etrailer | Install: Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver on a 2016 Audi Q5
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
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Today on our 2016 Audi Q5 we'll be installing the Draw-Tite Class III Max Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number 75940. All right, here's what our hitch looks like installed. As you can see, it's very well hidden behind our factory bumper cover here. Tucks up nicely behind it. The one part really hanging down is the class III receiver with the 2 by 2 inch opening, and then our safety chain loops right here are also hanging down. I like the fact that our safety chain loops here are behind our hitch pins and below the receiver, because if you have a large locking device to secure your ball mount, sometimes if your safety chain loops are in this area here your hitch pin covers it up, and it makes it more difficult to attach your safety chain loops. When they're in this location here, it is easier for you to use.
It's one very nice feature about this hitch. Towards the front of our hitch we have our industry standard 5/8 inch hitch pin hole here. To the rear we have a J pin stabilization device, which is a device that's inserted to help take some annoying shake and play and rattle out of whatever inside of your receiver. We have those available separately on our website if you'd like to purchase one, unless your bike rack or cargo carrier already has an anti-rattle device built into it. This hitch features a black powder coat finish throughout it's construction. We have this nice collar welded on to the end of the receiver that helps give it a nice finished look. This hitch features a 750 pound max tongue weight rating and a 5,000 pound max gross trailer weight rating.
It does not support the use of weight distribution systems. Now for a few measurements to better assist you in choosing any hitch mounted accessory you may need, such as a ball mount, bike rack or cargo carrier. You're looking at about 4 inches from the center of the 5/8 inch diameter hitch pin hole to the rearmost point of the back bumper, and about 15 inches from the ground to the top of the class III 2 inch receiver opening. This hitch is a simple installation. It uses existing hardware already in the vehicle. On most models it requires no modification to the fascia at all, no trimming required. On some models that don't have the access cover here you will have to do some trimming, though.
Even though our hitch is recessed a little bit behind the edge of our bumper cover it does stick out far enough that most bike rack or cargo carriers should be able to clear just fine with the location of the hitch pin hole. Here's what our hitch comes with, just the hitch itself. There's no installation hardware required. It installs using existing factory hardware already on our vehicle. If you see here on the side of our hitch, this will slide into our frame channel and it'll be installed using the existing bolts in our frame channel. All right, now this hitch is a slightly involved install.
We'll need to remove our rear bumper cover in order to install that. To do that we'll open our hatch first. We can now remove all of our flooring and we'll set it aside. Now we'll remove our cargo bin 00:03:01 tray here. Now we'll remove our scuff panel here. To do that just pull straight up on it and it'll pop out. We'll remove our electrical connection here, push on the tab and it pulls out, with that unplugged. There was a tab on the top and the bottom of it too. If you find it difficult, squeeze right there and it'll come out pretty easily. There's 2 circular pockets here and our bumper support where there's a 10 millimeter nut inside. It's fairly recessed so we need an extension and a deep well socket. The other ones over here is right next to our latch mechanism. Now we need to remove our 4 cargo hooks here. There's 2 on each side of the vehicle, and they're held in place with T30 screws. There's 2 screws per hook. Once you get the screws out just lift it up. We'll repeat the same process for the other side. Now we can lift our side rails off. The back rail comes with it. Now we can remove our driver side interior panel here. Twist the latch, pull down, lift off. Now we'll remove our air compressor. Pull back on the hook and loop tape, lift up. Now we'll remove these clips here that hold a styrofoam bracket in place that held our air compressor. Just unscrew them, set them out. With those undone we'll just lift it straight up and set it aside. Right where my finger is there's another 10 millimeter nut that holds our rear bumper cover on. This is inside the compartment where the air compressor was. We're going to go ahead and remove that. For reference, that stud is right back in this area here. Now we'll remove our passenger side panel.
Nice video of the install. Thanks. I was able to just pull the bumper cover off to the side and slide the old aluminum bumper off and the new hitch on without disturbing the harness connections. Worked great.
We're glad the video was helpful!
