It was good seeing how calmly you handled that, I think personally I would have gone to the C4 in the desert solution much sooner! Congrats on finally getting that differential out.
Most axle shafts we made were 4140 chrome moly or 1090 high carbon stock plus a hardening process that carbide blade was your best bet, nice job staying with it. Nothing like the satisfaction one gets when you overcome resistance.
Me too. Sometimes Joe makes work for himself when he tries to "save time" and take shortcuts. But if it was fast & easy, there would be no movie clip I suppose.
Cutting it forced you to replace that splined input part in transfer case which needed to be replaced anyway ... best possible outcome. And a great lesson in "No quitting, just find a way" ...
Well I'm about 5 months late. These CV axles are held by circlips and you have to "feel" they're way out while turning the axle. No amount of heat will help. And if the circlips isn't reinstalled the inner spline will wear out prematurely, with the circlips installed they will never wear. Just some advice, I really like your videos they are about bikes I used to ride and it's great to see you bring them back to life.
It's been a while since I did this, but I seem to remember I used 2 pry bars to get the hard ones out. With 2 pry bars on opposite sides you're pulling it straight out instead of forcing it a little sideways.
When he had that thing under pressure in the press am I the only on who was yellin "heat". It doesn't have to be cherry red, a few 100 degrees can make a huge difference.
Yeah we get a lot of electrolysis on equipment and have had a lot of good luck using this method I already commented before I saw this post. All I had was one of those weed burner propane torch just keep it moving and wait for the pop
I agree with another comment that suggested that a combination bike/quad lift would make a lot of sense and make life more enjoyable and easier on you.
Nice job staying patient! I've worked on a few of these similar models and had some stubborn axles too. I've had luck using vice grips on a bigger slide hammer. Also, it looks like someone has been in the front diff before. There is supposed to be a roll pin that you have to drive out on the prop shaft going into the front diff. Someone did you a favor and replaced that with a bolt. Those roll pins can be a bear too! Also, the roller cage inside the diff looked to have been upgraded to aluminum. From factory they are plastic and is a common failure point. Best of luck!
I did 2 front diffs on Kawi Brute Force 750s this time last year. Whole front end and steering shaft needed to be removed to bring the diff up and out of the frame. Diffs were absolutely trashed from water intrusion. One even split the case from ice forming. All fixed now. Don’t care to do either again.
Consider picking up the OTC air hammer that is referred to here on You Tube as Big Nasty. If you had one you may have been able to get that shaft driven out. It is one of the best tool purchases I have ever made.
Hey ive been å Polaris mechanic for 5-6 years next time if ur stuck onnold machines you can ask me if u want like that cv Axel u use 2-3 chisels pry it out without injuring the seal works everytine when they stuck and just Ole and trusted hard done so many over the years and thats the best way use small first then bigger then ggest inn the end on 3 sides with a hammer dont hammer 1 inn too much b4 you have all inn becouse that pressure is the same as u taking it out and using a press. Aswell as that whole Axel u where not getting off just push it inn and pull hard out if that dosent work unuse the chisel aswell. Hope that helps you in the future and saves i from hours of hours of work and injurys hehe.
Impressive ! I love that you follow up on these issues. I'd be too lazy /rushed and probably buy new part set ! Yet, seeing how you do, does show we can get things done ! Thanks and kuddos !
Morning Jess /John Great video, van looks really good, worked out really well. On the weigh in John, was you having a cheeky biscuit on the passenger seat. Please could I request that on tool talk Tuesday, that you could briefly talk about your bikes and when would you venture out on a tour, have a great weekend the pair. Cheers Andy you
I was cringing when you were pulling on the good cv axle and the joint inside the boot was popping in and out. The only thing holding that together was the aged rubber boot. Prying normally hasn't worked for me. What I've always had to do is get a long curved bar and whack it on the back of the cv axle to pop it out. Sometimes there's just no room though and your solution worked.
I have removed stubborn inner joints by welding 2 big nuts opposite each other or 3 in a triangular pattern then use bolt of the same thread to pull it out last one i did came of with a big bang but worked a treat
I've seen this happen on car and truck spindles. Due to improper lubrication, the axel shaft got so hot that it welded itself to the bearing. And judging by the oil that came out of the differential, that's probably what happened.
