I am a retired teacher and understand how hard it is for some to get their point across to students - that is the difference - u sir have that elusive quality of getting ur point across and making it easy to apply - thanx❤
Been watching various videos the past day or two on adjusting truss rods, setting action, and intonation. I watched this one entirely through. Great job explaining it. Very thorough and you're a great teacher!
I rarely comment on youtube videos but I just have to say thank you! As someone with adhd this was honestly the straight up easiest video to understand that I've found, great structure and very clear instructions. You got my brain to fully focus for 18 minutes straight while taking notes, that's very impressive haha! Great work!
Fantastic explanation! Way more clear than any other tutorial I’ve seen, plus no pushing of any products like half of these other guitar tutorial channels.
great video, i watched at least 20 videos in the last week. Did my own fret leveling job, then needed a "set up" which i have never done alone and this video brought it together SO nicely.
I have watched multiple videos and didn't quite get it, especially in fear of ruining my instrument, but this video was very informative and well explained. Thank you so much for posting this video!
Great explanation, and I agree on the "small adjustments" statement. I've made some pretty extreme adjustments to my guitars and have had no issues. There was also no noticable difference after an extended period of time.
Amazing video Kev, amazing couple videos actually. Hands down the best break down on adjusting the neck that I’ve seen… and I’ve watched a bunch before I came across yours. Now I don’t have to search anymore, and can fix my guitar and get back to playing. Thanks so much, appreciate it!
One time i adjusted my neck on a squier. Days lafer it started cracking and then just cracked all over. Ive stayed away from it since. Lately i decided im going to learn how to do set ups properly. After all the research ive done for weeks i decided tonight to not bother and just pay someone to do it for me. Luckily i came across this video of you teaching this for idiots and now im back in the game and feel confident enough to do my fender. And now i know why my neck cracked on the squier. Because i was pushing it when it was tight! So thank you, you have an extra like and sub!
literally the best vid on this subject, I was stressing a lot but u helped me remove all fret buzz from Ibanez 2405 custom shop which has had the buzz for years. Thanks.
New Sub. Great video, had a smile on my face with some of your comments. You are very good at explaining things and given me the confidence to adjust my truss rod as I have major buzzing at the first couple of frets.
Great video. Clear information and instructions, plus the "why" in addition to the "how" will help me retain the information. Just the right amount of humor too. Thanks!
Although there are several videos on truss rod adjusment on YT, this video is the one that really helped me, because other videos don't tell you the numbers (use a business card etc.). Your instructions and explanations are very clear and even a dummy can understand them. I have the measurement tool on order, can't wait to setup my guitars the right way! I cannot thank you enough, sir! Subscribed at once.
Fantastic job my friend, now to get my days work in and head home to try to get the buzzing out of my Epiphone, once again thank you my friend, Rock on Mikey rock on.
I enjoyed the heck out of that. I took my brand new Fender American Ultra Stratocaster to the luthier in my city for a setup. He has had it a week. I think I will go get it and set it up myself. Thanks
Thank you for providing this explanation along with the video on string action. I have always had this truss rod fear because of the so called experts that tell me to only leave truss rod adjustment to the luthier. The relief is now at 0.20 feeler gauge and action at 2.0mm. Plays really smoothly 👍☺️
Really great video. I was terrified to touch my guitars. Cost me a fortune with setups over the years. Watched a lot of videos on this topic but I think this is one of the best. Thank a lot!!
Ok first off, thanks for this video, I’ve only been playing a matter of days but I was aware the was something not quite right , after watching this I measured and altered the neck relief from .40 to your recommended .20 with great confidence and it’s playing a lot better. One a lot happier Strat owner😊
I have been looking into a ton of videos on this topic! This however was easy to understand and you just have a pleasant way of explaining things. Thank you!
Hey Kev , your clearly a true teacher as you kept me glued though the whole video. Thanks so much for sharing your experience & wisdom here I certainly enjoyed your style & have learnt some valuable lessons here
I just followed this to adjust my Gretsch, changed from 10-46 to 9-42 to try them out and was getting lots of string rattle which I did not have with the other strings, but to my surprise I had to tighten my neck as my gap with the new strings was about .4. I thought the neck would bow down with thinner strings like a U, but mine seemed to bow up like a n. Anyway, at .2 now and no rattle. Thanks for the video.
I must admit I was suss seeing so many videos on utube on neck relief , but got a pleasant surprise seeing yours on the relief of guitar neck and it was very well presented and very informative , and detailed . I also like the fact you pointed out that there's a good preference number-- the magic number 0.20mm .I think waiting 30min after each turn , may be a good idea given the hoopla i read . I like to see yuo do a video on frets finding and ,fixing bad ones . A Very good video .
Many thanks Kev, this was so helpful. And took the mystery, away about adjusting a truss rod. you explained measurements are so important I have now dug out , a set of "feeler gauges" Best wishes
11:56 that true. I rembemr having an Ibanez many years ago, i bought it while still kinda new at Guitars and havent noticed that the Neck was literally bent like a Banana.. My unlce who play guitars said the nack is catastrophal and fixed the Neck with turning the truss road multiple times in one Go.. After the adjustement the Neck waas traight and my playing was much better.
Subscribed! Wow thank you for the detailed insight, I have some Harley Benton guitars that do not have specifications for them. Being that they are copies of say Tele and 335 their lengths and build are a bit customized so as to not directly copy the originals. This was confusing me. Thank you again!
