While it sounds sketchy, having the shaft turning really does make for a nice, clean cut, and it actually isn't that bad in practice (at least on the ground - on a lift like that, I think I'd pass... LOL). I bought the jig tool and it works great, with only one gripe - the point is to be able to get a nice, straight hole in there, but that advantage kind of gets lost if you either freehand the alignment of the 1/4" pilot or drill it using the 5/16" hole in the jig. So I just went straight to the 5/16" so I could take full advantage of the jig. I found myself wishing the jig had a 1/4" hole instead, so I could use the jig for that and then just chase it freehand at 5/16". Regardless, made for a nice, clean install on the 242 in my WJ. 🙂
I felt the same so I went to big R some areas it's called cal ranch or tsc all basically same store if you got a good hardware store they will have it also but not big box stores I bought a bronze bushing for under 3$ that was 5/16 od 1/4 id put it in the tool for pilot hole worked great
Do you have a similar product for the NP231 in my wife's 94 ZJ? It's got a 4.0 in it, and I will need to know if there's any 'gotchas' if I switch from the stock D35 rear axle to a D44a from a 94 V8 Grand.
@JeepITguy The NP 231 in the ZJ should be very similar to the one in this video. I'm sure we have what you need to do the Hack n Tap on your 231. When in doubt, send us an email with pictures of your t-case and vehicle info and we'll be happy to help. tech@ironrockoffroad.com If you're swapping rear axles from one ZJ to another, try to get the rear driveshaft too. Then you can test drive the Jeep with the new axle. You don't necessarily need to do the Hack n Tap when swapping axles, but I understand you might want to do it all at once. Honestly, the best way to go is to get the rear axle swapped into place and measure for your new driveshaft at ride height. A custom driveshaft isn't cheap and can't be returned.
@@IronRockOffRoad it has a 4" lift at present. Basically a F/R swap of the coil springs and a few other things. Have to replace the drivers side rear shaft on the D35, and I refuse to pay 300 bucks for a shaft for a weak axle. Going to put a D44a from similar year V8 ZJ in it, and truss it.
@@IronRockOffRoad hell yeah man! Thanks! Keep them in stock please I gotta talk my wife into letting me buy this lol. I just spent $1200 on my jeep I might have to wait a month or two...
confused?? you mentioned possibly needing to grind/cut back of your yoke to give clearance for the dust shield (or in my part of the world... road salt and mud shield).... but when you screwed on the yoke... it appeard to be plennnty of room (mines NP242)
@matthew7972 I assume this is for your WJ? If so, we have seen some WJ 247 t-cases that are already drilled and tapped from the factory. If not, you will need a 5/16 carbide drill bit for the tap drill, also a 3/8 carbide drill bit to remove the hardened area before tapping. Then a standard high-speed steel tap can be used. This will also require spacer washers for proper seal alignment. The spacer washers go inside the new yoke to make it sit at the correct depth inside the t-case. You might need to source your own grade 8, 3/8" bolt to secure the yoke in place. The included bolt might not be the proper length.
@matthew7972 You can also check the Hack n Tap product listing on our website and instructions for more pictures and information. Product listing: www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/hack-n-tap-slip-yoke-eliminator-kit.html Instructions: www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/I6014_Hack_and_Tap_Install_27_Spline.pdf
@@matthew7972 If you disconnect the drive shaft from the rear axle you can slide the slip yoke out of the transfer case with your driveshaft attached. Once it is out you can see the end of the output shaft on the t-case. If it is drilled and tapped already you can try threading in a 3/8-16 bolt. Thread it in until it bottoms, mark the bolt with tape, then thread it back out to see how deep the threads are.
While it sounds sketchy, having the shaft turning really does make for a nice, clean cut, and it actually isn't that bad in practice (at least on the ground - on a lift like that, I think I'd pass... LOL).
I bought the jig tool and it works great, with only one gripe - the point is to be able to get a nice, straight hole in there, but that advantage kind of gets lost if you either freehand the alignment of the 1/4" pilot or drill it using the 5/16" hole in the jig. So I just went straight to the 5/16" so I could take full advantage of the jig. I found myself wishing the jig had a 1/4" hole instead, so I could use the jig for that and then just chase it freehand at 5/16".
Regardless, made for a nice, clean install on the 242 in my WJ. 🙂
Yeah, we have done them with the vehicle in gear, and it does work out pretty slick indeed, but we cannot recommend for liability reasons, you know?