Oh buddy have I been there. I've owned many old 4 wheelers and I know you're struggle. This is why when I bought my last Wheeler brand new after about 6 months I took the axles out and put Auntie seize in the axles and I'm really glad I did Was totally dry and already starting to rust. It was a lot of work but not near as much work as it would be in 10 years. It still blows my mind how those retaining clips can make it so hard to come out. I do have a trick on getting them out but I would have to show you it's way too hard to explain. But it does involve the slide hammer vice grips and drilling a few holes. If anybody knows something better to put in there that won't dry up I would like to know.
14:30 at this point, id be hooking something up to whatever is left of the CV axle and using another quad to drive away from it as fast as possible. you have so much patience
Should buy the driveshaft pinion bearing, seal, pin and bushing kit too. You needed to axle puller attachment and a heavier slide hammer. Could have rented it from Advance Auto. The front diff needed a full rebuild anyways. I did this all last year on my 2017 Sportsman 450. Including front wheel bearings, lower ball joints, tie rod ends and front driveshaft U joints.
You have to push the cv axle in and pull the inner part out for it to release kinda like a impact drill works with releasing bits I have struggled with this as well
When using a slide hammer if you tie a nylon lifting strap to the weight you can really whip that weight back and forth using the strap and it saves your hand
We had the same thing happen on a 02 sportsman 700 replaced the whole front differential it was $350 and we put new axles in it had a 05 800 that when the front axle finally did come out so did a cloud of rust
U did remove the roll pin out of the axle right? I may be mistaken BUT all polaris 4x4 drivelines I've redone. Unless missing or modified most of those Bastards end up having a small roll pin pressed into the ends of the shafts and u gotta kcock em out or drill em out in order to slide them apart
@@ronalddaub9740 How is that false? On this year of Polaris 400 there is a pin in the propshaft and circlips on the axles. I run an ATV repair shop, I pull a Polaris axle at least once a week and remove a prop shaft every few weeks.
you need 2 pry bars between differential and axles on opposite sides then pry on one side fist then the other. they like to come out alittle sideways not straight if that makes sense.
Patience, the King of virtues. Determination, the grease in the cogs. A challenge, the area where we learn most about ourselves, and the part you remember most.
I Would not have the patience you had trying to get that shaft apart, WOW good job and perseverance. The manufacturer should not have designed it that way, a simple circular clip like whats on most CV's in autos would have been sufficient and easily removed and replaced, what were they thinking??? So much for quick axle change out in the trails lol.
Joe I used that exact same belt on one of my Polaris snowmobiles and it didn't last an hour , some of the four-wheelers take the same belt as the snowmobiles I would stick with Polaris belts when it comes to the ATVs
Tuning fork and a crow bar g One of the forks they use for changing tires Use the crowbar to pry it out far enough to get the fork in the. Drive the fork in
I know hindsight is 20/20 but in the future when you take multiple bolts out of a flange it helps to clean/lube them and reinstall the other ones as you get near the end. This keeps the flange flat and snug and doesnt bind up the last bolt or two.
BTW, live your videos. You are an awesome diagnostician. I would love to see a video showing how you keep track of of the nots, bolts, etc as you disassemble. Also, get a windproof mic
Try drilling a hole from top to bottom on the axle and adding a good size bolt then use a come along to pop it out. Had plenty of guys I knew had to do it this way.
I didn’t think it would last either , I figured it would give up fast but it kicked some butt instead. Maybe try torching other axle and heat the old grease than pop the axle since your putting new seals and axles in it anyways. Definitely worth the try . Great videos I haven’t missed one in a long time .
An easier way to remove that CV Axle Cup is to get (2) Grade 8 Fender Washers, stack, and weld them together, then weld a Grade 8 (5/16) or bigger Nut onto the Washers as well. The bigger the thread the better. Now take those Washers, and weld them onto the CV Axle Cup with the Nut facing out. Next remove the Wheel Hub, and slide a piece of All Thread through, and thread it into the Washers. Now take (2) more Grade 8 Fender Washers, and put them on the outside of the Wheel Bearing Race, then thread another Grade 8 Nut onto the All Thread on the Hub side. Now let that impact rip. It'll either come off, or the Home Made Puller will explode lol. I've got many stuck Axle Cup's out this way!
