Jake, great explanation. One simple way of looking at the need for dehumidification that you briefly touch on is that you need a cooling load for the air conditioner to be able to dehumidify; if you over size the air conditioner (for any specific outdoor condition) then the cooling load just isn't there and a separate piece of equipment is needed.
Whilst living in New England, Midatlantic and Midwest regions, we always had humidifiers and dehumidifiers in our multiple HVAC systems… strangely, these were seemingly not standard in the southeast and TX?
Great video. The only thing I might add are some comments about the need or lack there of depending on your region. Here in the Pacific Northwest nobody uses dehumidifiers because even the dog days of summer, humidity is fairly low.
As a ME, PE, you did an excellent job on this. If one wants an efficient home, hire an excellent ME to put these systems together and size them properly. Your 1st indication you have the wrong engineer is how large the main HVAC unit will be. Smaller is the correct direction.
A simple way to explain the difference between an a.c. and a dehumidifier is that an a.c. dumps the heat outside and a dehumidifier just dumps the heat back into the room. I plan on keeping things separate as Jake prefers on my next home. Mini-splits, ERV, and dehumidifier. The only ting that will have ductwork will be the ERV. I have found that a single dehumidifier in a back corner of the house has no problem keeping the humidity at 50% all over the house, and it is a 2700 sqft Florida home that is leaky as heck. I don't feel that ducting the humidifier around the gouse is necessary.
Can you please do a video on why you would or wouldn’t need an erv and a dehumidifier? So many people think that the erv will act do its job for dehumidification in home, but that isn’t necessarily true. So do you really need all three systems (ac until, erv, and dehumidifier)? What are the pros and cons of using the same duct work on the erv and dehumidifier?
Seems to me that piping the ERV's Fresh Air In into the fresh air intake of the dehumidifier while keeping the ERV's normal Stale Air Out and dehumidifier's internal air intake separate would be a good way to simplify the ducting a bit without causing the systems to interfere with each other. The ERV pulls air from normally humid locations, like the bathrooms and kitchen while the dehumidifier does its work on the rest of the household air and the relatively trivial amount of fresh air coming out of the ERV. I think you could even get away with just one or two common area intakes for the dehumidifier. Combining that with some form of mini-split cooling and radiant heat would simplify it much further still. Just the thoughts of an armchair layman, so please feel free to tell me this is dumb. If it is dumb, what am I missing?
@@av1204 Yep, saw that one a little while back but just watched it again to refresh my memory. My biggest concerns with his recommendation is that 1) He's placing the sensor between the ERV and the dehumidifier as though most of the air going through the dehumidifier is coming from the ERV, which it isn't, and 2) if the sensor is anywhere in those ducts it will be off because the cooling would be happening in the rooms and skewing the RH value. It might have to play catch up, but just placing the RH sensor in the biggest common area or in the interior intake plenum is probably the best option. It also shouldn't have to play catchup much since the ERV has the largest humidity sources virtually isolated and directly venting them outside.
@@chaseweeks2708 I am in georgia and do not use an ERV. I have this exact dehumidifier with a haven sensor + lockouts for under 40 degrees and over 95 degrees on fresh air intake. The fan on dehumidifier runs 24/7. When Haven calls for dehumidifier it kicks the dehumidifier on and truns my heatpump to dehumidifier mode. The Dehumidifier heats the air air up a bit and it combines with the super cold air from the dehumidifier mode. Seems to work pretty good we stay at around 45-50% humidity. The house is super super tight all ICF.
@@av1204 So, you are using the fresh air intake in the dehumidifier as your fresh air for your home? Aren't you pressurizing it? Also as an aside, I was under the impression that ICF's in Georgia were an issue due to not being able to get a termite Bond on a home with foam. Something to due with the inability to ensure that termite tubes aren't being built.
@@ericscott3997 Got home insurance and termite bond no issue. And yes I am purposely pressurizing. It is so low you wouldnt know unless you measure it. It also helps for when bath fan / stove fan is on. The reason we want to keep pressureization is radon. We have a full basement and are in a high radon area. We plumbed for radon mittigation but have active monitors and thus far the readings are negligible. I engineered the home with some help of friends and forums. Built entire thing myself. The blower door contractor that came out and tested said he had never seen a score so low. We didnt use any special windows or what not. Just icf from basement to roof and then 5 inches of closed from top of wall to peak. We did turn on the dehumidifier before drywalling and filled the place with fog to see if we could find any leaks. Only some around outlet boxes.
