I love Mike Palmer and I find myself rewatching these videos over and over again. Mike learned through trial and error over many, many years, and I'm thankful that he's so willing to share his knowledge with others. "Thank You", Mike.
I have to think that those who gave a thumbs down, didn't take the time to view the entire lecture... I personally found the information collectively, to be very very helpful. Very much appreciated...
This content was fine, but I think that it must be kept in perspective just how many 17,000 views is. A handful of dislikes is normal for a number like that- many more than one in one-thousand people are _not quite_ rational. Many of them base their dislikes on something entirely impulsive or superficial, like music or video length. I seem to get around one dislike per 1000 views, so this video is doing great by that standard.
After watching 22 minutes of this lecture, I have decided I will watch it all the way thru and then watch it over with pen and paper to make notes. A 5 star video...I have been learning over the last 5 years beekeeping this being my 6th adding this info into my already learned info is a plus. Use what you like and build your own way yes, but listen to this lecture and you may like. something or all!
MIKE PALMER IS A BEEKEEPING GENIUS,HANDS DOWN SMARTEST TEACHER IVE EVER HAD THE PLEASURE TO LEARN DIFFERENT TECHNIQUES FROM,AND EVERYTHING MAKES SO MUCH SENSE TO ME FOR THE REASONING BEHIND IT.MAN WHAT A BLESSING TO THE BEEKEEPING WORLD...
Been doing bees for 20 plus years and found new things from this lecture, as well as things I have always strived to achieve as ensuring maximum weight and eliminating moisture from the hive, in cold temperatures moisture kills bees when they can't remove it. Here in the Pacific Northwest where temperatures change quite frequently.
I am a Hispanic woman from the desert southwest. I met my husband in the military(he's a Nord) then moved to northern Minnesota. After almost 30 years I still can't get used to the winters, my body wasn't designed from the factory to withstand those kinds of winters. When I got interested in beekeeping, I heard story after story of those ho had lost up to half of their bees during the winters. Take into consideration that some of the bees they are ordering come from California or even Florida and Italy, That's nuts! I knew right away that a California bees may not do well in my area. Heck I'm from California and I don't do well. I decided that I want to get Minnesota bees but was dissappionted that they are ll hybrids now. I am giving a SERIOUS gander to Russian bees. I am not the ONLY one to have considered this because we have a Russian bee farmer right here in Minnesota. I will let you know how it works.
crgaillee Hello and sorry to butt in, but you mentioned your husband is Nordic, and a few days ago I happened to read something about the Nordic Brown bee. Sorry if you already knew about them (I’m new to this! :) but I hear they survive a lot better in cold temps. As Italian honeybees became most popular, I read that the Nordics became harder to find. But perhaps they’re still out there, and it might be worth looking into. Worst case scenario, one could knit some teeny tiny bee sweaters for those cold Minnesota winters! Good luck
I live just north of Dallas, TX, USA where we have a short mild winters. I try not to prejudge speakers but give them all a chance so I listen to the first 10 minutes. More often than not I will listen to the end. Here again is a wonderful speaker, that is polished, had a good mix of great slides, and had plenty of fresh information that kept me interested to the end. Thank you!
If you are having problems with your bees drawing comb I followed the advice here and fed mine 1 gallon each of 2:1 syrup and they are making comb again. Thanks for the assistance.
anyone who starts out a lecture on beekeeping by talking about the history of the lake champlain area and the French and indian war is my kinda person. I don't have bees yet but I am currently in the research phase on my way to starting my first hives. very interesting.
Thank You Mr. Palmer and National Honey Show for an excellent video! I keep bees in Montana and certainly could use your time tested techniques. I was wondering if Mr. Palmer has written any books?
I have to say, considering that youtube does it automaticaly... not putting the CC option is a shame. Deaf here... and I would LOVE to understand Mr Palmer.
It's also a good idea to keep at least two nucs, with emerging brood and laying queen or capped queen cell. After the queen emerges, mates and starts laying, watch for a failing queen colony or god forbid a queenless colony possibly laying workers. There are remedies to introduce a good laying queen to a layer colony, but it requires a bit of effort. Keep nucs for insurance policies. Then in the fall, off the oldest queen you can find and put in a good nuc.
