I did exactly this earlier this evening and it worked perfectly. I had some trouble getting the spacing right on the spools, so in a dark bag, I pulled the backing paper off the spool, left the film in the Paterson tank sealed up, pulled the backing paper out and spaced the spool with it. I used aluminum tape to hold it in place while I spooled the negatives. Thanks so much for this video. The film I have appears to be 60ish years old based on the images that were on it when developed.
You have just saved my project 8 years after the release of the video xD I have a 100ft roll of 70mm ektarchrome I will shoot in an Arriflex 765 they are kind enough to give me and right until now 3am and searching the internet for the 100th time, I had no freaking idea how i would develope it. Thank you so much!
Extremely useful. A student just came up to me with an old box camera with a 116 roll in it. At first I thought it was 120, and I figured I had to, or she had to see-saw it in a tank. Thanks for sharing.
Me too...Thanks George! You've saved me time and effort not having to hack-saw, join and glue reels together! I have everything needed..you showed me how to do it!! Yipee!!
Hello, just to let you know this posting from several years ago was very helpful. I just used it to process a 1.6m (5 feet) length of Fuji CDU-II 70mm (double perforated) film, equivalent to 24 frames with a 6 x 6 cm SLR camera. After trying this with the ‘Universal’, I found it is safer to use the Paterson Multi Unit 3 tank with a thick rubber band wound tightly around the centre column immediately above the upper spiral part. That ensures that the spiral stays in place around the film. Thank you again for your video.
Someone on APUG posted me your link. I have 65mm film and tried to use an old bekelite tank, not good. I watched your solution for 70mm and it inspired me to make it work for 65mm film. i used a collar between the first reel on the sprocket and the second, that stops the 2nd reel from riding down. Then I put some masking tape around the top 1 inch of the spindle to get a tight fit for the 3rd reel. I can set the distance with a guage before I go in the dark to load it. I have the same paterson tank and the 3rd reel sits a little above the end of the spindle, once the lid is on its all held in place. As far as the dry run shows. I have vision 3 65mm film so I need the film to sit right and tight through the backing/remjet removal step. Many thanks for the inspiration and great you love the old 116's, I have a love for the old 616 art deco folders, same size film, but 70mm negative film is long gone so I got my hands on some 65mm, its a little wonkey when re rolled but it works.
Good video! Brilliant ideas for this. I need to see if it works for my 124 and 122 film. 116 film, though, was the 16th roll film format introduced. 101 was the first.
Thanks for the vid! I just bought the Paterson tank -- I am new to developing my own film -- and did not know how to adjust the reels for 120. I thought I was going to break them! But your video really helped.
Excellent! I've been looking for a 70mm reel, but also already have a Paterson tank, so that's that problem solved. Nearly bought the one from Sullins, but it's huge and I don't have a daylight tank big enough for it.
Hello, I have a Kodak No. 1-A Autographic Jr. that's been in my family at least 70 years (I have negatives that my mother kept from the camera). The last patent date inside on the back camera plate is July 1917. When I was a teen back in the 60s it was the first camera I ever took photographs with. I was hooked on photography since. 1967 was probably the last time film was run through it. At any rate, the bellows were replaced at the time and are in good shape today...no light leaks. I plan to shoot 120 film with it. It has a meniscus lens behind the ball bearing shutter which still operates well as far as I can tell. I have a couple questions, if I may... I can't seem to find the focal length of the meniscus lens it has. Any ideas what it might be? I'm assuming it's around 100+ mm. Also the owners manual says it can be converted to use the Rapid Rectilinear lens available at the time and I've read it could also use the Anastigmat lens as well. Do you have any idea how to use these other two lenses on that particular camera.
George, what length of film do you think you could get in one of these reels. I am using a Graflex Combat Graphic giant rangefinder camera, which takes the Kodak cassettes (winds from one cassette into another). These cassettes take 15 feet/4.6 metres of film for 50 exposures. I have sourced a Hewes 70mm x 5 metre reel but at 170mm diameter, cannot find a tank big enough with no central core to use it in. That reel also is not ratcheting like the Paterson reels, so you have to clip the film into the centre and hand load by squeezing gently, allowing the film to relax into the grooves in the reel. Thanks Wilson
Extremely timely as I've just bought a Mamiya 70mm back. I tested the split-spool arrangement you show here with a Jobo 25xx spiral and it also comes out to a nice 70mm separation, though I haven't tried it with actual film yet. Nice to know I can at least develop 220 lengths like this, if not 15 feet. PS there are a bunch of people on APUG real interested in 70mm right now, for whatever reason. You could perhaps make a good contribution to some of the recent threads there.
