Just wow, Mr. Sorrels. I am so obsessed with things that endures time. I can only imagine a chef knife made in this construction, how it will last through generations. The fact that you made these your own is just makes it completely in another level. It must have been quite a satisfaction for each knife you made. Keep inspiring!
Walter, I was just watching an episode of the History Channel's "Iron & Fire" when the star of that show, blacksmith Daniel Casey, did something that you may or may not find useful. Before fully polishing out a Damascus blade he locked it into a vise and used his thumbnail to basically ring it like a bell. He said that with even the slightest crack you can hear it. It makes sense. I've never personally tried it on a knife blade, but it works on shotgun barrels. If there is even the slightest loose spot in the soldering of the rib or the connection of the barrels you get a dull thunk instead of a nice ring. If it works it could help you to spot a cracked blade before doing all that hand polishing work. BTW, really looking forward to seeing you on the TV show!
Hi Walter. Any suggestions to bevel grinding technique that will help avoid a thicker tip? I've been trying to remain conscious of the fact that the tip and plunge line will be thicker as you've described in other videos, but I still end up with a tip that's thicker than the rest of the bevel on most knives. Makes it a bit laborious to finish a knife, and nerve wracking because it's easy to botch my bevel when I'm trying to clean up the tip. If it matters, I use a piece of scrap steel anchored to the tool rest on my grinder so that I have a stable platform when grinding the bevel - wondering if I should start grinding free hand.
No one else picked up on this little hint in your video... But did my spider senses tell me that you were filming in New York for "Forged in Fire".... I'm a cop, I listen for hints.
I noticed at about 6:00 you mention that you are going to grind the blade. Does this require more initial material or is the waste from forging out the blade similar? Also A curiosity of mine, have you ever tried making something from all the scrap pieces that flake off? I've heard something about that in Japanese balcksmithing related to apprentices making their masterwork.
Cutting oil isn't necessary with any bit when drilling steel, good technique will largely prevent killing bits. Make sure that the chips are clearing from your holes and not packing up inside(not really a problem on blade thickness material, but this will cause the cutting edge of the bit to chip), make sure that you're not overheating the bit(this is the real killer), apply good pressure(not enough and you'll be generating a lot of heat without removing much material), and, in general, don't rush like everyone feels the need to do. Ideally, you want to plunge the bit over and over, cutting a few seconds at a time before lifting back up, rather than going at it until you poke through the other side - this will clear the chips and keep the temperature in check. But, again, this isn't necessarily required for blade thickness steel that isn't hardened because it's just so thin, but would be a good idea if you're trying to drill a hole after heat treating(don't waste your time with anything other can carbide for hardened steel - HSS will NOT do it). With that said, I always use cutting oil because I have it and it lets me be a little lazy/sloppy with technique(longer plunges) - but, make no mistake, cutting oil doesn't let you get away with too much, because, when you see smoke, you're burning off that oil which means you're overheating the bit. So, cutting oil or not, the sharpness & life of a bit is dependent on technique to prevent edge chipping & overheating. And, just like a knife, a bit will get dull with use even with good technique. So, whenever a bit gets dull, stop using it and sharpen it(easily done on a bench grinder, look up tutorials here on YT), otherwise continued use will just overheat it and sharpening it won't save it at that point. - Someone whose income has been more dependent on drilling holes in metal than I'd care to admit
I am a lawyer representing Cold Steel knives Ltd, I am instructed to hereby order a cease and desist notice, informing you of my intention to claim copyright infringement if this video isn't taken down in 24 hours ;)
Hi Walter. Whats the deal with the term Damascus, I was under the impression that the art of making Damascus steel was lost to mankind (with Dragons dying out and all)?
look through his videos, has a video about different types of metals and a follow up video about material suppliers(namely for North America, though he includes some Aus suppliers as well that a viewer gave)
1095 is a very forgiving steel, so you should be OK to reheat it. The only issue you might run into is blade warpage if you give it a second go. Also, for a simple high carbon steel such as 1095, right before you quench the steel, check the blade with a magnet to be sure it does not stick. If it becomes non-magnetic, chances are that you'll get a decent heat treat without a bunch of expensive heat treating ovens.
Too bad Walter got eliminated on Forged in Fire. I would love to have seen what he could have brought to the finals. The man should be a judge on there. And his RUclips channel kicks the shit out of J Nelson's with his whopping 6 short clips from 6 and 12 years ago. Like i said this guy should be the judge
a stack of steal weights lets say 1 1b. you forge weld and it now has "scale". before you clean off the scale does it now weigh more than 1 lb. or less than 1 lb. you clean the scale off. is it back to 1 lb. or less than 1 lb. what is "scale "?