Out of 12 colonies, I only used a queen excluder for building double queen colonies. Now, you want to have a honey gathering machine -- try a double queen stack of boxes. Incidentally, pull your queen excluder back for an opening for drones about 3/4", otherwise the boys will constrict the flow of workers and create a real mess. Also, provide upper entrances for everybody to get into and out of the boxes. I'm too old to lift heavy boxes of honey now, but those were the days-- I've lost track of how much honey can be gathered with a double queen set-up , but it was a lot.
Thank you Mike for a detailed packed video. I learned a lot from this. 2 questions: In regards to wrapping, I understand the need for the upper entrance which I understand is done by turning over the crown board with the cut out. Even though there is an insulation board between the crown board and top, doesn't the cold air go through the upper entrance causing condensation to freeze on the underneath of the crown board? Also, what does one do when it's the beginning of Nov. and there isn't enough food? I have 2 weak hives that I will combine which do not have enough food. Very tough summer with long severe drought and extreme heat on Cape Ann in MA.
Those are the types of bees I had kept in Montana. There were no mites in the mid 1980s. Then I sold my 12 colonies and moved to a different county, higher in elevation and this year I'm going to try to catch a swarm or two of wild,feral bees. I had not planned on messing wirh bees ever again, but... Once a beekeeper, always a beekeeper. They will live in a new insulated Layens hive that holds 22 frames. The hive is 12 feet from the ground on a shed roof in my back yard, away from people and pets, but with garden and water and flower blooms. Last summer, say other 'keepers, was not the best for a good honey harvest because we got no rain in late April, May, and June and July. Farmers had a poor hay harvest as well. I hope this year is different. Now, it is the 20th of April. Time to get some swarm catcher boxes out for a warm weather trend in about a week. Maybe a swarm will happen.
Hi Mike I am about to build a longbox hive but worried about this type for winter months. Up here in Canada winters can be pretty brutal. I wouldn't want to have my bee's freeze up . Wondering if insulating the box with foam would help or should I just forget this type of hive and go to langstroth ?
I have watched a few videos that Mike Palmer has provided. I noticed that all of his hives are close to the ground. Does he have issues with ants? and if so, what does he do to combat that?
This is the first year I've done beekeeping. Since we're heading into fall I'm wondering when to start feeding the bees the fall syrup recipe. Thanks for the help. I live in Minnesota.
@@danholtbk7008 Yeah, I still keep bees. This year is going great I have one package, a swarm that moved in back in June, and another swarm moved in a few days ago that I haven't seen yet because the hives are in a different location from where I live. I'm going to see it tomorrow though. They're in Isanti county.
@@danholtbk7008 I normally wrap them with black roofing paper. This year, my brother wanted to wrap the sides and back with shipping blankets, and put roofing paper on the front, so we're trying that.
That was pollen substitute. You can buy it from some bee equipment suppliers. It comes as a powder and you add sugar syrup to it which makes it into a paste.
My grandmother overwintered bees for 40 years now in Russia. The latitude of Moscow is on par of the middle of Canada. Overwintering is not a surprise to me and I was shocked, shocked to find that Alaskans kill their bees every winter.. Granted the Winters in Moscow are a bit shorter than in Alaska, Latitude 59..
I am a beginner beekeeper in Utah: I continue feeding with sugar 2:1 or 1:1 water the whole winter because bees are indoors around 60-70F, and they go outside through a clear tube in the daytime when it is sunny or warm enough to let them do that. Should I continue feeding with sugar water, or would candies/patties be better? Because of freezing outdoors , 99% of the bees are freezing, and not returning to the hive. So, I am picking up hundreds of bees from the snow, and keeping them indoors inside of a container. After a short period of time, I see 80-90% of frozen bees recovering and moving around. At that point, I put them back in the hive. Is that correct? One opinion is that old or sick bees are going out to die anyway, but most of them seem like young bees. Should I continue collecting them? Or do you think they might not be returning because they are intentionally going out to die?