As some one who lives in the humid south, I find just the opposite on air conditioning. Twenty years ago the units didn’t stay on long at all and now well designed hvac runs 80-90% of the time.
That’s what I would have thought as well. Traditionally, HVAC equipment was oversized as a matter of course and fans operated as on/off (or two-speed at best). Today, the equipment is much more likely to be right sized for maximum efficiency and include variable speed fans. So, as you noted @moonshinewarrior, the equipment runs more often than not during peak cooling and/or heating season. That said, heating and cooling loads vary greatly over the course of a year in most US locations, so a dedicated ventilation system with ERV and dehumidification is a must for good indoor air quality in a high-performance home.
Yes, exactly. The longer run time takes out more humidity. Over sizing the unit cools fast, but doesn't remove as much humidity since A/C are better at cooling than dehumidifying.
I have recently been watching restorations in Europe, and I note that they bad-mouth US-type walls that use Portland cement mortar. They seem to use lime mortar for brick, stone, and what they call "render" and we call Portland cement stucco. They say walls need to "breathe" and also Portland cement mortar is too hard. Do you have any thoughts on this dichotomy of opinions on mortars and the sealing of a house?
As I watch this video I have a cheap AC/Dehum jerryrigged on my balcony to blow dehumidified air into the 50 year old appartment I currently rent. It's amazing how much better 10% less hum can feel.
When Jake said "trust me" he is correct. He did not mention the Psychrometric Chart but you can look that up if you are interested in more information.
It is challenging to get a dehumidifier integrated into an older home. I have a Split-Level, and I'm trying to bring in Make-up air, and add a Dehumidifier, finding space for the equipment and routing for the ductwork is a bear.
And let's not forget about the critical importance of low humidity of NTE 40% to prevent mold and mycotoxins. There is so much that is ignored by builders becaise laws tell them they can ignore it and so many people get terribly ill (organ damage and shutdown) and even die from it. Of coutse, the EPA or CDC or whoever, refuse to acknowledge any of it. Building science should be much better adhered to than laws ensure it.
@@crabkilla I disagree. How can you not pay for it when it's not offered, not discussed, not proposed, not educated about, not raised as an option. You can assume everyone knows all about it and we know what assume really means, yes? In my view there are many elements of home building that aren't discussed by builders in a proactive way. Builders decide what limits their risk, what they are comfortable with, what is profitable, and often, "this is how we've always done it". Or, "this is how my subs can get it done fast and move on to the next job". No offense intended.
@@beautifulgirl219 I was generalizing about homeowners and you are generalizing about builders. So that makes us both right. 🙂 There is obviously a market here because there would not be products otherwise. Talk to any "building science" builder that has built many spec homes and they will tell you that buyers only care about looks. People who will pay for custom-designed, built homes - that is a different story.
@@crabkilla Up to a point. But if I explain to a homebuyer that one house has cardboard where another has wood, even if they have to pay more, nobody knowingly chooses cardboard, in my experience, homes are just to expensive to knowingly choose that. Choices are based on how much you know, is my main assertion. Thanks for your response.
Most homeowner are not educate on a lot of stuff to maintain the house. I just recently found out this year that high humidity cause mold growth. Immediately went out to get a dehumidifier at Lowes. A lot of people doesnt know that they have to flush water heater every year, clean the gutter, tune up the AC, change the filter in washer, dish washer, microwave oven and etc.
Thanks, Jake. Great overview of dehumidification. One question: does it matter whether the ventilation air is delivered from above or below when ducted separately? I seem to always see it being delivered from the ceiling or high up in the wall, but it would be convenient to deliver at floor level in places where basements and crawl spaces are predominant. Thanks.
Jake, how much ducting do you need to run for a seperate Dehumidification system, & would you need to include an inline booster fan in order to provide enough air for even distribution?