Oooooo I got chills before you even showed your hand.... when a man makes a chilly sucking noise you know he did a good one 😂😅 What a nightmare axles can be 😢
Man Joe it's CRAZY how stubborn these things are being, there must be something missing here.. I'm 15 minutes in and wth man.. on my Honda (van but still same thing) there's a weird washer in there and you have to have it PERFECTLY aligned to get the axle out, it's ANNOYING but man it takes no more than a couple minutes of turning it to get it right.. this, THIS is crazy!!
WHY, dont you use heat? that is what you are missing. put a torch or MAP gas burner on things that are stuck, this makes the metal expand. ok? God bless you, love the vids.
Maybe the secondary pulley can be adjusted like on snowmobiles, to get the belt as high in the pulley as possible, and down as low as possible in the primary.
You’re doing it the wrong way and the hard way lol You need to do a heat quench. Get it right red hot with a torch. Then Shockett with cold water. That will break the rust free. Do it in my shop quite often. Sometimes you don’t have a choice. You will have to replace your bearings and seals but you will have to buy now anyway.
Put anti-seize on the splines when you put it back together. It won't melt like grease and will make the next time much smoother.
It was good seeing how calmly you handled that, I think personally I would have gone to the C4 in the desert solution much sooner! Congrats on finally getting that differential out.
I'd have no patience, using a match or sledgehammer after 20 minutes
Something tells me off camera was a whole different story hehe.
@@hycron1234lmao
Most axle shafts we made were 4140 chrome moly or 1090 high carbon stock plus a hardening process that carbide blade was your best bet, nice job staying with it. Nothing like the satisfaction one gets when you overcome resistance.
Your never give up attitude is a thing to behold. Though your reluctance to completly remove items that are in your way is a bit qustionable. 😀
I was thinking "Just remove the whole front" 😄
Me too. Sometimes Joe makes work for himself when he tries to "save time" and take shortcuts. But if it was fast & easy, there would be no movie clip I suppose.
exactly that... i kept thinking "take the plow off and get it out of the way"
True patience was shown. What a nightmare but paid off in the end.👍
Cutting it forced you to replace that splined input part in transfer case which needed to be replaced anyway ... best possible outcome. And a great lesson in "No quitting, just find a way" ...
Smart, very smart. You have the patience of a surgeon! I think my neighbors would have abandoned there home….lol great work!
Well I'm about 5 months late. These CV axles are held by circlips and you have to "feel" they're way out while turning the axle. No amount of heat will help. And if the circlips isn't reinstalled the inner spline will wear out prematurely, with the circlips installed they will never wear. Just some advice, I really like your videos they are about bikes I used to ride and it's great to see you bring them back to life.
14:22 yelling take the boot off so you can see 😂
It's been a while since I did this, but I seem to remember I used 2 pry bars to get the hard ones out. With 2 pry bars on opposite sides you're pulling it straight out instead of forcing it a little sideways.
When he had that thing under pressure in the press am I the only on who was yellin "heat".
It doesn't have to be cherry red, a few 100 degrees can make a huge difference.
No you were not, map torch used on that collar under pressure until it makes the big pop and your done.
Yeah we get a lot of electrolysis on equipment and have had a lot of good luck using this method I already commented before I saw this post. All I had was one of those weed burner propane torch just keep it moving and wait for the pop
As a blacksmith I was shouting the same thing at my screen. Even a blowtorch on the outside of the drum would probably have expanded it enough 😮
I agree with another comment that suggested that a combination bike/quad lift would make a lot of sense and make life more enjoyable and easier on you.
Nice job staying patient! I've worked on a few of these similar models and had some stubborn axles too. I've had luck using vice grips on a bigger slide hammer. Also, it looks like someone has been in the front diff before. There is supposed to be a roll pin that you have to drive out on the prop shaft going into the front diff. Someone did you a favor and replaced that with a bolt. Those roll pins can be a bear too! Also, the roller cage inside the diff looked to have been upgraded to aluminum. From factory they are plastic and is a common failure point. Best of luck!