Radheshyama HDG BBT Radheshyama, I’m a 4th year beekeeper in Portland OR, currently with 5 hives, so, not a master but I’ll pitch my 2 cents. Yours bees kept at 65-70F are not going into a dormant cluster, where they huddle together and vibrate their wing muscles just enough to produce adequate heat to keep the cluster temp around 45 degrees. This results in the minimum use of resources (honey). At the higher temp they remain active, wandering around the hive looking for something to do, raising more brood, etc., and building up waste in their GI tracts that ultimately has to be relieved. At that point, one of two things happens: they go outside through the portal provided and freeze, or they stay inside and develop dysentery. In Portland, a few of my bees will go out for flights when its 40-45 degrees; they land, become chilled, can’t fly, and if not rescued they die. Bees can’t tolerate being outside at less than 50 degrees for very long. I would suggest plugging those exit tubes if weather reports suggest a daytime high of below 50, and maybe unplugging them for an hour or so in midafternoon to let the most desparate leave when temps are 40-50. Leave them plugged completely at 40 and below. Or, if possible, get the temperature of their storage room down to 40-45 so they’ll go into cluster and stay there. The room should be kept pitch black, for the same reason. Cover any windows with black garbage bags and seal the edges. However, they do need ventilation; not only to manage oxygen and carbon dioxide but also moisture. You may need to install a ducted fan. A humidistat would be a good idea. Feeding with fondant or sugar cake, rather than syrup, would lessen moisture production. Check out the Canadian Beekeeper’s channel on RUclips. He has some good videos on his management of hundreds of colonies indoors through long, frigid winters. Again, not an expert here and I have ZERO experience with keeping bees indoors, so if some of our colder weather brethren have conflicting advice, listen closely. Finding a local beekeeping group and a mentor with indoor experience would be invaluable. Perhaps your bees would be better off kept outdoors. Best of luck.
I am hoping that this might be a way that I can get a question of mine answered. I am creating some of the 4 frame Nucs that Mike uses on top of a standard deep separated with a double frame feeder. I have found that the 4 frame nucs created to fit on the standard 16 1/4 x20 inch box leaves a lot of room for the 4 frames Is this a problem,?? am I missing something?? I am assuming that like a honey supper set up with 9 frames this is how the bees will use this as well
It’s more trouble than it’s worth. Bees can keep themselves warm and you don’t want them to be too active at the wrong time of year. Warmer bees eat through their food faster. Best thing is to insulate them as well as you can.
There were only 41 thumbs down. That is a phenomenally low number. It there was a video of Jesus walking on water there would be more thumbs down and comment saying "Jesus can't swim". Needless to say these folks will jump off a cliff to prove they have wings. Darwin awards candidates. Great video! Thumbs up and a subscribe.
Hi I live in zone 4/5 plant hardiness zone in Upper Peninsula of Michigan. Long winters here too. I have a question if anyone can answer it. I don't want to build a giant honey business I just want a natural group of hives I can put in different parts of my property for 2 acres of annual crop plots and about 3 to 7 acres of orchard area. I want something low maintenance that is best for the bees and I want to avoid feeding them sugar preparations. Is it impossible to overwinter without feeding syrup? or will I just have little to no honey harvest from some of my hives some years? If anyone can help me get a feel for what my options are that would be helpful. I was thinking about making some sunhives skeps or log hives
SAMIS666, Are you still in the U.P? Some internet searching should locate a beekeeper's group near you. Houghton has one, Marquette has one. I should hope there are others. Get with one to find mentors that can help you. Good luck!
+Walter Stone I would feed them one gallon of 2:1 sugar/water for every 10lbs of stores they need, roughly. For our Indiana winters, a strong double deep colony should have around 50lbs of stores going into winter.
I'm not a bee expert by any means, but could someone who knows about bees tell me what would happen if instead of adding more brood boxes onto the hive, if you saw them preparing to swarm and just killed the queen? Wouldn't that prevent swarming?
Dustin Nunyo You may prevent swarming, but you have killed a proven fertile queen. I would just split off the queen cells into a nuc box and let nature take her course.
I have two hives, in them both they had about 8 queen cells. I cut them out, after I found the queen. These are Carniolan bees, going tomorrow if I find queens again. I am planning on splitting the hive. Brood chamber is deep, med, deep, then a supper, they hardly touched it, little food stores. But lots of drones, lots brood, nice pattern, They just want to swarm it seems.
Wow this guy can ramble on and on and on before getting to anything actually interesting. This was not made for the tech savvy. Good bad or indifferent in the internet age you need to get your point across in the first 60 seconds of forget it.
I love Mike Palmer and I find myself rewatching these videos over and over again. Mike learned through trial and error over many, many years, and I'm thankful that he's so willing to share his knowledge with others. "Thank You", Mike.