There is not really a one size fits all and typically, you wouldn't need to add any inline boosters. In all honesty, boosters are junk. A probably sized duct system will do everything you need it to. Overall, it will be dependent on the overall space it's serving. You need to compare the airflow performance charts and static pressure requirements to effectively distribute airflow evenly throughout a given area.
Just had my 4th Santa Fe 70H dehumidifier installed in four years....HVAC installed via manufacturer's instructions...they basically only lasting a year or so. On last service call the HVAC technicians were on phone hold for over an hour waiting on Santa Fe techs to respond for troubleshooting only to tell them don't bother to try to fix just take it out and install a new one. When they work they work...just can't believe the product is not more reliable.
I think I’ve watched every Build video on Dehumidifiers and I’m still unconvinced. Can you do a blind test? Or AB test showing the energy savings of not running the AC? Everything online about dehum is hand wavy and shoulder months and just trust me. As a noob it’s just not convincing. Pardon my candor.
Blind test? Try living in the house during cooler rain seasons when the ac doesn't kick on cause the temp is fine, yet you feel uncomfortable because of all the humidity in the house. If that doesn't convince you that you need a dehumidifier, then nothing will.😂😂😂
I just have to add my two cents by saying the Santa Fe units from my experience are not of high quality and the life of some of these units are close to only two years. Plus, Santa Fe after calling them really don't sell parts but instead give you a discount on buying yet another unit. I would recommend using Aprilaire as the materials seem to be of much higher quality and they indeed sell parts for doing repair work. Plus they are made in Wisconsin and not shipped in from overseas. But again the quality of the copper and aluminum on these units just seem to be much better and at the same price point!
Seems like a dehumidifier is just an air conditioner unit that collects all the moisture in the unit versus having a separate fan coil outside to evaporate the moisture.
This year's problems will almost certainly be more difficult. Looking back, I realized that I was so preoccupied with my portfolio that I made bad financial mistakes throughout the previous year. I had to decide between boosting my investments and buying a house. After deciding to sell my investments, I learned that the home I had purchased needed more maintenance than I had anticipated. Trying to figure out how much longer I can tolerate this is becoming more difficult
To diversify your portfolio, invest in companies with observable cash flows. I've earned money in over 500 different markets in the previous 10 months since employing a planner to help me strengthen my portfolio at the end of 2023. If 2023 teaches us anything, it's that good fortune is temporary. Even in good times, we should put in more effort to prepare for the worst case scenario
In my opinion, we should be sizing systems to run 80% of the day again. It becomes complicated with manufacturers when they are trying to build a product for "everyone". Components, design, and the envelope have an equal part in engineering the size. It gets further complicated when you have big delta swings in your climate zones. This will be solved by storage, but that is a long way off. Until then... please please please always include a dehumidification component in your buildings.
Anyone have any idea of the wattage on a unit like this? It seems that all that energy would go back into the house as waste heat. I'd assume that increase in the cooling load negate any energy savings.
Not much real help here in how to select a system, how to tie it in, or how to evaluate needs in each climate zone. Kinda of like just very minimal basics here.
weird question but why can't you drink the water from a dehumidifier. I mean some of these things are rated to pull 10 gallons of water out of the air a day. If a homeowner wanted to be...self sustainable then why isn't is possible to utilize that water for potable water or at very least watering plants?
The water in the dehumidifier collects and concentrates a significant amount of VOCs, PFAS, and other toxic soluble gases out of your air. Please pour it down the drain and don't even let it splash on your skin.
@@joeyurban5169 if you don't me asking. Why would it have to be treated? Isn't the vapor just pulled from the atmosphere? I mean obviously you'd want to send it through a charcoal filter as you do most potable water, but besides that would there be any potential for other contaminates?
@roberttaylor9259 Treatment would really only be necessary if you intend to use the water as a potable source. However, it's not advisable for the same reasons you wouldn't consume water from the house's condensate line. There is still airbourne debris and particulate passing through the equipment that will accumulate. However, if you're using it for watering plants, there shouldn't be much of an issue. I've known two customers who chose to do that.
I don’t care what kind of dehumidifier you run or the efficiency ratings that are on it if it runs 24/7 your electric bill will go up $50-$100 a month depending on how much the compressor runs.
