I'm very happy and proud to be one of your loyal Canadian viewers, Mike. I'm sure there are a lot of us that tune in regularly. And, thank you both for the Birthday wishes two weeks ago, much appreciated. Have a great week guys.
Cameraman Mike, I'm a big fan of your work! By the way, the impact does not 'impact' on our speakers, we don't turn down the volume and it's fine. Hi from Queensland, Australia Down-Under
I’ve got a FXB primary on my FXWG. I rebuilt the clutch & replaced the hub bearing & installed the Ramjet retainer plus sized the fiber plate holes as you suggested when you did the clutch on the Shovel. I doubled the clutch hub nut seals & run a lifting plate similar to yours & let me tell you how smooth & predictable the clutch operates! Thanks Mike for the tech tips as they’re priceless nuggets of knowledge!
When you were fighting that key I was wishing I had a way to tell you to dimple it. I never install a key that I don't tap into place. I always watch your videos I've been wrenching in a dealership and in my own shop for 36 years and love watching someone else who like me has all their special home made tools and tricks!! Keep up the good fight and I look forward to your next one!!
Mike, we used to pein the key slot of the driveshaft to keep the keyway in place and slide the universal joint in place. This was for a PTO driveshaft on tow trucks we used to build. Different method, but the same idea. Works great.
A drop of super glue holds the key in nicely, byt still able to be removed if needed. Thanks mike, its refreshing to see the struggles when working on these old bikes.
Hey mike! Huge fan of your channel and your craftsmanship, I have learned a great deal from watching you work on motorcycles. I am putting together my old bike I believe it’s an 84 flh frame with early 80’s fxr primary and transmission. Thanks for all the time you put into making such great videos. See you out on the road!
Hello to you 2 Mikes😎. I like the little things u do that makes a better fit(that little key). I had some problems before to make that key to stay in place when i put the clutchbasket back. So i try that next time. Have a nice week Mike and Mike. Kjell Blomstrand 🇸🇪.
Hi Mike clint from Australia you have given me some amazing tips working with your experience and what I have learnt the S&S engine is really a great way to get rid of leaks and knocks but the S&S heads use 14 mm plugs just for people who don't know i burned out plenty of normal H.D reach because I didn't know.
Short and long reach. Have a look at how far the threads go in. Harley used short reach in Shovelheads early on, then went to long reach. Easy to figure out what you need from the parts catalogs.
Ah, I sure felt your pain with that key! 😂 As a machinist fitting tool holders into spindles you sometimes came across rebellious keys/keyways, but you were at least able to visually identify the problem most of the time and it could be any of a number of things. Patience is the key, and you have it in spades. Great video guys - as usual. Keep up the great work! Cheers from Oz. 👍🇦🇺😊
If I remember correctly, I can put a finger on the key when I slide the clutch hub on. That way you can be fairly "rough" when you enter the key and then slide it on.
The little things seem to be fighting you today. Funny how it goes. I noticed your belt tension is pretty reasonable. On a lot of 1.5" belt drives I've seen the belt is too tight. Sometimes ridiculously so.
To get that mousetrap working right with the pro clutch you need the gold competition pressure plate they sell check it out been there done that love your videos
Out of the crankcase, pointed down then along the left frame rail. All of this is behind the inner primary cover. Don't forget to turn off the chain oiler at the pump.
Hi Mike, Perfect timing for this video. I'm just about to install a new BDL 1.5" belt drive & new 3 finger clutch on a fresh 46FL. Do you think I should use one of those retainers? Thank you .... Gareth
I really appreciate your videos. I’ve definitely learned a lot I wouldn’t have ever figured out without it. I’ve been putting together a 52FL that’s had a lot of hands on her and so trying to get it reliable and correct has been a challenge. I gotta go back out tomorrow night hopefully redo the plate for the clutch hub bearing and maybe stack the plates/fibers differently. I’ve been having trouble getting the belt to stay lined up n the transmission not to move. Any advice is definitely appreciated.
The shafts must line up straight. Line up the trans mainshaft perfectly parallel with the motor shaft. Remove the spark plugs and crank the motor by hand.
@@pacificmike9501 I can’t get a picture to go into the comments. I have a 5 stud clutch hub and it’s got some kinda coiled up spring type keepers on the bearing cage. Can’t tell if that’s the only groove for a snap ring to retain that hub retainer/plate.
