank you for the video! My 2002 civic Ex has same bushing issue & I am going to replace the whole LCA next week. One question I still have is whether I have to do wheel alignment or not...
your video just made it to where me and my buddy are gonna do are self, thanks dude
Usually the ball joint is the reason to replace the whole thing. Honestly you can get a set of lower arms on rockauto or eBay fairly cheep. The bushings and ballpoint are the only wear points on those arms.
Dude your kinda of funny and crazy, which is cool... your video is very helpful too me ( and i'm sure to thousands of other people)... so thank you very much ... you helped me much more than anybody in the government ever did ... LOL!
you are so great sir, awesome work. .. less talk more action. not like the other people in their video tutorial has so much talk than work...more power
@evanbrom1 i used a ball joint fork, driver side was hell, to get em on was hell too, i had to jack up the spindle to bring it up to get on top on the control arm, very difficult with new bushings
amazing. just what i was looking for. thank you very much for this tutorial. Greetings from Slovakia.
entertaining video! very informative and hopefully i can do this to my dc2r. the rear ones makes noise when i go over speed bumps and when i turn smooth corners it clicks out as it unloads and clicks in as it reloads
WARNING!!!!!!! Anyone doing this, or about to do this, READ ALL OF THIS. So, I undertook the task of removing my LCA, because during Tire Kingdoms courtesy check, they completely broke one of the worn out bushings. So ya it quickly became time to replace the bushing or the entire LCA. Anyways, the vertical bushing(that big monster in the front) on my 02 civic the bolt is seized to the metal on the inside of the bushing. I could not bust the bolt lose, so I used a fence post as a cheater bar(it did the job). Well the bolt spins like it should, and after spinning the bolt and center bushing that is frozen to the bolt for a while. Progress was made as the bolts thread was no longer visible at the top of the subframes welded on bolt. Unfortunately, seeing how the bolt could go no further down, it started to spread the LCA mount on the subframe!!!!! Long story short, cut that POS bolt/bushing out if you have this issue. I have no idea if this has caused permanent damage to the LCA's mounting point on the subframe. If so, my under $100 replacement just got insanely expensive.
I don't even drive a civic, loved the video, very entertaining.
Thanks for this video! I really need to do this to my car. My bolt that holds the control arm to the knuckle fell off while I was driving from a road trip a couple weeks ago. Good thing the Civic's LCA is similar to the Acura RSX.
this is a good video. Usually i always go to O'Reilly parts store because they seem to be the cheapest. I checked their site and O'Reilly wants $71.99 for the kit. Then I checked AutoZone who is usually more expensive and they want $52.99 for the same Energy Suspension/Control arm kit. Guess it pays to shop around. Now, I wonder if I play to two stores off against each other and see if O'Reilly will meet and beat the price lol
Hey, thanks fot he great video, I've done this already thanks to it, I've seen than many people has a question about releasing the arm from the ball joint, what did since I didn´t have the correct tool for that, I just loosened the bolt without taking it out and gently hitted it with a hammer eventually it will be released. Now, people could have problems to take them out without a press, so you can also use a hammer with something to push it through, or you can make a press for yourself, which is what I did, you just put on the youtube search bar: Homemade press and you will the video of a guy using this square with a 20 ton jack, and it will make your job easier. Everything else is really easy. Hope this helps somebody. Thank You!
I to put the ball joint in first, then compress the strut and it will angle the bushings perfectly so you can pound them into place with a dead blow hammer and a pry bar.
My god mine was a pain! Had all your tools but everything that could go wrong went wrong. The bushing kept slipping out of my press but a good way to do it is to use a nut and bolt with two metal plates above and below and start threading. Eventually the lip will go in and then you can use a mallet or the press.
If you remove 1 bolt that hold the strut & the knuckle then loose the other, you don't have to compress nothing, no brutal force require, just gently tap the bushing in. At one point, the strut and the nuckle kinda stuck on me, turn out there's a cut/dent. I filed it down then they slide in & out freely, put some grease will help too. I aren't got no strength to wasted.
Just got these done today on my RSX thanks to your entertaining instructions XD
Thanks man!
Now to tackle the rear tomorrow...
Awesome video. Very entertaining. Super helpful. Thanks!
Thanks for taking the time to make this video! Since I dont have a press etc, watching this video made me realize that I will pay the local shop to do this for me LOL. Did I see some Captain Richards Best in the background there? That's a killer product! LIKED!