Hi DrKev, thanks for a reply. I will probably buy a capo for that purpose. Even with my string saddles adjusted full down into the bridgeplate the action is still too high. It seems I may need a neck pocket shim to bring the neck up, and fret dressing. There are no bows or anything, the truss rod is set as best as it could be. Anway I will seek out a good Luthier, and hope the action can be sorted. I've done all I can with my basic skill with my guitars.
@@emilloffler1216 yes, it sounds like a shim is exactly what’s required. You can do the shim yourself. And yes, I have two capos and 99% of all their use is doing set ups. I never almost never use them when playing.
I've seen your other neck relief videos, and even though I previously understood the concept, after watching those I felt like I REALLY understood. Like before I technically understood what I was doing but after your videos I understood WHY I was doing it and not just going through the motions or just simply setting it to a prescribed dimension. I've found on Gibson type guitars I like about 0.010" (0.25mm) relief regardless of my playing style (light or heavy) but I've never really tried less. I'm going to try 0.008" (0.2mm) on one and see how it feels. On Fender type guitars, I like about 0.20-0.25mm for guitars I play with a light touch (T-types) and 0.30-0.35 for ones I play with a heavier touch (S-types). With the S-types I've tried going back to 0.2mm but it never feels right to me and I end up putting it back to 0.30-0.35mm. Thanks for this information!
Fender recommends adding relief when the fingerboard radius tightens, 0.3 mm (0.012") or a little above, is about what they recommend for 7.25" radius necks. Glad you liked the video. Thanks for your comment!
By far the best neck adjustment video on YT. I have a question. I bought a cheap import maple neck with maple fretboard and spoke wheel from eBay. I can’t get the neck to give any relief even under exaggerated tension. It’s dead flat when truss rod is at its loosest position. I’ve spent quite a few hours leveling and dressing the frets, adjusting the bridge and shimmed the heal in tiny increments numerous times. I even added threaded inserts to reduce screw hole damage from taking the neck off and on so many times. My relief can’t get anything under 4.0mm at the 7th fret as instructed. Should I cut my loss and consider this neck trash or is there a way to fix this?
If the truss rod has no effect and you have no neck relief even under string tension, yeah it’s probably junk. Make a claim on eBay and leave a review to warn others.
Thank you very much for your reply and advice. I had a feeling that would be your response. I’m going to reach out to the seller and see what they have to say. Hopefully they’re willing to work with me. I don’t like leave negative reviews if I can help it. Anyway keep the great videos coming. I truly appreciate them.@@DrKevGuitar
@@danrao3707 Nobody likes to leave negative reviews but they have a place. Any product being sold has to be fit for purpose. If it’s not, and the seller is unable to meet their obligation to make it right, we also have an obligation to warn others. Thanks so much for your comment. Be good my friend!
Good vid, one point I would add, particularly easy with spoke adjusters, mark it with a Sharpie so you know where you started. Sometimes the neck will change a little over a few days, quite normal, so worth re-checking.
@@DrKevGuitar yeah you really cleared up so many blind spots for a person who has so many questions. Thank you for the explanation on maxing out the truss rod and showing in real time how the adjustments affect the wood
@@emilloffler1216 You need to find some way of holding the string down at the 1st fret. Ask another person to help? Make a capo with a pencil and rubber bands?
Thanks so much! I was so worried because before i started to educate myself I turned the truss rod tight and then too lose and I thought I screwed up the guitar. Then I learned a bit and moved it to what felt right and the action is good and the truss rod isn’t tight anymore. I do have a question. I did raise the height of the 6 th string by adjusting the individual saddle height thing Should I put it back lower and then test using your method ? Or doesn’t it matter as long as the guitar feels good to me ? Thanks
Great video, run for your life, Its going to blow. You explained the truss rod very well, easy to understand and a few laughs along the way. Doing a set up on my 2004 Fender Players Strat. Have to go out and get some saddle screws because some are stripped over the years. I am going to do this myself. I almost had it but am not satisfied with the buzz i am getting. Ray, Oklahoma
Thanks, I have an acoustic martin guitar according to your instruction I have to give it a lot of neck relief because even 1.5 mm touches the string but do I really need to give neck relief when I am happy with the action and there is no buzzing fret? Is this a must-do process for set up?
Of course you could. Manufacturer’s specs are a great starting point. In principle they are as much about consistency leaving the factory and hanging on the wall in a store is they are about anything else, but most players pretty happy right there. Dial right in to factory spec, adjust to your own liking if necessary, then measure again and you can always get right back to your own preference very quickly when necessary.
Hello to you, great video. Just a question regarding adjustment. I have played guitar for many years but I have never adjusted it professionally , only by feel. To the point. I got a new Fender and it is already set up for 9s. When I took a look at the neck it seems very straight, no bows , no relief etc. BUT when I played 9s I got this feeling that though the action is low what I really like still there is missing this palpable string touch on a straighter fretboard. So I swapped the 9s for 8.5 and it feels great now - it looks like the neck still needs micro adjustment for the 9 set ? I cannot describe it better but with the 8s it is not only about the tension but about the touch feel pretty close to the neck ( I love very low action ) does it mean I have to micro adjust the neck for 9s or it is simply the tension ?
Neck relief will change with string tension so *in theory* you might want to adjust the truss rod when you change the gauge. BUT if you are happy with the guitar plays and don't feel the need to make any further adjustment, then just enjoy your guitar!
Thanks! Yes, you can use off cuts from your guitar strings, 9 gauge string is 0.009" of an inch, about 0.23 mm. Bend it over and stick the two ends to something like a piece of card or popsicle stick. A standard business card is about 0.013" / 0.33 mm, so if you fit a card in between the string and the 7th fret with any extra space, you can reduce the relief a little.