Yes that's stock clips. The retainer I use has its own circlips. Just use 3 adjusting studs for the retainer. The hubs originally only had three adjusting studs. Somebody thought 5 was a better idea. I've always done well with the three stud units.
Hey Mike! Love your channel! I’m mounting a CV carb on my shovel and was just wondering what you would use on the paper gasket between the intake and the carb adapter. You steered me too use white lithium on my oil pump and it worked fantastically, but wasn’t sure if you’d recommend the same trick for a carb gasket. Thanks for all the help!
Baby Doll's Primary Playtex . . . a belt up the roaring '20s . . . With it's rayon plies of corsetry, encased in rubber dentures, it must masticate to perambulate, as it takes on her adventures. But as they chew their way through traffic, then squeak around their curves, you see none of the joys of a dancing chain, waving it's rhythm to calm your nerves. For belts are stiff & soulless things, bound girdles for the torque, they work, but they tell you nothing, & you can learn a great deal from a jerk! (Some say, that I resemble that remark . . . the nerve! Y'all : )
I asked this question and it was applied to another video. Question was, what lubricates the roller bearings in the clutch hub? Sorry for the confusion 😬.
Hey Mike nice job! I noticed that you had a spacer located behind the front pulley and one behind the clutch hub. Are those necessary? If so, what are the part numbers and thickness. Thank you and have a nice day!
Yes it is red loktite. Compensator sprocket is generally for a chain. But the "Sturgis" models, 81- 82, had primary and final drive belts. The primary belt had a motor pulley with a cushion drive in it that functioned like a compensator.
Mike. I have 63 pan with the Super Maxx primary what’s the best way to deal with oil breather I tried to cap it with K&N oil breather filter. It didn’t work oil still gets in the primary and on the engine and transmission. I tried to convert the breather to oil the final drive chain it almost work I just put 2000 miles on I’m doing the maintenance on it I decided to turn the breather up to 90 degrees and put some soft insulation and run it out back somewhere.
Well, you run them dry. No oil on your friend's driveway. They are silent. They stay in adjustment. When I bought Babydoll, she had a primary chain. I adjusted it every two weeks. I installed a belt drive. Way better.
question mike have you dealt with the efi fuel line fitting to the tank...the o-ring leaking from inside the swivel fitting ..? they say its not serviceable..and have to replace the hole line to injectors..its on a flhtcui 1999 ... My thinking there has to be a way lol...0r not..just thought id ask...Peace
Wow. That's the Magnetti Morrelli setup. Been a long time since I've even seen one. I'm afraid I'm at a loss. I'd have to have it in front of me. I wish I could help you.
Mr Mike, I am currently trying to figure out how to install my 1.5 BDL kit on my pan head and keep the tin primary just like this video, but the bearing support I have on my ratchet top doesn’t want to let it fit. Any videos or suggestions on this?
Sounds like you've got some mix and match. It's difficult to help when you don't tell me what you have. What year panhead? What transmission? Sounds like 65 and later trans.
And there's the problem. If that's a 72 trans case, it takes a cast inner primary which won't fit your engine. The bearing support is for 65 up when you don't use the stock cast inner primary.
Hi Mike i live in Nevada closer to Reno I can’t give out my personal information on here I wish I could one day to meet you but never know I’ll try find it on internet for swap meeti like to go I have not for long time…. Thank you yes I am building my bike same as you,,,time and money and work I’ll try find my time to get everything ready,,anyway thanks Mike
Hey mike hi 👋 I just fixed my clutch hub nut I put new its brand spanking new seal i use c clap to press it in easy,, i don’t need hammer BAM BAM BAM LOL,,, i got it all done and put back on my 4 speed 1964 transmission kicker ,, for my Panhead that i am. Planning to mock it up engine rebuild from shop the guy i know will help me get it done,,i am not machinists so ill have him do work on it for me to rebuild beautiful Panhead. It’s 1966 i know its Pan/Shovel case but i want complete Panhead period!! That’s my plan ,,it will be all stock 74 inch motor,,i want stock,,my brand new connection rods is aftermarket from japan but it is okay I can’t find original connection rods made in USA 🇺🇸 I can’t find it but eBay most are junk used original rods I don’t trust eBay ,,,i need brand new or good used made in USA connection rods everything but hard to find am i correct?? If you know about it let me know thank you and thank you for video i learn lot of new things ,,i really appreciate your video thanks ill keep watching and keep on learning ,,,when you are ready for your flathead ill watch ya ,,have a great day 😊
@@pacificmike9501 Is what it is , up in NT fishing trip Dundee Lodge , heard a fellow brag around a general camp ground fire later at night , about his first million made down at kings Cross south Oz Melbourne . . selling his arse as a male prostitute , now not wanting to scare children . . he was wearing bicycle pants & may have been recounting his actual past , he was connected & were't allowed to question further
I'm very happy and proud to be one of your loyal Canadian viewers, Mike. I'm sure there are a lot of us that tune in regularly. And, thank you both for the Birthday wishes two weeks ago, much appreciated. Have a great week guys.
