These are excellent tips as in all your videos, particularly for a beginner like me. Like an earlier viewer I would love to see the detailing on cab interiors, buffer beams etc.
The best rule of thumb for adding thinners is to add enough that when you shake the bottle with the paint to mix it the paint will quickly run off the sides of the bottle leaving it clear straight away, if it takes a few seconds to clear the sides of the bottle then you need more thinners
Good morning unlike soldering I pretty much agree with what you have said I find aerosol primer can obliterate fine detail.unless you are careful. I use an Iwata HP for detail work but for general use I use a Feng Da BD 180 which is a copy of it the copy costs about a tenth of the Iwata and is more than adequate and has the MAC valve enabling air control very easily
I have just come across your series of videos and am finding them quite interesting and informative. One question I would like to ask is what method do you use to attach the axleboxes to the tender frames. I have tried lowmelt soldering and adhesives, and for some reason found neither to be wholly satisfactory. Yours looked so neat and tidy.
I first tin the outside of the brass frame with a very thin layer of 145 solder. Then gently file the rear of the axlebox so it is totally flat and clean. Tin with low melt - not too much so that it sqidges out of the edge when you fix it to the frame. Then I apply the iron to the rear of the brass frame, whilst pressing the axle box home - you'll feel it slot into position when the low melt is molten. You'll have a few seconds to adjust if you need before it sets.
Hi , I am trying to keep away from enamel or lead based paints ? have you have any experience using acrylics on a suitable primer , sealed with a suitable varnish ?
Hello and thanks for your detailed how to videos. I would like to build a OOsteam loco kit but haven’t found a source for decals and a guide to livery schemes. Can you help in any way?
If I may add, I also sandblast model before airbrushing, I don't have my own pictures, so I grab random video on youtube ruclips.net/video/XtzKFwamxGE/видео.html I made sandblast chamber from big plastic container covered by sheet of glass and use www.airbrush-fengda.co.uk/en_US/p/Sandblaster-Fengda-BD-178-with-Nozzle-0%2C5-mm-sand/1232
You're right, I don't really use that any more... however I would say that given a very thorough wash and scrub in warm clean water, I have never had any issues with WUL.
These are excellent tips as in all your videos, particularly for a beginner like me. Like an earlier viewer I would love to see the detailing on cab interiors, buffer beams etc.
Thank you for the kind comment. I hope to feature something on this in the future.
The best rule of thumb for adding thinners is to add enough that when you shake the bottle with the paint to mix it the paint will quickly run off the sides of the bottle leaving it clear straight away, if it takes a few seconds to clear the sides of the bottle then you need more thinners
great video,only started airbrushing about six months ago,this is a big help thanks
Glad it is of some use Howard.
Hi
Just found your channel and enjoyed this video and Im very interested in kit building so will be checking out your other videos.
Regards Paul
Hi Paul, glad you like the channel. There will be more videos in the future, time is tight at the moment though!
Good morning unlike soldering I pretty much agree with what you have said I find aerosol primer can obliterate fine detail.unless you are careful. I use an Iwata HP for detail work but for general use I use a Feng Da BD 180 which is a copy of it the copy costs about a tenth of the Iwata and is more than adequate and has the MAC valve enabling air control very easily
Hey there, great video. Do you think you could do a video on detailing? Eg cab detail, buffer beam detail and painting the small parts?
Hi Casey. Sure I'll add it to my 'to do' list. Thanks for the comment.
I have just come across your series of videos and am finding them quite interesting and informative. One question I would like to ask is what method do you use to attach the axleboxes to the tender frames. I have tried lowmelt soldering and adhesives, and for some reason found neither to be wholly satisfactory. Yours looked so neat and tidy.
I first tin the outside of the brass frame with a very thin layer of 145 solder. Then gently file the rear of the axlebox so it is totally flat and clean. Tin with low melt - not too much so that it sqidges out of the edge when you fix it to the frame. Then I apply the iron to the rear of the brass frame, whilst pressing the axle box home - you'll feel it slot into position when the low melt is molten. You'll have a few seconds to adjust if you need before it sets.
Hi , I am trying to keep away from enamel or lead based paints ? have you have any experience using acrylics on a suitable primer , sealed with a suitable varnish ?
Hello! Great video, just wondering what your source for buying these kits would be?
Thanks again
Hi, possible sources for LNER would be www.djhmodelloco.co.uk/ www.sefinecast.co.uk/ traders.scalefour.org/LondonRoadModels/
Hello and thanks for your detailed how to videos. I would like to build a OOsteam loco kit but haven’t found a source for decals and a guide to livery schemes. Can you help in any way?
Fox Transfers of Leicester
How thick is your needle ?
Me on my way to build the br black city of truro:
If I may add, I also sandblast model before airbrushing, I don't have my own pictures, so I grab random video on youtube ruclips.net/video/XtzKFwamxGE/видео.html I made sandblast chamber from big plastic container covered by sheet of glass and use www.airbrush-fengda.co.uk/en_US/p/Sandblaster-Fengda-BD-178-with-Nozzle-0%2C5-mm-sand/1232
Why dose music have to be so loud
I am surprised that you use washing up liquid which usually contains lanolin - sheep wool grease!
Otherwise interesting video, thank you
You're right, I don't really use that any more... however I would say that given a very thorough wash and scrub in warm clean water, I have never had any issues with WUL.