Hi kylehazachode, this is a brilliant idea! it solved all my problems with developing my 70mm film. I have to add, this system also works with the JOBO 2500 System from germany in exactly the same way. But not with the JOBO 1500 System. Thank you very, very much for posting this video!!!
Interesting video. Got a question for you. How do you pull those reels apart. I just got the patterson tank that you seem to be using today and I have been trying to follow you and the directions provided and I can't get the reels apart. Tnx
That's amazing! I know all about Kodak's different films. They discontinued that film in 1984! You didn't expose that film in the video did you? Because that is some rare film, and it would be amazing if you could actually process that at home! Did you get that film on Ebay? They could probably have it there if possible.
Not the oldest roll of film, that went to the original Kodak camera in 1888, but it was the first roll film that you could buy and load into a camera (original Kodak roll film came pre-loaded and you were to send the whole camera away to get it developed, and you would receive it with more film in it).
Where can one purchase 70mm unperforated B&W film? Is any sold in the USA? I have not found anyplace selling it in the US looking it up on the way. There is a lot of perfed on eBay though. Ortho 25 is sold on a. German site.
Hey. Fantastic. I have an old 1A that I'm dying to use. Thanks for the tip on the Patterson reels. However, where in H. can I find some unperf. B&W film? HELP!
hi, great camera you have there! this is a little off topic, but i just have a general developing question for you: Can I use the same developer with 35mm that I would for my 120 film (I do understand there are different developing times)? I am using ilfosol 3 and am planning to use these 2 35mm reels in my 120 tank with that developer. I'm doing this for the first time, thanks! I understand if you don't have the answers for me, thanks for your time.
Good idea, yet in the darkroom, using this method, have had no luck loading film due to the excessive coil of film. Will resort to dip and duck method.
With the mamiya back you can get more exposures if you cut two film leaders, one for the beginning and another for the end of the end of the film. With the 70mm back you expose a lot of film to light when loading the film onto the receiving canister. Even the last two frames are lost when the film pulls off of that metal clip on the first spool. Taping the film to old film leaders gets you more exposures for your buck. Thanks for the tip. Just joined APUG. Posting my findings right now
@kylehazachode Tnx so much. I finally got it working by holding the wide end in my left hand and twisting clockwise with the right.....Tnx again for your video.
Yes. The developing time would stay the same though (unless you're using the same developer for both films). Just because the film is wider doesn't mean the developing time changes.
it should. you just need an extra inch or so inside the tank. a larger tank will alleviate that problem. Also, there are still some 90mm plastic developing reels available. A quick google search will show you a few medical companies (you have to request a quote though).
I have a Kodak A-116 camera, but I've been having difficulties finding 116 film. Is it possible to use 70mm perforated film in this camera or would I be wasting my money?
That's correct. Film has to be loaded on a reel in complete darkness. You can't even use a yellow/red safelight. Ortho films can be used in a safe light environment
You can use perforated film but you need to find a roll of 116 film so you can reuse the paper backing. I prefer to use unperforated 70mm film so I can get the biggest negative possible
Just grip the reel with both hands and untwist (i believe counter-clockwise) as if you were adjusting the height from 35mm to 120. If you keep pulling past the 120 mark, it should come apart. You can see how I do it at the 2:40 mark in the video. I started to tighten it, then quickly realized it was the wrong direction. Then did it the opposite direction and felt the reel go into "adjust mode". Then I just pulled the reel apart.
You know you could try making some autographic film using 70mm film and a 116 paper back with some of those scratch off stickers for the codes on gift cards and such Use a empty 116 back and trace out the autographic location for each frame then carefully cut out each section with a razor, after which attach the scratch off tape and load the film the tape should be dark enough to block the light and should prove little resistance to the code scratcher tape and there you have it 116 autographic film back from the dead
No 15ft long film will fit a paterson spiral. Even the polyester thin based Ilford 72 frame HP5 was only atount 10 foot long and needed a special stainless steel spiral and loader.