Thank You.
👍😊
Cameraman Mike, I'm a big fan of your work! By the way, the impact does not 'impact' on our speakers, we don't turn down the volume and it's fine. Hi from Queensland, Australia Down-Under
Cool. Thank You.
😊💯💯💯💯
I’ve got a FXB primary on my FXWG. I rebuilt the clutch & replaced the hub bearing & installed the Ramjet retainer plus sized the fiber plate holes as you suggested when you did the clutch on the Shovel. I doubled the clutch hub nut seals & run a lifting plate similar to yours & let me tell you how smooth & predictable the clutch operates! Thanks Mike for the tech tips as they’re priceless nuggets of knowledge!
That's wonderful for me to hear. Thank You.
👍😊
When you were fighting that key I was wishing I had a way to tell you to dimple it. I never install a key that I don't tap into place. I always watch your videos I've been wrenching in a dealership and in my own shop for 36 years and love watching someone else who like me has all their special home made tools and tricks!! Keep up the good fight and I look forward to your next one!!
Thank You.
Back in the 70's I never heard time is money. As long as you were working, everything was Cool! Great job Mike.✌️🌎
Thank You.
Hello Mike and Mike great to see you this morning keep up the great work love you video keep them coming and keep it on the road
Thank You. Will do.
👍😊
Mike, we used to pein the key slot of the driveshaft to keep the keyway in place and slide the universal joint in place. This was for a PTO driveshaft on tow trucks we used to build. Different method, but the same idea. Works great.
Key are disposable. Shafts are not. By modifying the key a little, you don't risk damaging the shaft.
A drop of super glue holds the key in nicely, byt still able to be removed if needed. Thanks mike, its refreshing to see the struggles when working on these old bikes.
Thank You.
Hey mike! Huge fan of your channel and your craftsmanship, I have learned a great deal from watching you work on motorcycles. I am putting together my old bike I believe it’s an 84 flh frame with early 80’s fxr primary and transmission. Thanks for all the time you put into making such great videos. See you out on the road!
Thank You. You may have a very interesting mix there. SYOOTR!
Great video
Thank You.
👍😊
Hello to you 2 Mikes😎. I like the little things u do that makes a better fit(that little key). I had some problems before to make that key to stay in place when i put the clutchbasket back. So i try that next time. Have a nice week Mike and Mike. Kjell Blomstrand 🇸🇪.
Thank You.
😊💯
Hi Mike clint from Australia you have given me some amazing tips working with your experience and what I have learnt the S&S engine is really a great way to get rid of leaks and knocks but the S&S heads use 14 mm plugs just for people who don't know i burned out plenty of normal H.D reach because I didn't know.
Short and long reach. Have a look at how far the threads go in. Harley used short reach in Shovelheads early on, then went to long reach. Easy to figure out what you need from the parts catalogs.
Great video Mike!! Be looking for the next one.
Thank You. More to come. Go to our RUclips homepage. There are well over three hundred of our videos up.
Ah, I sure felt your pain with that key! 😂 As a machinist fitting tool holders into spindles you sometimes came across rebellious keys/keyways, but you were at least able to visually identify the problem most of the time and it could be any of a number of things. Patience is the key, and you have it in spades. Great video guys - as usual. Keep up the great work! Cheers from Oz. 👍🇦🇺😊
Thank You and take care.
Great informer, so good and nice, congratulatios.
Thank You.
Thanks for sharing , see you out on the road.
I'm looking forward to it.
I'm looking forward to it.
Thank you! 👍✌️
Thank you too!
If I remember correctly, I can put a finger on the key when I slide the clutch hub on. That way you can be fairly "rough" when you enter the key and then slide it on.
Okay.
Love that 2244 harley sign🤘 thx for all the knowledge.
Thank You.