I did 2 front diffs on Kawi Brute Force 750s this time last year. Whole front end and steering shaft needed to be removed to bring the diff up and out of the frame. Diffs were absolutely trashed from water intrusion. One even split the case from ice forming. All fixed now. Don’t care to do either again.
Not a fun job
Definitely not anything I would have tried. Excellent work young man.
Kudos to you young man. You are undoubtedly fearless.
Consider picking up the OTC air hammer that is referred to here on You Tube as Big Nasty. If you had one you may have been able to get that shaft driven out. It is one of the best tool purchases I have ever made.
Hey ive been å Polaris mechanic for 5-6 years next time if ur stuck onnold machines you can ask me if u want like that cv Axel u use 2-3 chisels pry it out without injuring the seal works everytine when they stuck and just Ole and trusted hard done so many over the years and thats the best way use small first then bigger then ggest inn the end on 3 sides with a hammer dont hammer 1 inn too much b4 you have all inn becouse that pressure is the same as u taking it out and using a press. Aswell as that whole Axel u where not getting off just push it inn and pull hard out if that dosent work unuse the chisel aswell. Hope that helps you in the future and saves i from hours of hours of work and injurys hehe.
Impressive ! I love that you follow up on these issues. I'd be too lazy /rushed and probably buy new part set ! Yet, seeing how you do, does show we can get things done ! Thanks and kuddos !
Morning Jess /John
Great video, van looks really good, worked out really well.
On the weigh in John, was you having a cheeky biscuit on the passenger seat.
Please could I request that on tool talk Tuesday, that you could briefly talk about your bikes and when would you venture out on a tour, have a great weekend the pair. Cheers Andy you
I was cringing when you were pulling on the good cv axle and the joint inside the boot was popping in and out. The only thing holding that together was the aged rubber boot. Prying normally hasn't worked for me. What I've always had to do is get a long curved bar and whack it on the back of the cv axle to pop it out. Sometimes there's just no room though and your solution worked.
I've always found using a pickle fork pushing it in the Gap and then tapping against it sideways for the 3 lb Hammer lightly seems to work the best
I have removed stubborn inner joints by welding 2 big nuts opposite each other or 3 in a triangular pattern then use bolt of the same thread to pull it out last one i did came of with a big bang but worked a treat
How frustrating. You have a lot more patience than I would ever have.
I usually cut holes in CV cups.. use a chain and wrap other end of chain around 10lb sledge. And swing strait.. they will come out every time.
That turned into a big ole can of worms! Perseverance and determination will finish the job. Well done!
I had the same problem last year with the axle, luckily the press got it.
I've seen this happen on car and truck spindles.
Due to improper lubrication, the axel shaft got so hot that it welded itself to the bearing.
And judging by the oil that came out of the differential, that's probably what happened.
Thanks for posting, your content is a wealth of knowledge. Just wanted to say thank you!
Oh buddy have I been there. I've owned many old 4 wheelers and I know you're struggle. This is why when I bought my last Wheeler brand new after about 6 months I took the axles out and put Auntie seize in the axles and I'm really glad I did Was totally dry and already starting to rust. It was a lot of work but not near as much work as it would be in 10 years. It still blows my mind how those retaining clips can make it so hard to come out. I do have a trick on getting them out but I would have to show you it's way too hard to explain. But it does involve the slide hammer vice grips and drilling a few holes. If anybody knows something better to put in there that won't dry up I would like to know.
That was a pain in the butt.Well done on removing it without breaking the casing.
14:30 at this point, id be hooking something up to whatever is left of the CV axle and using another quad to drive away from it as fast as possible. you have so much patience
I admire the patience and tenacity a lot of guys would've just sold the problem to the next guy.
Should buy the driveshaft pinion bearing, seal, pin and bushing kit too. You needed to axle puller attachment and a heavier slide hammer. Could have rented it from Advance Auto. The front diff needed a full rebuild anyways. I did this all last year on my 2017 Sportsman 450. Including front wheel bearings, lower ball joints, tie rod ends and front driveshaft U joints.
Joe. I felt your pain removing that. Wowww what a ngtmare. Glad you never gave up
You have to push the cv axle in and pull the inner part out for it to release kinda like a impact drill works with releasing bits I have struggled with this as well
When using a slide hammer if you tie a nylon lifting strap to the weight you can really whip that weight back and forth using the strap and it saves your hand
I have to give you props for keeping it G-rated!!!
