Good question and I'm not really sure why I did it that way other than I wanted it all kinda hidden. I've found however, with the battery in the nose it balances weight nice.
There are a large variety of hull caps online. This one is 6". The trolling motor is a 36 lbs thrust Newport Vessels. The battery is a 40 Amp hour Lithium Iron. I got it all from Amazon.
The hatch I added in the back works well to catch the cables, if you feed them from the front. The bicycle brake cable sheathing is pretty easy to feed back since it's semi firm.
Is that an 8" hatch on the back? Also did the grooves in the tankwell create any problems/challenges getting it water tight? Looks like you used marine silicon or similar?
While I have you - a few additional questions: Any changes/improvements you would have made to any of your mods after using it a while? Especially interested in the transom for the trolling motor and your steering system. What's the board for in the hull? What part is the battery connectors on the rear? How's the run time on your trolling motor with that battery? I like your pulley for pulling the motor up - do you have a way of releasing it while on the water or do you have to get to land to drop it back down if raised?
6" hatch and I used some rubber pieces to fill in the grooves before applying silicon and tightening up the screws. It can be tricky to get it all together but it's water tight.
@@seanodonnell4601 The only thing I have found that I would change and will be doing soon is more solid rivets by the peddles. Where the cables come out. When I push a peddle hard, the rivets sometimes pop out. They are holding well enough on the cable housing but they slip out of the holes… sometimes. The transom is solid and worked out great. One thing I am not sure I covered in this video is the the back of the yak is at an angle. I cut and trimmed a piece of the cutting board to sit between the yak and the transom mount to bring the one side up so it would be level. The transom mount is strong enough to lift the boat with and I use it as a handle for moving around. I think the leveling of it is shown better on my more detailed walkthrough.
@@seanodonnell4601 The board inside the hull gives the transom mount something stronger to attach to. I do not think a single layer of plastic would be a solid enough mounting location for a transom. The connectors on the back are auto SAE commenters. I have been out for hours at a time and not drained the battery yet. Math says I should get about an hour and a half at full throttle. I'm certainly getting more but I am also usually at lower speeds. The pulley to pull out the motor has been very handy. If the motor gets weeds in it etc, I pull it up and run at full throttle and it usually clears it well. I have a ring on the side that I can attach that line to if I want to keep the motor up for paddle through Lilly pads to avoid the entanglement. I can pull it out or drop it down while on the water easy enough. I hope this helps and thank you for all of your comments.
![Eminem - Like My Shit [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vx_IMvFkrfA/mqdefault.jpg)
Very impressive sir. You should make a video of when you take her out. Maybe catch a few.
I bet I had more fun making it than you will watching. ;) Link added to the description.
Done and posted, in fact I have a couple now.
@@SciStuff I will watch it right now
Check your state dmv to see if you have to register it if you put on a motor. In California you do.
Yes, you have to here in Minnesota as well. I'm registered. You can see my 2024 stickers on the sides.
Maybe he thought you were a racing kayak and your kayak was number 24😂😂😂😂@@SciStuff
@@RoughRaiders13 😂🤣
Nice job by the way!!
Thanks, I can't wait to do it on another kayak so that I can stop towing my friends to all the good spots. ;)
@@SciStuff I live 12 miles to lake superior, and looking to go for the browns in erly October.
@@johnanderson8705 I'm about 90 miles away and it's on my list for next year.
@@SciStuff let me know next year, I'm your hucklebarry
Very cool mods! Curious, why run the electronics all the way to the front instead of just leaving the battery in the back well in a box?
Good question and I'm not really sure why I did it that way other than I wanted it all kinda hidden. I've found however, with the battery in the nose it balances weight nice.
I'm sure it helps balance it though.
Where did you get the cover cap for access for the rear?, and how many lbs motor. and batt??
There are a large variety of hull caps online. This one is 6". The trolling motor is a 36 lbs thrust Newport Vessels. The battery is a 40 Amp hour Lithium Iron. I got it all from Amazon.
How do you feed the steering cable Al the way through? Or is it a raceway for it
The hatch I added in the back works well to catch the cables, if you feed them from the front. The bicycle brake cable sheathing is pretty easy to feed back since it's semi firm.
Is that an 8" hatch on the back? Also did the grooves in the tankwell create any problems/challenges getting it water tight? Looks like you used marine silicon or similar?
While I have you - a few additional questions: Any changes/improvements you would have made to any of your mods after using it a while? Especially interested in the transom for the trolling motor and your steering system. What's the board for in the hull? What part is the battery connectors on the rear? How's the run time on your trolling motor with that battery? I like your pulley for pulling the motor up - do you have a way of releasing it while on the water or do you have to get to land to drop it back down if raised?
6" hatch and I used some rubber pieces to fill in the grooves before applying silicon and tightening up the screws. It can be tricky to get it all together but it's water tight.
@@SciStuff pls see other
Question
@@seanodonnell4601 The only thing I have found that I would change and will be doing soon is more solid rivets by the peddles. Where the cables come out. When I push a peddle hard, the rivets sometimes pop out. They are holding well enough on the cable housing but they slip out of the holes… sometimes. The transom is solid and worked out great. One thing I am not sure I covered in this video is the the back of the yak is at an angle. I cut and trimmed a piece of the cutting board to sit between the yak and the transom mount to bring the one side up so it would be level. The transom mount is strong enough to lift the boat with and I use it as a handle for moving around. I think the leveling of it is shown better on my more detailed walkthrough.
@@seanodonnell4601 The board inside the hull gives the transom mount something stronger to attach to. I do not think a single layer of plastic would be a solid enough mounting location for a transom. The connectors on the back are auto SAE commenters. I have been out for hours at a time and not drained the battery yet. Math says I should get about an hour and a half at full throttle. I'm certainly getting more but I am also usually at lower speeds. The pulley to pull out the motor has been very handy. If the motor gets weeds in it etc, I pull it up and run at full throttle and it usually clears it well. I have a ring on the side that I can attach that line to if I want to keep the motor up for paddle through Lilly pads to avoid the entanglement. I can pull it out or drop it down while on the water easy enough. I hope this helps and thank you for all of your comments.
Do you trailer your kayak
I haven't yet but I just picked up a homemade trailer that I will be adapting to carry 2, maybe 3 kayaks.