Scale is oxidized steel on the surface of your working piece. It's formation occurs during forging and heating. Hence, removing it is in fact removing steal from the original piece, and will reduce the weight, or as you said, be "less than 1 lb". I don't have a ton of experience here and others could give a far better answer, but that should sum it up. I'm sure Google and the various blade forums have something to say about it as well.
Actually, before you clean the scale off (if you had all the scale formed and none fell off) it would weigh slightly more. 1 lb of steel will make, I think, 3 lbs of rust.
Just wow, Mr. Sorrels. I am so obsessed with things that endures time. I can only imagine a chef knife made in this construction, how it will last through generations. The fact that you made these your own is just makes it completely in another level. It must have been quite a satisfaction for each knife you made. Keep inspiring!
Walter, I was just watching an episode of the History Channel's "Iron & Fire" when the star of that show, blacksmith Daniel Casey, did something that you may or may not find useful. Before fully polishing out a Damascus blade he locked it into a vise and used his thumbnail to basically ring it like a bell. He said that with even the slightest crack you can hear it. It makes sense. I've never personally tried it on a knife blade, but it works on shotgun barrels. If there is even the slightest loose spot in the soldering of the rib or the connection of the barrels you get a dull thunk instead of a nice ring. If it works it could help you to spot a cracked blade before doing all that hand polishing work.
BTW, really looking forward to seeing you on the TV show!
I was already missing your knife videos Walter!
Nice as an aspiring blade smith I enjoy watching your videos
don't think I have ever clicked on a video so fast love your work Walter
Out-Fucking-Standing!!!Needs more!!!!
your a great knife maker
Love the little joke in the title. Great video too!
Oh how I've been waiting for an upload from you
8:34 Look Ma, no jig!
Hi Walter. Any suggestions to bevel grinding technique that will help avoid a thicker tip? I've been trying to remain conscious of the fact that the tip and plunge line will be thicker as you've described in other videos, but I still end up with a tip that's thicker than the rest of the bevel on most knives. Makes it a bit laborious to finish a knife, and nerve wracking because it's easy to botch my bevel when I'm trying to clean up the tip. If it matters, I use a piece of scrap steel anchored to the tool rest on my grinder so that I have a stable platform when grinding the bevel - wondering if I should start grinding free hand.
I watch this as my bar of San Mai is in front of me. I need another design on here
if you dunk them in vinegar overnight it will lift the scale off,but do it outside so it doesn't stink up your shop
Your transition music keeps making me think Ghostbusters are about to pop on the screen! Ha!
No one else picked up on this little hint in your video... But did my spider senses tell me that you were filming in New York for "Forged in Fire".... I'm a cop, I listen for hints.
Did you censor that name so that a curtain company (that shall not be named) would not try to claim copyright?
You are correct. Actually it's a trademark rather than a copyright issue... but whatevs, right? :)
Walter Sorrells It's dumb that they can do that to the word "Three Flat Things" in japanese...
You could've called it "sawn my" lol
kaizoebara Maybe he could have just made the entire title in japanese?
Yeah, why not. I can read Japanese.
三枚ダマスカス・ナイフを作る
Awesome informational educational video experience Y'alls
I noticed at about 6:00 you mention that you are going to grind the blade. Does this require more initial material or is the waste from forging out the blade similar?
Also A curiosity of mine, have you ever tried making something from all the scrap pieces that flake off? I've heard something about that in Japanese balcksmithing related to apprentices making their masterwork.
May I ask you, if you used flux for the damascus billet? You didn't mention it in the video.
I hope this is not too personal, but I have been wondering why you wear a wedding band on your right hand? Awesome videos, keep them coming! :-)
Is this 'S*n-mai' naming because of the Coldsteel patent?
Yes.
Nice
I noticed you're not using cutting oil when you drill your holes. Is it not necessary with carbide bits? I assume you're using carbide bits.
Cutting oil isn't necessary with any bit when drilling steel, good technique will largely prevent killing bits. Make sure that the chips are clearing from your holes and not packing up inside(not really a problem on blade thickness material, but this will cause the cutting edge of the bit to chip), make sure that you're not overheating the bit(this is the real killer), apply good pressure(not enough and you'll be generating a lot of heat without removing much material), and, in general, don't rush like everyone feels the need to do.