Hey been watching your channel since the original Honda 400 video at your folks house keep up the great videos
Surely heat would have helped?
Well done for sorting it anyway, always enjoy your vids
Ive usd that blade to cut a swingarm blt on a 400ex, a lifesaver for sure.
What an absolute pain that was! Fairplay sticking at it though and getting it out Joe...Off to watch the next video :D
We had the same thing happen on a 02 sportsman 700 replaced the whole front differential it was $350 and we put new axles in it had a 05 800 that when the front axle finally did come out so did a cloud of rust
U did remove the roll pin out of the axle right? I may be mistaken BUT all polaris 4x4 drivelines I've redone. Unless missing or modified most of those Bastards end up having a small roll pin pressed into the ends of the shafts and u gotta kcock em out or drill em out in order to slide them apart
That only applies to the prop shafts. The axles are held by a captive circlip near the end of the axle stub.
A so called mechanic that will not use heat.😂
@@JoshuaJonahthat's absolutely false information
@@ronalddaub9740 How is that false? On this year of Polaris 400 there is a pin in the propshaft and circlips on the axles. I run an ATV repair shop, I pull a Polaris axle at least once a week and remove a prop shaft every few weeks.
I thought the same 😅
I really hope I don't have this problem when I work on my 500's diff.
I have been looking forward to this video
Try PB Blaster penetrating oil. Soak the seized parts. Its amazing. Great video. Cheers bro,,,
Dang! That was a tough one! Good work getting it out!
Wow. I have a polaris, but have never had an axle problem. After watching your video. I hope I never do!🤞
you need 2 pry bars between differential and axles on opposite sides then pry on one side fist then the other. they like to come out alittle sideways not straight if that makes sense.
Just had a convo with the wife about why watching you break out the sawzall is better than watching Mr. Beast! Love the persistence!
Patience, the King of virtues. Determination, the grease in the cogs. A challenge, the area where we learn most about ourselves, and the part you remember most.
I love your videos but it's insane how much work you're putting into that
Belts don't stretch they just wear thin on the side. You've come along way I admire the channel
I Would not have the patience you had trying to get that shaft apart, WOW good job and perseverance. The manufacturer should not have designed it that way, a simple circular clip like whats on most CV's in autos would have been sufficient and easily removed and replaced, what were they thinking??? So much for quick axle change out in the trails lol.
Man i love my Sportsman. Thing is a workhorse. I dont use it much, but it does everything we need it too, like tow vehicles when they dont run 😅
Slide hammer: one of my most valuable tools. When the job calls for it, nothing else will do
You should do some more snowmobile videos i love all of your videos keep up the good work
Joe I used that exact same belt on one of my Polaris snowmobiles and it didn't last an hour , some of the four-wheelers take the same belt as the snowmobiles I would stick with Polaris belts when it comes to the ATVs
That’s some serious perseverance right there! 👏
Tuning fork and a crow bar g
One of the forks they use for changing tires
Use the crowbar to pry it out far enough to get the fork in the. Drive the fork in
This is how my jobs usually go 😂😂😂😂
Now, every time I work and get to a spot where I can’t stop, I hear a “piano riff” in the shop😂😂😂😂😂
Patience and persistence indeed, wow!
Joe, I’ve milled out the shaft with carbide mill and once material is removed the spline punches out easily.
Dude! Crazy hard work! But it's a living!
Nice to see somebody who knows what they are doing, or can figure things out, versus me "where does this go?"
Holy crap. I would have been cussing that thing to next week! One thing you might have tried is putting some heat on that housing from the inside.
I know hindsight is 20/20 but in the future when you take multiple bolts out of a flange it helps to clean/lube them and reinstall the other ones as you get near the end. This keeps the flange flat and snug and doesnt bind up the last bolt or two.
BTW, live your videos. You are an awesome diagnostician. I would love to see a video showing how you keep track of of the nots, bolts, etc as you disassemble. Also, get a windproof mic
Should just get a new diff and another new axle and just be done with it😊
Really liked that video, it's like every project I do, it goes like this. Real legit.