Dr Kev…great stuff…we know we’re asking a lot of the trussrod to move the wood of a neck…so how can it work with these necks that have graphite reinforced rods ??…I don’t see how a trussrod could move those…just wondering!!!!!
Carbon fibre rods are quite like metal rods in terms of stiffness and strength. But they have a great advantage of being much lighter and more temperature stable than wood or metal. And while the same amount of force from a truss rod produces less movement in a carbon-reinforced the neck, less movement is required, so all is well.
0.10 is a great point to start. I've had necks that only require 00.5 but they are the exception which also allows for the lowest "action" if that is what you are looking for. You can have it "pleck'd" by a pro but it really all depends on what you're starting with how good it can be without a complete and pro refret/workover, and that's still no guarantee. Playing the instrument is the best way to whittle it down how good it is in that respect imho. I had a 73 SG {for 40+yrs} that was just off the deck all the way up and down its neck without buzz and sang beautifully. I have never had one that good since. Close but no cigar. {I regret selling it but had to at the time}. Perfection in guitars is far and few between. Presently, I have an Ibanez and a PRS that come close. Also, a custom-made Tele that rocks. They all have required much work/attention to get to that point. Still not quite up to the 73 SG. Other SG's I've tried can't compete, and I've tried a lot. The way it is in Guitar world. Play them all is my best advice. You can almost always improve the set-up from there for your preference.
Sometimes I simply forget to loosen the strings before I tighten the rod to reduce neck relief. Probably safer approach would be to slacken strings to reduce string tension before you attempt to tighten a truss rod.
Hi @DrKevGuitar I have a problem with my guitar,it sound good,but the 11 fret the E-D-G string buzz a lot,only on the 11 fret.I dont know if is the truss rod,but I guess so.I'm trying to adjust it,but I have to put lot of force to move it so I'm afraid to breack it and I had given up udjusting it.Please any advice? p.s.Sorry for my bad english :) Anyways Thanks for your video,Blessing!
A buzz on just one single fret is usually because either a) that fret is lower than the other frets around it or b) there’s a fret ahead of it that is too high. Adjusting your trust rod may not help there. Time to take it to a professional for diagnosis.
Excellent question! Yes, we usually only measure on the bass side, because it's most convenient, because too little neck relief will tend to produce the most string buzz on the low E string, and because we simply don't need to measure to both sides to get excellent results. If you measure on the other side it may or may not give you an identical reading (not uncommon, because wood does what wood wants) but that's not necessarily indicative of a problem to be fixed, unless the difference is large and/or there are issues with string buzz or action that can't be fixed.
Great question! Generally a little more than skinny strings, most bass manufacturers recommend 0.3 mm to 0.5 mm, I tend to go on the lower side of that.
No, the differences in string tension are small. When you think you are done, a final retune and measure and last adjustment are all that is necessary.
Great video Man, thanks. So neck relief is not influenced by the action? I mean if you adjust the action after setting n relief at 0.2mm will that stay at 0.2 even if you change action hight?
Great question! Neck relief is not affected by string action. Neck relief is a result of the force from string tension pulling on the tuning posts at the headstock. Changing tuning and/or string gauge will change that but not the height of the bridge or saddles.
Nice video. Do you find the string gauge impacts setup? I’ve played 10’s for awhile but feel 9’s are just so much more comfortable but I’m buzzing more. Feel like I need to raise the action even though it’s a thinner string.
Yes, string gauge can affect setup (with a "but..."). Light strings = lower tension = floppier! = more buzz, especially on the low E string. And lower string tension on the neck means less neck relief than before, And therefore slightly lower action, so be sure to check adjust truss rod if necessary. But... Once that's done, whether or not you feel the need to change action or relief is up to you. Not everyone does. Just don't fall into the trap of chasing non-existent perfection. While doing our setups we tend to hyperfocus on string buzz that's not noticeable when actually playing real music.
One of the best demostrations! Maybe you can get a closeup more often? I personally tend to like a gap of 0,5 mm recently (which is 2 1/2 of yours 😲 ), like for example Mayonnes recommends for their Neck Relief, and a higher String Action of about 2,5 mm Bass Side/2 mm Treble Side (even for example recommended by a company like Mayonnes). This definitely gives you a waaaaaayyyyy more dynamic and rich full sound once you get accustomed to those kind of settings 🤗 BTW, maybe because of breakangle, the tuning stability is better too 😉
@@ws6206 That's Mayones suggested specification. You'll find it in their user's guide. Yamaha used to suggest something similar too. 2.5 mm on the bass side is a little high for electric guitars but not unusual. If it was on the high e string, yes, it's getting out of the ordinary. But I set my strat that way 20 years ago. It was clean and buzz-free no matter how hard I hit it and made big bends on a 7.25" neck cleaner. And remember that classical guitars are often set to 4 mm or more on the low E strings. In the grand scheme of things, 2.5 mm on the low e is not crazy.
@@ws6206 I get them from me 😁 BTW in the last Premier Guitar Steve Vai Rigdown his Guitar Tech mentions, that Steve Vai uses String Action of 2.5mm Bass Side and 2.25mm (!!) Treble Side - so even slightly higher than mine. Recomendation: try yourself, Tone is sooooooooo much better!
@@Worlds_Worst_Guitarist The most recent interview with Vai's tech has him at 1.5mm, I think it's the one with Thomann. Anything above 2mm for me and it's easy for my fingers to slip off/miss the string. Maybe it's technique that I have to work on but I don't have that issue when I have lower action. The highest I go is 2mm on the bass side.