I have to think that those who gave a thumbs down, didn't take the time to view the entire lecture... I personally found the information collectively, to be very very helpful. Very much appreciated...
This content was fine, but I think that it must be kept in perspective just how many 17,000 views is. A handful of dislikes is normal for a number like that- many more than one in one-thousand people are _not quite_ rational. Many of them base their dislikes on something entirely impulsive or superficial, like music or video length. I seem to get around one dislike per 1000 views, so this video is doing great by that standard.
Your over analyzing it. The dislikes are simply people with Parkinson's who tried to like the video.
Ziad Natsheh OOohhh... makes sense, thanks! :)
Nice to see your comment here Frederick. I follow your channel and enjoy your videos/ informatoin on bees.
Ziad Natsheh ... that was very funny ... first I laughed, and then I felt guilty thinking of the people I know living with the decease.
After watching 22 minutes of this lecture, I have decided I will watch it all the way thru and then watch it over with pen and paper to make notes. A 5 star video...I have been learning over the last 5 years beekeeping this being my 6th adding this info into my already learned info is a plus. Use what you like and build your own way yes, but listen to this lecture and you may like.
something or all!
package bee sellers be mad
MIKE PALMER IS A BEEKEEPING GENIUS,HANDS DOWN SMARTEST TEACHER IVE EVER HAD THE PLEASURE TO LEARN DIFFERENT TECHNIQUES FROM,AND EVERYTHING MAKES SO MUCH SENSE TO ME FOR THE REASONING BEHIND IT.MAN WHAT A BLESSING TO THE BEEKEEPING WORLD...
OKAY
I don't keep bees or have much experience, but i found this really interesting. Mike is a very wise man.
the people thet gave a thumbs down must not have a clue bout how important the bees are,, much appreciated video thank you
Been doing bees for 20 plus years and found new things from this lecture, as well as things I have always strived to achieve as ensuring maximum weight and eliminating moisture from the hive, in cold temperatures moisture kills bees when they can't remove it. Here in the Pacific Northwest where temperatures change quite frequently.
My grandmother had pillows stuffed with something (wool I think) that wicked moisture and insulated them. Maybe is was wood shavings? Don't remember.
Thank you Mike.
I am a Hispanic woman from the desert southwest. I met my husband in the military(he's a Nord) then moved to northern Minnesota. After almost 30 years I still can't get used to the winters, my body wasn't designed from the factory to withstand those kinds of winters. When I got interested in beekeeping, I heard story after story of those ho had lost up to half of their bees during the winters. Take into consideration that some of the bees they are ordering come from California or even Florida and Italy, That's nuts! I knew right away that a California bees may not do well in my area. Heck I'm from California and I don't do well. I decided that I want to get Minnesota bees but was dissappionted that they are ll hybrids now. I am giving a SERIOUS gander to Russian bees. I am not the ONLY one to have considered this because we have a Russian bee farmer right here in Minnesota. I will let you know how it works.
crgaillee Hello and sorry to butt in, but you mentioned your husband is Nordic, and a few days ago I happened to read something about the Nordic Brown bee. Sorry if you already knew about them (I’m new to this! :) but I hear they survive a lot better in cold temps. As Italian honeybees became most popular, I read that the Nordics became harder to find. But perhaps they’re still out there, and it might be worth looking into. Worst case scenario, one could knit some teeny tiny bee sweaters for those cold Minnesota winters! Good luck
So they survive the winter?
did it work?
@@danholtbk7008 That's tragic, Minnesota is so nice
I live just north of Dallas, TX, USA where we have a short mild winters. I try not to prejudge speakers but give them all a chance so I listen to the first 10 minutes. More often than not I will listen to the end. Here again is a wonderful speaker, that is polished, had a good mix of great slides, and had plenty of fresh information that kept me interested to the end. Thank you!
......Very Informative with good advice...... Appreciate the video Mr Palmer........ Special Thanks to N.H.S.
Outstanding! Thank you!
Thank you for a very informative video!!
Great video-thanks!
Great beekeeping tutorial. Thank you.
If you are having problems with your bees drawing comb I followed the advice here and fed mine 1 gallon each of 2:1 syrup and they are making comb again. Thanks for the assistance.