Perhaps That's more due to the inefficiency of the home being not as air tight allowing easier access for humidity to enter. All I know is, that if the humidity is lower, the cooler I feel/am. With lower humidity you don't have to lower the temperature on the AC to feel cooler.
I understand the principle behind these humidifier and air circulation units. What I don’t understand??? How can you justify the cost??? A home has to settle after being built. Five years after you find all the major flaws. Implementing these devices before the five years is a waste of time and money. You can retro fit the system or upgrade. Are you seriously going to take everything out your home and do a air blower sealant treatment every five years? Your home not only settles. It heats and cools. This will open gaps naturally. One infestation of any bug or rodent will cost you to do the process all over. I don’t see the point. They also are not great for fireplaces. I might be wrong. Are bodies need the work out of adapting to humidity and air borne germs. The Europeans had disease that native Americans could not live with. I also think that you need to be able to clean. Places you do not clean create super germs. Think of yeti tumbler. If you do not remove the rubber seal? The coffee and soda will stay under the seal after washing it.
Thank you Jake, for taking the time and making the effort to educate us; it is greatly appreciated.
I appreciate the video! It's always nice when I hear someone echoing what I've been preaching for so long!
Jake, great explanation. One simple way of looking at the need for dehumidification that you briefly touch on is that you need a cooling load for the air conditioner to be able to dehumidify; if you over size the air conditioner (for any specific outdoor condition) then the cooling load just isn't there and a separate piece of equipment is needed.
I really love this series. This sort of focus is really helpful. Keep up the good work.
Whilst living in New England, Midatlantic and Midwest regions, we always had humidifiers and dehumidifiers in our multiple HVAC systems… strangely, these were seemingly not standard in the southeast and TX?
Great video. The only thing I might add are some comments about the need or lack there of depending on your region. Here in the Pacific Northwest nobody uses dehumidifiers because even the dog days of summer, humidity is fairly low.
As a ME, PE, you did an excellent job on this. If one wants an efficient home, hire an excellent ME to put these systems together and size them properly. Your 1st indication you have the wrong engineer is how large the main HVAC unit will be. Smaller is the correct direction.
Lol I've been trying to find a ME for residential for weeks. No one in town does residential.
A simple way to explain the difference between an a.c. and a dehumidifier is that an a.c. dumps the heat outside and a dehumidifier just dumps the heat back into the room.
I plan on keeping things separate as Jake prefers on my next home. Mini-splits, ERV, and dehumidifier. The only ting that will have ductwork will be the ERV. I have found that a single dehumidifier in a back corner of the house has no problem keeping the humidity at 50% all over the house, and it is a 2700 sqft Florida home that is leaky as heck. I don't feel that ducting the humidifier around the gouse is necessary.
Corbett Lunsford has been explaining this for years. But Jake does one episode about dehumidifier and now he's a genius! Lol
I agree good video. I’d definitely do testing to share ducting in specific situations when possible and logical
Can you please do a video on why you would or wouldn’t need an erv and a dehumidifier? So many people think that the erv will act do its job for dehumidification in home, but that isn’t necessarily true. So do you really need all three systems (ac until, erv, and dehumidifier)? What are the pros and cons of using the same duct work on the erv and dehumidifier?
Seems to me that piping the ERV's Fresh Air In into the fresh air intake of the dehumidifier while keeping the ERV's normal Stale Air Out and dehumidifier's internal air intake separate would be a good way to simplify the ducting a bit without causing the systems to interfere with each other. The ERV pulls air from normally humid locations, like the bathrooms and kitchen while the dehumidifier does its work on the rest of the household air and the relatively trivial amount of fresh air coming out of the ERV. I think you could even get away with just one or two common area intakes for the dehumidifier. Combining that with some form of mini-split cooling and radiant heat would simplify it much further still. Just the thoughts of an armchair layman, so please feel free to tell me this is dumb. If it is dumb, what am I missing?
there is a good video on why not to do that somewhere. it is by Home Performance channel.