On an acoustic guitar, if a truss rod breaks through accidentally over tightening, can they be replaced? I guess that would mean sending it to luthier?
Yes, that means sending it to a luthier. Usually, that involves removing the frets, ungluing the fingerboard, extracting the old truss rod, installing the new truss rod, re-gluing the fingerboard, refretting the instrument. It’s a long and expensive job.
It depends on the guitar. Sometimes I go for where the neck heel gets thick. Sometimes I’ll just measure the 17th fret. If you measure longer than the 17th fret, you may find slightly higher numbers work better for you.
When I followed your recommendations for neck relief on your wall, high E frets 20-24 on my set-neck guitar died. Apparently, my neck functions best with a certain amount of backbow. Is that weird? Maybe your wall/video should include exceptions for 24 fret gtars.
@@flppr1 No that’s not normal. No guitar should function well with a backbow. When the very highest frets are buzzing, or are are not playing clearly that suggests more height at the bridge is needed or you may have a problem with a raised fret up there. Maybe time to take your guitar to a professional for a proper check up.
I would have loved to see the difference in actual measurements when it was 2 in the playing position what it actually would have measured laying flat with gravity! Surely it can’t be much of a difference.
It can add up to 0.1 mm (0.004”) but it will depend on the thickness and stiffness of the neck wood and the weight of the body. But also with floating tremolo bridges the weight of the trem block will pull the bridge back which alters the string height and pulls the strings noticeably out of tune. So it’s always best practice to test and measure in playing position. Make it a habit for all instruments and you’ll always be right.
Good question. I think the answer is no. That is what Fender recommend (without explanation), tighter radius gets more relief, but no other manufacturer does. I really can't see any compelling reason to do it but remember those numbers are 1) my preferred setting, and 2) my recommended starting point for others to figure out what works for them. So don't worry about radius when setting relief and action. Just start somewhere with the guitar in front of you and make further adjustment if you feel it's necessary. When you find what you like, measure it up, write it down, and you can always get back there quickly and easily.
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I am a retired teacher and understand how hard it is for some to get their point across to students - that is the difference - u sir have that elusive quality of getting ur point across and making it easy to apply - thanx❤
Thank you, David!
Been watching various videos the past day or two on adjusting truss rods, setting action, and intonation. I watched this one entirely through. Great job explaining it. Very thorough and you're a great teacher!
Thank you for your lovely comment!
I rarely comment on youtube videos but I just have to say thank you! As someone with adhd this was honestly the straight up easiest video to understand that I've found, great structure and very clear instructions. You got my brain to fully focus for 18 minutes straight while taking notes, that's very impressive haha! Great work!
Thank you!
When you got to the part where you showed everyone to not be scared of the truss rod you nearly made me pee my pants laughing. You rock my friend!
Wonderful video. You didn't just state what to do, but you also explained why. Thank you!
@@shanefrank3281 And thank you! I appreciate you taking the time to comment.
Fantastic explanation! Way more clear than any other tutorial I’ve seen, plus no pushing of any products like half of these other guitar tutorial channels.
Thank you €
Hey Ralph Macchio is teaching us how to adjust the truss rod. The Karate Kid plays and fixes guitars! Daniel-Son.
🤣
Thank you so much. I’ve been playing for 15 years and I didn’t realize how much a guitar’s set up manners until now. Drastic improvement.
Nailed it. Thank you sympathetically explained. Exactly the video I was looking for.
What can i say? İ followed this guide , My guitar came alive. You the professor made my day, wish you have a nice sweet week!! Thanks a bunch!!!!
Oh thank you! It’s my birthday tomorrow and (long COVID permitting) I will have a sweet rest of week!
@@DrKevGuitar Happy Birthday !! Nice to have you! Peace!
great video, i watched at least 20 videos in the last week. Did my own fret leveling job, then needed a "set up" which i have never done alone and this video brought it together SO nicely.
I have watched multiple videos and didn't quite get it, especially in fear of ruining my instrument, but this video was very informative and well explained. Thank you so much for posting this video!
You are very welcome and thank you for your comment.
Great explanation, and I agree on the "small adjustments" statement. I've made some pretty extreme adjustments to my guitars and have had no issues. There was also no noticable difference after an extended period of time.
You sequenced and timed your instructional steps masterfully.
Thank you Gökhan!
Amazing video Kev, amazing couple videos actually. Hands down the best break down on adjusting the neck that I’ve seen… and I’ve watched a bunch before I came across yours. Now I don’t have to search anymore, and can fix my guitar and get back to playing. Thanks so much, appreciate it!
Thanks so much, Bubskii!
I've watched both the Gibson and Stewmac videos on this subject. Yours is by far the best and most clear.
Thank you! Glad you find it useful!
You are a very intelligent individual, thank you
@@Jakevoss96 Thank you Jake. Very much appreciated!
One time i adjusted my neck on a squier. Days lafer it started cracking and then just cracked all over. Ive stayed away from it since.
Lately i decided im going to learn how to do set ups properly. After all the research ive done for weeks i decided tonight to not bother and just pay someone to do it for me.
Luckily i came across this video of you teaching this for idiots and now im back in the game and feel confident enough to do my fender. And now i know why my neck cracked on the squier. Because i was pushing it when it was tight! So thank you, you have an extra like and sub!
Thank you for providing concise information is a short span of time.
Back to the bench to set up all my guitars.
literally the best vid on this subject, I was stressing a lot but u helped me remove all fret buzz from Ibanez 2405 custom shop which has had the buzz for years. Thanks.
