This winter you got a really appreciate that they'll be in that portion though retainer back into the engine that works properly it holds a prime and they will start faster
Just a quick note, one of the lights you're using causes a waterfall effect; likely because it is driven by PWM (pulse width modulation, think turning it off and on at high frequencies) that your camera is picking up. Naked eye doesn't see that. I'll assume it is an LED light source. You should get yourself a few lights that are designed for on camera use. They wont cause flickering, strobing, or waterfalling like some others do.
It was really Nice to see Matt again Helping you on Orwell. Steve You are Not Fat Trust Me I've seen some Fat people lol. Awesome video as always Love these New Video's glad you are doing them
That fitting is called an ORB which is used in hydraulics and if you can get mosquito coils for your shop they really work just light them, wait a few minutes and then you can get to work.
Color of a simple part like the o rings lets them tell at a glance if you are using cat or 3rd party parts when you bring them in for warranty. It was ford that started this practice back in ww2 when they and 2 other companies had the Jeep contracts Ford only wanted to have to pay on ford parts so marked them with a F on them from the largest parts all the way down to individual nuts and bolts. Not sure what the AF in the item numbers is but it could be a maker or a plant depending on how they have things setup as few companies make 100% of what they use like YKK makes the majority of zippers in the world letting companies by them so they don't need the machining to do it.
Old video but did it ever solved your prime problem ? Having the same issue of loosing prime but it’s happening within 30 mins of truck being shut off. Tried new primer pump and checked all the fuel lines but no luck
The part you keep calling a regulator isn't a regulator, but a check valve. The check valve keeps the fuel pump from losing prime when the engine is shut off. Please start using a torque wrench for the installation of these components. Besides the bolts having a maximum torque specification, it keeps from generating a point load around the fastener, thinning out the gasket.
My question is when got ready to start it did you prime it with the hand pump on top or did you try to crank it with the starter fluid? I'm asking because I have to do this tomorrow thanks for any help you can give me and this is a nice video
A/F means asbestos free. You messed up changing your fuel return fitting. It has a one mm orifice to allow air out of the pump and to keep fuel temp down. If it's not plugged no need to change it. If you put a number four return line they are small and they can implode over time. Since this system has no relief valve, if the return line implodes you will blow the fuel filter off or blow out a check valve in your FTP. I would have removed the adapters and installed a number six line back to tank. Never seen a number six implode. Also a number four if implodes can cause a hard starting problem. On your hand priming pump. Most people don't use it anyway, they prefill their fuel filters. If you do put fuel in small holes, not the large one. Anyway I recommend to put a 6N4414 on the base. Your hand priming pump check valves are being worn out with flow. Keep the pump, gasket and some tools in your cab and install it when you need it. Then take it back off. On your supply fitting on your FTP, the 7FB's had all those fittings to get to a number eight or ten supply line. I look up a later engine and install a one piece elbow. Your FTP, I rebuild them takes thirty minutes. The cover on the side, that valve is bad about working loose. I put a 2S8398 spring to keep it in place. Not sure if your reman pump still does this. Also you can increase your fuel psi by adding a spring out of a 3406 A FRC and get roughly ten psi more, if you rebuild it. I ask my customers if they want more psi first.
Steve... was thinking of the jacks on the cabovers [a dangerous thing I know]. Why not take a jack kit from a dump trailer that's good for up to 5 ton and just adapt it to heave the cab up and down. Even just get the pump part and the electronics and get the appropriate sized cylinder. But I'm guessing if you position on of these right it'd dip and untip the cab on the Pete's or any other cabover at the push of a button. Check this particular kit out for repairs on one of these dump trailers ------> ruclips.net/video/i6OfoU_XhZo/видео.html
Glad to see you and Matt working on Orwell teaching him how to do the maintenance and repairs.
Good morning Matt and Steve good luck with Orwell seeyall. Soon
This winter you got a really appreciate that they'll be in that portion though retainer back into the engine that works properly it holds a prime and they will start faster
Just a quick note, one of the lights you're using causes a waterfall effect; likely because it is driven by PWM (pulse width modulation, think turning it off and on at high frequencies) that your camera is picking up. Naked eye doesn't see that. I'll assume it is an LED light source. You should get yourself a few lights that are designed for on camera use. They wont cause flickering, strobing, or waterfalling like some others do.