@@av1204 Yep, saw that one a little while back but just watched it again to refresh my memory. My biggest concerns with his recommendation is that 1) He's placing the sensor between the ERV and the dehumidifier as though most of the air going through the dehumidifier is coming from the ERV, which it isn't, and 2) if the sensor is anywhere in those ducts it will be off because the cooling would be happening in the rooms and skewing the RH value. It might have to play catch up, but just placing the RH sensor in the biggest common area or in the interior intake plenum is probably the best option. It also shouldn't have to play catchup much since the ERV has the largest humidity sources virtually isolated and directly venting them outside.
@@chaseweeks2708 I am in georgia and do not use an ERV. I have this exact dehumidifier with a haven sensor + lockouts for under 40 degrees and over 95 degrees on fresh air intake. The fan on dehumidifier runs 24/7. When Haven calls for dehumidifier it kicks the dehumidifier on and truns my heatpump to dehumidifier mode. The Dehumidifier heats the air air up a bit and it combines with the super cold air from the dehumidifier mode. Seems to work pretty good we stay at around 45-50% humidity.
The house is super super tight all ICF.
@@av1204 So, you are using the fresh air intake in the dehumidifier as your fresh air for your home? Aren't you pressurizing it? Also as an aside, I was under the impression that ICF's in Georgia were an issue due to not being able to get a termite Bond on a home with foam. Something to due with the inability to ensure that termite tubes aren't being built.
@@ericscott3997 Got home insurance and termite bond no issue. And yes I am purposely pressurizing. It is so low you wouldnt know unless you measure it. It also helps for when bath fan / stove fan is on. The reason we want to keep pressureization is radon. We have a full basement and are in a high radon area. We plumbed for radon mittigation but have active monitors and thus far the readings are negligible. I engineered the home with some help of friends and forums. Built entire thing myself. The blower door contractor that came out and tested said he had never seen a score so low. We didnt use any special windows or what not. Just icf from basement to roof and then 5 inches of closed from top of wall to peak. We did turn on the dehumidifier before drywalling and filled the place with fog to see if we could find any leaks. Only some around outlet boxes.
As some one who lives in the humid south, I find just the opposite on air conditioning. Twenty years ago the units didn’t stay on long at all and now well designed hvac runs 80-90% of the time.
That’s what I would have thought as well. Traditionally, HVAC equipment was oversized as a matter of course and fans operated as on/off (or two-speed at best). Today, the equipment is much more likely to be right sized for maximum efficiency and include variable speed fans. So, as you noted @moonshinewarrior, the equipment runs more often than not during peak cooling and/or heating season. That said, heating and cooling loads vary greatly over the course of a year in most US locations, so a dedicated ventilation system with ERV and dehumidification is a must for good indoor air quality in a high-performance home.
Yes, exactly. The longer run time takes out more humidity. Over sizing the unit cools fast, but doesn't remove as much humidity since A/C are better at cooling than dehumidifying.
I have recently been watching restorations in Europe, and I note that they bad-mouth US-type walls that use Portland cement mortar. They seem to use lime mortar for brick, stone, and what they call "render" and we call Portland cement stucco. They say walls need to "breathe" and also Portland cement mortar is too hard. Do you have any thoughts on this dichotomy of opinions on mortars and the sealing of a house?
As I watch this video I have a cheap AC/Dehum jerryrigged on my balcony to blow dehumidified air into the 50 year old appartment I currently rent.
It's amazing how much better 10% less hum can feel.
When Jake said "trust me" he is correct. He did not mention the Psychrometric Chart but you can look that up if you are interested in more information.
It is challenging to get a dehumidifier integrated into an older home. I have a Split-Level, and I'm trying to bring in Make-up air, and add a Dehumidifier, finding space for the equipment and routing for the ductwork is a bear.
First?? Well as an archivist I’m all for dehumidification in residential buildings (preferably at 40% rh)!!♥️♥️♥️
In other words, you're a hoarder?
Thank you.
And let's not forget about the critical importance of low humidity of NTE 40% to prevent mold and mycotoxins. There is so much that is ignored by builders becaise laws tell them they can ignore it and so many people get terribly ill (organ damage and shutdown) and even die from it. Of coutse, the EPA or CDC or whoever, refuse to acknowledge any of it.
Building science should be much better adhered to than laws ensure it.
It is ignored because homeowners will not pay for it. If they would, then builders would do it.