Well done Brian! Thanks so much for your comment. I appreciate it.
That was the best lesson on truss rod's for how to adjust in my opinion, Thanks from the UK....
Glad you enjoyed it! And thanks so much for your comment!
the best truss rod video I found so far. amazing work
New Sub. Great video, had a smile on my face with some of your comments. You are very good at explaining things and given me the confidence to adjust my truss rod as I have major buzzing at the first couple of frets.
Great video. Clear information and instructions, plus the "why" in addition to the "how" will help me retain the information. Just the right amount of humor too. Thanks!
Thank you! Tell your friends!
Although there are several videos on truss rod adjusment on YT, this video is the one that really helped me, because other videos don't tell you the numbers (use a business card etc.). Your instructions and explanations are very clear and even a dummy can understand them. I have the measurement tool on order, can't wait to setup my guitars the right way! I cannot thank you enough, sir! Subscribed at once.
Thank you!
Fantastic job my friend, now to get my days work in and head home to try to get the buzzing out of my Epiphone, once again thank you my friend, Rock on Mikey rock on.
@@alfredobenavides8175 Thank you, my friend!
Clearest video I've watched on this... Thanks.
Best explanation I've seen regarding truss rod!!!
I am so grateful to have come across your video.
Very brave and clear.
I am sure this also applies for any electric bass specs.
All the Best!
Thank you!
I enjoyed the heck out of that. I took my brand new Fender American Ultra Stratocaster to the luthier in my city for a setup. He has had it a week. I think I will go get it and set it up myself. Thanks
Thank you!
Awesome 😊 and this is how all instruction videos should be made.
Thank you!
Thank you for providing this explanation along with the video on string action. I have always had this truss rod fear because of the so called experts that tell me to only leave truss rod adjustment to the luthier.
The relief is now at 0.20 feeler gauge and action at 2.0mm. Plays really smoothly 👍☺️
Thank you for your comment and great work you!
Really great video. I was terrified to touch my guitars. Cost me a fortune with setups over the years. Watched a lot of videos on this topic but I think this is one of the best. Thank a lot!!
Thank you Darryl!
Ok first off, thanks for this video, I’ve only been playing a matter of days but I was aware the was something not quite right , after watching this I measured and altered the neck relief from .40 to your recommended .20 with great confidence and it’s playing a lot better. One a lot happier Strat owner😊
Congrats on your new guitar and a good job well done! 👍🏻
I have been looking into a ton of videos on this topic! This however was easy to understand and you just have a pleasant way of explaining things. Thank you!
You're very welcome! Thank you for the comment!
Hey Kev , your clearly a true teacher as you kept me glued though the whole video. Thanks so much for sharing your experience & wisdom here I certainly enjoyed your style & have learnt some valuable lessons here
You are very welcome, Phil! And thank you for your comment, it means a lot. ☺
I'm an English teacher; it's you're not your.
Great explanation! Thanks for the detailed information. Very interesting and useful, I’ll try it on my Tele soon!
thanks. very informative and a nice quick reference for my general maintenance. too many guitars on hand to pay someone else
Thanks for your advise. I never did uit before but I will do it now.
This was so easy to follow - thanks for the video
I just followed this to adjust my Gretsch, changed from 10-46 to 9-42 to try them out and was getting lots of string rattle which I did not have with the other strings, but to my surprise I had to tighten my neck as my gap with the new strings was about .4. I thought the neck would bow down with thinner strings like a U, but mine seemed to bow up like a n. Anyway, at .2 now and no rattle. Thanks for the video.
Excellent and clear explanation.Thank you.
I must admit I was suss seeing so many videos on utube on neck relief , but got a pleasant surprise seeing yours on the relief of guitar neck and it was very well presented and very informative , and detailed . I also like the fact you pointed out that there's a good preference number-- the magic number 0.20mm .I think waiting 30min after each turn , may be a good idea given the hoopla i read . I like to see yuo do a video on frets finding and ,fixing bad ones . A Very good video .
Thank you!
Thank you. I was always told to baby the truss rod.
Very well explained video. Thank you.
You’re welcome!
Many thanks Kev, this was so helpful.
And took the mystery, away about adjusting a truss rod.
you explained measurements are so important
I have now dug out , a set of "feeler gauges"
Best wishes
Thank you David!
Thank you so much! This is so informative. I just bought a guitar and wanna do my own setup 🩵🩵🩵🩵
You got this! It’s not rocket science. With practice it gets easier and easier. 👍🏻
Excellent - so many videos on the subject of guitar setup - this was the best on setting neck relief.
Thank you!
11:56 that true. I rembemr having an Ibanez many years ago, i bought it while still kinda new at Guitars and havent noticed that the Neck was literally bent like a Banana.. My unlce who play guitars said the nack is catastrophal and fixed the Neck with turning the truss road multiple times in one Go.. After the adjustement the Neck waas traight and my playing was much better.
What a great video! I always wanted to try doing this and these steps are really simple. thanks man.
Glad you found it helpful and thanks for the comment!
This video is very helpful with a good explanation. Is there a video on how to adjust the bridge for string action if the neck relief is ok?
You are a great teacher ! I shared with friends !
Thank you!
Subscribed! Wow thank you for the detailed insight, I have some Harley Benton guitars that do not have specifications for them. Being that they are copies of say Tele and 335 their lengths and build are a bit customized so as to not directly copy the originals. This was confusing me. Thank you again!
You are very welcome!