I found this info very helpful; thanks for sharing it
Very good lecture thank you I am just starting out this was helpful.
anyone who starts out a lecture on beekeeping by talking about the history of the lake champlain area and the French and indian war is my kinda person. I don't have bees yet but I am currently in the research phase on my way to starting my first hives. very interesting.
THIS WAS SO HELPFUL FOR ME, AND FOR EVERYONE I ASSUME. VERY GRATEFUL FOR THIS.
THANK YOU BRAD, VERY COOL.
This was great thanks for sharing
iam from Alaska and i found it very helpful would love to get a hold of 2 of his QUEENS
Thank You Mr. Palmer and National Honey Show for an excellent video! I keep bees in Montana and certainly could use your time tested techniques. I was wondering if Mr. Palmer has written any books?
I have to say, considering that youtube does it automaticaly... not putting the CC option is a shame.
Deaf here... and I would LOVE to understand Mr Palmer.
It's also a good idea to keep at least two nucs, with emerging brood and laying queen or capped queen cell. After the queen emerges, mates and starts laying, watch for a failing queen colony or god forbid a queenless colony possibly laying workers. There are remedies to introduce a good laying queen to a layer colony, but it requires a bit of effort. Keep nucs for insurance policies. Then in the fall, off the oldest queen you can find and put in a good nuc.
Many thanks,,
I can't believe people frown at dandelion honey. Dandelion honey is some of the best honey I have ever had.
makes great wine also
i want bees now. I'm not even a farmer, but this is fascinating!
Out of 12 colonies, I only used a queen excluder for building double queen colonies. Now, you want to have a honey gathering machine -- try a double queen stack of boxes. Incidentally, pull your queen excluder back for an opening for drones about 3/4", otherwise the boys will constrict the flow of workers and create a real mess. Also, provide upper entrances for everybody to get into and out of the boxes. I'm too old to lift heavy boxes of honey now, but those were the days-- I've lost track of how much honey can be gathered with a double queen set-up , but it was a lot.
The most important question is what do you do for mite prevention so I have the problem of an overpopulated hive in the spring.
This is very good 👍, I’m new to bees and this is great information!!!
Thank you Mike for a detailed packed video. I learned a lot from this. 2 questions: In regards to wrapping, I understand the need for the upper entrance which I understand is done by turning over the crown board with the cut out. Even though there is an insulation board between the crown board and top, doesn't the cold air go through the upper entrance causing condensation to freeze on the underneath of the crown board? Also, what does one do when it's the beginning of Nov. and there isn't enough food? I have 2 weak hives that I will combine which do not have enough food. Very tough summer with long severe drought and extreme heat on Cape Ann in MA.
Don't keep Bees, but it's on my to-do list, enjoyed your lecture.
Those are the types of bees I had kept in Montana. There were no mites in the mid 1980s. Then I sold my 12 colonies and moved to a different county, higher in elevation and this year I'm going to try to catch a swarm or two of wild,feral bees. I had not planned on messing wirh bees ever again, but... Once a beekeeper, always a beekeeper. They will live in a new insulated Layens hive that holds 22 frames. The hive is 12 feet from the ground on a shed roof in my back yard, away from people and pets, but with garden and water and flower blooms. Last summer, say other 'keepers, was not the best for a good honey harvest because we got no rain in late April, May, and June and July. Farmers had a poor hay harvest as well. I hope this year is different. Now, it is the 20th of April. Time to get some swarm catcher boxes out for a warm weather trend in about a week. Maybe a swarm will happen.
Hi Mike I am about to build a longbox hive but worried about this type for winter months. Up here in Canada winters can be pretty brutal. I wouldn't want to have my bee's freeze up . Wondering if insulating the box with foam would help or should I just forget this type of hive and go to langstroth ?
I have watched a few videos that Mike Palmer has provided. I noticed that all of his hives are close to the ground. Does he have issues with ants? and if so, what does he do to combat that?
Thank you for interesting video! :) Good luck beekeepin! Greetings from UKRAINE! :)
We get dandilions in sask however ive never that many in one place ever
Hello! Can you please turn the closed captioning on for this video? I would appreciate it.
This is excellent! Is there any way to get it into closed captioning please?
Mr. Palmer,
How heavy are your brood factories going into winter? Thank you, Jonathan
You must have missed it. He said his target weight was 155lb (70.3Kg) for a 3 brood box colony
what do you think of quilt boards for winter on the hives?
