Do you think the master cylinder will cause all 4 brakes to slightly drag? I can release each one when I open the bleeder screw. Once I drive it for about 3-7 minutes it starts back dragging. I say slightly dragging because I can jack up the truck and turn them by hand with a lot of force. No leaks on the master cylinder or hydro boost. I’ve greased slider pins, bleeding the brakes 3 times, topped off the fluid on both power steering and brake fluid. Power steering is making the whining noise. Pedal is hard not soft. It’s a 2004 Suburban with hydro boost system. Please help.
Good evening. I have a question for you. I have a 04 mustang gt with dual brake calipers. The brake caliper on the driver side and only the driver side is catching/braking the top of the rotor. I put on a new caliper because only one piston was coming out of that caliper when I press the brake paddle so I changed it out, but it still only catching the top of the rotor. Could it be my brake hose?
So I’ve had the same issue with just the passenger front wheel catching and not letting go. It seems to happen when it’s a hot day and after awhile it will release. Had my brake line replaced so I’ll see if I’m good to go and get back to you
@@StrikeFighterExperience Have the same issue on a new to me F150. Replacing all flex lines and possibly calipers too. Not expensive. On the first hot day I got a smoke show :lol:. Like in the vid it has brackets that surround the hose and they are quite rusty.
I have a brake hose on the driver's side that appears to be sweating at a metal piece near the fitting by the caliper. I guess its always best to replace ASAP.
Depending on how much clearance you have, you can turn the key to position 2, pump the brake pedal a few times, then loosen the bleeder screw on the suspect caliper. If fluid squirts out the line is likely bad, if it dribbles out it is likely ok
Or.....In my case the brake fluid finds the path of least resistance which is that outside crimp where the hose attaches and it leaks everywhere there when the pedal is applied! Welcome to 100,000 mile club cars!
Excellent information, you answered my questions. Thanks!
Awesome information. Clearly speaking. thank you
Excellent explanation, got the same issue i couldn't understand how the brake fluid wasn't flowing back when releasing the pedal.
replace the rubber brake hose is good practice, what about the hard line that connects to the caliper? is that one usually good to go?
Do you think the master cylinder will cause all 4 brakes to slightly drag? I can release each one when I open the bleeder screw. Once I drive it for about 3-7 minutes it starts back dragging. I say slightly dragging because I can jack up the truck and turn them by hand with a lot of force. No leaks on the master cylinder or hydro boost. I’ve greased slider pins, bleeding the brakes 3 times, topped off the fluid on both power steering and brake fluid. Power steering is making the whining noise. Pedal is hard not soft. It’s a 2004 Suburban with hydro boost system. Please help.
Men, what an explanation!!
One of a kind video ! , Can I Ask Some Questions Sir?
Excellent summary at 3 min!
Good evening. I have a question for you. I have a 04 mustang gt with dual brake calipers. The brake caliper on the driver side and only the driver side is catching/braking the top of the rotor. I put on a new caliper because only one piston was coming out of that caliper when I press the brake paddle so I changed it out, but it still only catching the top of the rotor. Could it be my brake hose?
So I’ve had the same issue with just the passenger front wheel catching and not letting go. It seems to happen when it’s a hot day and after awhile it will release. Had my brake line replaced so I’ll see if I’m good to go and get back to you
@@StrikeFighterExperience Thanks for responding back. I changed out my brake hose & cured my problem. So I hope it fixes your problem too...
@@StrikeFighterExperience Have the same issue on a new to me F150. Replacing all flex lines and possibly calipers too. Not expensive. On the first hot day I got a smoke show :lol:. Like in the vid it has brackets that surround the hose and they are quite rusty.
I unclogged my hose with a drill and a wire hanger and cleaned it out its working properly
thanks! good tips and explanations
This man is cool !
I have a brake hose on the driver's side that appears to be sweating at a metal piece near the fitting by the caliper. I guess its always best to replace ASAP.
Great information.
Just replaced both on my es300, that looks like an es300 aswell!
Is there a way to tell. With out taking the tires off.
Depending on how much clearance you have, you can turn the key to position 2, pump the brake pedal a few times, then loosen the bleeder screw on the suspect caliper. If fluid squirts out the line is likely bad, if it dribbles out it is likely ok
thanks!
Or.....In my case the brake fluid finds the path of least resistance which is that outside crimp where the hose attaches and it leaks everywhere there when the pedal is applied! Welcome to 100,000 mile club cars!