Hi DrKev, thanks for a reply. I will probably buy a capo for that purpose. Even with my string saddles adjusted full down into the bridgeplate the action is still too high. It seems I may need a neck pocket shim to bring the neck up, and fret dressing. There are no bows or anything, the truss rod is set as best as it could be. Anway I will seek out a good Luthier, and hope the action can be sorted. I've done all I can with my basic skill with my guitars.
@@emilloffler1216 yes, it sounds like a shim is exactly what’s required. You can do the shim yourself. And yes, I have two capos and 99% of all their use is doing set ups. I never almost never use them when playing.
Excellent teacher; excellent video.
Thank you! 😃
Love your style fella! Thanks for the vid.
You’re welcome, and thank you!
I've seen your other neck relief videos, and even though I previously understood the concept, after watching those I felt like I REALLY understood. Like before I technically understood what I was doing but after your videos I understood WHY I was doing it and not just going through the motions or just simply setting it to a prescribed dimension. I've found on Gibson type guitars I like about 0.010" (0.25mm) relief regardless of my playing style (light or heavy) but I've never really tried less. I'm going to try 0.008" (0.2mm) on one and see how it feels. On Fender type guitars, I like about 0.20-0.25mm for guitars I play with a light touch (T-types) and 0.30-0.35 for ones I play with a heavier touch (S-types). With the S-types I've tried going back to 0.2mm but it never feels right to me and I end up putting it back to 0.30-0.35mm. Thanks for this information!
Fender recommends adding relief when the fingerboard radius tightens, 0.3 mm (0.012") or a little above, is about what they recommend for 7.25" radius necks. Glad you liked the video. Thanks for your comment!
Great video! Many thanks!
Many welcomes! 🙂
Nicely done!
Thanks robbyrob!
Tell me an easier way to work with a wraparound bridge .
You’re awesome! Thank you sir!
You're welcome!
By far the best neck adjustment video on YT. I have a question. I bought a cheap import maple neck with maple fretboard and spoke wheel from eBay. I can’t get the neck to give any relief even under exaggerated tension. It’s dead flat when truss rod is at its loosest position. I’ve spent quite a few hours leveling and dressing the frets, adjusting the bridge and shimmed the heal in tiny increments numerous times. I even added threaded inserts to reduce screw hole damage from taking the neck off and on so many times. My relief can’t get anything under 4.0mm at the 7th fret as instructed. Should I cut my loss and consider this neck trash or is there a way to fix this?
If the truss rod has no effect and you have no neck relief even under string tension, yeah it’s probably junk. Make a claim on eBay and leave a review to warn others.
Thank you very much for your reply and advice. I had a feeling that would be your response. I’m going to reach out to the seller and see what they have to say. Hopefully they’re willing to work with me. I don’t like leave negative reviews if I can help it. Anyway keep the great videos coming. I truly appreciate them.@@DrKevGuitar
@@danrao3707 Nobody likes to leave negative reviews but they have a place. Any product being sold has to be fit for purpose. If it’s not, and the seller is unable to meet their obligation to make it right, we also have an obligation to warn others. Thanks so much for your comment. Be good my friend!
Good vid, one point I would add, particularly easy with spoke adjusters, mark it with a Sharpie so you know where you started. Sometimes the neck will change a little over a few days, quite normal, so worth re-checking.
Thank you!
This is such a good video, omg .
Thanks!
@@DrKevGuitar yeah you really cleared up so many blind spots for a person who has so many questions. Thank you for the explanation on maxing out the truss rod and showing in real time how the adjustments affect the wood
Good video!
Thank you!
Thank you too!
Neck relief was dark magic for me until I saw this. Is there a chart of your guide measurements I can download for reference?
Pen and paper for you will be faster than me making a download and putting it somewhere!
I took a screenshot and cropped it, thanks!
Brilliant
Thanks you!
Is there anyway of measuring and adjusting string height with the feeler gauge, without having to use a capo, please.
@@emilloffler1216 You need to find some way of holding the string down at the 1st fret. Ask another person to help? Make a capo with a pencil and rubber bands?
Thanks so much! I was so worried because before i started to educate myself I turned the truss rod tight and then too lose and I thought I screwed up the guitar. Then I learned a bit and moved it to what felt right and the action is good and the truss rod isn’t tight anymore. I do have a question. I did raise the height of the 6 th string by adjusting the individual saddle height thing Should I put it back lower and then test using your method ? Or doesn’t it matter as long as the guitar feels good to me ? Thanks
If it feels right to you that’s what’s most important. 👍🏻
@@DrKevGuitar okay thanks so much
I decided to change the strings so after I do that I guess I will recheck all over again. Thank you
Great video, run for your life, Its going to blow. You explained the truss rod very well, easy to understand and a few laughs along the way. Doing a set up on my 2004 Fender Players Strat. Have to go out and get some saddle screws because some are stripped over the years. I am going to do this myself. I almost had it but am not satisfied with the buzz i am getting. Ray, Oklahoma
Thank you, Ray!
this is great. thanks!
You’re welcome!
Thanks, I have an acoustic martin guitar according to your instruction I have to give it a lot of neck relief because even 1.5 mm touches the string but do I really need to give neck relief when I am happy with the action and there is no buzzing fret? Is this a must-do process for set up?
Question… if I have the manufacturer specs, could I just dial in to the measurement straight away? Great video! Just subscribed. Thank you
Of course you could. Manufacturer’s specs are a great starting point. In principle they are as much about consistency leaving the factory and hanging on the wall in a store is they are about anything else, but most players pretty happy right there. Dial right in to factory spec, adjust to your own liking if necessary, then measure again and you can always get right back to your own preference very quickly when necessary.