Had a cat c13 kept losing prime. Ended up being that primer button. Easy job but the troubleshooting steps were long lol. Good work
It was really Nice to see Matt again Helping you on Orwell. Steve You are Not Fat Trust Me I've seen some Fat people lol. Awesome video as always Love these New Video's glad you are doing them
not fat? you serious? are you deaf? you didn't hear him huffing and puffing and trying to blow the house down? easy on the ass kissing there buddy
That fitting is called an ORB which is used in hydraulics and if you can get mosquito coils for your shop they really work just light them, wait a few minutes and then you can get to work.
Don’t throw the blue plugs away they will come in hand when on the road. Have a great Holidays with family and friends too God Bless and be safe too
Experienced mechanics know where "half a turn before it breaks" is.
Right before you hear the pop and you start cussing
Red o-rings are easier to find when you drop them.
As a certified cat technician, u crossed all the t’s and dotted all the i
Color of a simple part like the o rings lets them tell at a glance if you are using cat or 3rd party parts when you bring them in for warranty. It was ford that started this practice back in ww2 when they and 2 other companies had the Jeep contracts Ford only wanted to have to pay on ford parts so marked them with a F on them from the largest parts all the way down to individual nuts and bolts.
Not sure what the AF in the item numbers is but it could be a maker or a plant depending on how they have things setup as few companies make 100% of what they use like YKK makes the majority of zippers in the world letting companies by them so they don't need the machining to do it.
Since your rig is in the shop have that fine son of yours paint those Wheels
Old video but did it ever solved your prime problem ? Having the same issue of loosing prime but it’s happening within 30 mins of truck being shut off. Tried new primer pump and checked all the fuel lines but no luck
I bet it can be put on backwards. Stephen Hawking Quote: “When something is made idiot proof, they will just make better idiots.”
Just had to get my low fuel pump replaced looked pretty simple to have done myself. 🤦🏽♂️.
The part you keep calling a regulator isn't a regulator, but a check valve. The check valve keeps the fuel pump from losing prime when the engine is shut off.
Please start using a torque wrench for the installation of these components. Besides the bolts having a maximum torque specification, it keeps from generating a point load around the fastener, thinning out the gasket.
What up Steve
0:21 LOL
My question is when got ready to start it did you prime it with the hand pump on top or did you try to crank it with the starter fluid? I'm asking because I have to do this tomorrow thanks for any help you can give me and this is a nice video
What happened to the beast of the east 12v71?? Feed my need to know!
A mechanic told me years ago not to steam clean under the hood, fearing doing damage. What do you think?
I don’t know if it’s my phone but I was noticing horizontal flickering in the video. Not sure if it’s the lighting or camera settings or my phone.
It's the frame rate of my camera and my portable lights
Was your engine having a miss do to the pump
Kept loosing its prime. Shut off or at idle.
A/F means asbestos free. You messed up changing your fuel return fitting. It has a one mm orifice to allow air out of the pump and to keep fuel temp down. If it's not plugged no need to change it. If you put a number four return line they are small and they can implode over time. Since this system has no relief valve, if the return line implodes you will blow the fuel filter off or blow out a check valve in your FTP. I would have removed the adapters and installed a number six line back to tank. Never seen a number six implode. Also a number four if implodes can cause a hard starting problem. On your hand priming pump. Most people don't use it anyway, they prefill their fuel filters. If you do put fuel in small holes, not the large one. Anyway I recommend to put a 6N4414 on the base. Your hand priming pump check valves are being worn out with flow. Keep the pump, gasket and some tools in your cab and install it when you need it. Then take it back off. On your supply fitting on your FTP, the 7FB's had all those fittings to get to a number eight or ten supply line. I look up a later engine and install a one piece elbow. Your FTP, I rebuild them takes thirty minutes. The cover on the side, that valve is bad about working loose. I put a 2S8398 spring to keep it in place. Not sure if your reman pump still does this. Also you can increase your fuel psi by adding a spring out of a 3406 A FRC and get roughly ten psi more, if you rebuild it. I ask my customers if they want more psi first.
So when your son's going to get a 18-wheeler
Steve... was thinking of the jacks on the cabovers [a dangerous thing I know]. Why not take a jack kit from a dump trailer that's good for up to 5 ton and just adapt it to heave the cab up and down. Even just get the pump part and the electronics and get the appropriate sized cylinder. But I'm guessing if you position on of these right it'd dip and untip the cab on the Pete's or any other cabover at the push of a button. Check this particular kit out for repairs on one of these dump trailers ------> ruclips.net/video/i6OfoU_XhZo/видео.html
1st
good morning
😂😂😂😂😆😆😆
Like 666 hell yeah 🤭