WORKING farm kitchen so looking at Valspar for durability. “contractor’s oak” cabinets. wondering if i wire brushed (to raise grain even more), degloss, paint (med.gray) could i glaze/gel stain/ceruse/lime to show grain? on top of the new formula or would it not work? thank you for your time
I recently used these products and techniques to redo my bathroom vanity. I do have a questigon for you. I have a hall closet that needs painting, my shelves are made of particleboard that have old vinyl lining that the previous owners painted over. When I go to pull it up, the particleboard starts coming up with it. Any suggestions on how to remedy this situation?
5:11 I painted my cabinets about 3-4 years ago with the old formula and I have a few areas that are back down to the wood, I cleaned and degreased before painting. I want to stick with the color I have, I need to do a touch up but my paint is old and when I did it in a spot it had a flat appearance. Will i need to sand down or can I just paint over the existing paint with the new formula? Thanks in advance
So I recently used this paint, but they sold me the flat version. It feels very chalky and rough. Is there anything I can apply to the top of the desk to get rid of that feeling?
Can I glaze over this new paint. My cabinets are currently painted in the old furniture Valspar formula . It has a matte finish and the grain is still raised. I wanted to change the color and glaze over to bring out a little of the wood grain. Does the new formula get rid of the grain appearance?
Hi, Debra! When you change colors, buy the semi-gloss sheen for durability and since you are glazing as well so it can be manipulated. You will need to polyurethane over the top of the glaze on cabinets to protect it. No paint will remove the wood grain texture. Grain has to be filled. Hope that helps!
@@passion.project I just used 3 coats of a dark color of the new formula of Valspar C+F paint in Satin. It’s very dull- almost no sheen at all and I don’t like it. (It would be great for a chalkboard.) Should I buy semi-gloss C+F paint to use over the satin to get a sheen? Or apply a water-based top coat?
I replied from my personal account and just realized that! I used to work at Valspar and don’t recommend a top coat unless it’s a heavy use item like a kitchen table. You can go up in sheen over the top.of the satin in C+F. I think the satin sheen in the new formula is way to rough like chalk paint! It’s holding up well though on some cabinets I painted. Best bet going forward is semi-gloss which is what I used on this dresser.
@@porchdaydreamer that’s what I’m going to do. I already bought the semi-gloss. The difference in sheen between satin and semi gloss in this paint is mind-blowing! The satin looks like something between flat and eggshell! I think I liked the old formula of Valspar cabinet paint better. I don’t mind waiting longer to add another coat.
I personally thought this was the worse paint I have ever used. I used this on the insides of my cupboards, only 2 shelves in, I closed the can and rushed right over to Benjamin Moore and purchased my paint there. 2 coats of the valspar, still needing at least 2 more, was not my idea of a good paint. 1 coat of benjamin more paint, is all it needed. So when people think the cost is too high, how much paint are you going to need of the other, and the most important, how much is your time worth, to doing 4 coats, versus 1 coat of the other. Hands down, worse product for cabinets.
After using this paint old and new formula on countless projects, I've never had the issues you describe on light or dark colors. Sorry you weren't happy. Ben Moore makes great products too!
WORKING farm kitchen so looking at Valspar for durability. “contractor’s oak” cabinets. wondering if i wire brushed (to raise grain even more), degloss, paint (med.gray) could i glaze/gel stain/ceruse/lime to show grain? on top of the new formula or would it not work? thank you for your time
I recently used these products and techniques to redo my bathroom vanity. I do have a questigon for you. I have a hall closet that needs
painting, my shelves are made of particleboard that have old vinyl lining that the previous owners painted over. When I go to pull it up, the particleboard starts coming up with it. Any suggestions on how to remedy this situation?
Is it satin or semi gloss
5:11 I painted my cabinets about 3-4 years ago with the old formula and I have a few areas that are back down to the wood, I cleaned and degreased before painting. I want to stick with the color I have, I need to do a touch up but my paint is old and when I did it in a spot it had a flat appearance. Will i need to sand down or can I just paint over the existing paint with the new formula?
Thanks in advance
you should prie for a long lasting cabinet durability
Is the new formula still low VOC?
It is!
So I recently used this paint, but they sold me the flat version. It feels very chalky and rough. Is there anything I can apply to the top of the desk to get rid of that feeling?
Yes! You can clear coat with a water based polyurethane in a higher sheen.
Can I glaze over this new paint. My cabinets are currently painted in the old furniture Valspar formula . It has a matte finish and the grain is still raised. I wanted to change the color and glaze over to bring out a little of the wood grain. Does the new formula get rid of the grain appearance?
Hi, Debra! When you change colors, buy the semi-gloss sheen for durability and since you are glazing as well so it can be manipulated. You will need to polyurethane over the top of the glaze on cabinets to protect it. No paint will remove the wood grain texture. Grain has to be filled. Hope that helps!
Valspar people do not recommended adding any kind of top coat to this paint
@@passion.project I just used 3 coats of a dark color of the new formula of Valspar C+F paint in Satin. It’s very dull- almost no sheen at all and I don’t like it. (It would be great for a chalkboard.) Should I buy semi-gloss C+F paint to use over the satin to get a sheen? Or apply a water-based top coat?
I replied from my personal account and just realized that! I used to work at Valspar and don’t recommend a top coat unless it’s a heavy use item like a kitchen table. You can go up in sheen over the top.of the satin in C+F. I think the satin sheen in the new formula is way to rough like chalk paint! It’s holding up well though on some cabinets I painted. Best bet going forward is semi-gloss which is what I used on this dresser.
@@porchdaydreamer that’s what I’m going to do. I already bought the semi-gloss. The difference in sheen between satin and semi gloss in this paint is mind-blowing! The satin looks like something between flat and eggshell! I think I liked the old formula of Valspar cabinet paint better. I don’t mind waiting longer to add another coat.
I personally thought this was the worse paint I have ever used. I used this on the insides of my cupboards, only 2 shelves in, I closed the can and rushed right over to Benjamin Moore and purchased my paint there. 2 coats of the valspar, still needing at least 2 more, was not my idea of a good paint. 1 coat of benjamin more paint, is all it needed. So when people think the cost is too high, how much paint are you going to need of the other, and the most important, how much is your time worth, to doing 4 coats, versus 1 coat of the other. Hands down, worse product for cabinets.
After using this paint old and new formula on countless projects, I've never had the issues you describe on light or dark colors. Sorry you weren't happy. Ben Moore makes great products too!
Is it satin or semi gloss