Where can I buy the feeler gauges you used that go down to the .2 mm thicknesses and have the in between sizes ? thanks,
HAL
Hello to you, great video. Just a question regarding adjustment. I have played guitar for many years but I have never adjusted it professionally , only by feel. To the point. I got a new Fender and it is already set up for 9s. When I took a look at the neck it seems very straight, no bows , no relief etc. BUT when I played 9s I got this feeling that though the action is low what I really like still there is missing this palpable string touch on a straighter fretboard. So I swapped the 9s for 8.5 and it feels great now - it looks like the neck still needs micro adjustment for the 9 set ? I cannot describe it better but with the 8s it is not only about the tension but about the touch feel pretty close to the neck ( I love very low action ) does it mean I have to micro adjust the neck for 9s or it is simply the tension ?
Neck relief will change with string tension so *in theory* you might want to adjust the truss rod when you change the gauge. BUT if you are happy with the guitar plays and don't feel the need to make any further adjustment, then just enjoy your guitar!
Dumb question. But other than a feeler gauge is there anything else i could use to get a rough estimate of the relief. Awesome video btw!!
Thanks! Yes, you can use off cuts from your guitar strings, 9 gauge string is 0.009" of an inch, about 0.23 mm. Bend it over and stick the two ends to something like a piece of card or popsicle stick. A standard business card is about 0.013" / 0.33 mm, so if you fit a card in between the string and the 7th fret with any extra space, you can reduce the relief a little.
Dr Kev…great stuff…we know we’re asking a lot of the trussrod to move the wood of a neck…so how can it work with these necks that have graphite reinforced rods ??…I don’t see how a trussrod could move those…just wondering!!!!!
Carbon fibre rods are quite like metal rods in terms of stiffness and strength. But they have a great advantage of being much lighter and more temperature stable than wood or metal. And while the same amount of force from a truss rod produces less movement in a carbon-reinforced the neck, less movement is required, so all is well.
@@DrKevGuitar ….thanks…just stumbled on your channel and had to sub….really good stuff!!!!
@@eddiejr540 Thank you!
0.10 is a great point to start. I've had necks that only require 00.5 but they are the exception which also allows for the lowest "action" if that is what you are looking for. You can have it "pleck'd" by a pro but it really all depends on what you're starting with how good it can be without a complete and pro refret/workover, and that's still no guarantee. Playing the instrument is the best way to whittle it down how good it is in that respect imho. I had a 73 SG {for 40+yrs} that was just off the deck all the way up and down its neck without buzz and sang beautifully. I have never had one that good since. Close but no cigar. {I regret selling it but had to at the time}. Perfection in guitars is far and few between. Presently, I have an Ibanez and a PRS that come close. Also, a custom-made Tele that rocks. They all have required much work/attention to get to that point. Still not quite up to the 73 SG. Other SG's I've tried can't compete, and I've tried a lot. The way it is in Guitar world. Play them all is my best advice. You can almost always improve the set-up from there for your preference.
excellent
Should I have to put something in between bridge and body to fill gap while I’m adjusting truss road?
@@gokhanayvazoglu6295 No. not necessary.
Sometimes I simply forget to loosen the strings before I tighten the rod to reduce neck relief. Probably safer approach would be to slacken strings to reduce string tension before you attempt to tighten a truss rod.
Not necessary on electric guitars. Bass, yes, guitars no.
Thanks!
Thank you Eddie!
Thank you very much for all these videos! Question: Do I need to loosen the strings if I need to tighten the truss rod?
No, no need. 👍🏻
@@DrKevGuitar thank you!
Hi @DrKevGuitar I have a problem with my guitar,it sound good,but the 11 fret the E-D-G string buzz a lot,only on the 11 fret.I dont know if is the truss rod,but I guess so.I'm trying to adjust it,but I have to put lot of force to move it so I'm afraid to breack it and I had given up udjusting it.Please any advice? p.s.Sorry for my bad english :) Anyways Thanks for your video,Blessing!
A buzz on just one single fret is usually because either a) that fret is lower than the other frets around it or b) there’s a fret ahead of it that is too high. Adjusting your trust rod may not help there. Time to take it to a professional for diagnosis.
So you only have to check the big E string as far as neck relief is concerned?
Excellent question! Yes, we usually only measure on the bass side, because it's most convenient, because too little neck relief will tend to produce the most string buzz on the low E string, and because we simply don't need to measure to both sides to get excellent results. If you measure on the other side it may or may not give you an identical reading (not uncommon, because wood does what wood wants) but that's not necessarily indicative of a problem to be fixed, unless the difference is large and/or there are issues with string buzz or action that can't be fixed.
Do you have the neck relief mesuarements for bass guitar neck?
Great question! Generally a little more than skinny strings, most bass manufacturers recommend 0.3 mm to 0.5 mm, I tend to go on the lower side of that.
Do you advice to retune the guitar after each adjustment and before measuring, so the string tension is exactly the one you will have when playing?
No, the differences in string tension are small. When you think you are done, a final retune and measure and last adjustment are all that is necessary.
@@DrKevGuitar Thank you!
@@DrKevGuitar The same applies for a bass, I understand?
@@luinixg yes
Great video Man, thanks. So neck relief is not influenced by the action? I mean if you adjust the action after setting n relief at 0.2mm will that stay at 0.2 even if you change action hight?
Great question! Neck relief is not affected by string action. Neck relief is a result of the force from string tension pulling on the tuning posts at the headstock. Changing tuning and/or string gauge will change that but not the height of the bridge or saddles.