@@crabkilla I disagree. How can you not pay for it when it's not offered, not discussed, not proposed, not educated about, not raised as an option. You can assume everyone knows all about it and we know what assume really means, yes? In my view there are many elements of home building that aren't discussed by builders in a proactive way. Builders decide what limits their risk, what they are comfortable with, what is profitable, and often, "this is how we've always done it". Or, "this is how my subs can get it done fast and move on to the next job". No offense intended.
@@beautifulgirl219 I was generalizing about homeowners and you are generalizing about builders. So that makes us both right. 🙂
There is obviously a market here because there would not be products otherwise.
Talk to any "building science" builder that has built many spec homes and they will tell you that buyers only care about looks.
People who will pay for custom-designed, built homes - that is a different story.
@@crabkilla Up to a point. But if I explain to a homebuyer that one house has cardboard where another has wood, even if they have to pay more, nobody knowingly chooses cardboard, in my experience, homes are just to expensive to knowingly choose that. Choices are based on how much you know, is my main assertion. Thanks for your response.
Most homeowner are not educate on a lot of stuff to maintain the house. I just recently found out this year that high humidity cause mold growth. Immediately went out to get a dehumidifier at Lowes.
A lot of people doesnt know that they have to flush water heater every year, clean the gutter, tune up the AC, change the filter in washer, dish washer, microwave oven and etc.
Thanks, Jake. Great overview of dehumidification. One question: does it matter whether the ventilation air is delivered from above or below when ducted separately? I seem to always see it being delivered from the ceiling or high up in the wall, but it would be convenient to deliver at floor level in places where basements and crawl spaces are predominant. Thanks.
Excellent video. Very helpful and informative.
would love resources for adding dehumidifier to an old house.
Remember humid air rises too, this can affect where you place the unit and ducting.
Great video. Speaking of Louisiana. Isn’t it normal to have 60% indoor humidity with single stage unit, with no dehumidifier?
Would love to know your views on economizer vs AC vs HRV/ERV
Jake, how much ducting do you need to run for a seperate Dehumidification system, & would you need to include an inline booster fan in order to provide enough air for even distribution?
There is not really a one size fits all and typically, you wouldn't need to add any inline boosters. In all honesty, boosters are junk. A probably sized duct system will do everything you need it to. Overall, it will be dependent on the overall space it's serving. You need to compare the airflow performance charts and static pressure requirements to effectively distribute airflow evenly throughout a given area.
Just had my 4th Santa Fe 70H dehumidifier installed in four years....HVAC installed via manufacturer's instructions...they basically only lasting a year or so. On last service call the HVAC technicians were on phone hold for over an hour waiting on Santa Fe techs to respond for troubleshooting only to tell them don't bother to try to fix just take it out and install a new one. When they work they work...just can't believe the product is not more reliable.
I think I’ve watched every Build video on Dehumidifiers and I’m still unconvinced. Can you do a blind test? Or AB test showing the energy savings of not running the AC? Everything online about dehum is hand wavy and shoulder months and just trust me. As a noob it’s just not convincing.
Pardon my candor.
Blind test? Try living in the house during cooler rain seasons when the ac doesn't kick on cause the temp is fine, yet you feel uncomfortable because of all the humidity in the house. If that doesn't convince you that you need a dehumidifier, then nothing will.😂😂😂
I just have to add my two cents by saying the Santa Fe units from my experience are not of high quality and the life of some of these units are close to only two years. Plus, Santa Fe after calling them really don't sell parts but instead give you a discount on buying yet another unit. I would recommend using Aprilaire as the materials seem to be of much higher quality and they indeed sell parts for doing repair work. Plus they are made in Wisconsin and not shipped in from overseas. But again the quality of the copper and aluminum on these units just seem to be much better and at the same price point!
Seems like a dehumidifier is just an air conditioner unit that collects all the moisture in the unit versus having a separate fan coil outside to evaporate the moisture.
thats literally what it is. They make a version with the compressor on the exterior.
Exactly. Dehumidifier just dumps the heat back into the room.