Energy also makes Sway bar bushings, $15 and it cures the rattle sound on slow speed bumps
THANKS MAN, YOUR SLANG HAD ME ROLLIN TOO . THANK YOU FROM AZ
Good Job. I noticed your Shop Depot Press, looks like the Harbor Frieght Shop Press.
@MileyCyrus192 They are still brand new looking. No cracks or any thing. I do got to change the struts soon. Which I'm gonna make a video of.
wish you said how you managed to get the balljoint in
Yes they did squeak during the winter. But after they warned up it was fine. I didn't grease them enough
nice video man! just what i needed to see...im gonn go get me the red ones next friday on payday
GREAT VIDEO HELP ME OUT A LOT WITH MY 2002 HONDA CIVIC THANK YOU .
Thanks for the video..i have the same problem...wondering where you bought the bushings?
I realized you didn't film how to separate the ball joint and the lower control arm. That is my only problem. I removed the other three bolts as well as the castle bolt under the control arm and ball joint although my LCA wont separate from the ball joint...Had to put my car back together for work tomorrow and will try and tackle it again this Saturday. My bushing are very bad and need to be replaced ASAP. Please help.
The most difficult part for me was putting the ball joint into the control arm.
Tell me, when you used a jack and a 2 X 4 piece of wood, wasn't your wheel high enough so that you could connect the ball joint into the control arm?
9:30 trick also works wonders for large U joints and a log splitter!
Yes they both push in on either side and the metal sleeve pushes in both of them
Thanks for the video, , how many psi of torque do i need to set to adjust the bolts__
11:10 ROFLMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! dude you seroisly made me lought lol!!!
I just finished dissambly my 94 civic front suspension, thanks for your tips!!
I need to do this on my 01 civic too. My car sort of swerves when I accelerate. Pulls to one side. It's not an alignment issue because it does not pull to side when I let go of the steering wheel. The bushings are definitely broken on my 01. Just like the ones on your car.
I got the same trouble in my car sort of sweves when I accelerate.
this last week I changed complete strut shock absorber in both sides and when I went to my house my car began to move to the left side when I accelerate but if I´m not acelerating my car goes straigh. I tried to change the control arm but I saw which the bushings weren´t broken. Please let me know if you have already changed them and if that was the solution
duuude21
Thank you for a great video!! I live on a 1/2 mile gravel road and the wife blows threw the pot holes like she is in a rally race. At 150,000 we started to here a "bonk bonk" on bumps. At 200,000 odd highway handeling and unstable in high speed turns. Now at 215,000 I can put my hand on the top of the rf tire and move it neary a full inch forward and back and the car will do a lane change if I jab the throttle hard at 60mph! should buy a hydrolic press or do you think a log splitter will work?
@reydehonduras I have done this many times. It is easier to remove the two bolts from the strut and put the ball joint in. THEN reattach the strut to the spindle one bolt at a time. Very nice video by the way. A few times the subject was not in the shot but overall a nice job for sure. Next time, make the wife operate the camera...You are fixing her car...where the heck is she going!
I'm sure it would work. It may a little tougher but I'm sure it can work
I like how fun u r working!!! nice job man!
Love this guy. Thank you so much. Learned a lot. Wish I could be there to learn more!
Thanks a lot for this video. My car has the same problem right now, although not as severe as that car in the video. The guy at the shop did an estimate of $750 to get the bushings replaced. So I'm going to try this myself. I don't have that hydraulic press that you have though... Do you have any suggestions for a small press that can get the job done, or should I just go to the shop to get it done?
This video is super helpful, and I plan to tackle this project tomorrow. Do you think I could use a bench vise instead of a press? (I don't have one).
@reydehonduras It was very tuff. But proly the best way would to figure out a way to jack up or some how compress the struts
donde se comprarian los bushings, en que tienda los tienen ? soy de Monterrey Mexico . Gracias
How did you get the ball joint removed? What kind of tool, because I tried everything, and ended up buying a special seperator. Also did you do the rear control arms? I'm fixing to do front and back.
Any advice if I don't have a press? Maybe something I can rig up with my jack?
The flange on the bushing that you used an angle grinder remove is suppose to be easier to remove with a hole saw.
When you buy the item you listed does that include all four bushings you showed? 2 for each control arm? That's a pretty sweet deal if they work as good as everyone says.