This is the first year I've done beekeeping. Since we're heading into fall I'm wondering when to start feeding the bees the fall syrup recipe. Thanks for the help. I live in Minnesota.
@@danholtbk7008 Yeah, I still keep bees. This year is going great I have one package, a swarm that moved in back in June, and another swarm moved in a few days ago that I haven't seen yet because the hives are in a different location from where I live. I'm going to see it tomorrow though. They're in Isanti county.
@@danholtbk7008 I normally wrap them with black roofing paper. This year, my brother wanted to wrap the sides and back with shipping blankets, and put roofing paper on the front, so we're trying that.
I wish I knew what "pollen substitute" is, also what's that stuff smeared on the top of the frames at 18min 19seconds into the video?
That was pollen substitute. You can buy it from some bee equipment suppliers. It comes as a powder and you add sugar syrup to it which makes it into a paste.
Kenneth Christison great advice on supering
Also on RUclips you can type 18:19 and it makes a link for you
Can I get copy of the powerpoint presentation for my classes?
My grandmother overwintered bees for 40 years now in Russia. The latitude of Moscow is on par of the middle of Canada. Overwintering is not a surprise to me and I was shocked, shocked to find that Alaskans kill their bees every winter.. Granted the Winters in Moscow are a bit shorter than in Alaska, Latitude 59..
Please enable captions!
what kind of wrapping paper is mike using ? great video!!!!
It's called 15 pound felt. Thin tar paper used under roofing shingles.
have you ever used a candy board to feed yuor bees over winter?
I am a beginner beekeeper in Utah: I continue feeding with sugar 2:1 or 1:1 water the whole winter because bees are indoors around 60-70F, and they go outside through a clear tube in the daytime when it is sunny or warm enough to let them do that. Should I continue feeding with sugar water, or would candies/patties be better?
Because of freezing outdoors , 99% of the bees are freezing, and not returning to the hive. So, I am picking up hundreds of bees from the snow, and keeping them indoors inside of a container. After a short period of time, I see 80-90% of frozen bees recovering and moving around. At that point, I put them back in the hive. Is that correct? One opinion is that old or sick bees are going out to die anyway, but most of them seem like young bees. Should I continue collecting them? Or do you think they might not be returning because they are intentionally going out to die?
Radheshyama HDG BBT Radheshyama, I’m a 4th year beekeeper in Portland OR, currently with 5 hives, so, not a master but I’ll pitch my 2 cents. Yours bees kept at 65-70F are not going into a dormant cluster, where they huddle together and vibrate their wing muscles just enough to produce adequate heat to keep the cluster temp around 45 degrees. This results in the minimum use of resources (honey). At the higher temp they remain active, wandering around the hive looking for something to do, raising more brood, etc., and building up waste in their GI tracts that ultimately has to be relieved. At that point, one of two things happens: they go outside through the portal provided and freeze, or they stay inside and develop dysentery. In Portland, a few of my bees will go out for flights when its 40-45 degrees; they land, become chilled, can’t fly, and if not rescued they die. Bees can’t tolerate being outside at less than 50 degrees for very long. I would suggest plugging those exit tubes if weather reports suggest a daytime high of below 50, and maybe unplugging them for an hour or so in midafternoon to let the most desparate leave when temps are 40-50. Leave them plugged completely at 40 and below. Or, if possible, get the temperature of their storage room down to 40-45 so they’ll go into cluster and stay there. The room should be kept pitch black, for the same reason. Cover any windows with black garbage bags and seal the edges. However, they do need ventilation; not only to manage oxygen and carbon dioxide but also moisture. You may need to install a ducted fan. A humidistat would be a good idea. Feeding with fondant or sugar cake, rather than syrup, would lessen moisture production. Check out the Canadian Beekeeper’s channel on RUclips. He has some good videos on his management of hundreds of colonies indoors through long, frigid winters. Again, not an expert here and I have ZERO experience with keeping bees indoors, so if some of our colder weather brethren have conflicting advice, listen closely. Finding a local beekeeping group and a mentor with indoor experience would be invaluable. Perhaps your bees would be better off kept outdoors. Best of luck.