This year's problems will almost certainly be more difficult. Looking back, I realized that I was so preoccupied with my portfolio that I made bad financial mistakes throughout the previous year. I had to decide between boosting my investments and buying a house. After deciding to sell my investments, I learned that the home I had purchased needed more maintenance than I had anticipated. Trying to figure out how much longer I can tolerate this is becoming more difficult
Take it easy, we've all made mistakes
To diversify your portfolio, invest in companies with observable cash flows. I've earned money in over 500 different markets in the previous 10 months since employing a planner to help me strengthen my portfolio at the end of 2023. If 2023 teaches us anything, it's that good fortune is temporary. Even in good times, we should put in more effort to prepare for the worst case scenario
How can one locate a reputable financial planner? I wouldn't mind searching the professional who served you.
Leah Foster Alderman.
You are certain to discover more if you search her up online
In my opinion, we should be sizing systems to run 80% of the day again. It becomes complicated with manufacturers when they are trying to build a product for "everyone". Components, design, and the envelope have an equal part in engineering the size. It gets further complicated when you have big delta swings in your climate zones. This will be solved by storage, but that is a long way off. Until then... please please please always include a dehumidification component in your buildings.
Waiting for an episode of Norwegian work gear/clothes
Anyone have any idea of the wattage on a unit like this? It seems that all that energy would go back into the house as waste heat. I'd assume that increase in the cooling load negate any energy savings.
Not much real help here in how to select a system, how to tie it in, or how to evaluate needs in each climate zone. Kinda of like just very minimal basics here.
So what? It’s intended to be an overview and accomplishes that very nicely.
The name of the series is “What should I use” not “Bisic overview for people with zero experience.”
Mmm, but don't dust mites breed at 50%RH and higher? You need to hold your RH reliably below 50% for a healthy home.
weird question but why can't you drink the water from a dehumidifier. I mean some of these things are rated to pull 10 gallons of water out of the air a day. If a homeowner wanted to be...self sustainable then why isn't is possible to utilize that water for potable water or at very least watering plants?
The water in the dehumidifier collects and concentrates a significant amount of VOCs, PFAS, and other toxic soluble gases out of your air. Please pour it down the drain and don't even let it splash on your skin.
You certainly could with the proper treatment.
@@joeyurban5169 if you don't me asking. Why would it have to be treated? Isn't the vapor just pulled from the atmosphere? I mean obviously you'd want to send it through a charcoal filter as you do most potable water, but besides that would there be any potential for other contaminates?
@roberttaylor9259 Treatment would really only be necessary if you intend to use the water as a potable source. However, it's not advisable for the same reasons you wouldn't consume water from the house's condensate line. There is still airbourne debris and particulate passing through the equipment that will accumulate. However, if you're using it for watering plants, there shouldn't be much of an issue. I've known two customers who chose to do that.
Please do not ever dump excess heat near a pantry! Pantries are for storing food - they're meant to be kept cool!
I don’t care what kind of dehumidifier you run or the efficiency ratings that are on it if it runs 24/7 your electric bill will go up $50-$100 a month depending on how much the compressor runs.
Perhaps That's more due to the inefficiency of the home being not as air tight allowing easier access for humidity to enter. All I know is, that if the humidity is lower, the cooler I feel/am. With lower humidity you don't have to lower the temperature on the AC to feel cooler.
Is santa fe paying all these youtubers to push their product. Seen a bunch over the past year and all are Santa fe
It’s like school. It’s so boring. Sorry, but less nerd, more explosions. 😅
I understand the principle behind these humidifier and air circulation units. What I don’t understand??? How can you justify the cost??? A home has to settle after being built. Five years after you find all the major flaws. Implementing these devices before the five years is a waste of time and money. You can retro fit the system or upgrade. Are you seriously going to take everything out your home and do a air blower sealant treatment every five years? Your home not only settles. It heats and cools. This will open gaps naturally. One infestation of any bug or rodent will cost you to do the process all over. I don’t see the point. They also are not great for fireplaces. I might be wrong. Are bodies need the work out of adapting to humidity and air borne germs. The Europeans had disease that native Americans could not live with. I also think that you need to be able to clean. Places you do not clean create super germs. Think of yeti tumbler. If you do not remove the rubber seal? The coffee and soda will stay under the seal after washing it.