Ideally, you want to plunge the bit over and over, cutting a few seconds at a time before lifting back up, rather than going at it until you poke through the other side - this will clear the chips and keep the temperature in check. But, again, this isn't necessarily required for blade thickness steel that isn't hardened because it's just so thin, but would be a good idea if you're trying to drill a hole after heat treating(don't waste your time with anything other can carbide for hardened steel - HSS will NOT do it).
With that said, I always use cutting oil because I have it and it lets me be a little lazy/sloppy with technique(longer plunges) - but, make no mistake, cutting oil doesn't let you get away with too much, because, when you see smoke, you're burning off that oil which means you're overheating the bit. So, cutting oil or not, the sharpness & life of a bit is dependent on technique to prevent edge chipping & overheating.
And, just like a knife, a bit will get dull with use even with good technique. So, whenever a bit gets dull, stop using it and sharpen it(easily done on a bench grinder, look up tutorials here on YT), otherwise continued use will just overheat it and sharpening it won't save it at that point.
- Someone whose income has been more dependent on drilling holes in metal than I'd care to admit
Thanks a bunch! That was very informative.
Did you move away from using the sprayer and go back to the traditional bucket for cooling?
If I'm doing a bunch of grinding at a time, I'll use it, but it's very messy and takes a bit of set-up time...so it depends on the project.
I am a lawyer representing Cold Steel knives Ltd, I am instructed to hereby order a cease and desist notice, informing you of my intention to claim copyright infringement if this video isn't taken down in 24 hours ;)
Hi Walter. Whats the deal with the term Damascus, I was under the impression that the art of making Damascus steel was lost to mankind (with Dragons dying out and all)?
Absolutely gorgeous knife... shame about the first one. Wish I could afford your work.
It would be cool if he made Leon's knife from resident evil 4 or Chris's machete from resident evil 5
Wrong channel, mate, you want awe me.
what kind of grinder is that?
Walter I am interested in purchasing some 15n20 1084 billet in this style. Do you have a suggestion on where to get it?
look through his videos, has a video about different types of metals and a follow up video about material suppliers(namely for North America, though he includes some Aus suppliers as well that a viewer gave)
do you think you ill attend bladeshow 2017 in Atlanta Georgia.
is it somewhere video how to make a propane torch for furnace, becouse I wont to make one
Have you ever thought of making a straight razor?
can you tell me what the reason is to wrap the chain around your and anvil
Makes it quieter when hammering on it
If you fail to heat treat a knife (I'm using 1095 btw) can you retry or is my knife screwed. Thanks a lot :)
1095 is a very forgiving steel, so you should be OK to reheat it. The only issue you might run into is blade warpage if you give it a second go. Also, for a simple high carbon steel such as 1095, right before you quench the steel, check the blade with a magnet to be sure it does not stick. If it becomes non-magnetic, chances are that you'll get a decent heat treat without a bunch of expensive heat treating ovens.
+No.1 Prepper thank you for the advice
Glad to help. Hope your knife turns out good :)
What is Thatcher material flaking off when you use the press
Pretty sure it's millscale. It's just a type of oxide(like rust) only instead of being Fe2o3 like rust, it's fe3o4
It’s called scale. It’s the metal oxidizing and falling off.
Too bad Walter got eliminated on Forged in Fire. I would love to have seen what he could have brought to the finals. The man should be a judge on there. And his RUclips channel kicks the shit out of J Nelson's with his whopping 6 short clips from 6 and 12 years ago. Like i said this guy should be the judge
No flux?
That title! Hahaha
Am I the only one that heard "hWite hot" at around 2:50.
*propane intensifies*
Nope he said hwite
a stack of steal weights lets say 1 1b. you forge weld and it now has "scale". before you clean off the scale does it now weigh more than 1 lb. or less than 1 lb. you clean the scale off. is it back to 1 lb. or less than 1 lb. what is "scale "?
Scale is oxidized steel on the surface of your working piece. It's formation occurs during forging and heating. Hence, removing it is in fact removing steal from the original piece, and will reduce the weight, or as you said, be "less than 1 lb".
I don't have a ton of experience here and others could give a far better answer, but that should sum it up. I'm sure Google and the various blade forums have something to say about it as well.
Actually, before you clean the scale off (if you had all the scale formed and none fell off) it would weigh slightly more. 1 lb of steel will make, I think, 3 lbs of rust.
I take it the asterisk is in response to a certain industrial blade company's absurd 'cease and desist'? :-P
Fu*k cold steel
yep
Conley custom ironwork Fuck*
Change back to the old music the new stuff sounds like some death metal ghostbusters shit
I hate cold steel
1
suck
Am I the only one that heard "hWite hot" at around 2:50.
*propane intensifies*
I sell Damascus and Damascus accessories