I am hoping that this might be a way that I can get a question of mine answered. I am creating some of the 4 frame Nucs that Mike uses on top of a standard deep separated with a double frame feeder. I have found that the 4 frame nucs created to fit on the standard 16 1/4 x20 inch box leaves a lot of room for the 4 frames Is this a problem,?? am I missing something?? I am assuming that like a honey supper set up with 9 frames this is how the bees will use this as well
Question. Has any one experimented with adding heat when cold drops below 20 below.
It’s more trouble than it’s worth. Bees can keep themselves warm and you don’t want them to be too active at the wrong time of year. Warmer bees eat through their food faster. Best thing is to insulate them as well as you can.
There were only 41 thumbs down. That is a phenomenally low number. It there was a video of Jesus walking on water there would be more thumbs down and comment saying "Jesus can't swim". Needless to say these folks will jump off a cliff to prove they have wings. Darwin awards candidates. Great video! Thumbs up and a subscribe.
Hi I live in zone 4/5 plant hardiness zone in Upper Peninsula of Michigan. Long winters here too. I have a question if anyone can answer it. I don't want to build a giant honey business I just want a natural group of hives I can put in different parts of my property for 2 acres of annual crop plots and about 3 to 7 acres of orchard area. I want something low maintenance that is best for the bees and I want to avoid feeding them sugar preparations. Is it impossible to overwinter without feeding syrup? or will I just have little to no honey harvest from some of my hives some years? If anyone can help me get a feel for what my options are that would be helpful. I was thinking about making some sunhives skeps or log hives
SAMIS666, Are you still in the U.P? Some internet searching should locate a beekeeper's group near you. Houghton has one, Marquette has one. I should hope there are others. Get with one to find mentors that can help you. Good luck!
I have week hive how long should use sugar water this time of the year I have a lot to learn
+Walter Stone I would feed them one gallon of 2:1 sugar/water for every 10lbs of stores they need, roughly. For our Indiana winters, a strong double deep colony should have around 50lbs of stores going into winter.
I'm not a bee expert by any means, but could someone who knows about bees tell me what would happen if instead of adding more brood boxes onto the hive, if you saw them preparing to swarm and just killed the queen? Wouldn't that prevent swarming?
Dustin Nunyo You may prevent swarming, but you have killed a proven fertile queen. I would just split off the queen cells into a nuc box and let nature take her course.
+Dustin Nunyo You should read some books and take some classes. You could keep guessing, but that's a much harder way to learn.
42 viewers who gave dislike are package sellers from Georgia lol
Iam new but i dont use upper entrance. My bees been doing well.
How thick are the walls of the hive?
Usually 22mm
Dupa 4 ani il reascult cu placere !
3 brood chambers seems ... Excessive
In my town 20 or 30 blow
Thought your viewers might be interested in our new video for Thorne
Thank you
THORNE - NATIONAL BEEHIVE BROOD - Assembly Instructions
I'm disappointed that Mr Palmer doesn't tell us what type of bees are best suited for living in these conditions.
Short Answer: whatever does best!
Mike hates Italian bees. All they want to do is rob other hives.
@@russellkoopman3004 Yes, they are the worst for robbing. Carniolans are my favourite.
Use local bees. They are accustomed to your area and will have a better chance of survival.
Mike has Carniolan bees.
now its the feds
I have two hives, in them both they had about 8 queen cells. I cut them out, after I found the queen. These are Carniolan bees, going tomorrow if I find queens again. I am planning on splitting the hive. Brood chamber is deep, med, deep, then a supper, they hardly touched it, little food stores. But lots of drones, lots brood, nice pattern, They just want to swarm it seems.
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Bee culfation, Aceh, altami. 👆👆👆👆🙏🤜
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Helpm
Volume too low
And for those who don't subscribe to dying paper publications ?
I am so down w bees. I don't even care about humans..
Wow, my hat is off to anyone who can follow this guy -- too complicated for me.
+tkarlmann ive been losing the battle for six years and now this makes sense to me, the best info i have seen
tkarlmann BEST TEACHER EVER...BAR NONE
Wow this guy can ramble on and on and on before getting to anything actually interesting. This was not made for the tech savvy. Good bad or indifferent in the internet age you need to get your point across in the first 60 seconds of forget it.
This wasn't made for the Internet. He was the featured speaker at the National Honey Show...they decided to make this available to everyone.
I think your comment points to a deficiency of the internet age, lack of attention.