@DrKevGuitar thanks, figured so much but wasn't 100% certain
Nice video. Do you find the string gauge impacts setup? I’ve played 10’s for awhile but feel 9’s are just so much more comfortable but I’m buzzing more. Feel like I need to raise the action even though it’s a thinner string.
Yes, string gauge can affect setup (with a "but..."). Light strings = lower tension = floppier! = more buzz, especially on the low E string. And lower string tension on the neck means less neck relief than before, And therefore slightly lower action, so be sure to check adjust truss rod if necessary. But... Once that's done, whether or not you feel the need to change action or relief is up to you. Not everyone does. Just don't fall into the trap of chasing non-existent perfection. While doing our setups we tend to hyperfocus on string buzz that's not noticeable when actually playing real music.
One of the best demostrations! Maybe you can get a closeup more often? I personally tend to like a gap of 0,5 mm recently (which is 2 1/2 of yours 😲 ), like for example Mayonnes recommends for their Neck Relief, and a higher String Action of about 2,5 mm Bass Side/2 mm Treble Side (even for example recommended by a company like Mayonnes). This definitely gives you a waaaaaayyyyy more dynamic and rich full sound once you get accustomed to those kind of settings 🤗 BTW, maybe because of breakangle, the tuning stability is better too 😉
Thank you!
Where did you get those specs from? 2mm is tolerable but 2.5 is crazy high.
@@ws6206 That's Mayones suggested specification. You'll find it in their user's guide. Yamaha used to suggest something similar too. 2.5 mm on the bass side is a little high for electric guitars but not unusual. If it was on the high e string, yes, it's getting out of the ordinary. But I set my strat that way 20 years ago. It was clean and buzz-free no matter how hard I hit it and made big bends on a 7.25" neck cleaner. And remember that classical guitars are often set to 4 mm or more on the low E strings. In the grand scheme of things, 2.5 mm on the low e is not crazy.
@@ws6206 I get them from me 😁 BTW in the last Premier Guitar Steve Vai Rigdown his Guitar Tech mentions, that Steve Vai uses String Action of 2.5mm Bass Side and 2.25mm (!!) Treble Side - so even slightly higher than mine. Recomendation: try yourself, Tone is sooooooooo much better!
@@Worlds_Worst_Guitarist The most recent interview with Vai's tech has him at 1.5mm, I think it's the one with Thomann. Anything above 2mm for me and it's easy for my fingers to slip off/miss the string. Maybe it's technique that I have to work on but I don't have that issue when I have lower action.
The highest I go is 2mm on the bass side.
On an acoustic guitar, if a truss rod breaks through accidentally over tightening, can they be replaced? I guess that would mean sending it to luthier?
Yes, that means sending it to a luthier. Usually, that involves removing the frets, ungluing the fingerboard, extracting the old truss rod, installing the new truss rod, re-gluing the fingerboard, refretting the instrument. It’s a long and expensive job.
@@DrKevGuitar
wow, no wonder people are scared off messing with it. Thanks for the reply.
Do you deal with action or neck relief first?
@@MrSqilz Always neck relief first.
Which fret to measure gap on 24 fret guitar? Is body fret where neck joins body, or where neck is thickest?
It depends on the guitar. Sometimes I go for where the neck heel gets thick. Sometimes I’ll just measure the 17th fret. If you measure longer than the 17th fret, you may find slightly higher numbers work better for you.
When I followed your recommendations for neck relief on your wall, high E frets 20-24 on my set-neck guitar died. Apparently, my neck functions best with a certain amount of backbow. Is that weird? Maybe your wall/video should include exceptions for 24 fret gtars.
@@flppr1 No that’s not normal. No guitar should function well with a backbow. When the very highest frets are buzzing, or are are not playing clearly that suggests more height at the bridge is needed or you may have a problem with a raised fret up there. Maybe time to take your guitar to a professional for a proper check up.
Hi, should you measure when in tune?
Yes!
I would have loved to see the difference in actual measurements when it was 2 in the playing position what it actually would have measured laying flat with gravity! Surely it can’t be much of a difference.
It can add up to 0.1 mm (0.004”) but it will depend on the thickness and stiffness of the neck wood and the weight of the body. But also with floating tremolo bridges the weight of the trem block will pull the bridge back which alters the string height and pulls the strings noticeably out of tune. So it’s always best practice to test and measure in playing position. Make it a habit for all instruments and you’ll always be right.
In the US pronouncing it "CAP"-O would be in reference to a high ranking member of the Mafia
Where to find manufacturers recommendations?
Most manufacturers publish it on their websites.
Where can I find the thin feeler gauges you use that go down to .2 mm ? thanks Hal
Amazon, StewMac, Allparts, Thomann, they’re easy to find. Very cheap too.
@@DrKevGuitar thx i will try the others places but did not find one that thin on Stew Mac
isnt the target neck relief dependent on the radius of the neck (so its not always 0.008)?
Good question. I think the answer is no. That is what Fender recommend (without explanation), tighter radius gets more relief, but no other manufacturer does. I really can't see any compelling reason to do it but remember those numbers are 1) my preferred setting, and 2) my recommended starting point for others to figure out what works for them. So don't worry about radius when setting relief and action. Just start somewhere with the guitar in front of you and make further adjustment if you feel it's necessary. When you find what you like, measure it up, write it down, and you can always get back there quickly and easily.
@@DrKevGuitar ok tnx, what is your neck radius?
@@tendingtropic7778 10”