Oh yeah, absolutely understand! I appreciate you guys putting these videos together - really helpful for someone considering a project. 🙂
I felt the same so I went to big R some areas it's called cal ranch or tsc all basically same store if you got a good hardware store they will have it also but not big box stores I bought a bronze bushing for under 3$ that was 5/16 od 1/4 id put it in the tool for pilot hole worked great
So easy!
@jbdollabill Yes, it is! This quick upgrade can easily be done in an afternoon.
I put it in drive with the key off use a starter bypass button to spin the shaft in drive while i chanfered it worked great
That's a creative solution!
Any reason you couldn't just put a socket on the front yoke and spin it with a drill (t-case in 4x4) while cutting the back shaft?
@vanblindguy4600 Great idea! With the transmission in neutral I think that would work very well!
you didnt show drilling out the back of the Yoke to accept the bolt..... or is the ones you sell pre drilled for that bolt?
@coachgeo The yoke we sell is predrilled to accept the bolt included in the kit.
Do you have a similar product for the NP231 in my wife's 94 ZJ? It's got a 4.0 in it, and I will need to know if there's any 'gotchas' if I switch from the stock D35 rear axle to a D44a from a 94 V8 Grand.
@JeepITguy The NP 231 in the ZJ should be very similar to the one in this video. I'm sure we have what you need to do the Hack n Tap on your 231. When in doubt, send us an email with pictures of your t-case and vehicle info and we'll be happy to help. tech@ironrockoffroad.com
If you're swapping rear axles from one ZJ to another, try to get the rear driveshaft too. Then you can test drive the Jeep with the new axle. You don't necessarily need to do the Hack n Tap when swapping axles, but I understand you might want to do it all at once. Honestly, the best way to go is to get the rear axle swapped into place and measure for your new driveshaft at ride height. A custom driveshaft isn't cheap and can't be returned.
@@IronRockOffRoad it has a 4" lift at present. Basically a F/R swap of the coil springs and a few other things. Have to replace the drivers side rear shaft on the D35, and I refuse to pay 300 bucks for a shaft for a weak axle. Going to put a D44a from similar year V8 ZJ in it, and truss it.
@JeepITguy Sounds like a good plan. The D44A with a truss will serve you very well.
Do you guys have this for the wj? I have a 242 transfer case. If you do I'm in!
Yes we have these for the WJ 242 in both 27 and 32 spine options.
@@IronRockOffRoad can you send me a link? I can't find 27 spline on your website...
@@danwall5010 www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/hack-n-tap-slip-yoke-eliminator-kit.html
@@IronRockOffRoad hell yeah man! Thanks! Keep them in stock please I gotta talk my wife into letting me buy this lol. I just spent $1200 on my jeep I might have to wait a month or two...
@@danwall5010 you betcha!
confused?? you mentioned possibly needing to grind/cut back of your yoke to give clearance for the dust shield (or in my part of the world... road salt and mud shield).... but when you screwed on the yoke... it appeard to be plennnty of room (mines NP242)
We're just saying IF you had interference between the yoke and that dust shield, you could simply cut it down. In this video we had room.
Ok this might be a dumb question do you but the double cardin joint on diff or t case it will fit either way
No worries. The double cardan joint goes at the transfer case.
@@IronRockOffRoad yep I figured that out from some photos on Google about 10 mins after I asked
@@jeremyhanna3852 Glad to hear it. We're always willing to help out if we can. 👍
Is this the same install for a 247 T-case ?
@matthew7972 I assume this is for your WJ? If so, we have seen some WJ 247 t-cases that are already drilled and tapped from the factory. If not, you will need a 5/16 carbide drill bit for the tap drill, also a 3/8 carbide drill bit to remove the hardened area before tapping. Then a standard high-speed steel tap can be used. This will also require spacer washers for proper seal alignment. The spacer washers go inside the new yoke to make it sit at the correct depth inside the t-case. You might need to source your own grade 8, 3/8" bolt to secure the yoke in place. The included bolt might not be the proper length.
@matthew7972 You can also check the Hack n Tap product listing on our website and instructions for more pictures and information.
Product listing:
www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/hack-n-tap-slip-yoke-eliminator-kit.html
Instructions:
www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/I6014_Hack_and_Tap_Install_27_Spline.pdf
@@IronRockOffRoad yes this is for my 2001 jeep WJ limited edition; 247 t-case Quadra drive. How do I know it’s already drilled and tapped?
@@matthew7972 If you disconnect the drive shaft from the rear axle you can slide the slip yoke out of the transfer case with your driveshaft attached. Once it is out you can see the end of the output shaft on the t-case. If it is drilled and tapped already you can try threading in a 3/8-16 bolt. Thread it in until it bottoms, mark the bolt with tape, then thread it back out to see how deep the threads are.