How long does the urethane bushing last? Does it ride rougher??? Urethane motor mounts suck some major a hole. They transfer all the vibration right through the mount. Would love to hear from somebody thats using the urethane mounts.
my daughters car needs her front upper ball joint replaced...what part do i need to buy to replace it?All the parts store will sell me is the control arm and it does not include a ballpoint.I usually buy the parts for my mechanic friend to install....
When I received this set of bushings, the smaller one is in 2 halves; do they just press together on either side of the control arm?
Okay thanks for the reply, I really appreciate it. One more thing would you recommend buying a new control arm? Or a set of bushings. Also should I replace both or just one?
@yngleek I wish ours got 40mpg. We running about 25-30mpg. But it has some 17s on it
Dude...informative and hilarious. Like the background music too.Thanks!
Great video.I really enjoyed it.Thank you very much.
Great vid man! Im going to tackle this exact job this weekend! thank for the tips!!
@jjr007 Please understand me how a hole saw would be easier than an angle grinder?
i like your attitude and personality lol had me chuckling the whole time.
@mmortiz I have no clue about all that, all i know is the energy ones last alot longer the oem, i liked the red ones better anyway lol. as for longivity i would say keep em greased and they would proly both last awhile
Thanks for the quick reply. I was just curious after getting some second thoughts based on what I read online. Have you had any squeaks because of the nature of the polyurethane material?
Judging from the way you greased those bushings, you're probably getting squeaking when going over bumps. You're suppose to coat the inside where poly meets metal with grease.
Hi Joe, Thanks for the video. I was quoted that i need to replace both control arms. When i go over bumps, it's horrid. Would i be able to just use the bushing kit that you recommend? Thanks
The only reason you would have to replace the whole control arm is if the ball joints where bad. The bushings are replaceable. But sometimes it's easier just to buy new arms on eBay or rockauto and put them on yourself. Save big money that way
How do I know if I need to replace my entire lower control arm or just the bushings? I went to a repair shop today and they tried charging me $420 to replace the lower control arm. My car makes loud clunks over dips and right turns. Is it just the bushings or the lower control arm?
I'm doing this plus struts to my buddies civic next week.. would the arms be easier to install without the struts in place?
@Joseph Wilkins, does the kit come with bushings for both sides or just one?
Why and where did you get the polyurethane bushings
Excellent video, I am about to do this . Where you got the bushings ?
This has helped me, but I still need a press to get the bushings in myself
Yeah I don't have a compressor. I'll search ebay today for a LCA, any recommendations? Thank you I really appreciate your time.
Hey i just picked up a full set how well have they held up?
do you need a shop press to take out the old bushings?
Entertaining and educational XD
Thanks for the help, man-it'll come in handy on my RSX (same suspension set-up).
Hey great video! All went well until it was time to install the lca's. I'm having trouble getting the ball joint back into the lca. Any tips?
I never removed the balljoint from the lca.
+Joseph “Airbagjoe” Wilkins I think you mean you never removed the balljoint from the knuckle. A lot of us are wondering how you got the balljoint bolt back through the LCA.
It's like John Goodman doing a documentary. :D Nice vid. I imagine that the 8th gen Civic would be similar to this, seeing that they share the same LCA design.
Hey Joe how have your bushings held up over the years now? I just installed the full Energy Suspension kit on my EM2 and was curious as to what you think.
Very welcome. So glad it helped you out :D
@Giovanni Saenz Glad I could help :)
I've got the control arm with the new bushings into the subframe; how does the ball joint go back into the control arm? I've already bent 2 pry bars trying to lever it between the arm and the chassis.
I know this is months old but for all the others here's your fix. Use a crow bar wedged between the front bushing and the frame nearest the bumper. Push and it will squeeze the front bushing enough that the rear bushings will have room to fit in the gap. These new bushings are way stiffer and this will give you the room you need to push the rear bushings into place. Ps make sure you start the front bushing bolt in order to pry against it.
+CRT Mojo for the ball joint you have to remove the front knuckle and use a ball joint press to remove it. Any auto parts store will loan you this tool for a deposit of about 100$ it's a pain and a drill is highly recommended to make torquing easier
They still looked brand new looking under there when I changed the struts
How’s the bushings , are they still doing alright?
Actually i found the control arm(including bushings)...wondering if the passenger and driver side control arms are different
I put the Ball Join in First then the rest come in easy, just push and hammer them in, much easier than getting the Bushing in first. Sometime you might wanna remove one bolt of the Strut and losen the other to you can bend it in/out. There's always an easy way to do thing, unfortunately this guy chosse the hard way.