You can get good belts and Napa auto parts store.
Try drilling a hole from top to bottom on the axle and adding a good size bolt then use a come along to pop it out. Had plenty of guys I knew had to do it this way.
Nice job saving the case Joe.
I honestly did not see that blade cutting through that steel. I'm impressed.
I had zero hope for that sawzall blade making it.
I was surprised as well
I didn’t think it would last either , I figured it would give up fast but it kicked some butt instead.
Maybe try torching other axle and heat the old grease than pop the axle since your putting new seals and axles in it anyways. Definitely worth the try . Great videos I haven’t missed one in a long time .
Well done Joe.
That was a nightmare. You can see why the previous owner have up.
An easier way to remove that CV Axle Cup is to get (2) Grade 8 Fender Washers, stack, and weld them together, then weld a Grade 8 (5/16) or bigger Nut onto the Washers as well. The bigger the thread the better. Now take those Washers, and weld them onto the CV Axle Cup with the Nut facing out. Next remove the Wheel Hub, and slide a piece of All Thread through, and thread it into the Washers. Now take (2) more Grade 8 Fender Washers, and put them on the outside of the Wheel Bearing Race, then thread another Grade 8 Nut onto the All Thread on the Hub side. Now let that impact rip. It'll either come off, or the Home Made Puller will explode lol. I've got many stuck Axle Cup's out this way!
Oooooo I got chills before you even showed your hand.... when a man makes a chilly sucking noise you know he did a good one 😂😅
What a nightmare axles can be 😢
A exercise in determination! Well done!!
Man Joe it's CRAZY how stubborn these things are being, there must be something missing here.. I'm 15 minutes in and wth man.. on my Honda (van but still same thing) there's a weird washer in there and you have to have it PERFECTLY aligned to get the axle out, it's ANNOYING but man it takes no more than a couple minutes of turning it to get it right.. this, THIS is crazy!!
Ive had this issue before drilled two holes in the axle opposite each other and pur a chain through it
I'd be keen if you started selling merch mate. Love your videos here in Australia.
Great job that is one way to remove it would never thought of that that way I like watching you don't give up
WHY, dont you use heat? that is what you are missing. put a torch or MAP gas burner on things that are stuck, this makes the metal expand. ok? God bless you, love the vids.
Nice video! I always try the hardest job first. I have no patience! Hats off!
This one made you work for it. Big problem makes good videos.
When you're hand was pinched by the slide hammer, the thought of it instantly made my hand hurt lol.
dude those things can hurt ya good
A balljoint pickle fork may help also with pulling those axles.
I couldn't do it. I think about sinking my boat if my line doesn't go through the line tie on a jig the first time. Good job.
Maybe the secondary pulley can be adjusted like on snowmobiles, to get the belt as high in the pulley as possible, and down as low as possible in the primary.
Camarata would have the bike chained to a tree and a welded
chain to CV and a Cummins diesel in 2nd gear on the other end .
I can't believe it was that much of a pain in the but to get apart I definitely would put something on so it doesn't happen again
To vintage, I think what the problem is, the quote didn't get vinny's approval
VINN!
Help!!
We’re are you😅
I'm mechanically inclined like you and vinny
A friend with a machine shop would be helpful. A lot of good suggestions here but, isn't there a service/disassembly manual somewhere?
I use axle poppers and ball joint separator to get cv axles out
Great p;project, I am looking into one - winter plowing - why buy new when gently used will do
I wonder if it's has splines that slide in and then turn to lock in?
There isna circlip that holds the shaft in. Usually you can just pull the shaft enough to get by the clip. This one was stuck.
@@2vintage yeah I noticed after you cut it off it was like welded together with rust and corrosion.
Just for fun. Do a 'heat it test' on the part you cut off. See if you can get that shafts piece out with heat, plus hammering it or pressing it out.
You’re doing it the wrong way and the hard way lol
You need to do a heat quench.
Get it right red hot with a torch. Then Shockett with cold water. That will break the rust free. Do it in my shop quite often. Sometimes you don’t have a choice. You will have to replace your bearings and seals but you will have to buy now anyway.
Have to say at this point i would probably have a few choice words coming out lol good job joe