The little things seem to be fighting you today. Funny how it goes. I noticed your belt tension is pretty reasonable. On a lot of 1.5" belt drives I've seen the belt is too tight. Sometimes ridiculously so.
And the results of a tight belt are not cool.
Never any issues Shovel . . just an agriculture caper
I like that.
To get that mousetrap working right with the pro clutch you need the gold competition pressure plate they sell check it out been there done that love your videos
Thank You.
B for Baby Doll
Amen.
❤😊❤
Thanks for the video, I have a question, How do you have your crankcase breather tube rerouted?
Out of the crankcase, pointed down then along the left frame rail. All of this is behind the inner primary cover. Don't forget to turn off the chain oiler at the pump.
Hi Mike, Perfect timing for this video. I'm just about to install a new BDL 1.5" belt drive & new 3 finger clutch on a fresh 46FL. Do you think I should use one of those retainers? Thank you .... Gareth
You bet. It keeps the basket running straight.
I really appreciate your videos. I’ve definitely learned a lot I wouldn’t have ever figured out without it. I’ve been putting together a 52FL that’s had a lot of hands on her and so trying to get it reliable and correct has been a challenge. I gotta go back out tomorrow night hopefully redo the plate for the clutch hub bearing and maybe stack the plates/fibers differently. I’ve been having trouble getting the belt to stay lined up n the transmission not to move. Any advice is definitely appreciated.
The shafts must line up straight. Line up the trans mainshaft perfectly parallel with the motor shaft. Remove the spark plugs and crank the motor by hand.
@@pacificmike9501 I can’t get a picture to go into the comments. I have a 5 stud clutch hub and it’s got some kinda coiled up spring type keepers on the bearing cage. Can’t tell if that’s the only groove for a snap ring to retain that hub retainer/plate.
Yes that's stock clips. The retainer I use has its own circlips. Just use 3 adjusting studs for the retainer. The hubs originally only had three adjusting studs. Somebody thought 5 was a better idea. I've always done well with the three stud units.
Hey Mike! Love your channel! I’m mounting a CV carb on my shovel and was just wondering what you would use on the paper gasket between the intake and the carb adapter. You steered me too use white lithium on my oil pump and it worked fantastically, but wasn’t sure if you’d recommend the same trick for a carb gasket. Thanks for all the help!
I use white lithium on carb gaskets.
Baby Doll's Primary Playtex . . . a belt up the roaring '20s . . .
With it's rayon plies of corsetry, encased in rubber dentures,
it must masticate to perambulate, as it takes on her adventures.
But as they chew their way through traffic, then squeak around their curves,
you see none of the joys of a dancing chain, waving it's rhythm to calm your nerves.
For belts are stiff & soulless things, bound girdles for the torque,
they work, but they tell you nothing, & you can learn a great deal from a jerk!
(Some say, that I resemble that remark . . . the nerve! Y'all : )
❤❤❤😊
I'm sure all yuour fans love you, as do I.
I asked this question and it was applied to another video.
Question was, what lubricates the roller bearings in the clutch hub?
Sorry for the confusion 😬.
Just a light coating of bearing grease. That's enough to keep it lubed, but not so much that it leaks out.
Hey Mike nice job! I noticed that you had a spacer located behind the front pulley and one behind the clutch hub. Are those necessary? If so, what are the part numbers and thickness. Thank you and have a nice day!
The Motor sprocket shaft and the transmission mainshaft on that 52 are both taper shafts, no spacers.
Hey mike youve probobly been ask this before why if both crank and clutch turn same direction why is one left hand thread love ya stuff
One pulss and one gets pulled.
What happened to replacing the seal behind the d the motor pulley? That’s why I was watching.
This is a 52 motor. Hard to get that out. On the early motors, there was no seal. It's one we added.
Mike, if I'm correct, that was Loktite red, also, are compensator sprockets compatible with primary drive belts? Thanks for details.
Yes it is red loktite. Compensator sprocket is generally for a chain. But the "Sturgis" models, 81- 82, had primary and final drive belts. The primary belt had a motor pulley with a cushion drive in it that functioned like a compensator.
Mike. I have 63 pan with the Super Maxx primary what’s the best way to deal with oil breather
I tried to cap it with
K&N oil breather filter. It didn’t work oil still gets in the primary and on the engine and transmission. I tried to convert the breather to oil the final drive chain it almost work
I just put 2000 miles on I’m doing the maintenance on it
I decided to turn the breather up to 90 degrees and put some soft insulation and run it out back somewhere.