Ah yes, the Paterson Major tanks. They're hard to come by for cheap on ebay (well for US residents). I do see a lot of UK sellers for Paterson Major tanks, but the shipping alone isn't worth it for me. Also, if someone could correct me if I'm wrong but; the old Major reels are too big for today's Paterson tanks, and the center hole is too small :( I really wouldn't pay more than $20 for a Major tank and reel
First make sure there are no light leaks. The one in the this video has hundreds of microscopic holes. I saw the major light leaks when I shined a flash light in it. Film? There's a seller on ebay who is selling Kodak B&W 70mm film for way too much; some people actually paid the $300 price tag. I got lucky and found 12 rolls of frozen 116 film from the 50s. But Ive been stocking up on Kodak Portra Unperforated 70mm film for the past couple years. My next video will show off the Zeiss Ikonta D
Noooooo! When it comes time to hang up the film to dry do NOT pull the top reel off. You saw what happens - the film hits itself! That means when it is wet you WILL scratch it. Instead, dip the film into your final PhotoFlo rinse. Then clip a wooden spring-powered clothes pin onto the end of the film. Next, gently pull the film and rotate the reels. The film will slide right off. Hang on a second wooden clothes pin until dry.
Patterson made tanks and reels in the late 1940's and early 1950's that went up to 116 film size. Not too different than what you are using in the video.
Thanks George! You've saved me time and effort not having to hack-saw, join and glue reels together!
I did exactly this earlier this evening and it worked perfectly. I had some trouble getting the spacing right on the spools, so in a dark bag, I pulled the backing paper off the spool, left the film in the Paterson tank sealed up, pulled the backing paper out and spaced the spool with it. I used aluminum tape to hold it in place while I spooled the negatives.
Thanks so much for this video. The film I have appears to be 60ish years old based on the images that were on it when developed.
You have just saved my project 8 years after the release of the video xD I have a 100ft roll of 70mm ektarchrome I will shoot in an Arriflex 765 they are kind enough to give me and right until now 3am and searching the internet for the 100th time, I had no freaking idea how i would develope it. Thank you so much!
Extremely useful. A student just came up to me with an old box camera with a 116 roll in it. At first I thought it was 120, and I figured I had to, or she had to see-saw it in a tank. Thanks for sharing.
Me too...Thanks George! You've saved me time and effort not having to hack-saw, join and glue reels together! I have everything needed..you showed me how to do it!! Yipee!!
Hello, just to let you know this posting from several years ago was very helpful. I just used it to process a 1.6m (5 feet) length of Fuji CDU-II 70mm (double perforated) film, equivalent to 24 frames with a 6 x 6 cm SLR camera. After trying this with the ‘Universal’, I found it is safer to use the Paterson Multi Unit 3 tank with a thick rubber band wound tightly around the centre column immediately above the upper spiral part. That ensures that the spiral stays in place around the film. Thank you again for your video.
Someone on APUG posted me your link. I have 65mm film and tried to use an old bekelite tank, not good. I watched your solution for 70mm and it inspired me to make it work for 65mm film. i used a collar between the first reel on the sprocket and the second, that stops the 2nd reel from riding down. Then I put some masking tape around the top 1 inch of the spindle to get a tight fit for the 3rd reel. I can set the distance with a guage before I go in the dark to load it. I have the same paterson tank and the 3rd reel sits a little above the end of the spindle, once the lid is on its all held in place. As far as the dry run shows. I have vision 3 65mm film so I need the film to sit right and tight through the backing/remjet removal step. Many thanks for the inspiration and great you love the old 116's, I have a love for the old 616 art deco folders, same size film, but 70mm negative film is long gone so I got my hands on some 65mm, its a little wonkey when re rolled but it works.
Just brilliant. I actually took a 120 stainless reel, cut it and soldered in stainless tubing to make a 70MM reel.
Good video! Brilliant ideas for this. I need to see if it works for my 124 and 122 film. 116 film, though, was the 16th roll film format introduced. 101 was the first.
Know that has been awhile but did you see if it works with 124 and 122?
@@WilliamRConley I don't think I ever got my hands on a Patterson reel large enough.
Thank you for making and posting this!
Thanks for the vid! I just bought the Paterson tank -- I am new to developing my own film -- and did not know how to adjust the reels for 120. I thought I was going to break them! But your video really helped.