www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Draw-Tite/75940.html
I just completed the installation of this hitch on my 2016 Audi Q5 and have some VERY important words to the wise before attempting this oneself. There is a high risk of seriously damaging beyond repair the bumper fascia. Removing interior parts and bolts/screws was all very easy as described in the video. Where the video falls woefully short is where they show the bumper fascia being removed and then re-installed. It is no way near as easy as the video led me to believe. DO NOT pull the bumper straight out as they do! You will likely break the plastic slots on the bumper fascia (not visible from outside) that snap to plastic catches underneath. When I realized I had broken 3 of 4 on driver side, I got worried I would have to pay thousands to replace the entire fascia or have a loose bumper edge where it meets the fender. So, I was very careful on the passenger side and used a trim tool to ease the tabs off their catches. Regardless, I still broke 2 on that side. Knowing the design of the fascia attachment system and then showing a sure fire way to release it, without damage, would have been nice. Although the video says and shows the fascia wiring being completely unplugged and detached, this is NOT necessary. If you leave the car wheels on the ground, you can put a blanket on the ground directly below the bumper to set the fascia on, once it is free of all it's attachments. There is just one large set of wires on the passenger side that attach to the fascia. And, it is plenty long to allow the fascia to rest on the blanket. Removing the aluminum bumper and replacing it with the Drawtite hitch was easy, HOWEVER, getting the fascia back on took at least 10 attempts to finally figure out how to get hitch inside the removable hitch hatch while getting all the other various edges of the fascia, and threaded posts, into their proper locations. THANKFULLY, (sigh of relief), when we got the fascia completely reattached, the fender screws held the fascia flush to the fenders, despite all the broken slotted tabs. eTrailer, I request you redo the video so that clear and easy methods are demonstrated for dealing with these critical details. I'd hate to be someone with any less skill than myself who has to pay for a new fascia on their $50K new Audi
The above is a bit dramatic. It is unnecessary to unclip the wiring from the inside of the bumper. Unclip the black and brown connectors from the rear right bulkhead, pull the rubber grommet out of the fender and feed the connectors through the hole. Leaving the bumper resting behind the vehicle is asking for a disaster. When removing the bumper cover pull the upper seam OUTWARD not backward. Try to use a trim tool to lever on the inside to help pop it out and make sure both sides are free. There is a support for the lower part of the wheel well that has a small tab in a slot in the bumper cover. Make sure both sides are loose of those lower supports before pulling it rearward. When replacing the cover make sure the two white pins on either side of the hatch opening near the tail light area are in the bumper cover, not in the body or they cannot be located.
Great video tutorial. I just finished the install on 2016 Q5. My observations
- get someone to help you, things will move along much faster
- get a 10mm deep socket, you'll need it for the nuts that hold the fascia
- get a torque wrench to correctly tighten the bolts that hold the hitch which also acts as your bumper bar
- get an extension for the wrench, if you have. A flexible and regular one it will make things much easier for those hard to reach places
- don't fret if you break a couple of the clips on the top of the fascia by the wheel well, it is likely to happen but it will still hold and ensure you screw back your wheel well liner
- you don't need to remove the fascia wiring, if you can rest it on a box or something slightly elevated you should be fine
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Very well done! This video goes at a pace easy for the viewer to follow along. I would suggest listing the tools necessary to complete the installation, suggested number of people (it seems 2 men removed the bumper fascia) and estimated amount of time to complete the installation. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Great video. One way to make it even better would be to list all the tools and lug sizing in the info field so we don’t each have to do it manually. This could apply to all your how-to videos... Thanks.
Great suggestion! I will pass the info along. Thanks!
Why isn't the access cover trimmed more closely around the receiver and re-installed rather than left off - leaving a gaping hole?
I did exactly that with mine. I just finished it and fear it may rattle. I’m going to test it out for a bit and add some foam weather stripping if it does end up rattling.
Yeah I cut a square hole in the center of my access cover and slipped it right in over the hitch.
Some Euro hitches are larger for trailer brake wiring panels.
The whole point of the panel is for OEM installed hitches. If the hitch is removed you'll want an undamaged panel and if you don't remove the hitch you'll never notice the hole
Great video, but you must not forget that the original alu bumper has 4 bolts where the steel trailer hitch has 6 bolts so don't forget to place and fasten those bolts. To do so you need to remove the stickers where you can put the bolts in 5 inches forward to the other bolts.
Does not have 6 bolts, only accommodation for four.
Thanks for the video. Those 2 studs behind the air compressor and fuse panel are so unnecessary and frustrating.
Edit
If you look where the fuse panel area was inside the pass side where you took out the 10mm bolt, there is a tan colored and black colored connector. If you unplug those 2 you can pull them both out of the 1/4 panel with the grommet and remove the bumper cover without unplugging everything
what about the wiring harness install for trailers?
Check out the following link to see the wiring options for the 2016 Audi Q5.
www.etrailer.com/t1-2016_Audi_Q5.htm
Great video. Would the install for the 2017 Porsche Macan be the same?
Yeah, the installation is the same. You can click the link below to view more information on the hitch. I am also linking the wiring harnesses that are confirmed to fit a 2017 Porsche Macan.
www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Porsche/Macan/2017/75940.html?vehicleid=201744792
www.etrailer.com/t1-2017_Porsche_Macan.htm
Replace an aluminum bumper with a chunk of steel? The crush/absorption characteristics of the two are way different. I think I'll go with the exposed hitch. I may be way off, but just something to consider.
The exposed hitch is going to change crush/absorption characteristics of the vehicle as well. This one more closely follows the design of the factory hitch engineered by Audi.
I looked at the exposed hitch, absolutely no way in hell I'd put that on my car. This is the same as OEM and far superior plus better looking