Always run the breather hose down and out the back, never up. Turn off the chain oiler at the oil pump.
Good video guys . I'm just curious if the benefits out weigh the cost of a belt drive . I'm thinking they must because you are using one . Thank you .
Well, you run them dry. No oil on your friend's driveway. They are silent. They stay in adjustment. When I bought Babydoll, she had a primary chain. I adjusted it every two weeks. I installed a belt drive. Way better.
@@pacificmike9501 Makes a lot of sense to me . I'll bet acceleration is better without so much iron to spin up . Thank you .
Not sure. In theory, I'm sure you are correct. I'm more of a topend guy (long trips) and like heavy flywheels.
question mike have you dealt with the efi fuel line fitting to the tank...the o-ring leaking from inside the swivel fitting ..? they say its not serviceable..and have to replace the hole line to injectors..its on a flhtcui 1999 ... My thinking there has to be a way lol...0r not..just thought id ask...Peace
Wow. That's the Magnetti Morrelli setup. Been a long time since I've even seen one. I'm afraid I'm at a loss. I'd have to have it in front of me. I wish I could help you.
What color locktite did you use on the clutch hub nut?
Just a drop of red.
Do I have to time a shovelhead stroker timing gear different than a stock motor? Mine is 4 5/8 stroke
No, but you'll probably experiment a little until you find the setting you need. It is the world of hotrodding.
Mr Mike, I am currently trying to figure out how to install my 1.5 BDL kit on my pan head and keep the tin primary just like this video, but the bearing support I have on my ratchet top doesn’t want to let it fit. Any videos or suggestions on this?
Sounds like you've got some mix and match. It's difficult to help when you don't tell me what you have. What year panhead? What transmission? Sounds like 65 and later trans.
@@pacificmike9501 65 panhead, with a 72 ratchet top
And there's the problem. If that's a 72 trans case, it takes a cast inner primary which won't fit your engine. The bearing support is for 65 up when you don't use the stock cast inner primary.
Just check the throttle is;t hung up at grip & old girl does't fire up at ten to a dozen
Sounds like hard work.
Hi Mike i live in Nevada closer to Reno I can’t give out my personal information on here I wish I could one day to meet you but never know I’ll try find it on internet for swap meeti like to go I have not for long time…. Thank you yes I am building my bike same as you,,,time and money and work I’ll try find my time to get everything ready,,anyway thanks Mike
Thank You.
Hey mike hi 👋
I just fixed my clutch hub nut I put new its brand spanking new seal i use c clap to press it in easy,, i don’t need hammer BAM BAM BAM LOL,,, i got it all done and put back on my 4 speed 1964 transmission kicker ,, for my Panhead that i am. Planning to mock it up engine rebuild from shop the guy i know will help me get it done,,i am not machinists so ill have him do work on it for me to rebuild beautiful Panhead. It’s 1966 i know its Pan/Shovel case but i want complete Panhead period!! That’s my plan ,,it will be all stock 74 inch motor,,i want stock,,my brand new connection rods is aftermarket from japan but it is okay I can’t find original connection rods made in USA 🇺🇸 I can’t find it but eBay most are junk used original rods I don’t trust eBay ,,,i need brand new or good used made in USA connection rods everything but hard to find am i correct?? If you know about it let me know thank you and thank you for video i learn lot of new things ,,i really appreciate your video thanks ill keep watching and keep on learning ,,,when you are ready for your flathead ill watch ya ,,have a great day 😊
I do well at swap meets. Don't know where you live. But, they usually advertise on the internet. Thank You and good luck with your project!
Two other 'guys' is city crack talk . . walk on the wild side Waltzing Matilda
An expression we were using forty years ago. They come and go.
@@pacificmike9501 Is what it is , up in NT fishing trip Dundee Lodge , heard a fellow brag around a general camp ground fire later at night , about his first million made down at kings Cross south Oz Melbourne . . selling his arse as a male prostitute , now not wanting to scare children . . he was wearing bicycle pants & may have been recounting his actual past , he was connected & were't allowed to question further
Clearly the rawhide mallet is not trained up !
Trained up? I don't get it.
Children will clap & adults desultory roll their eye
When roll
By
Good thought.
First! 👍👍
Yay!
@@pacificmike9501 😎
Mike & Mike 👍🏻
@@vernegibb621 😎
Thank You.