I'll try this out with my Jobo 2505 reels when my 70mm film arrives.
wow, that probably took a while. At least now you have a dedicated 70mm reel
Brilliant. I will be using this tomorrow on an old roll of Verichrome Pan in Caffenol.
Very useful video. Thanks
I've been developing 116 film caffenol. This method is working perfectly every time!
Excellent! I've been looking for a 70mm reel, but also already have a Paterson tank, so that's that problem solved.
Nearly bought the one from Sullins, but it's huge and I don't have a daylight tank big enough for it.
Hello, I have a Kodak No. 1-A Autographic Jr. that's been in my family at least 70 years (I have negatives that my mother kept from the camera). The last patent date inside on the back camera plate is July 1917. When I was a teen back in the 60s it was the first camera I ever took photographs with. I was hooked on photography since. 1967 was probably the last time film was run through it. At any rate, the bellows were replaced at the time and are in good shape today...no light leaks. I plan to shoot 120 film with it.
It has a meniscus lens behind the ball bearing shutter which still operates well as far as I can tell. I have a couple questions, if I may...
I can't seem to find the focal length of the meniscus lens it has. Any ideas what it might be? I'm assuming it's around 100+ mm.
Also the owners manual says it can be converted to use the Rapid Rectilinear lens available at the time and I've read it could also use the Anastigmat lens as well. Do you have any idea how to use these other two lenses on that particular camera.
Thanks for watchin!
George, what length of film do you think you could get in one of these reels. I am using a Graflex Combat Graphic giant rangefinder camera, which takes the Kodak cassettes (winds from one cassette into another). These cassettes take 15 feet/4.6 metres of film for 50 exposures. I have sourced a Hewes 70mm x 5 metre reel but at 170mm diameter, cannot find a tank big enough with no central core to use it in. That reel also is not ratcheting like the Paterson reels, so you have to clip the film into the centre and hand load by squeezing gently, allowing the film to relax into the grooves in the reel. Thanks Wilson
Extremely timely as I've just bought a Mamiya 70mm back. I tested the split-spool arrangement you show here with a Jobo 25xx spiral and it also comes out to a nice 70mm separation, though I haven't tried it with actual film yet.
Nice to know I can at least develop 220 lengths like this, if not 15 feet.
PS there are a bunch of people on APUG real interested in 70mm right now, for whatever reason. You could perhaps make a good contribution to some of the recent threads there.
Hi kylehazachode, this is a brilliant idea! it solved all my problems with developing my 70mm film. I have to add, this system also works with the JOBO 2500 System from germany in exactly the same way. But not with the JOBO 1500 System. Thank you very, very much for posting this video!!!
Interesting video. Got a question for you. How do you pull those reels apart. I just got the patterson tank that you seem to be using today and I have been trying to follow you and the directions provided and I can't get the reels apart. Tnx
That's amazing! I know all about Kodak's different films. They discontinued that film in 1984! You didn't expose that film in the video did you? Because that is some rare film, and it would be amazing if you could actually process that at home! Did you get that film on Ebay? They could probably have it there if possible.
Not the oldest roll of film, that went to the original Kodak camera in 1888, but it was the first roll film that you could buy and load into a camera (original Kodak roll film came pre-loaded and you were to send the whole camera away to get it developed, and you would receive it with more film in it).
Okay cool. I will keep that in mind. Thanks.
Thanks for video! Helpful. How do you guys manage with 15 feet films? Do you cut them in 3 pieces? That will destroy 2 frames, but maybe its worth it.
Where can one purchase 70mm unperforated B&W film? Is any sold in the USA? I have not found anyplace selling it in the US looking it up on the way. There is a lot of perfed on eBay though. Ortho 25 is sold on a. German site.
Hey. Fantastic. I have an old 1A that I'm dying to use. Thanks for the tip on the Patterson reels. However, where in H. can I find some unperf. B&W film?
HELP!
hi, great camera you have there! this is a little off topic, but i just have a general developing question for you: Can I use the same developer with 35mm that I would for my 120 film (I do understand there are different developing times)? I am using ilfosol 3 and am planning to use these 2 35mm reels in my 120 tank with that developer. I'm doing this for the first time, thanks! I understand if you don't have the answers for me, thanks for your time.
no prob. I'm working on more vids on different ways to use the paterson tank and reel system
Good idea, yet in the darkroom, using this method, have had no luck loading film due to the excessive coil of film. Will resort to dip and duck method.
With the mamiya back you can get more exposures if you cut two film leaders, one for the beginning and another for the end of the end of the film.
With the 70mm back you expose a lot of film to light when loading the film onto the receiving canister. Even the last two frames are lost when the film pulls off of that metal clip on the first spool.
Taping the film to old film leaders gets you more exposures for your buck.
Thanks for the tip. Just joined APUG. Posting my findings right now
@kylehazachode Tnx so much. I finally got it working by holding the wide end in my left hand and twisting clockwise with the right.....Tnx again for your video.
Yes. The developing time would stay the same though (unless you're using the same developer for both films). Just because the film is wider doesn't mean the developing time changes.
Great, I have been doing exactly this and was considering making a youtube movie about it.
it should. you just need an extra inch or so inside the tank. a larger tank will alleviate that problem. Also, there are still some 90mm plastic developing reels available. A quick google search will show you a few medical companies (you have to request a quote though).
I have a Kodak A-116 camera, but I've been having difficulties finding 116 film. Is it possible to use 70mm perforated film in this camera or would I be wasting my money?
That's correct. Film has to be loaded on a reel in complete darkness. You can't even use a yellow/red safelight. Ortho films can be used in a safe light environment
You can use perforated film but you need to find a roll of 116 film so you can reuse the paper backing. I prefer to use unperforated 70mm film so I can get the biggest negative possible
I found mine on ebay. Frozen since the 1960s.
You can buy expired spools and respool it with unperforated 70mm film
al the film loading is done in a dark room/bag right?
Just grip the reel with both hands and untwist (i believe counter-clockwise) as if you were adjusting the height from 35mm to 120. If you keep pulling past the 120 mark, it should come apart.
You can see how I do it at the 2:40 mark in the video. I started to tighten it, then quickly realized it was the wrong direction. Then did it the opposite direction and felt the reel go into "adjust mode". Then I just pulled the reel apart.
Sir , can i load 120mm film into 116 mm camera ??
Anybody know how much developer to pour in?
You know you could try making some autographic film using 70mm film and a 116 paper back with some of those scratch off stickers for the codes on gift cards and such
Use a empty 116 back and trace out the autographic location for each frame then carefully cut out each section with a razor, after which attach the scratch off tape and load the film the tape should be dark enough to block the light and should prove little resistance to the code scratcher tape and there you have it 116 autographic film back from the dead
did you say t he 15ft 70mm can or cannot be used on this modified reel?
No 15ft long film will fit a paterson spiral. Even the polyester thin based Ilford 72 frame HP5 was only atount 10 foot long and needed a special stainless steel spiral and loader.
Right. Only 6 fee will fit -- not the 15' mentioned in the videeo.
@@SuperAllanjames
Ah yes, the Paterson Major tanks. They're hard to come by for cheap on ebay (well for US residents). I do see a lot of UK sellers for Paterson Major tanks, but the shipping alone isn't worth it for me.
Also, if someone could correct me if I'm wrong but; the old Major reels are too big for today's Paterson tanks, and the center hole is too small :(
I really wouldn't pay more than $20 for a Major tank and reel
Where can I buy 116 film?!
First make sure there are no light leaks. The one in the this video has hundreds of microscopic holes. I saw the major light leaks when I shined a flash light in it.
Film? There's a seller on ebay who is selling Kodak B&W 70mm film for way too much; some people actually paid the $300 price tag. I got lucky and found 12 rolls of frozen 116 film from the 50s. But Ive been stocking up on Kodak Portra Unperforated 70mm film for the past couple years.
My next video will show off the Zeiss Ikonta D
Noooooo! When it comes time to hang up the film to dry do NOT pull the top reel off. You saw what happens - the film hits itself! That means when it is wet you WILL scratch it.
Instead, dip the film into your final PhotoFlo rinse. Then clip a wooden spring-powered clothes pin onto the end of the film. Next, gently pull the film and rotate the reels. The film will slide right off. Hang on a second wooden clothes pin until dry.
Patterson made tanks and reels in the late 1940's and early 1950's that went up to 116 film size. Not too different than what you are using in the video.
really really really nervous guy unable to explain how to make 116 film from 70mm.
blabla blaa from a to E to C to S nothing but confusive.
very confusive. learn to teach!